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Old 03-19-2022, 07:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
Just be aware that your trailer has no shocks. So a bike rack on the rear bumper, holding the bikes out and away, from the trailer, will be bouncing. The physics that occur, will be a levering back and down on the bumper. This constant motion may weaken the bumper welds, UNLESS that receiver is welded and braced to the frame and not just the bumper.
This will be much worse with the much heavier ebikes.
My two bikes are worth about $5k and would never put them on the back of the trailer, where I can't see them.
What's with all the hand wrigging about the bumper? It's a factory installed, frame mounted, 300 pound rated hitch. The trailer has torsion axles with rubber suspension (about as soft a ride as you can get), and factory installed rear camera prep if you want to keep a eye on what is back there.

This isn't your ( or my) Roo of a few years ago. I'd never put anything on the back of mine and would tell anybody who asked not to do it.

But in this case, I would say if FR gave you factory "accessory hitch" rated for 300 lbs, use it within its rating. I think the OP is getting advice that's aimed at trailers that were not designed like the newer models.

Now, if somebody wants chime in with " can I use that hitch to double tow my golf cart?" we could really liven up the discussion
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Old 03-19-2022, 02:24 PM   #22
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I don't think it's hand wringing, I think it's the conservative nature of this bunch and our general looking out for each other.

Personally, I'd be pretty hesitant to (1) put so much weight on the rear mount - especially if it's offset by a bikerack (increasing the lever arm of the weight); (2) especially back there (as in, the single worst place to add additional weight if you're seeking to reduce trailer sway/wag).

The 300lb rating for the rear mount (while frame mounted) is likely AT the mount end. Adding ~200lbs, and then offsetting by the width and height of the loaded bikerack's center of gravity will multiple the force that the deadweight has by the distance from the COG (where the weight is on the rack) to the mount. I'm going to guestimate that the COG is going to be a foot out and a foot up, putting the leverarm at 1.4'

1.4' x 200lbs = 282.8 ft lbs of force.

It's not straight out, though, so - in this case - gravity will be helpful (won't be as harmful) until the trailer starts to see some up and down motion (which will increase the force of the load. At least the rack is a low/platform type, which will keep forces somewhat tamed, as opposed to the hanging type that are more favored for bicycles.

200lbs out back isn't the best place to mount it, and you will be reducing your weight back there by migrating the spare tire (somewhat reducing the polar moment of inertia that is so happy to make the trailer sway). But still, it gives me pause.

WV_Mountaineer, after looking at all the above, I'd suggest you pack the bikes, folded, in the truck bed and leave the trailer tire where you have it. Alt: load them in the body of the trailer over the axles. You might also check your truck's payload sticker and do some quick math to make sure you're still within spec. SEEMS LIKE YOU ARE, just want to doublecheck.

Your Roo is going to be a lot of fun, so glad you checked in here and are trying to be careful. As you gain experience, you'll learn the impact and effects of what loading choices you make have on the trailer. No matter what, the old adage is always true: slowing down reduces the problems that are magnified by speed.

I hope to see a lot more of you around the boards, friend!



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Old 03-27-2022, 11:23 AM   #23
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a bit of outside the box thinking... i installed a 2" receiver frame mounted hitch on the front of my truck to use a bike rack.

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