Leaking seam on shamrock bunk

[kjholsworth]

Hello, New to the camping community and need some advice....have a 2012 shamrock hybrid and was told the two bottom seams of the front bunk were leaking water causing the canvas between the bunk and camper to be slightly wet. It was recommended to have the bunk taken off and the two seams re-stitched. Also recommended that when the outer black seal around the bunk opening is not perfectly straight anymore these should be re-placed to prevent leakage. Anyone have any advice? Thanks!

[SeaDog]

Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. I'm sure there is someone on the forum that has experienced what you are seeing

[rsdata]

kjholsworth

please post some pictures

is it the hinge area that is bad?

[kjholsworth]

I cant seam to upload photos....they did re-seal the bottom outer edge of the front bunk(which would allow for water to leak in when closed). this is right above the hinge They also recommended replacing the seals around the compartment as one is a little crimped. All advice is very appreciated!

[rsdata]

I cant seam to upload photos

easiest way to upload photos is to use the paper clip attachment, use the Manage attachments popup, find the pic on your computer then upload

[kjholsworth]

Thank you for pointers on how to.....photos should be attached.

[rsdata]

was told the two bottom seams of the front bunk were leaking water causing the canvas between the bunk and camper to be slightly wet.

seams do NOT typically leak... the stitching will expand to close the thread holes and seal... BUT

I would use a seam sealer on this stitched seam... search amazon for tent seam sealer for suggestions

is your vinyl permanently attached at the bottom edges of the bunk? Models prior to 2012 I think were shock corded and bungee corded to the underside of the hinged bunk end on the outside edge... newer are permanently affixed. The older style were more prone to water leakage due to rain getting past the black outer seal and wetting the mattress area and hinge area.

when I close my 2014 tent ends the vinyl tent forms a U shape, and if the canvas windows are fully zipped any leaking water past the outside seal pools on the tent and does not get inside. When I open the bunk end I sometimes ( not always) find a cup or two of water pooled, that instantly drains when the tent is pushed out.

When the bunk is deployed and dry, I would apply seam sealer and a silicon-based water-proof treatment to the canvas windows only. After all that is dry I then use 303 AEROSPACE PROTECTANT ON THE VINYL... read the directions to make sure you wipe it off thoroughly. Amazon again...

Check that the bunk doors under the mattresses are dry and not soft from moisture intrusion especially near the hinged area at the bottom. Sometimes water damage can be seen from the fiberglass getting wavy as seen from the outside.

The black outside seal should be cleaned with a cleaner and anti-mold spray, then maybe a rubber conditioner like Armor-All... if it is deformed it might go back into shape after cleaning and conditioning.

take more pictures of any problem areas...

[bikendan]

You can seam sealer at Wal-Mart's camping section.

[kjholsworth]

Thank you for the information. A sealer was applied to the seams in the photo. I used McGuires canvas spray as the manufacturer recommended a few weeks ago to clean the canvas of all 3 bunks. The 2012 hybrid canvas is attached to the bottom. Would you still use the 303 even after the recent cleaning with McGuires? This is really useful information as we were considering drastic measures.
Would you clean the black seals as you describe before replacing? see if this works? Information is much appreciated!

[kjholsworth]

What kind of cleaner/anti-mold spray is recommended for the black seals? Thanks!

[RooToo]

RSData nailed it. i am having the same issue with my 2017 Roo 233S and if my RV dealer cant come up with a solution to prevent water from getting into my camper, I will be doing the same repair as RSData discribed. I would recommend gutters above the bunk doors to shed water from above the doors. I fabricated some gutters from some vinyl siding J channel that I purchased from my local home improvement store. after I reworked the J channel a bit, painted them and attached with some good 3M double sided tape. If I say they look good on my new camper and do a good job redirecting the water.
RooToo

[rsdata]

there are lots of sprays for anti-mold... likes this
Mold Armor FG516 Mold Blocker, Trigger Spray 32-Ounce
Walmart, Home Depot, Dollar stores are three places I have bought from... just a spray bottle that gets dissolves and gets rid of black mold on most any surface. I use it alot under the vinyl folds where sometimes the threads get that black mold on them and sometimes the canvas if you camp in a wet/damp environment.

The 303 is a UV protectant to protect the vinyl from sun... only use it on the vinyl... use the sealer on the thread seams, use silicon waterproof spray to waterproof the canvas especially in windy and rainy weather like in FL.

After cleaning the black rubber with anti-mold spray, until a clean cloth stays clean when you wipe... then hit is with 303. I also make sure that the white plastic that fits against the black rubber is also clean and shiny for a good seal.

When closing the bunks make sure that all vinyl is pushed inside the sides before you seal it up. A tip is to put both exhaust fans inside on high, close windows and doors and tent will tend to be sucked into the interior, especially on warm days when the vinyl is not stiff.

Again, just make sure that the bunk ends under the mattress and near the hinge is not affected by moisture. That is a bigger problem.

[kjholsworth]

Thank you for all the great tips! When u mentioned looking under mattress & hinge area for damage, what should I look for?

[kjholsworth]

Thanks! We plan on installing a gutter system

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by kjholsworth

Thank you for all the great tips! When u mentioned looking under mattress & hinge area for damage, what should I look for?

When the bunk doors leak, water pools down around the hinge area.
This may damage the wood around the hinge or wick into the bunk door's luan sandwich construction, causing delam.

[mnoland30]

These trailers are notorious for leaking at the bunk ends. I added gutters, and make sure you check the caulking on the doors every 6 months or so. My black seals slide down occasionally, and I have to push them back up. That said, I love the ROO. It is small enough to camp almost anywhere, and big enough for 6 when we open it up.

[rsdata]

When u mentioned looking under mattress & hinge area for damage, what should I look for?

Looking at the first photo on post #6... this hinge area is where water will settle IF it gets past the seals and the tent, so water damage to the paper like material that covers the bunk will be apparent. Also, when closed... look at how smooth, or alternatively how wavy the fiberglass is. When the bunk doors get wet the fiberglass will start to look wavy as it begins to de-laminate from the underlying wood. You should also be looking at the area under the hinge too.

In your picture I do not see a problem, but you need to do a good inspection looking for waterspotting. If you suspect a wet spot, then push on it with your finger and feel for softness of the underlying material. Anything NOT firm is suspect of having been damaged.

Also be aware that not all Roo model years bunk ends are alike. I think you have a style that is different... I think 2011 or 2012 through maybe 2015 are differently made then earlier years and the newest models are different again. I have a 2014 that was built Sep 2013, and I think we have the same style bunk ends... although I have a Shamrock which is a sister to the Roo. Maybe someone else can clarify the specific years...

I hope this helps some...

[Rodski]

Does anyone think something like this would work to provide a drip edge above the top seal? I was thinking about applying a bead of silicone to the back of it and then adhering it to the bunk.

Amerimax Home Products 1-5/8 in. x 10 in. White Aluminum Window Cap-5506000120 - The Home Depot

I have a 2016 roo 21DK that has started leaking during hard rains on BOTH bunks. I tried using a 1 x 1 1/4 drip but it was flush with the seal, so either a 1 5/8 or 1 1/2 edge will be needed to just get over the seal edge.

Also, how much pressure do you guys feel on the seals when you close the latches? Mine became non existent to the point the latch would fall in the down position with just a touch if I didn't lock it, so I tightened them up according to one of the posts i found on here and the pressure did tighten up a bit, but it didn't stop the leaking. I'd say it still feels minimal to moderate pressure when latching. I read to not overtighten the latch or it could deform the seals and make it all worse, so I'm not sure how much is too much if that makes sense.

[Rodski]

Also, - forest river does sell a bunk latch "shim kit" that is used to put additional pressure on the seals. Has anyone ordered these and installed them?

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by Rodski

Does anyone think something like this would work to provide a drip edge above the top seal? I was thinking about applying a bead of silicone to the back of it and then adhering it to the bunk.

Amerimax Home Products 1-5/8 in. x 10 in. White Aluminum Window Cap-5506000120 - The Home Depot

I have a 2016 roo 21DK that has started leaking during hard rains on BOTH bunks. I tried using a 1 x 1 1/4 drip but it was flush with the seal, so either a 1 5/8 or 1 1/2 edge will be needed to just get over the seal edge.

Also, how much pressure do you guys feel on the seals when you close the latches? Mine became non existent to the point the latch would fall in the down position with just a touch if I didn't lock it, so I tightened them up according to one of the posts i found on here and the pressure did tighten up a bit, but it didn't stop the leaking. I'd say it still feels minimal to moderate pressure when latching. I read to not overtighten the latch or it could deform the seals and make it all worse, so I'm not sure how much is too much if that makes sense.

Check the corners where the seals butt into each other. The top seal should come past the vertical seals a little further than their outer edge and it should be down tight on them. If you have a gap there, that's most likely the leak. You can remove and shim the door mounted post of the latch system so it applies more pressure if needed.

That flashing may work but the horizontal leg should be longer so water that drips off does not drip onto the seal, especially at the front. I had one of my suppliers bend me some in a similar shape from 020 aluminum used for storefronts with hemmed edges in a color to match the oyster fiberglasd. I attached it with 3M tape. I think my horizontal leg is 2 ".