Manually Extend Slide Out

[rootree]

We will be dry camping at Mather Campground in the Grand Canyon. So I am preparing to ensure we are prepared. I will be installing new batteries (2) for additional amp hours. We really only plan to operate the refrigerator on propane and minimal other drain.

So in prepping setup today I wanted to manually operate the tongue jack (have power version) and slide out. I wanted to make sure everything would work manually and I understood the systems.

Tongue jack was no problem. I was able to insert crank and raise and lower the tongue jack.

Slide out was another story. I inserted the crank to manually extend the slide out. It would not turn and I ended up breaking a cotter pin on the extension that goes to the slide motor. I panicked as the slide then did not work via the control panel button. I replaced the extension and cotter pin and then the slide did operate under power.

So how do I manually extend and retract the slide? I am guessing my error was that the camper was plugged in to shore power. Perhaps it only works manually with no power (shore or battery)?

If I have to use power, what would be the drain to utilize the control panel to extend and retract the slide?

Thanks for your input!

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by rootree

We will be dry camping at Mather Campground in the Grand Canyon. So I am preparing to ensure we are prepared. I will be installing new batteries (2) for additional amp hours. We really only plan to operate the refrigerator on propane and minimal other drain.

So in prepping setup today I wanted to manually operate the tongue jack (have power version) and slide out. I wanted to make sure everything would work manually and I understood the systems.

Tongue jack was no problem. I was able to insert crank and raise and lower the tongue jack.

Slide out was another story. I inserted the crank to manually extend the slide out. It would not turn and I ended up breaking a cotter pin on the extension that goes to the slide motor. I panicked as the slide then did not work via the control panel button. I replaced the extension and cotter pin and then the slide did operate under power.

So how do I manually extend and retract the slide? I am guessing my error was that the camper was plugged in to shore power. Perhaps it only works manually with no power (shore or battery)?

If I have to use power, what would be the drain to utilize the control panel to extend and retract the slide?

Thanks for your input!

Shore power should not factor in at all. IICR, if you break the cotter, then the gearbox it disconnected from the extension shaft. The motor will turn, but not run the shaft. The motor by itself is pretty quiet and you probably won't hear it run from the control panel.

The slide takes a bit of power to operate. (it has a 30A fuse). I would try it again with the hand crank. Maybe something was bound up. Run the slide out a few inches on the motor, and try to crank it back in by hand. Then try to crank it back out again.

Tim

[jking46]

Remember you can operate the power tongue jack and power slides simply by plugging the camper into the tow vehicle.

[Medic97]

Also be aware that when manualy cranking the slide, you are really operating the opposite slide. It may have moved and you just did not see it if you were expecting the slide you were working on to be moving.

Good luck!

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by jking46

Remember you can operate the power tongue jack and power slides simply by plugging the camper into the tow vehicle.

not necessarily. Most TVs cannot source the amperage required to run the jack or slide through the towing connection.

Tim

[jking46]

Only going on past experience. It has worked for me when I forgot to use the battery disconnect and ended up with a dead battery.

[GreenImp]

Originally Posted by Medic97

Also be aware that when manualy cranking the slide, you are really operating the opposite slide. It may have moved and you just did not see it if you were expecting the slide you were working on to be moving.

Good luck!

This little tidbit of info got me a couple weeks ago. I was troubleshooting an inoperable slide and broke the above mentioned pin when expecting the slide I was underneath to move when turning the manual crank on that same side.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

not necessarily. Most TVs cannot source the amperage required to run the jack or slide through the towing connection.

Tim

My TV couldn't. Had to use the manual crank.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

not necessarily. Most TVs cannot source the amperage required to run the jack or slide through the towing connection.

Tim

But some can.
Went window shopping with my brother this past weekend.
The dealer did not have batteries in any of the units on the lot.
The dealer raised and lowered the jacks and put the slides in and out on about 10 different units all by plugging the 7 pin connector into his lot truck.

[BeagleIL]

Originally Posted by jking46

Only going on past experience. It has worked for me when I forgot to use the battery disconnect and ended up with a dead battery.

My experience is the same as yours. Tow vehicle power has worked for me when the battery was dead!

[syogerst]

Use TV all the time to close slides with the truck running. No problem!

[youroo]

Originally Posted by rootree

We will be dry camping at Mather Campground in the Grand Canyon. So I am preparing to ensure we are prepared. I will be installing new batteries (2) for additional amp hours. We really only plan to operate the refrigerator on propane and minimal other drain.

So in prepping setup today I wanted to manually operate the tongue jack (have power version) and slide out. I wanted to make sure everything would work manually and I understood the systems.

Tongue jack was no problem. I was able to insert crank and raise and lower the tongue jack.

Slide out was another story. I inserted the crank to manually extend the slide out. It would not turn and I ended up breaking a cotter pin on the extension that goes to the slide motor. I panicked as the slide then did not work via the control panel button. I replaced the extension and cotter pin and then the slide did operate under power.

So how do I manually extend and retract the slide? I am guessing my error was that the camper was plugged in to shore power. Perhaps it only works manually with no power (shore or battery)?

If I have to use power, what would be the drain to utilize the control panel to extend and retract the slide?

Thanks for your input!

When using the Motor and Switch you will hear the "Dreadful Noise" when at the Extreme "In or Out" position! Now when you use the "Hand Crank" you are going "Direct Drive" and you can at times Do Damage to Stops or Trim! I would say if you sheared the "Shear Pin" that is a Good thing,you were turning it the Wrong way! Gear slides need a CHARGED Battery or you can even Blow a Fuse also! Youroo!!

[rootree]

Thanks for everyone's input

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[B and B]

Originally Posted by jking46

Only going on past experience. It has worked for me when I forgot to use the battery disconnect and ended up with a dead battery.

X 2 Same here.

[DirtSquirt]

We always take the battery out before putting the trailer into winter storage and plugging my TV in has always worked for us too UNTIL this spring! I went to pick up the trailer and didn't bother bringing the battery as plugging into the truck has always worked. This time, nothing. I looked at all of the fuses and the electrical and everything looked fine. The tongue jack wouldn't make a peep though, and no electricity seemed to be getting to the trailer (no lights inside, nothing), although the signal and brake lights were still working. I spent a 1/2 hour fooling around with the truck running and plugged into the trailer before giving up and cranking the jack by hand. When I got home and tried it again, it suddenly worked! No idea why it wouldn't work before.

All this to say, try it at home to see if your TV will do it, but don't count on it working again later. I guess I should definitely learn how to put my slide in manually as well.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by DirtSquirt

We always take the battery out before putting the trailer into winter storage and plugging my TV in has always worked for us too UNTIL this spring! I went to pick up the trailer and didn't bother bringing the battery as plugging into the truck has always worked. This time, nothing. I looked at all of the fuses and the electrical and everything looked fine. The tongue jack wouldn't make a peep though, and no electricity seemed to be getting to the trailer (no lights inside, nothing), although the signal and brake lights were still working. I spent a 1/2 hour fooling around with the truck running and plugged into the trailer before giving up and cranking the jack by hand. When I got home and tried it again, it suddenly worked! No idea why it wouldn't work before.

All this to say, try it at home to see if your TV will do it, but don't count on it working again later. I guess I should definitely learn how to put my slide in manually as well.

So if I read this right, you're towing your trailer home without a battery. So if it jumps off the hitch on the way home, the emergency brakes aren't going to work, since there's no battery.

Stay away from my neighborhood, please.

[DirtSquirt]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

So if I read this right, you're towing your trailer home without a battery. So if it jumps off the hitch on the way home, the emergency brakes aren't going to work, since there's no battery.

Stay away from my neighborhood, please.

Seriously? No need to be rude, you could have phrased that nicely in order to educate instead. How about "not having the battery in could be a safety issue if the trailer were ever to become detached from the tow vehicle". And then, you could explain exactly how that safety mechanism would work because I actually have no idea and hadn't thought about that possibility. Would you like to rephrase your response now in order to do so?

Secondly, how would the trailer jump off of the TV? The hitch is locked down on the ball, the receiver is locked into the TV, the sway bars connect the trailer to the hitch, and there are two chains that run from the truck to the trailer that are shorter than the cable that supplies the electricity to the trailer. So basically, the trailer would somehow have to become unhitched, both sway bars detach, and both chains snap before having no battery could become an issue. How much of a chance is there of that happening?

[HONDAMAN174]

I recently had no power coming into trailer. TV had 12v and checked circuit breaker under the frame and that was good. Traced the 7-pin harness to a junction box and found a 30 fuse (blown) in a not nice to get to spot. I am removing the fuse and replacing with resettable fuse/breaker tonight.


2014 Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra "Clifford"

[bikendan]

DirtSquirt, it's required by law to have battery power for the emergency brake, while towing.

Understand that you may not have known but shame on the dealer for not including that info during your PDI.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by bikendan

DirtSquirt, it's required by law to have battery power for the emergency brake, while towing.

Understand that you may not have known but shame on the dealer for not including that info during your PDI.

What Bikendan said.

You said, "We always take the battery out before putting the trailer into winter storage and plugging my TV in has always worked for us too UNTIL this spring!"

That sounded to me like you've been around the block a time or two. If no one has ever explained electric brakes to you, whoever sold you your trailer did you a great disservice. Or maybe you have a small popup without brakes - we don't know because you never said what you have (similar to another pet peeve of some folks on the forum - http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rs-107347.html).

Trailers over (usually) 3500 lbs are required to have brakes. These are almost always electric brakes, controlled by a controller in your tow vehicle, such as a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 (https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Contr...sha/90195.html). The controller sends a varying voltage to the brakes depending on how hard you are braking. While the controller sends voltage to the brakes, there is also an emergency breakaway switch on the trailer. In addition to the hitch, those sway bars, and safety chains, you should have a mechanical breakaway cable (https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...54-85-007.html) from this switch to your tow vehicle. If the trailer comes off the tow vehicle, the cable will pull a pin out of the switch. The switch will then apply full BATTERY voltage to the trailer brakes to help to stop it from going where ever it wants to go.

If trailers never came off tow vehicles, the gov't wouldn't require the emergency breakaway system.

So know you know what you need to know.

PS: I didn't think I was rude; I simply stated the facts as I thought I saw them (as it was possible I had them wrong) and asked you not to hang around my neighborhood. That was heart-felt. If you've really been hauling a TT around that has brakes but no battery, I don't want you near me. Sorry if you took it as rude; it wasn't meant to be; however my safety definitely felt threatened. If your dealer really didn't tell you any of this, HE's the guy you should be upset with. If you have a popup with no brakes, I wouldn't have said a thing if I had known it, but you never said what you have.