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Old 08-23-2012, 11:08 AM   #1
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Of Chocks and Blocks

Hi All,

I got two questions.

First off, I have observed (and followed like a lemming) people have their stabilizers resting on large wooden blocks. Someone told me that this is because that places less stress on the sissors jack. I say, Bull. If the company that made the camper thought that you would need to shorten the distance between jack and ground they would have supplied blocks of some sort. I think that it is just more convenient to jack up and down six inches than the whole 18 (or whatever) to the ground.

Am I correct?

Second, I have observed campers that stay year after year in the same spot with chocks in front of and behind the wheels. Now, bear in mind, this is on units that have their stabilizers down. What are the chances of a camper rolling out of place with the stabilizers down?

Just asking. :-)
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:44 AM   #2
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I have the yellow legos under each stabilizing jack to reduce the distance I have to crank. A pleasant side effect is reduced (perceived) wiggle in the camper. A smaller "lever" moves less.

I chock my wheels front and back not only to reduce the chance of the trailer "rolling away" but to limit the forward and back movement leading to the above wiggle. I back the trailer into place, then move up a few inches and then back the trailer onto the chocks, then chock in front. Puts tension on both limiting the movement.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:51 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Zsnake View Post
Hi All,

I got two questions.

First off, I have observed (and followed like a lemming) people have their stabilizers resting on large wooden blocks. Someone told me that this is because that places less stress on the sissors jack. I say, Bull. If the company that made the camper thought that you would need to shorten the distance between jack and ground they would have supplied blocks of some sort. I think that it is just more convenient to jack up and down six inches than the whole 18 (or whatever) to the ground.

Am I correct?

Second, I have observed campers that stay year after year in the same spot with chocks in front of and behind the wheels. Now, bear in mind, this is on units that have their stabilizers down. What are the chances of a camper rolling out of place with the stabilizers down?

Just asking. :-)
Don't use blocks unless the jacks won't reach the ground and never use chocks on the ground. I use the Bal X Chocks that lock between and on the tires. Also use stab jacks that are bolted to the tube in front of the axles to minimize any movement. This is in additon to the homemade stabilizers going from the frame on one side to the jack pad on the opposite side. Stops all movement.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:53 AM   #4
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Hello,

I place 4"x4" blocking and a 1'x1'x3/4" piece of plywood under all of my jacks to help prevent them from sinking into the ground. It has nothing to do with the amount I have to crank it down.

The wheel chocks in front/behind the tire is a safety feature. Once the camper is stabilized, there still could be slight movement, which in turn could bend your stabilizers, if you don't have wheel chocks. I use X-Chocks and love them.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:03 PM   #5
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The further you extend your scissor jacks the less stable they become. In my experience it helps to place blocks under them to shorten how far they're extended and provide more strength.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:04 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Len & Cheri
The further you extend your scissor jacks the less stable they become. In my experience it helps to place blocks under them to shorten how far they're extended and provide more strength.
X2
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:25 PM   #7
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It's all about reducing the distance to lower the jacks for me. Nothing more, nothing less.
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:59 PM   #8
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Thanks all for your input. Never thought of the chocks affecting the stability of the camper.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:20 PM   #9
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Seems pretty obvious to me that the stabilizer jacks have a better base (more stable) when NOT fully extended, so I use a 6x6 under each.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:54 PM   #10
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Seems pretty obvious to me that the stabilizer jacks have a better base (more stable) when NOT fully extended, so I use a 6x6 under each.
Ditto



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Old 08-23-2012, 04:02 PM   #11
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I stick a lynx leveler under each of mine so the feet don't sink into the ground.

Helps keep stuff from falling off them (ie: sand, rocks, gravel, etc) and battering the trailer underside when towing. Mainly because I'm too lazy to stop, crouch under the edge and clean the feet off if they do get stuff on them.

I chock my wheels mainly as a precaution. With the tongue jack down and a 400-500 lbs on it, it's pretty hard imagine the trailer going very far. They also take a bit of wiggle out of the trailer.

I also use chocks because I haven't bought a good set of x chocks yet.....
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:04 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Gjfournier48 View Post
Hello,

I place 4"x4" blocking and a 1'x1'x3/4" piece of plywood under all of my jacks to help prevent them from sinking into the ground. It has nothing to do with the amount I have to crank it down.

The wheel chocks in front/behind the tire is a safety feature. Once the camper is stabilized, there still could be slight movement, which in turn could bend your stabilizers, if you don't have wheel chocks. I use X-Chocks and love them.

I do the same. Another reason for the yellow wheel chocks: all the safety precautions are needed when the Love Machine gets cranked up!
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:04 PM   #13
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IMHO: Yes, this may be more than you asked for, but---

The first thing we do after establishing where we’ll put the 5w and side-to-side leveling is put our chocks between the tires on each side and of course, then applying pressure on the bolt. X-Chock Tire Locking Chock, 2-Pack. We use these because they prevent roll in both tires and the RV shakes less when completely setup. They work and are also out of the mud, if any.

The last thing we do after a complete walk-around and pull test on the 5w is remove the chocks.

To date we've seen 3 pickups with huge dents in the box from RV's rolling away without the PU, or the PU driving away without the RV. Even on flat ground, an RV tends to move back when connecting the kingpin. One man with whom I spoke said it cost him $10,000 for the replacement of the box on his brand new PU, plus the undercarriage, and the repair on his brand new 5w.

I asked him how come he didn't fix it, since the insurance company paid, his answer: because this was the second time he did this-- drove out from under the 5w. That made 4 PU’s with dents and damage to the nose of the RV.

My story: I was new to 5w’s--- and was slightly off-center with the kingpin but enough to move the landing jacks off the blocks. The jacks landed on hard-pack, but fortunately the jacks were extended enough to prevent any damage. I was lucky.

My friends story: His motorhome wound up in the neighbor’s yard because he forgot to block the tires, and his breaking system wasn't set properly. Fortunately, this only cost him a couple thousand for the fence, a new tire and rim, and loss of face.

As Clint Eastwood said in a move: "Do you feel luck, punk?"

So: before you decide you are connected, try a pull-test. This means you 1. are prepared to leave with your slides in, TV antenna down, cords and stuff stowed, rear stabilizing jacks up, all that.

2. then, you connect with the 5w's hitch (assuming you have a 5w and lock it into place with the necessary break-away system and locking pins, plugs, etc. I doubt it’s much different with a TT or even a motor home.

3. But, for a 5w, you lift the landing jacks in the front just off the ground—not too far.

4. Next, put the PU in gear and slowly drive forward and then reverse.

5. Assuming you've completed the task with the 5w attached and it didn't come undone, remove and stow the chocks, safely drive away. If it did detach, the 5w only falls a little bit and I hope, not on your PU.

PS: often, neighbors or friends will start a conversation with you while you are setting up or preparing to leave. Because it's a routine, be polite and ask them to give you a few minutes. After establishing your connection or position and completing your routine, resume the conversation. Breaking a routine is a recipe for damage.

Mike
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:42 PM   #14
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...After establishing your connection or position and completing your routine, resume the conversation. Breaking a routine is a recipe for damage.

Mike
X2 plus trying the trailer brakes by themselves.
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Old 08-23-2012, 04:55 PM   #15
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I definitely use chocks (X-chocks while at the campground, and ramp chocks at home). I personally witnessed one of my friends a few weeks ago, forget to chock their camper and it roll while we were all setting up.

They were putting down their front-left stabilizer (the tongue jack was on blocks) and I guess this lifted the tongue just a hair enough as the trailer rolled forward, and actually twisted/broke the stablilizer jack........and the tongue jack fell off it's blocks.

Had to hook the trailer back up to the truck, back the camper up again, and start all over......minus one stabilizer.

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PS: often, neighbors or friends will start a conversation with you while you are setting up or preparing to leave. Because it's a routine, be polite and ask them to give you a few minutes. After establishing your connection or position and completing your routine, resume the conversation. Breaking a routine is a recipe for damage.

Mike
Never truer words spoken, as this is RV gospel. I refuse to let any of my camping buddies help, as it messes the routine up. That was part of the problem above, as my friend had their ritual messed up. They had blown a head gasket on their truck pulling the camper up to the campground so they were already flustered.

I went and got their trailer, pulled it in, unhooked from it, and then went to set my trailer up. Another friend went over and started helping them set up camp, and the next thing you hear, is yelling, then BAM. I looked over and saw the damage was done. It was caused by getting in a hurry and too many helpers....messing up the routine as Mike said.

The diplomatic way to avoid having your routine messed up, and still allowing your friends to help (but don't tell them the truth)........is to give them a spray bottle of water or similar. Tell them you need em to spray the whole perimeter of your camp area with this special campground approved formula, to keep ants away. If you see ants later, you can always blame the helper for doing a bad job. They may not be so volunteering next go around. LOL
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