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Old 03-30-2021, 10:39 AM   #21
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On inverter power only? If so, that's good. Our inverter breaker has a 12-amp fuse that will trip even on shore power (i.e., in pass-through mode) if we try and use a space heater on high (drawing 15 amps).

Yup, just on batteries. The mattress heaters are for sure not drawing current like a space heater will, which is also a motor in addition to the heating element. I’ll check it later on the battery monitor as I’m also curious.
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Old 03-30-2021, 10:57 AM   #22
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Curious how many amps that heated mattress draws.
If anything like mine it draws 120 watts at max setting.

One amp of 120 volt AC so from an inverter it would draw 10 amp from the batteries plus any overhead consumed by the inverter.

When I tested mine on a setting of "2", which is what I use when camping in cold weather, it only draws about 2-3 amps according to my Victron monitor.
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:05 AM   #23
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Here is the pic of my panel
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:21 AM   #24
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Here is the pic of my panel

The GFI/Refer will be your inverter 120v supply. Not sure what “general” is but I suspect that might be your other outlets. Plug into shore power, plug your tester into one of those outlets, and open the breaker. That will confirm.

In theory, you could disconnect the breaker and wire that in parallel to the inverted outlet circuit and be done. But I’m not an electrician so please confirm with one.
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Old 03-30-2021, 11:30 AM   #25
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That’s what I was thinking too...

Calling my electrician buddy now!
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:43 PM   #26
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Ok, my electrician buddy (licensed) told me I could disconnect the “general” breaker and splice into the “GFI/refer” breaker line and should be good to go. With the 16 amp fuse on the inverter and the 15 amp breaker, it should be safe from overload protection. I only run the fridge on gas so that shouldn’t draw too many amps.

Am I missing something here cause it sounds too easy of a fix?
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:47 PM   #27
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Just a comment. INverters(not CONverters)are new additions to the Roo/Shamrock line. Us owners of previous year Roo models never had this feature.
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Old 03-30-2021, 01:54 PM   #28
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Ok, my electrician buddy (licensed) told me I could disconnect the “general” breaker and splice into the “GFI/refer” breaker line and should be good to go. With the 16 amp fuse on the inverter and the 15 amp breaker, it should be safe from overload protection. I only run the fridge on gas so that shouldn’t draw too many amps.

Am I missing something here cause it sounds too easy of a fix?

Yes, that makes perfect sense to me. You basically could do it right inside or just behind the power panel. Just first confirm that the “general” is just those outlets.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:00 PM   #29
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If that circuit is dedicated to the inverter output, why have breakers on both the inverter and in the panel?
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:11 PM   #30
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If that circuit is dedicated to the inverter output, why have breakers on both the inverter and in the panel?

The GFI circuit in his case is probably dedicated to the inverter (since he has no refer on it) but he should confirm.

The 15a circuit is dedicated to supply power (pass through) to the inverter when RV is on shore power. It provides protection against a short or overcurrent. The 16a built in breaker on the inverter protects it and it’s AC inverted output circuit from overcurrent or shorts.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:24 PM   #31
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The GFI circuit in his case is probably dedicated to the inverter (since he has no refer on it) but he should confirm.

The 15a circuit is dedicated to supply power (pass through) to the inverter when RV is on shore power. It provides protection against a short or overcurrent. The 16a built in breaker on the inverter protects it and it’s AC inverted output circuit from overcurrent or shorts.
But I had a case where only the inverter breaker tripped while on shore power and I was running the 15A space heater. I suspect there were > 15 amps on that circuit as I had a couple other appliances on. Why didn't the 15A breaker on the panel trip?

Maybe the inverter breaker beat it to the punch since I'm pretty sure that it's only a 12A breaker.

I would also caution the OP to make sure his inverter breaker really is 16A...I have conflicting information in the inverter's user guide, with references to both a 12A and 16A breaker. Turns out it's 12A.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:31 PM   #32
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But I had a case where only the inverter breaker tripped while on shore power and I was running the 15A space heater. I suspect there were > 15 amps on that circuit as I had a couple other appliances on. Why didn't the 15A breaker on the panel trip?

Maybe the inverter breaker beat it to the punch since I'm pretty sure that it's only a 12A breaker.

I would also caution the OP to make sure his inverter breaker really is 16A...I have conflicting information in the inverter's user guide, with references to both a 12A and 16A breaker. Turns out it's 12A.

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For sure it’s a 16amp. See pic from the unit itself. You would blow that if you were not on shore power, as the power panel breaker is not in play then.
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:37 PM   #33
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Is that a WFCO WF-5110R? That portion of the back panel sure looks a lot like mine (which is a WF-5110R).
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:50 PM   #34
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Mine is the WF-5110RS who’s is the newer version of the R and I too have confirmed it’s a 16 amp breaker.

I will be double checking everything this weekend and verifying I’m going down the right path here...
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Old 03-30-2021, 02:57 PM   #35
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Yup...looks pretty much identical to mine save for the 16A breaker. Wanna bet they realized that 12A wasn't enough? Grrrrr.

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Old 03-30-2021, 03:25 PM   #36
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Is that a WFCO WF-5110R? That portion of the back panel sure looks a lot like mine (which is a WF-5110R).

Mine is the WF-5110RS. That must be the difference.
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Old 03-30-2021, 03:59 PM   #37
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Mine is the WF-5110RS. That must be the difference.
The description of the RS refers to efficiency at idle, as well. Other manufacturers are doing the same.
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Old 04-05-2021, 12:44 PM   #38
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Here is the 110 volt schematic for my trailer. Does anyone see any problems with my plan outlined earlier in this thread?
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Old 04-05-2021, 06:13 PM   #39
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Ok, so I tried splicing the “general” breaker into the GFCI breaker and it didn’t work to power up all outlets. Even with the GFCI breaker in the off position, the outlets wired to the inverter still worked.

Not sure where to go from here...
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Old 04-05-2021, 07:13 PM   #40
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Splicing the General Breaker wires into the GFCI breaker? That's before the inverter, thus won't work as you've found out.

The General break powers the side bed, entertainment Center, dinette and the night stand per the wiring diagram. If you wanted inverter power to this circuit, you'd have to pull some cable from the inverter to the panel. You'd pull this circuit from the general breaker (leaving it open) to a new junction box where you could attach the new inverter circuit to the former general break wires. That said, you'd be more likely to overload the inverter doing this and thus trip it's fuse or the refer/gfci breaker.

Also not sure why they're noting from Converter for those 2 circuits. That should say something like from Panel or from Shore power. The Converter feeds the DC side of the panel (along with your batteries, same bus).

I think I understand basically electrical decently enough, but maybe I'm missing something.
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