Roo Latch System Problems

[zoomer32ca]

This is our second summer with our 2014 Roo. We have had a number of problems with our bunkends leaking, had the front bunkend replaced at the end of the summer and now problems with the latch system.

The bottom of the latch system at the handle literally exploded today when trying to close the bunk. As you know, it is a plastic system that is unlikely to last more than a few seasons. The system is held together by little 1/2 inch rivet like things that are pressed into the plastic. (I wish I could show you a picture of one, but mine shot out like bullets when the system came apart).



Thought for a second about calling my dealer, but from my experience they are either incapable or unwilling to do quality work. I came up with a solution that will undoubtedly outlast the rivet system.

I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled through the handle. I drilled part way from both sides as there is a collar on both sides that the arms fit into (did not want to damage the collar). There is only about an 1/8 - 1/4 inch of plastic to go through because of the holes for the rivets. I purchased #4-32 x 1 1/2 inch stainless steel machine screws and nuts and installed them straight through. I clipped the end of the screw, filed it down flush and added a little silicon to help hold the nut in place.

This happened in my driveway, if we had been camping and packing up there is no way we would have been able to hold the door closed. I purchased enough materials to do all the latches as they break. Will carry all the tools to make this repair anywhere.

I have already had to push one of the rivets in the top of the mechanism back into place. I think the same solution would work for the top three rivets just with shorter screws.

[Roocrew1]

So sorry for those issues. I've been waiting to see such pictures appear. When I first set eyes on those latches at an rv show, I screamed to myself ... NO!! Thanks for posting and warning others to be prepared for potential campground repairs. (As we should anyway...)

[Jimandchris]

Great Fix! Wonder if this should be a sticky since many of us will likely be doing the same thing next year to ours.

[Grizzlygibbs]

I wonder if a simple coarse thread screw with a star washer would work as well. Would probably be a little easier to drive a screw than to drill out a hole and insert bolt and nut, then file nut. Just thinking about the "emergency get home kit."

[zoomer32ca]

Originally Posted by Grizzlygibbs

I wonder if a simple coarse thread screw with a star washer would work as well. Would probably be a little easier to drive a screw than to drill out a hole and insert bolt and nut, then file nut. Just thinking about the "emergency get home kit."

I would think in an emergency that would be a good fix. I did not want to enlarge the original hole that the rivets went into. A 1/8 inch bit was prefect. That is not unlike what these rivets like things look like, not so much like thread but spiralled that grabs the plastic. I was looking for a more long term solution. Total time to do fix about 10 mins, after purchasing materials.

[force]

Sorry to hear... You'd expect new designs to be better than old, but not when they use questionable materials.

And not to rub it in but I'm suddenly glad I have a 2013 Roo with the older style latches. I carry a 4' ladder as it is so don't have any trouble reaching them.

[Grizzlygibbs]

Originally Posted by zoomer32ca

I would think in an emergency that would be a good fix. I did not want to enlarge the original hole that the rivets went into. A 1/8 inch bit was prefect. That is not unlike what these rivets like things look like, not so much like thread but spiralled that grabs the plastic. I was looking for a more long term solution. Total time to do fix about 10 mins, after purchasing materials.

I do agree that this is a long term fix. Mine have popped out before an I just crimped them back on. I just do not wanti have to replace them all until the need arises or I find more that constantly pop out. I typically do not carry a drill or bits when camping. Good write up and I will definitely get some as spares for when I am home.

[rockfordroo]

I typically do not carry a drill or bits when camping.

I carry a cordless drill anyway to run down the stabilizers. Adding the bits was no big deal.

[Grizzlygibbs]

That is my 5 year old daughters job Rockfordroo. I wouldn't want to make it too easy on her! ;-)

[rockfordroo]

5 years old? You're a slave-driver!

(Probably keeps her busy and out of your hair, though!)

[RACKMAN]

[QUOTE=zoomer32ca;639326]This is our second summer with our 2014 Roo. We have had a number of problems with our bunkends leaking, had the front bunkend replaced at the end of the summer and now problems with the latch system.



The bottom of the latch system at the handle literally exploded today when trying to close the bunk. As you know, it is a plastic system that is unlikely to last more than a few seasons. The system is held together by little 1/2 inch rivet like things that are pressed into the plastic. (I wish I could show you a picture of one, but mine shot out like bullets when the system came apart).



Attachment 55805



Thought for a second about calling my dealer, but from my experience they are either incapable or unwilling to do quality work. I came up with a solution that will undoubtedly outlast the rivet system.



I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled through the handle. I drilled part way from both sides as there is a collar on both sides that the arms fit into (did not want to damage the collar). There is only about an 1/8 - 1/4 inch of plastic to go through because of the holes for the rivets. I purchased #4-32 x 1 1/2 inch stainless steel machine screws and nuts and installed them straight through. I clipped the end of the screw, filed it down flush and added a little silicon to help hold the nut in place.



This happened in my driveway, if we had been camping and packing up there is no way we would have been able to hold the door closed. I purchased enough materials to do all the latches as they break. Will carry all the tools to make this repair anywhere.



I have already had to push one of the rivets in the top of the mechanism back into place. I think the same solution would work for the top three rivets just with shorter screws.



Attachment 55810

Attachment 55811
Was there a reason you had to use silicone to try to keep the nut tight? Why couldn't you use a nylon lock nut?

[zoomer32ca]

[QUOTE=RACKMAN;640336]

Originally Posted by zoomer32ca

This is our second summer with our 2014 Roo. We have had a number of problems with our bunkends leaking, had the front bunkend replaced at the end of the summer and now problems with the latch system.



The bottom of the latch system at the handle literally exploded today when trying to close the bunk. As you know, it is a plastic system that is unlikely to last more than a few seasons. The system is held together by little 1/2 inch rivet like things that are pressed into the plastic. (I wish I could show you a picture of one, but mine shot out like bullets when the system came apart).



Attachment 55805



Thought for a second about calling my dealer, but from my experience they are either incapable or unwilling to do quality work. I came up with a solution that will undoubtedly outlast the rivet system.



I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled through the handle. I drilled part way from both sides as there is a collar on both sides that the arms fit into (did not want to damage the collar). There is only about an 1/8 - 1/4 inch of plastic to go through because of the holes for the rivets. I purchased #4-32 x 1 1/2 inch stainless steel machine screws and nuts and installed them straight through. I clipped the end of the screw, filed it down flush and added a little silicon to help hold the nut in place.



This happened in my driveway, if we had been camping and packing up there is no way we would have been able to hold the door closed. I purchased enough materials to do all the latches as they break. Will carry all the tools to make this repair anywhere.



I have already had to push one of the rivets in the top of the mechanism back into place. I think the same solution would work for the top three rivets just with shorter screws.



Attachment 55810

Attachment 55811
Was there a reason you had to use silicone to try to keep the nut tight? Why couldn't you use a nylon lock nut?

No reason, I originally planned on using lock nuts but could not find one in stainless steel at home hardware. So just to get me up and running for my camping trip the next day, I used the stainless steel nut that came with the #4-32 screws. I plan on changing it over to stainless steel nylon lock nuts.

I have considered being proactive changing over all the latches before they break.

[kpm]

Have you or do you know how to adjust the closing tension on the new latch system. Does anyone know if there is a how to guide?

Thanks,
Kip

Roo 2014 23ss

Originally Posted by zoomer32ca

This is our second summer with our 2014 Roo. We have had a number of problems with our bunkends leaking, had the front bunkend replaced at the end of the summer and now problems with the latch system.

The bottom of the latch system at the handle literally exploded today when trying to close the bunk. As you know, it is a plastic system that is unlikely to last more than a few seasons. The system is held together by little 1/2 inch rivet like things that are pressed into the plastic. (I wish I could show you a picture of one, but mine shot out like bullets when the system came apart).

Attachment 55805

Thought for a second about calling my dealer, but from my experience they are either incapable or unwilling to do quality work. I came up with a solution that will undoubtedly outlast the rivet system.

I used a 1/8 inch drill bit and drilled through the handle. I drilled part way from both sides as there is a collar on both sides that the arms fit into (did not want to damage the collar). There is only about an 1/8 - 1/4 inch of plastic to go through because of the holes for the rivets. I purchased #4-32 x 1 1/2 inch stainless steel machine screws and nuts and installed them straight through. I clipped the end of the screw, filed it down flush and added a little silicon to help hold the nut in place.

This happened in my driveway, if we had been camping and packing up there is no way we would have been able to hold the door closed. I purchased enough materials to do all the latches as they break. Will carry all the tools to make this repair anywhere.

I have already had to push one of the rivets in the top of the mechanism back into place. I think the same solution would work for the top three rivets just with shorter screws.

Attachment 55810
Attachment 55811

[zoomer32ca]

Originally Posted by kpm

Have you or do you know how to adjust the closing tension on the new latch system. Does anyone know if there is a how to guide?



Thanks,

Kip



Roo 2014 23ss

According to my dealer there is a little adjustment. After having them adjusted and examining them after, it looks like they simply removed the top of the system, lowered it and re-screwed it to the trailer. I know this because one was screwed back in place on an angle tilting out wards. When I removed it to secure it properly, I noticed the original screw holes that we're not sealed with silicon or caulking.

Others have suggested that you can remove the screws for the top of the mechanism and it will slide down on the bracket for adjustment. That is not the case, the screws holding the top mechanism are 2 inches long and secure the whole top of the system to the trailer.

After examining the system in detail the only way I can see to adjust them is to remove either the top or bottom thread the rod out and re- secure. There is very minimal adjustment because the top of the mechanism when the rod is forced upwards will stop itself or bottom out for lack of a better word. The only other way that I can see to put a little more closing pressure on the door is to build up the rounded pieces that are secured to the door itself.

I would be interested to hear if anyone else sees something different or has other thoughts.


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[kpm]

Originally Posted by zoomer32ca

According to my dealer there is a little adjustment. After having them adjusted and examining them after, it looks like they simply removed the top of the system, lowered it and re-screwed it to the trailer. I know this because one was screwed back in place on an angle tilting out wards. When I removed it to secure it properly, I noticed the original screw holes that we're not sealed with silicon or caulking.

Others have suggested that you can remove the screws for the top of the mechanism and it will slide down on the bracket for adjustment. That is not the case, the screws holding the top mechanism are 2 inches long and secure the whole top of the system to the trailer.

After examining the system in detail the only way I can see to adjust them is to remove either the top or bottom thread the rod out and re- secure. There is very minimal adjustment because the top of the mechanism when the rod is forced upwards will stop itself or bottom out for lack of a better word. The only other way that I can see to put a little more closing pressure on the door is to build up the rounded pieces that are secured to the door itself.

I would be interested to hear if anyone else sees something different or has other thoughts.


Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums

Thanks for the info. You are right about them having to remove the assembly. The tech told me that he had to remove it in order to adjust it. I believed him on this one because there were grease stains all over my handles when I got it back
He told me he only did 1 turn to adjust so I'm assuming he did adjust some sort of screw.

[zoomer32ca]

Originally Posted by kpm

Thanks for the info. You are right about them having to remove the assembly. The tech told me that he had to remove it in order to adjust it. I believed him on this one because there were grease stains all over my handles when I got it back

He told me he only did 1 turn to adjust so I'm assuming he did adjust some sort of screw.

I think he is referring to one turn on the rod the connects the handle to the upper part of the mechanism. If it is lengthened it will put more closing pressure on the top of the mechanism. If it is lengthened to a certain point it will bottom out on itself.



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