Help with winterizing ...

[LIW]

we have a '24 Roo 183 and i've attached a picture of the back of the camper where there is an inlet for winterizing. I've never done winterizing this way before and was looking for some assistance (directions) for what i need to do to get the winterizer in the lines? I've always connected directly to the water pump with a hose and winterizer beside me so i appreciate any help available.....

Picture of the connection is attached....

[glen1971]

Judging by the sticker, I'd start by locating the pump. There must be valve on it that selects where to draw from. Then have a short hose connected to the antifreeze inlet and into a jug of RV antifreeze. But that's just a guess.

[CHICKDOE]

from the wording on the sticker it sounds like there are two valves that control where the pump draws from. there must be a tee in the water pump input hose. one part of the tee goes to the fresh water tank and the other goes to the winterizing inlet. close the valve that goes to the fresh water tank and open the valve that goes to the winterizing inlet. hook up a short hose from a jug of antifreeze to the winterizing inlet port and turn the water pump on. it will draw antifreeze from the jug.

[Rhumblefish]

Winterizer inlet is for a short length of hose to terminate in your antifreeze jug (personally, I like to slice off the top of the antifreeze jug so I can use the 10' length of hose without cutting off the hose end). FWIW, Walmart is my go-to for the -100 stuff.

Inside, you'll need to stick your head in to the rear cargo hatch of the 183 and look to your right. That panel (should be a "water pump" sticker on it) is held in by a couple of screws through cleats (the panel mod is great for this, btw). Behind the panel is your water pump, water filter (if equipped), as well as the all important antifreeze bypass valve. Flip that valve and the pump will draw from the anti-freeze intake instead of the fresh water tank.

Note that the antifreeze inlet valve is really a two-position valve with a 90° throw (the handle indicates which direction the water is flowing). At this T juncture, the source is either (1) the freshwater tank or (2) the antifreeze Inlet; there is no other position. So long as you were on freshwater and you turn it 90°, you are now pulling from the antifreeze inlet (and you have protected your freshwater tank from getting any antifreeze in it).

You know what to do from there!

Just my .02. Hope this helps.

[Rhumblefish]

And, just in case, here's a quick winterizing process using the Antifreeze method (not blow out, as you are in PA) This list was adopted from the E-Pro guide and written for your Roo.

1. Level the RV.

2. Drain the fresh water tank and all waste water holding tanks.

Important: if equipped with a Water Miser system in your shower, make sure to open the shower valves (like you were taking a shower), and then engage the Water Mizer bypass (this will let air into the system and will let water free fall down into your fresh water tank. After a minute, close your shower valves and disengage the Water Mizer.

3. Turn OFF the water heater at the water heater switch panel and at the power center breaker (if applicable) and allow water in the water heater to cool down to room temperature.
Never put non-toxic RV antifreeze into your water heater.

a. Turn water heater bypass valve to BYPASS position (for your 2024, that's the two valves behind the water heater, turn them 90°*so that the handles point in line with the red and blue supply lines. Water will flow from the blue line, NOW INTO THE WHITE BYPASS LINE, then into the red line to circulate back out to the camper.

b. Relieve the pressure on the water heater by opening the HOT water side of your kitchen faucet until the water runs out.

c. Drain water heater by removing the water heater drain plug/anode rod. Store the anode rod for the winter (Yes, I leave my hot water heater anode out and the HWH open).

d. Opening the TPR valve at the top of the hot water heater can help drain the hot water heater. Opening a hot water tap inside the coach can also do that.

4. OPEN both low-point drains to allow ALL the on-board water (and water in the system) to run-out of the system. RECAP your low-point drains.

5. Shut OFF the water supply line to the refrigerator’s water/ice maker, dishwasher and clothes washer, if equipped. (YOUR ROO DOESN'T HAVE THESE). Follow the winterization procedures for these appliances provided within their respective owner’s manuals.

6. If equipped with a water filter system (they were starting to NOT put filters/canisters in the 24 Roos), make sure the filter cartridge is removed and then re-install the canister. I like to get one season out of my filter, and then replace in the spring, but they are good for 10,000 gallons. Decide if you want to retain your filter or replace. If you retain, you will either need to let it dry (leave it out), or put it in a freezer for the winter. (I used to freeze, but now leave mine out, along with the HWH anode rod).

7. Time to apply non-toxic RV antifreeze to coach via the anti-freeze/winterization port inlet to the water pump:

a. connect a hose to the winterization port. (I using like the short 10' run of white hose that most dealers provide. I also cut the top off the antifreeze jug for easy access).

b. turn winterization valve behind the panel to winterization mode (90°*throw) and put the winterization hose into a bottle of non-toxic RV antifreeze (again, the -100° stuff from walmart is my go-to).

c. Turn the water pump switch ON and open the cold water side of all interior and exterior faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets OPEN until the antifreeze flows out of the faucets, then CLOSE.
Repeat for the hot water side. (Personally speaking, I like to open the furthest faucet fixture (likely your kitchen sink) and let antifreeze get supplied to that. Then I work my way backwards to the pump.) Do not forget the shower or the outdoor shower, these both also needs winterization.

Important: DO NOT run antifreeze through the Water Miser shower saver line. This will (accidentally) introduce antifreeze to your fresh water tank, which you do not want to do. You have effectively drained the Water Mizer in step 2, so should not have any water in it.

d. Open the toilet valve (flushing) until two cups of antifreeze are moved into the the bowl and gone down into the black tank. Then let the toilet waste valve close and allow a half cup of antifreeze to accumulate in the bowl. If equipped, operate toilet sprayer until antifreeze is observed (Note: this is NOT a standard feature on your Roo).

e. When antifreeze is fully added, turn the water pump switch OFF.

8. Pour approximately one cup of non-toxic RV antifreeze down each drain for the galley sink, lavatory sink, and shower. This fills the drain trap pipes to prevent holding tank odors from entering the RV during storage, and lets any overflow drip down into your gray tank to protect it and the graywater waste valve.

9. You're done! Clean up, put your gear away, wash your hands and crack a beer. Make sure you know where your water filter (if saving) and the HWH anode rod are going to be sleeping for the winter (handy tip: pitch your water filter if it's been a season and start fresh in the spring. anode rod can lay sideways in the outside of the Hot Water Heater).

Just my $0.02. Hope this helps!

[SailorSam20500]

For the most part, I agree with Rhumblefish's post.
On my rig, there is a valve on the intake side of the water pump, switching changes the source from the water tank to the anti-freeze port. I switch it back to water tank when I finish winterizing. If you forget, and try to get water from the tank, you get to whack your forehead and say "DOH"....
To aid draining water from the plumbing, I connect an air compressor to all my water intake ports. Keeping the pressure below about 50 PSI with at least one fixture open, I push most of the water out, I drain first thru the low point drains then follow up on the sinks, toilet, etc. I also run some air thru the city water intake and the black tank flush intake...

I made a short hose that I can connect to my plumbing drain ports. Using an air compressor, I connect the hose and put the end into an empty anti-freeze jug and pump the AF back out. I do hot and cold separately. Once you have run AF thru the lines and the various sink and other valves, there is no benefit to leaving the AF in the pipes. Some folks claim they can taste the AF the next season until enough water has gone thru the system to reduce the taste.... And the AF can be reused, or dumped into your drains as was noted in Rhumblefish's post.
I think it is best to reinstall the anode after the WH has drained. Less to do in the spring and it keeps critters and bugs from using the WH as a winter residence.

[Rhumblefish]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

For the most part, I agree with Rhumblefish's post.

Yay! Good comments! (and consensus)

It's important to remember that each owner needs to think about the process as it applies to THEM and THEIR conditions and how THEY want to do things (most appropriately). Different climates, different practices, different needs, different water quality - it all plays into this.

We're in the flyoverstates and occasionally get some REALLY hard freezes. It's fairly rare that we'll have the opportunity to camp all year round, so we also pretty much shut the camper entirely down for the winter. FOR ME, this means (1) antifreeze, that (2) I will leave in the system, (3) for most of teh winter/off season. YOUR MILEAGE MAY - and likely will - vary.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

On my rig, there is a valve on the intake side of the water pump, switching changes the source from the water tank to the anti-freeze port. I switch it back to water tank when I finish winterizing. If you forget, and try to get water from the tank, you get to whack your forehead and say "DOH"....

Yeah, same on our Roo's. Decent idea to change the antifreeze port, such that you don't have a brain fart when de-winterizing. I actually leave my antifreeze valve pointed to the port *on purpose* as a reminder that I am fully winterized (as it's "pointing" to the last source that fed the system). Since my Roo has the water filter canister right next to the antifreeze input valve, I'm in that compartment anyway com the spring... so it's no big deal to switch back when I'm ready to draw from the fresh tank come the start of camping season.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

To aid draining water from the plumbing, I connect an air compressor to all my water intake ports. Keeping the pressure below about 50 PSI with at least one fixture open, I push most of the water out, I drain first thru the low point drains then follow up on the sinks, toilet, etc. I also run some air thru the city water intake and the black tank flush intake...

I will use the air compressor to blow out *only* for non-overwintering (as if we have a short stint between the end of the season and a potential hard freeze). For locations where you risk a *really* hard freeze, just blowing out the lines unfortunately leaves enough water to collect at weak spots - in particular at 90°*bends and valves, like the toilet valve (a notorious freeze point) - risking potential damage. At this point (for long term over-wintering) I like the run antifreeze in the system and LEAVE it in the system.

Note that this will depend MIGHTILY on the conditions that YOUR trailer will see. A Florida or Arizona based camper *might* not see freezing conditions. A North Dakota, Iowa, or Wisconsin based trailer will *LIKELY* see a heavy freeze. Sam looks to be in SE Michigan, so he pretty much can count on a hard freeze or three over the winter. If his method is working for him, that's a solid recommendation in my book.

if I am running antifreeze through the system and leaving it in for the winter, I will not bother pre-blowing out the lines, and will instead let the antifreeze **push out** the water in the line.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

I made a short hose that I can connect to my plumbing drain ports. Using an air compressor, I connect the hose and put the end into an empty anti-freeze jug and pump the AF back out. I do hot and cold separately. Once you have run AF thru the lines and the various sink and other valves, there is no benefit to leaving the AF in the pipes. Some folks claim they can taste the AF the next season until enough water has gone thru the system to reduce the taste....

I actually want to put some valves on my low point drains such that I am not taking the caps off and setting them somewhere each time I open them, but - instead - are simply twisting a valve 90°.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

And the AF can be reused, or dumped into your drains as was noted in Rhumblefish's post.

Saving antifreeze (especially if you are only using it "lightly," as per Sam's method) makes a lot of sense. Since I am relying on the antifreeze for the wintertime as insurance against a hard freeze, and I am using it to push out water from the system (till it runs solid pink), I'm not in the antifreeze-saving camp... if for no other reason that it can and may degrade with dilution and time (year-over-year).

JUST MY WAY OF DOING IT FOR ME, this obviously doesn't apply to everyone.

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

I think it is best to reinstall the anode after the WH has drained. Less to do in the spring and it keeps critters and bugs from using the WH as a winter residence.

Yeah, it's a tossup. Since my onboard water comes from a variety of sources and I cannot be assured of its quality, I don't mind leaving the anode out, assisting in drying of the interior of the HWH. My Roo lives inside for the winter, and I've got the the screen vent caps that I added to the door of the HWH to reduce the likelihood of pest. I spose an owner could also stick a little stainless metal or plastic kitchen scrubby in the anode hole to block it from critters if they wanted the advantage of an open anode for the winter AND protect themselves from thirsty beasts.

As Sam shows, not only is there's no ONE right answer that works for everyone, there's also MULTIPLE methods of prepping your camper for the offseason.

Good conversation! Special thanks to SailorSam. Just my .02, hope this helps.

[LIW]

This is great information. Thank you for your help!!