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Old 08-01-2021, 07:08 AM   #1
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Question about Water Heater/Pump; 2017 Roo 233s

Hello,

I am new to RVing. Recently purchased a 2017 Rockwood Roo 233S, which was lightly used previously. It has mostly sat. Overall everything seems to be in good condition. Picked it up 2 days ago.

I plugged into the generator, and into a water hose to the city water connection. I cannot figure out how to make the water heater work or the water pump.

When we picked it up it was still winterized and had antifreeze. I am able to flush out the antifreeze using the cold water. When I turn on the hot water spigot nothing comes out even when hooked up to city water. The seller showed me a valve under the front bunk, which I switched as he instructed. It does not seem that there is any water going through to the water heater. Is there a second valve that I need to switch to fill up the water heater? I briefly turned it on and it seems like it is working based on the generator using more power, I turned off after a couple of seconds.

The other issue is that when I turn on the water pump nothing happens. It looks like there may be a fuse, it was flickering so I am wondering if that is the issue, however I did not know if there was also another valve I needed to switch after dewinterizing. I did fill out the water tank about a third full and that did not change it. Using the city water supply the cold water works fine and seems to have a normal pressure. I am assuming that I only need to use the water pump, when running off of the water tank?

I have not done a whole lot of troubleshooting so far, but I wanted to ask to see if there was something obvious I was not doing correctly. I can certainly ask the seller, but I figured I'd try to look into it first.

Thanks!
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:15 AM   #2
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I briefly turned it on and it seems like it is working based on the generator using more power, I turned off after a couple of seconds.
Welcome to the forum. If you can take a picture or two of the valves behind the heater and post them here, that would really help.

Hopefully your water heater is full of water because, if Iím understanding you right, you turned the power on to the water heater. If there was no water in the tank, you burned-up the heating element.

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Old 08-01-2021, 07:17 AM   #3
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I donít have your trl, but I would check for a bypass valve/ handle. It basically cuts off water from going into the hotwater heater when winterized. If your hooked up to city water you shouldnít need and some would say myself including that running the water pump is bad. That said on my previous two trls water pump switch was I. The bathroom on the same panel as my tank and battery monitors . The hot water switch on my last one was next to the panel canít recall where it was on my first
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:03 AM   #4
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Any way to plug into a real outlet not a generator? You may need AC power for a while to sort this out. And your battery is no doubt dead beyond any chance of revival. Several things in the trailer require 12vDC and the converter in the power panel will provide that if connected to shorepower.

The water heater should have been bypassed if the trailer was properly winterized. Various valve arrangements that are not hard to figure out by examination. The water flows in the direction of the valve handle. Hot and cold should point to their pipes and any cross-valve should be closed. Once you see it it should be nearly obvious. My system has one (1) valve and is dirt simple. Not sure why there are complicated 3-valve systems.

Hopefully the unnecessary antifreeze was pumped right out of a gallon jug via a T-valve at the water pump intake. The pump will not feed from the tank unless this valve is changed to the other setting. Water flows in the direction of the valve handle. Tasteless antifreeze takes a lot of water to get rid of the taste. If it was put in the water filter it's trash so replace it. If it was put in the fresh water tank be prepared for lots of flushing.

Water heater is propane/110vAC. Needs water in it -- get the valves set. Water heater AC switch (perhaps) on a panel inside, a switch on the outside of the heater itself, and a circuit breaker in the power panel. All need to be On to electrically heat the water. Propane is self-lighting with a switch and indicator light inside. When my Roo was new I thought it only had propane until I found the outside switch which was safety clipped Off.

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Old 08-01-2021, 08:34 AM   #5
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Any way to plug into a real outlet not a generator? You may need AC power for a while to sort this out. And your battery is no doubt dead beyond any chance of revival. Several things in the trailer require 12vDC and the converter in the power panel will provide that if connected to shorepower.

The water heater should have been bypassed if the trailer was properly winterized. Various valve arrangements that are not hard to figure out by examination. The water flows in the direction of the valve handle. Hot and cold should point to their pipes and any cross-valve should be closed. Once you see it it should be nearly obvious. My system has one (1) valve and is dirt simple. Not sure why there are complicated 3-valve systems.

Hopefully the unnecessary antifreeze was pumped right out of a gallon jug via a T-valve at the water pump intake. The pump will not feed from the tank unless this valve is changed to the other setting. Water flows in the direction of the valve handle. Tasteless antifreeze takes a lot of water to get rid of the taste. If it was put in the water filter it's trash so replace it. If it was put in the fresh water tank be prepared for lots of flushing.

Water heater is propane/110vAC. Needs water in it -- get the valves set. Water heater AC switch (perhaps) on a panel inside, a switch on the outside of the heater itself, and a circuit breaker in the power panel. All need to be On to electrically heat the water. Propane is self-lighting with a switch and indicator light inside. When my Roo was new I thought it only had propane until I found the outside switch which was safety clipped Off.

-- Chuck
Thanks for your reply (and those above). I can hook it up to a standard house outlet, just haven't done it yet. As far as the battery goes, it seems decent. I can use the power jack and lights while hooked up to nothing but the battery. When I look online, it seems like most tanks have 3 valves adjacent to the tank itself, as opposed to the one bypass valve I was shown under the front bunk. It seems like the heater is getting power, but not water to it, I only had the heater on long enough to hear a change in the generator. I would think that even if its not heating, water should still come out of the hot faucet?

I don't think the water pump is getting any power. With it switched on it doesn't make any noise. I am going to try and check the voltage and replace the fuse as some other posts had suggested. I tried it with just water in the tank and the city water disconnected. I would assume that if its hooked up to city water, that should fill the tank without the pump? I am gonna try working on it this weekend and I'll get some pictures if I can't sort it out.
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:48 AM   #6
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Since you stated you are new, then this thread may help. It has lots of info for new RV'ers. I would read the "No Hot Water" thread there. it will explain the winterization valves and positions for many of the different combinations you might encounter.


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ts-157524.html


If you can show up pics from behind your water heater of the lines/valves, we can get you sorted out quickly, and no guess work on your part. I have a feeling you may be seeing the pump valve for antifreeze suction and not the water heater valve(s).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Aonyx View Post
I don't think the water pump is getting any power. With it switched on it doesn't make any noise. I am going to try and check the voltage and replace the fuse as some other posts had suggested. I tried it with just water in the tank and the city water disconnected. I would assume that if its hooked up to city water, that should fill the tank without the pump? I am gonna try working on it this weekend and I'll get some pictures if I can't sort it out.

When you are connected to city water via the city water connection (pressure fill), it does NOT fill the fresh water tank. It is just a direct connection to your water lines/taps inside the RV. You will NOT use the pump when connected to city water.


Now after you can fill the freshwater tank (utilizing the freshwater tank fill/gravity fill)and not connected to city water connection....then you turn on your RV pump switch. This will pressurize the system and pull water from the onboard tank. The pump will cycle on/off as necessary to maintain pressure, as long is it's switch is on.


EDIT: This video may help


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Old 08-01-2021, 08:57 AM   #7
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Question about Water Heater/Pump; 2017 Roo 233s

If you turned the hot water heater on without any water in itÖyouíre element inside will be fried. Ask me how I know?
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Old 08-01-2021, 09:25 AM   #8
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I added a video to post #6 above that may help
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Old 08-01-2021, 09:59 AM   #9
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If you fried the water heating element don't fret as it is in stock at every RV dealer -- known as a "high demand" part -- and we know why. It's also a common hardware store part as well so no need to pay RV-prices. Flush out the tank if this happened. Usually removing the anode -- and standing back -- will do this.

Depending how the valves are set it's possible no water comes out of the Hot side. Get the valves sorted out first.

The water pump will run until the system is pressurized and then stop. If the city water connection (white hose to your house) is on the system is pressurized so the pump won't run. As noted the fresh water tank is a hose-fill system and not connected to the fresh water supply for fill.

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Old 08-01-2021, 03:24 PM   #10
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Hmm...

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Water heater is propane/110vAC. Needs water in it -- get the valves set. Water heater AC switch (perhaps) on a panel inside, a switch on the outside of the heater itself, and a circuit breaker in the power panel. All need to be On to electrically heat the water. Propane is self-lighting with a switch and indicator light inside. When my Roo was new I thought it only had propane until I found the outside switch which was safety clipped Off.

-- Chuck
The sentence in RED is not correct for all the installations I've seen. More typically, the outside switch AND the circuit breaker must be on to heat electrically. The inside switch (often with red indicator) must be on to heat with propane. If you turn on all three, you will heat with both which gives faster recovery. We don't use much hot water so we don't turn both on at once.
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Old 08-01-2021, 06:09 PM   #11
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Might be different in a park model but this is a Roo hybrid which may not have an electric water heater switch inside -- but it it does it has to be on. That would be #1. #2 is the circuit breaker in the power center. #3 is the switch in the lower left corner outside. All (could be two or three) need to be on to electrically heat water.

There is a separate switch for the propane mode that doesn't need to be on although it can be.

-- Chuck
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Old 08-02-2021, 08:02 AM   #12
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Might be different in a park model but this is a Roo hybrid which may not have an electric water heater switch inside -- but it it does it has to be on. That would be #1. #2 is the circuit breaker in the power center. #3 is the switch in the lower left corner outside. All (could be two or three) need to be on to electrically heat water.

There is a separate switch for the propane mode that doesn't need to be on although it can be.

-- Chuck
The later model Rooís have 2 switches for the electric water heater: one on the outside on the heater, one inside on the switch panel.

OP, sounds like your water heater is bypassed. If itís like my Ď19, youíll have 3 valves, 2 to bypass the heater, one for the winterizing port. The winterizing port should be in the ďoffĒ position (perpendicular to the water line) and the heater knobs (input and output valves) shoukd be turned in line with the water lines.
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Old 08-02-2021, 08:23 AM   #13
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Thanks for all of the replies!

I ordered a new heating element in case I fried it. The issue isn't that the heater isn't getting electricity, its that it isn't getting water. I am guessing there is another valve that I need to switch.
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Old 08-02-2021, 09:35 AM   #14
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Thanks for all of the replies!

I ordered a new heating element in case I fried it. The issue isn't that the heater isn't getting electricity, its that it isn't getting water. I am guessing there is another valve that I need to switch.
Post pictures of the valves and we can help you with that.

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Old 08-02-2021, 10:43 AM   #15
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Thanks for all of the replies!

I ordered a new heating element in case I fried it. The issue isn't that the heater isn't getting electricity, its that it isn't getting water. I am guessing there is another valve that I need to switch.

A bit of information I picked up at the Forest River Rally a couple years ago. The electric heating element on recent (and your 2017 qualifies) trailers will not burn out immediately if there is no water in the tank. It takes about 20 minutes. If you make the mistake, turn it back off and let it cool down - at least an hour. Adding cold water to a hot element will cause it to fail due to the thermal shock.


In my mind, the best way to know that there is water in the tank is to open the pressure relief valve for a second. When filling the tank, I open the valve until water flows out.
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Old 08-06-2021, 08:43 AM   #16
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Just as a follow up.

The water pump works now. The issue was a bad fuse. It basically disintegrated when I took it out. I replaced it and bam it works just fine.

There were three valves for the water heater that needed to be opened for it to fill up. I ran it on Propane and it works just fine now. I havent tried running it on electricity. I had to access them through the storage compartment adjacent to the water heater behind a thin piece of wood. The anode looked like a piece of rock candy, so I am assuming that needs replacement as well.

Thanks all!
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Old 08-06-2021, 09:25 AM   #17
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Anode is probably fine. There are diagrams on line and in the forum. The Anode is sacrificial and designed to degrade. All depends on your water. I'm sure I've replaced mine one (1) time in the past 15 seasons. I inspect it annually when I drain the hot water tank for winter storage.

I'll repeat my caution regarding opening the pressure relief valve for any reason. These have been known to not reseal. No problem if you have a spare but no one does. Regardless do not open it when filling the water heater or you can eliminate the required air pocket at the top of the tank. Lack of this pocket can cause the relief valve to dribble.

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Old 08-06-2021, 10:21 AM   #18
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I'll repeat my caution regarding opening the pressure relief valve for any reason. These have been known to not reseal.
They will almost always reseal with just a slight tap on the head of the stem with a pair of Channellocks or whatever else you can get in there. Iíve done it hundreds of times.

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Old 08-06-2021, 12:02 PM   #19
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It's the times they don't that's the problem... And ya still need that air pocket. Opening the valve is completely unnecessary.

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Old 08-07-2021, 08:51 PM   #20
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It's the times they don't that's the problem... And ya still need that air pocket. Opening the valve is completely unnecessary.

-- Chuck
My understanding is that pressure relief valves need to be tested periodically. Issue is that minerals can build up in the valve and prevent them from opening when needed. Having a leak will be annoying, having a seized valve can be catastrophic. Lots of sites on the net giving instructions on how to test. You did see one of the Myth Busters episodes where they purposely blow up a residential water heater? Launches like a rocket and can go thru a homes roof. Not sure how an RV heater would react.
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