Replacing a bunk end seal

[mlawler506]

I applied the J channel that Kennyairport suggested. I tightened the roto vises, but the passenger side vise won't rotate twice to tighten. I still have a gap where it is easy to slide a business card, so I will probably have to replace the bunk end seal.

The self adhesive J channel can be used to affix children or adults to the side of the camper. It is very, very sticky. It will not blow off the camper in a F5 tornado.

[ebcobra93]

Originally Posted by mlawler506

I applied the J channel that Kennyairport suggested. I tightened the roto vises, but the passenger side vise won't rotate twice to tighten. I still have a gap where it is easy to slide a business card, so I will probably have to replace the bunk end seal.

I have a hard time believing that your seals need to be replaced after only a couple of years. Is it possible that your bunk door is warped or bent (the roto-vice instructions mention that as a possible cause if adjustments don't fix the issue).

Why can't one side be rotated? Does it apply too much pressure?

[mlawler506]

Ebcobra93,

The vice on the passenger side would only rotate 1 turn. Trying to rotate a 2nd time, causes stress on the upper portion that would break the upper mechanism if I pushed it.
A variable is that the dealer "replaced " the seal under warranty. Did they use the correct part? Who knows.

So, until I can replace the rear bunk end seal, I will have the trailer nose down to have the water run toward the front which does not leak and also has a brand spanking new J channel as insurance.

[ebcobra93]

The dealer may have already tightened the latches as well. Definitely don't want to overdo it.

[mlawler506]

One additional thing that I have done is a little weird. I wound a few rubber bands around the part that the roto vise grips. My hope is that this adds some extra pressure to close the bunk end tighter. I am going to have to check the clearances to see if the prior gap has been eliminated. It is only a temporary measure because the rubber bands will deteriorate.

[Vern]

Originally Posted by mlawler506

I applied the J channel that Kennyairport suggested. I tightened the roto vises, but the passenger side vise won't rotate twice to tighten. I still have a gap where it is easy to slide a business card, so I will probably have to replace the bunk end seal.

The self adhesive J channel can be used to affix children or adults to the side of the camper. It is very, very sticky. It will not blow off the camper in a F5 tornado.

While we wait to hear the results after you replace the bunk end seal, can you post a photo of the J channel "gutter" you added? Thanks, and good luck.

[mlawler506]

Trim-Lok Drip Rail – White, PVC Plastic Rain Gutter for Cars, Vans, and RVs – Installs with Durable 3M Tape – 1/2” Height, 25’ Length
#1 New Release

Sold on Amazon for around $45 . The 3M tape is part of the item. I figure the link will give you a chance to have better resolution in viewing. Really, really sticky stuff.

[mlawler506]

Trim-Lok Drip Rail - White, PVC Plastic Rain Gutter for Cars, Vans, and RVs - Install... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJRH19Y..._GjIXcjtGwCynP

[Vern]

Originally Posted by mlawler506

Trim-Lok Drip Rail - White, PVC Plastic Rain Gutter for Cars, Vans, and RVs - Install... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJRH19Y..._GjIXcjtGwCynP

Looks like a good product.

[mlawler506]

Well, my Rube Goldberg aka Redneck solution to the bunk end seal may work. I just checked the seal and it appears ro be tight.

The solution: For those with the Roto Vise locking mechanism, putting some rubber bands on the post that the lock grips will increase the closing pressure. I was forced to come up with this method because I could not adjust my Roto-Vise locks any tighter. Admittedly, this solution will only last as long as the rubber bands, but it is certainly cost effective if it truly works. Naturally, fair weather is forecasted for my area until the middle of next week. So, I will see how a real world test plays out.

Replacing the rubber bands can easily be done when the bunk is open.

[mlawler506]

Update on the J-channel:

It turns out the super sticky J channel won't stay on the camper. $50 bucks wasted.

[rsdata]

Admittedly, this solution will only last as long as the rubber bands

why not try wrapping cheap electrical tape around the post? Enough wraps to get it thick enough, then finish with a dab of super glue to hold the cut end, which will surely unwrap otherwise.

Update on the J-channel:

It turns out the super sticky J channel won't stay on the camper. $50 bucks wasted.

buy a roll of Eternabond tape... you can use it to seal anything on the camper,
see my thread here: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nce-90060.html

and I bet it will also hold the j-channel indefinitely...

anything with glue will deteriorate in the sun, which is why I mentioned super glue above... BUT the Eternabond is a sticky butyl rubber like substance that maintains contact in the sun and does not slide when it gets warm...

Another thing you could try is to go to hardware store and purchase some short small wood screws... maybe like a #6 (9/64" wide) and only 3/8" long... drill some pilot holes thru the j channel using a 9/64" drill bit , then using a drill size a 1/16" smaller (5/32" bit) than the screw width, slightly drill your fiberglass outer wall above the bunk and screw in the J-channel... Just screw it tight enough to get the head next to the J-channel... DO NOT screw it TIGHT as it will just strip the thin fiberglass outer wall... I would suggest a screw about 6 inches from each end and only 1 in the middle which should hold it up. Maybe just a small dab of caulk in the pilot hole before you screw in the tiny screw and maybe a very small bead on the back of the J-channel to get a water-tight bond to the trailer. Get brass or SS to prevent rusting. You could use Eternabond over the screw heads also which will seal them.

just my 2 cents...

PS I did use two small screws like I am suggesting to hold a small receiver on the outside wall to control my LED strip light under my awning, so I know that this will work. Been there for 2 years now.

[RooToo]

I tried to secure my J channel gutters initially with double sided super duper tape, but the tape failed on me after a month or so. So after cleaning the tape adhesive, I applied a clear silicone adhesive to the gutters and reposition them back on my Roo 233S, and this is working great for me. I wouldn't go without gutters.
Just my thoughts
happy camping
RooToo

[kennyairport]

Originally Posted by mlawler506

Update on the J-channel:

It turns out the super sticky J channel won't stay on the camper. $50 bucks wasted.

mines been over a year, no issues. sorry it did not work for you.

[mlawler506]

Well, my caveman approach (listed earlier)with the rubber bands on the post , held the bunk end tighter and no water got in. So, the J-channel experiment did not work out, but I will need to utilize some of the suggestions that were provided by contributors to this article.