Jack Pads what is everyone using

[yetavon]

I have a selection of PT 4X6, 2X6 and 1X6 (5/8 decking) and one piece 1/2 Ply for fine leveling. We have one favorite site that a piece of firewood log is set on end. look near the cooler.

[wicked1]

Originally Posted by Jz5g52

Just started camping but use 2X12 treated wood had lowes cut me a bunch and worked great so far

Yep did the same thing but over time wool splits or cracks and it is getting old having to carry those books trying to find a lighter and simpler solution


2014 F150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB
2015 Roo 23IKSS

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[dcheatwood]

If not on cement, I use rectangles of 3/4" plywood, about 8" x12". They don't split like 2bys.

[kluza2786]

I read an article some time back that screwing exterior grade plywood onto the top and bottom of PT 2x lumber eliminated the splitting problem. Presumably it either helped distribute the weight better - or maybe just kept the split pieces contained.

[BOBFIDY]

Orange Lynx Levelers for me. 2 sets of 10 plus 2 sets of the topper pieces. I use them all the time, under tires if the site is un-level plus under all of the stabalizers.

[MilCop4523]

after the hauler set our trailer up and it slid sideways busting 2 jacks because all he had was a 6 by 6 inch block for the tougue jack...

and it had sunk into the ground where a tropical storm had rolled through a week before ...

We originally cut plywood blocks and packed them around for a year.
recently we purchased 3 packages of the Lynx Levellers. less weight and faster set up.

[wicked1]

Lynx leveled are the same as the Camco yellow blocks I have I will get more of those to stop carrying wood and bricks plus if I have to level which I have to at 3 places we camp I will already have them


2014 F150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB
2015 Roo 23IKSS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[sparty047]

I bought the yellow lego-style too....work fine on asphalt/concrete

However, since I have more space since I mounted a 60"L x 12"D x 14"H aluminum "ditty box" on my trailer tongue I have gone back to treated lumber pads... and like others ....did it by repurposing "scrap".

I have 6 - 1in Plywood-T all cut to 8" x 8" plus a few extra cut 4"x4" for leveling campground "picanic tables" or our Coleman cooktop.
I have 4 - 2x6 - T cut to 14" (a length that will slide between tires on our dual axles).
I have 4 - 4x4 - T cut to 10" length
I also retrieved a length of very old 6x10 - T mailbox post that had broken off at ground level - made 4 - 6x10 blocks each 8" tall (and a real bonus cause the aging made these blocks weigh in at only 4-5 oz!)

All these blocks were cut in dimensions to 1) provide sufficient surface area in softer ground and 2) to fit closely together within the "ditty box" without wasting any cubic inches of air space around them....in fact I filled some leftover spaces with 2x6 - T in 10" lengths to allow varying the height under the front jack support......or for use around the camp. I keep a wisk broom with them to brush off dirt as we break camp.


Not a lot of wide variety of terrains for use yet....but looking forward to using recently added 8" tall 6x10 blocks to reduce cranking required at the four corner scissor jacks.

If you like a tiddy looking setup.....bear in mind you can "glue up" scrap blocks of treated lumber with "below water" grade of construction adhesive to make something that "looks good" in use.


So, in summary I'd say I'm old school...the plastic blocks I will use when parked on asphalt or concrete but they just don't "stack up" to wooden blocks.



BTW WICKED......is it the picture are your rear scissor jacks mounted to the underside of the rear bumper or actually to the frame?

And FWIW....just IMHO...unless there's gravel in that dirt underneath those little bricks.....I could see a good rain leading to them sinking in.....same physics that makes high heels treacherous off the sidewalk.....not enough surface area for the weight resting on them.

[Timex]

I turn them(PT 4x6) sideways if I need another inch of height.

[RooVader]

i use the lego blocks for the scissor jacks but i am still trying to figure out the best thing that is lightweight for the tongue jack. Do most of you just use the metal foot that can be extended or are you putting some kind of wood block under that foot?

[dcheatwood]

Originally Posted by kluza2786

I read an article some time back that screwing exterior grade plywood onto the top and bottom of PT 2x lumber eliminated the splitting problem. Presumably it either helped distribute the weight better - or maybe just kept the split pieces contained.

That does work. I use mine under tires on one side also to level left to right. I never need it that thick so I bring @8 of the plywood pieces to stack as needed.
Watch out for nails and screws if the pieces separate.

[Ford Idaho]

Still wood but les of it.

[RETCHIEF]

I have 3 sets of the orange plastic blocks (10 packs) and use the all the time. I put some under the stabs and tongue jack and have stacked them for wheel leveling. They are light, store easy, and are strong. They are much lighter than wood and don't absorb water.

[schrederman]

8X8 pieces of 3/4" plywood. I carry 12 of them. Where I park for storage, I have a couple of 2X12X 6' PT lumber to keep the tires off the ground. They help me get the trailer back in the same spot each time, too.

[dannyabear]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Still wood but les of it.

Best idea i've seen, thanks

[Sloopie1]

One of our local parks doesn't allow the plastic leveling pads - you are required to use wood. Their reasoning is that in the heat of the day, the weight of your TT or MH will "press the plastic" into the asphalt. They even have a stack of wood by the ranger station for you to replace the plastic with.

We carry 1 x 6's with us and have stapled a "handle" on one side made out of ski rope and made a pusher/puller out of PVC pipe for ease of placement/removal under the jacks of our MH.

[bikendan]

use Lynx Levelers along with some 2x6 boards for backups.