Roo 23ss front bunk rotten, anyone going by Indiana?😀

[Millhouse]

Hi everyone thx for the great forum, lots of good info here. I just bought a 2009 roo 23ss. The trailer is in excellent shape, very solid, no signs of water damage anywhere. Previous owners took good care of it. Only one issue that I was aware of when I bought it. The front bunk door is water logged like many others. I opened it up today and the front wood facing outside is more like a carpet now. It looks like it leaked from the front, maybe hinges? Then went down and wicked back up the inside wood.

Now I've rebuilt walls roofs etc on trailers and it can be done but is a pain in the *****.

$412 for a new complete for from Rockwood is a good price but becomes double that when imported to Canada.

Anyone trucking by there I could pay to pick up a door or any other owners want to do a bulk buy. I'd drive down and back to pick up a few doors no problem.

Ideas anyone? Thx

[SeaDog]

I hope you get someone to take you up on your offer

[Millhouse]

Big shout out to crusader 816 who happened to have a bunk door collecting dust and let me have it for a great price, thx again.

Now any Canadian's trying this I'll break down my experience for future reference if anyone cares.

Paid for door, now shipping, ok Forest River uses YRC so logical choice right.

Got my quote for 185 shipping via internet, yrc website to the Mississauga warehouse for me to pick up. I decided I was going to self clear it to save The Brokerage fees. Keep in mind everything is in USD and our dollar is very weak.

All set, Crusader 8:16 was nice enough to drop it off at YRC where he lives and it was on its way.

It arrived in Mississauga and I was notified to come pick it up. I went to customs with my paperwork which is basically a bill of lading and an invoice from YRC. Paid a couple dollars taxes. Took my paperwork upstairs where I was informed that there was a $85 Warehouse fee, of course right 😡 paid my warehouse fee and then took my paperwork to the warehouse.

Now here's it gets interesting, I watched as the workers drove the forklifts around slamming them into different products and noticed that there was a huge section of damaged products. Basically you have to crate this and then crate that inside of another crate to protect it otherwise these guys were bound to destroy anything.

So finally here comes my door dragging down the warehouse floor by the forklift all the sides bent and damaged ground off there was a rusty nail sticking out of it , interior side. Thank God it did not poke through to the exterior skin. You can see the two forklift fork marks from the guy that slammed the forklift into it. They also lost the seals that came with the door from crusader. Don't know where those went they must been ripped off somewhere.

Had no choice but to take it, otherwise if I refused delivery I'd be out a door for the entire summer. I'm still going to have to put in a claim and fill out of paperwork. They took pictures, I took pictures and I'll fill out the online form soon enough I have 120 days to put in a claim. My experience be very careful with shipping companies even some of the truck drivers there were making comments at how poorly these guys are handling product.

Brought it home in the truck spent a few days pounding all the metal back into shape where it should be and finally got it mounted up.

The doors sits a little differently than the old one because Forest River decided to put the hinge in a different location so just slightly off however of course it's still better than a rotten door.

Mounted all the hardware was pretty pissed off to see that the hinge latches actually just screw into styrofoam so they're still kind of loose I'll have to Bolt them straight through.

Decided that I would do a mod myself and put some vinyl over top of the top hinges to prevent water from pooling and leaking down have not tried it yet just put it on. Basically the same idea as putting the pipe over top.

With the cost of the door the cost of the shipping the warehouse fee the driving to the warehouse to pick it up in the end I did yes save money however for the amount of work/headache I'd recommend just making a little vacation out of it and driving down Indiana and picking up a door yourself.

For any other Canadian that wants to give this a try if you need a hand with paperwork I'm pretty good at it now.

[Millhouse]

It's been raining all day. So far the vinyl is keeping the water away from the top seal. All dry inside, I temporarily put some buytl tape on the bottom hinge until the weather holds up to put some vinyl there also. I'm going to silicone it on the top and let the bottom hang over the hinge so it can move when the bed is opened. Also I'm replacing all the seals, trying to mod a companies piss poor design is not cool. Especially when I see people with brand new 20 grand + trailers leaking.

[Crusader 816]

Hey Millhouse. It looks good. I would definitely do the same thing over the bottom hinge with the vinyl because I think that's where these doors are so poorly designed. There is nothing from keeping the water out of the hinge area. I modified a garage door seal and applied it to the door with clear silicone and it stuck to the door with no problems.

[Crusader 816]

I hope you get it done soon so you can get out and camp

[Millhouse]

While went out in maiden voyage for the weekend. Overall good. Way better then my old pop up.

Few issues nothing new I know

1-oem stabilizer Jack's are garbage
2-need slide topper
3-rear bunk leaked at top seal closed on way home during major pour, not much. (Complete set new seals on the way)
4-oem fresh water tank is small
5-can't believe how many various screws they have into styrofoam, what's that going to hold?
5-space for tv, don't know if they make TV's that small anymore.

Still working the bugs out but I can see why it's a popular floor plan, packs alot into a compact space.

Side note anyone ever try these auto flip door seals to cover the top seal? Looks promising for a mod to cover the seal.

[Millhouse]

Oh and by the way a few dollars of cheap vinyl kept all the water out of the front bunk during a huge down pour driving. Unreal design from the manufacturer. Should be like a car door then never be any problems

[Crusader 816]

Well doesn't sound to bad of a first time out. Check your clearance lights above rear bunk to see if they are caulked and sealed. When mine leaked in the rear it was the lights. I like the seal you are using up front looks like it will work well. Good to see you are able to get out and use it.

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by Crusader 816

Well doesn't sound to bad of a first time out. Check your clearance lights above rear bunk to see if they are caulked and sealed. When mine leaked in the rear it was the lights. I like the seal you are using up front looks like it will work well. Good to see you are able to get out and use it.

I'm a bit of a nut but a little water will totally destroy a trailer so I have resealed the entire trailer top to bottom, everything all new silcone. Some exterior items I removed, put on new buytl tape and sealed. Also went crazy on the roof, 11 tubes of dicor lap sealant, I covered all the oem sealant. No one has ever done it from new so it was due, lucky it was all in good shape still.

Pick up my all new door seals this Wednesday, the interior ones and ones for the outer door.

Oh and adding my cheap vinyl to the rear also.

If this thing leaks after all this then it's definitely not my fault.

[bikendan]

Well, I owned my 2007 23SS for 10 1/2 years and never had bunk doors leaks.
Did have the front bunk doors seals replaced with the 2009 model seals and they never leaked either.
The only water leak was from a bad toilet seal.

I took good care of it. The interior was in super shape and the canvas looked almost new still.

Only the peeling outside decals looked bad.

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Well, I owned my 2007 23SS for 10 1/2 years and never had bunk doors leaks.
Did have the front bunk doors seals replaced with the 2009 model seals and they never leaked either.
The only water leak was from a bad toilet seal.

I took good care of it. The interior was in super shape and the canvas looked almost new still.

Only the peeling outside decals looked bad.

Guess u got a good one. I think with all the flexing, movement, some poor workmanship added in and someone that has ignored the seals since new (previous owners) something is bound to get in there.

I have to add I see a few of these around and I can tell the front door is rotten but the owners have no clue. I noticed that the lower corners where the metal takes a 90 degree turn alot of the seams are open (caulking pulled apart) and will allow water in easily.

[bikendan]

I was pretty fastidious with my bunk doors.
I was always checking them for water and delam and seal conditions.
I knew that these were the weak spots of any hybrid.
Luckily, I was able to keep it at home for those years.

[Crusader 816]

Well sounds like you should be good to go with the new seals since you have sealed up the rest . Best of luck

[Millhouse]

So how is this supposed to keep the water out? Especially on the top seal.
I'm replacing all the screws with flat heads to get a better seal, heck most are in sideways. Think the guys at the factory we're drunk when putting them in.

[Crusader 816]

Lol... Ya I agree. I did the same and put all stainless in.

[Millhouse]

Front bunk ready to go, put on new Velcro added the buttons on the front outside. Should mention just waiting for my seals tomorrow before I screw down that rubber gasket.

I know this has been discussed many times but anyone try some type of seals this picture, or better yet can u past yours so I can see what u did. I don't even want a drop off water in there after I'm done.

[jps4jeep]

I have a question for you. I have to replace the side bunk end on my 2010 233S and I already bought the door from forest river. My price was well below what you were quoted, but I believe this bed end is smaller so that might be the reason why. ANY-WHO... There is a small black seal at the base of my doors and in my preliminary inspection before I tear it apart I do not see a clear or easy way to removing this seal from the door, did you have a similar seal and if so, any recommendations?

As mentioned here, it is my belief that most of the water damage on mine was caused by water whicking up into the bottom of the door via capillary action past the bottom hinge. My solution is I got some UMHD plastic and some flexible vinyl milled into the back side to do something similar to what you have on the top of your door but permanently attached, sealed and covering the hinge.

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by jps4jeep

I have a question for you. I have to replace the side bunk end on my 2010 233S and I already bought the door from forest river. My price was well below what you were quoted, but I believe this bed end is smaller so that might be the reason why. ANY-WHO... There is a small black seal at the base of my doors and in my preliminary inspection before I tear it apart I do not see a clear or easy way to removing this seal from the door, did you have a similar seal and if so, any recommendations?

As mentioned here, it is my belief that most of the water damage on mine was caused by water whicking up into the bottom of the door via capillary action past the bottom hinge. My solution is I got some UMHD plastic and some flexible vinyl milled into the back side to do something similar to what you have on the top of your door but permanently attached, sealed and covering the hinge.

What seal? The rubber seal along the bottom? Like the one in my picture where i didn't reattach it yet? If so it is built into the door and not removed, only removed from under the cabinet, first remove 2x4 covering it then remove the staples. Rubber seal is free.

[jps4jeep]

Thanks, I appreciate the response!