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06-10-2017, 06:42 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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No power from battery to trailer
Getting ready for the first outing of the year and I ran into a snag? I'm not getting any power from the battery to the interior. I've got a 2015 Roo 21DK. I've gone through the battery disconnect ordeal and the only thing I cam come up with his a reset switch under the frame. Lead comes from the battery and goes through this little switch, it has a very small button, that when pushed is suppose to reset the power. I feel pretty confident this is what the problem is, but curious if anyone else has run into this. Here are pictures of the culprit.
Thanks for any help,
Jim
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06-10-2017, 06:47 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Box elder
Posts: 728
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If you have a voltmeter is there power on both sides on the breaker?
Red to one side of breaker, ground to battery ground. Then red to other side of breaker and black to battery ground.
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2015 silverback 31IK
2023 f350
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06-10-2017, 07:12 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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Thanks, I'lll check that out. Is that what that is, a breaker?
Jim
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06-10-2017, 07:31 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cedar Creek Lake, TX
Posts: 3,484
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Yes, it is a circuit breaker.
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Cedar Creek Lake, Texas
2019 Keystone Loredo 290SRL
2019 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins crew cab
Andersen hitch
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06-10-2017, 10:21 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 120
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Had the same thing on mine the first time out, had to replace the 40 amp fuse that is along the driver's side of the frame, between the battery and the cabin. It may have been a 30 and I put a 40 in it.
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06-10-2017, 11:19 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,472
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If you check it like imusa said in his post and find you need a new resettable breaker they are available at any auto parts store.
List: Circuit Breaker | O'Reilly Auto Parts
check the fuse in the green holder also.
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You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality – Ayn Rand
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06-11-2017, 05:48 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Country
Had the same thing on mine the first time out, had to replace the 40 amp fuse that is along the driver's side of the frame, between the battery and the cabin. It may have been a 30 and I put a 40 in it.
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I did check the fuse and it appeared to be okay. I guess changing it wouldn't hurt.
Thanks,
Jim
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06-11-2017, 05:51 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob213
If you check it like imusa said in his post and find you need a new resettable breaker they are available at any auto parts store.
List: Circuit Breaker | O'Reilly Auto Parts
check the fuse in the green holder also.
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Thanks,because the reset switch won't work, I'll probably replace it Thanks for the tip about O'Reilly's
Jim
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06-11-2017, 06:50 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 499
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Please consider using a multimeter to see if you have 12v on both sides of fuses or circuit breakers . when you find a side without 12v, you found the problem. Otherwise you're just guessing
__________________
2006 Roo 23B hybrid
2006 Ford F150 4.6L
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06-11-2017, 07:12 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,060
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resettable circuit breaker
The item in your picture is called a resettable circuit breaker. With the quality of Chinese's parts, .... I would keep spares around. I've replaced some of mine with a waterproof fuse. CBs, fuses should not "blow" as routine. If one went, you had a problem: find the problem and repair or remove it.
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06-11-2017, 09:37 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270S
The item in your picture is called a resettable circuit breaker. With the quality of Chinese's parts, .... I would keep spares around. I've replaced some of mine with a waterproof fuse. CBs, fuses should not "blow" as routine. If one went, you had a problem: find the problem and repair or remove it.
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X2. My 2012 doesn't have any resettable fuses, and I've never had any problems. I have helped several friends with newer rigs replace their resettable fuses with either quality ones or real fuses. In every case the OEM resettable fuse was junk and popped off continually. After replacing, there have been zero problems.
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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06-11-2017, 06:15 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Dunn, NC
Posts: 1,199
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Ground wire
Had same problem. The ground wire that is attached to frame by the wires you see; remove it, clean everything (shinny) and re attavh.
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06-12-2017, 08:48 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockmanjim
Getting ready for the first outing of the year and I ran into a snag? I'm not getting any power from the battery to the interior. I've got a 2015 Roo 21DK. I've gone through the battery disconnect ordeal and the only thing I cam come up with his a reset switch under the frame. Lead comes from the battery and goes through this little switch, it has a very small button, that when pushed is suppose to reset the power. I feel pretty confident this is what the problem is, but curious if anyone else has run into this. Here are pictures of the culprit.
Thanks for any help,
Jim
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That happen to us years ago when we had a TT,,, had to go to RV shop on our way North,,, teck replaced it for us,,, I bought a extra to carry with us,,, had it about 8 years and never needed it !!! still have it somewhere ???
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06-12-2017, 10:26 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 148
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I was under mine this wknd and noted both nuts were loose that secure the wires to the breaker. FR never included any method to retain the nuts. So I added star washers.....should add some loctite too.
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06-12-2017, 01:28 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrickim63
Please consider using a multimeter to see if you have 12v on both sides of fuses or circuit breakers . when you find a side without 12v, you found the problem. Otherwise you're just guessing
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Ok, I have a multimeter. I have never used one before but I'm assuming I put it on the D.C. Setting. If I understand correctly. I put the red probe on the lead coming into the breaker, the black probe goes where? If I have powe there, then I would put the red probe on the green wire and go through the same process. Is that correct?
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06-12-2017, 01:52 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clockmanjim
Ok, I have a multimeter. I have never used one before but I'm assuming I put it on the D.C. Setting. If I understand correctly. I put the red probe on the lead coming into the breaker, the black probe goes where? If I have powe there, then I would put the red probe on the green wire and go through the same process. Is that correct?
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Black on ground, the white wire with the yellow crimp connector held down by the corroded screw. Red to each side of the breaker one at a time, if the breaker is working, both sides will show 12vdc.
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2016 Windjammer 3006WK - Sold July 2018
2002 Lance Lite 835EC TC - Sold July 2015
2010 Dodge Ram 2500, 4x4, Diesel, Front Hitch, Air Lift 5000 Rear Air Bags, Sold Mar 2019.
MISSION COMPLETED!
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06-13-2017, 08:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
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Anyone that owns an RV must have a Multimeter and learn how to use it !!!
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06-13-2017, 12:48 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 52
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Set the Multimeter to 20 volts DC,
starting at the battery, check your voltage, should be 13 ish volts plus or minus.
Test using the multimeter leads, and touch the red one to your connector, one to a ground, before and after each section. You should get a reading each time. If not that's where your power stops. Could be a resetable fuse, key disconnect, or a bad wire.
I had a similar event last year, my case was the key disconnect switch dealio had failed...$5 part online, but my dealer fixed me up quick as it was still under warranty.
Free-with-coupon ($3 without) multimeter, or 12v test light from Harbor Freight is more than good enough, leave it in the camper.
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06-14-2017, 08:10 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
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I want to thank everyone for their tips & info. I replaced the breaker ( which I'm told is now automatically resetable) and I'm happy to report that I now have power through the battery.
Thanks again to all
Jim
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06-22-2017, 03:31 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Central CT
Posts: 62
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Here's a 40 amp unit hidden away from dirt and dust...
and got rid of the one under the trailer...
consider this next time it goes bad.
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