Hot water heater

[urocav2001]

Any suggestions on how this happened? It's only one season old, just got unit back from winterization and it was still out of the heater.. Should I buy a new one service rep is telling me it's only a drain plug?!?!

[alparmer]

Looks pretty good for one season. It still has lots of life left in it. Don't forget to use Teflon tape when you reinstall it.

[youroo]

Good for another year! Youroo!!

[urocav2001]

Ok so it's suppose to be about half the diameter near the head? It looks like it's very skinny and brittle near the bolt

[wmtire]

Lou has an anode rod usage chart in the FAQ section:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post328766



If anyone tells you the anode rod is JUST a drain plug on a Suburban brand water heater, they need to educate themselves more.

Sacrificial anode rod protects your water heater tank from corrosion by attracting corrosive elements in water, so they attack the anode rod rather than your water heater tank interior.
Simply remove the anode rod from the tank and inspect it every three months. If it is mostly eaten away, replace it with a new one to extend the life of the tank.

To answer your original question, as others have stated you still have much life left in that one pictured. How long an anode rod last depends a lot on the content of the water in the tank, which is different in different parts of the country, municipalities, etc.

You had concerns about it being brittle near the bolt head. There is a metal rod that goes thru the entire length as you can see in the usage chart at 100% usage, so it's not going to break.

Here are some more pics so you can see this better:

[B47]

Originally Posted by urocav2001

Attachment 51979

Any suggestions on how this happened? It's only one season old, just got unit back from winterization and it was still out of the heater.. Should I buy a new one service rep is telling me it's only a drain plug?!?!

"It's only a drain plug?" - what else has your service rep told you?

It's your water heater anode rod that's attached to a drain plug for removal,inspection and replacement when necessary.

I'm often amused when people ask how could their water heater anode rod could deteriorate so fast for the following reasons:

1. There is no hard and fast rule regarding how fast these deteriorate - it depends on the mineral content of the water that is going into the water heater. If it's "soft" water,the rod will last longer that one in a water heater that "hard" water is used in.

2. As the rod deteriorates it's only doing it's intended function - its role is to "sacrifice" itself so the harmful minerals in the water attach it and not the water heater tank itself.

As stated - a chart showing the various stages of deterioration of these rods is posted and should be your guide in determining when you should replace the rod.

[iceblaze580]

Originally Posted by urocav2001

Attachment 51979

Any suggestions on how this happened? It's only one season old, just got unit back from winterization and it was still out of the heater.. Should I buy a new one service rep is telling me it's only a drain plug?!?!

Mine looked a lot worse than that after one season yours is good for at least another season

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by iceblaze580

Mine looked a lot worse than that after one season yours is good for at least another season

Yup, OPs still has resale value. Ours looked worst after 5 months. He must have good water in his area.

[kenandterry]

Personally............the OP should find another dealer for his RV concerns.

Guys like him give the business a bad name. A dealer would be better off to admit he doesn't know than lead you down the garden path with a story like his.

[B47]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Personally............the OP should find another dealer for his RV concerns.

Guys like him give the business a bad name. A dealer would be better off to admit he doesn't know than lead you down the garden path with a story like his.

X2 - don't ask him how your water heater bypass valve works or where it's located.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Personally............the OP should find another dealer for his RV concerns.

Guys like him give the business a bad name. A dealer would be better off to admit he doesn't know than lead you down the garden path with a story like his.

It's a shame they do that kind of stuff. Good thing there is the internet with forums like this. The dealer we bought our coach from will get nothing but incoming fire from us. I'll give you the shirt off my back until you try to cheat or lie to me. Like I said, it's a shame.

[urocav2001]

Yeah this camper store is a joke!!! They go thru service reps like water, none seem to know any info of campers..

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by urocav2001

Yeah this camper store is a joke!!! They go thru service reps like water, none seem to know any info of campers..

To answer your question why does it neck down? As the metal breaks down it generates a small current, the shortest path to the opposite polarity is the head of the plug and rod connection. All anodes breakdown there first.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by VinceU

To answer your question why does it neck down? As the metal breaks down it generates a small current, the shortest path to the opposite polarity is the head of the plug and rod connection. All anodes breakdown there first.

Good information. Thanks.

[richl167]

No first hand experience on these RV units, but I just picked up a new RV and my tech said replacing every year was typical. This of course depends on water quality and I'm guessing many folks replace sooner than needed as it "looks" used. As a now retired engineer, I will say that as long as you have sacrificial molecules, you are OK. When they are gone, the tank will corrode quickly. Looks like you may be better than average and have a couple of seasons left. I think this is roughly a $ 10 - 20 replacement part. I'll probably pick up one and carry as a spare for when mine needs replaced. I did not look at the offered material while I was in the store but see a lot of Aluminum and Aluminum alloy on line as well as Magnesium. Magnesium would give the best protection (cost the most) and corrode the fastest. Pure Al would be cheapest, corrode slowest, and give the least cathodic protection. So not looking "new" after one season could be a good thing and shows the tank is being protected from corrosion, and the sacrificial anode is working as designed !

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by richl167

(I) ... see a lot of Aluminum and Aluminum alloy on line as well as Magnesium. Magnesium would give the best protection (cost the most) and corrode the fastest. Pure Al would be cheapest, corrode slowest, and give the least cathodic protection.

Is aluminum alloy somewhere in between?

[richl167]

Yes. sometimes a little tin or zinc is added to the al for water heater catholic protection. I don't think it changes the cathodic protection much but can combat sulphur if it is in the water and give a better taste/smell to the water. Again, for these RV ones would have to check what materials are actually available.

[chriscowles]

So, if Al alloy are available and don't change the cathodic protection but offer some benefit with respect to taste and smell, it seems they might be better for RV applications? I draw that conclusion from the fact RV owners are exposed to a variety of water qualities, including smelly sulphur water. That assumes that Al alloy is sufficiently protective, even if not as protective as Mg.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

So, if Al alloy are available and don't change the cathodic protection but offer some benefit with respect to taste and smell, it seems they might be better for RV applications? I draw that conclusion from the fact RV owners are exposed to a variety of water qualities, including smelly sulphur water. That assumes that Al alloy is sufficiently protective, even if not as protective as Mg.

Chris before you get too tangential, l let me just add a fellow camper in the resort we were in developed a horrible odor/taste at all his hot water outlets. I've never seen it this bad. I diagnosed it as bacteria in his hotwater tank. The unit was less than a year old but I'd see the problem in homes. Had him thoroughly flush the heater out then applied a 50/50 solution Of Chlorine bleach directly into the heater via the relief valve. Took two applications but the "bugs" were killed and heater resumed. Anodes have no relation to taste or smell, only bi-metal reactions.

[richl167]

A little zinc mixed in with the Al allows the zinc molecules to bond with sulphur (if present) and form zinc sulphide. This is a stronger bond than the hydrogen in H2O forming hydrogen sulphide. Personally, if I were at a campground with a strong sulphur smell in the water, I would move or get some bottled water. Above is correct in that the zinc might help sulphur in the water but not bacteria. That is a wholly different problem. I plan to look for magnesium and then buy aluminum if I cannot find Mg as a spare. Pure Al or Alloy Al about equal in my book. As long as you don't skip the maintenance and check that material is actually left, tank should last fine.