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Old 01-22-2020, 04:04 PM   #1
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scissor jack mounting

I finally got the Steadyfast system mounted on the 233S. Seems like it is going to make a huge difference in the side to side wiggle. I noticed an improvement just with having the oversized landing pads. While I was under there playing I discovered that my stabilizer jacks are not centered directly in the middle of the i beams. they are offset a little on a small bracket that is welded to the ibeam. after setting the stabs down and raising the camper an inch or two I can see the side of the i beam bending up a bit. I am not trying to lift the wheels off the ground by no means. Shouldn't the the scissor jacks have been mounted as close to under the center of the i beam? the mounting bracket does have a piece that comes up and welds to the vertical part of the ibeam but this is about 3-4 inches in front of where the scissor jack mounts. Seems to me this would help create some of the trailer bounce with that piece flexing. Am I wrong on this?
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:13 PM   #2
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Keep in mind the stabilizers are for stabilizing not lifting the rig. What I do is put tension on the stabilizer and then tighten my steady fast and things are rock solid. If you are twisting the frame might be you are putting more pressure then you should on the jacks.
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Old 01-22-2020, 04:18 PM   #3
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The stabilizers are not meant to lift the rig, not even an inch or two. They are meant to be just snug. The mere fact that you're experience buckling demonstrates that.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:36 PM   #4
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ok say i didn't lift it an inch and its just snug. should I move the jacks so they are more centered under the i beam or just leave it alone because its not so critical where the jack ties into the frame?
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:50 PM   #5
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If you are not putting enough strain on the parts to cause them to bend I would leave it. Try snugging things up and securing your steady fast and see how it works on some longer trailers folks use the portable jack stands in front of the axles to stop the bounce
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:59 PM   #6
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You can, but I honestly don't think you'd gain all that much for your effort. It's sad, but those type stabilizers aren't built very strong. A few folks I know that have had those manual stabilizers on their rigs have removed them and replaced them with BAL Scissor Jacks mounted directly to the bottom of the I-beam. With the right capacity rating these type jacks are able to accomplish leveling and stability.

If you go that route, here are some ideas:

https://www.walmart.com/search/?cat_...+SCISSOR+JACKS

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:17 PM   #7
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thanks. I had thought about replacing these jacks because they just don't seem well built to me. but I figured I'd see how the steady fast works out first then maybe replace the jacks next year.
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:14 PM   #8
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technicalspectical-
I agree 100% that the stabilizers should have been located directly under the vertical portion of the I-beam for maximum stabilization and the oem scissor jacks are not very high quality. Any flex from the mount or the scissor jack transfers into moment in the trailer...to what degree? hard to say.

It's on my to do list to buy heavier duty scissor jacks and to center them under the vertical portion of the I-beam and even a 1/2" plate between the jack and i-beam using 4 bolts to secure them to the i-beam, an increased foot print can't hurt either.
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Old 10-25-2020, 02:56 PM   #9
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Has anyone ever mounted the scissor jacks on a 45ē angle on the rear ones. I have seen a few rigs that had them this way and I wondered if it improved stability.
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Old 10-25-2020, 03:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mch5jdm View Post
Has anyone ever mounted the scissor jacks on a 45ē angle on the rear ones. I have seen a few rigs that had them this way and I wondered if it improved stability.
My original equipment stabilizing jacks are installed at 45-degree angles, front and rear. Combined with the wheels, that creates 6 tangent segments to an ellipse. That has to be far more stable than having three in-line supports on each side.
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Old 10-25-2020, 04:09 PM   #11
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I'm changing my old rear electric stabilizers to scissor jacks that are rated 6,000 lbs per because through the years they have become troublesome to raise and lower and have repaired them twice so its time for them to go. My question is actually three fold - should I just cut the wires from the small motor to the switch for removal of the old jacks and what about welding the new jacks directly to the frame or use self tapping bolts?

What are most folks doing when they change out? Weld or drill holes and use self tapping bolts?

Thanks, Dave
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:14 PM   #12
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My original equipment stabilizing jacks are installed at 45-degree angles, front and rear. Combined with the wheels, that creates 6 tangent segments to an ellipse. That has to be far more stable than having three in-line supports on each side.


I agree it seems logical. I think come spring I am going to weld a plate that I can bolt at a 45.
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Old 10-25-2020, 07:56 PM   #13
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I agree it seems logical. I think come spring I am going to weld a plate that I can bolt at a 45.
Take a look at the steady fast system my rig is very solid with this system

SteadyFast: 5th Wheel and RV Trailer Stabilizer
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:36 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Volvodriver View Post
I'm changing my old rear electric stabilizers to scissor jacks that are rated 6,000 lbs per because through the years they have become troublesome to raise and lower and have repaired them twice so its time for them to go. My question is actually three fold - should I just cut the wires from the small motor to the switch for removal of the old jacks and what about welding the new jacks directly to the frame or use self tapping bolts?

What are most folks doing when they change out? Weld or drill holes and use self tapping bolts?

Thanks, Dave
Any drilling I do in my frame I try to through bolt if at all possible. If not I drill and tap. I do not use self tapping screws. If I need to tap, I use silicone on the screw to keep corrosion at bay. This and dielectric grease are the only places I will use silicone on a trailer.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:54 PM   #15
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gadget for mounting jacks

interesting:

SAVEAJACK scissor jack quick release ...

https://www.amazon.com/SAVEAJACK-sci...s%2C181&sr=8-2

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Old 10-27-2020, 01:36 PM   #16
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I had seen that to where the jacks are off the centerline of the frame, I would assume they did this to keep common frame parts and just weld on a plate. Even with the small amount of pressure the frame still moves. I have tried several things like the X-chocks and extra stabilizer jacks around the wheels and there was still a ton of movement. I have tried what I did in the picture below and it made a world of difference, and it was basically free as I had everything lying around. I used a 3' piece of 2x4 cut at a angle on each side and top was notched to fit in the frame. The ratchet strap tightens them up. I also found out if you have the older fold out steps to put a stabilizer under it and that cuts down on the movement. With the 233s having the bed and the slide on the one side there is quite a bit of over hung load that makes it difficult to cut the movement down.
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