Side to side leveling

[strat56]

Originally Posted by tomrob1161

A problem with side to side leveling, I guess as a result of the Torflex axle, which seems to give a softer ride for the trailer, but doesn't seem to support the trailer as well with the slides extended. You get the trailer level side to side, let out the slides then the side with the slides is lower. You have to plan ahead and have the slide side a little higher to compensate for it dropping after the slides are extended.

I noticed this as well. I usually make the slide side high by 1/8 to a 1/4 of the bubble on my level and that works well.

I cut a few inches off the low side of the levelers so they'd fit between my tires and always use 2.

[stugilmour]

We often park on sports fields for dog shows, and the organizers typically insist on plywood pads under the wheels, generators, etc. Have found two relatively short plywood pads very handy for going under the Lego blocks to prevent sinking. I store them on top of our aftermarket battery box with a couple of bungies.

Stu

[Dogpatch]

I use a two foot level in the doorway on the floor. I place it side to side and raise it to level. Whatever the distance is, multiply by 4 (for 8' width) and you'll end up with a pretty accurate measure for what to raise whichever side is low. I carry a couple of 3'-2x6 and some 1x4. Never cost me a thing. Once side to side done, I level across the door and use my electric levelers. The Boss tells me when I'm good. Level every time.

I've since added a couple of Scizzor jacks to place mid way to help with rock and roll.
All good.

The issue I see with the Anderson levelers is on grass and sinking. May not be an issue with a travel trailer, but at 15k, they wouldn't be much good and sink outta sight.

I may be old school, but I have no problem with blocking. Being a carpenter and having leveled buildings helps! LOL

[fella10]

Originally Posted by ben31

Depending on the weight of your trailer, you could use this:

BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

I used this, when I had a PopUp. It is rated at 1750lbs (total trailer weight of 3500lbs). They are fairly easy, don't take up a lot of room and can replace a stack of blocks and a set of chocks.

I love the BAL leveler, used it with our single axle Casita and even bought two for our dual axle Micro Lite 21DS,..... worked ok but the extra weight was a strain on the cordless drill when lifting, even with the two sharing the weight,..... am now sold on the Andersen leveler with our Micro Lite 25KS,..... link below shows an idea that we use for wife to pull the chocks out of the way when I take the weight off them, she can pull them from a safe distance and avoid any danger, then I can roll back off the Andersens,.... the eye bolts can be put in from either side, I do that the evening before we're going to leave the cg, the next morning, they're ready to be pulled at any time,........

[Old Eeyore]

Originally Posted by ben31

Depending on the weight of your trailer, you could use this:

BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

I used this, when I had a PopUp. It is rated at 1750lbs (total trailer weight of 3500lbs). They are fairly easy, don't take up a lot of room and can replace a stack of blocks and a set of chocks.

We've used these for years - first with the PUPs then a pair with the Roos. No issues so far. (Probably asking a lot of them on the 23IKSS but so far so good. Keeping the threads clean and lubed is essential.)

Put a clear elbow or straight adapter (whichever fits best) at either end of your hose and watch the output. Look for very slow or no flow, close the valve and put in your chemicals. It's not the end of the world if you don't get a perfectly empty/clean tank at every dump. But! DO use your grey tank to flush that hose!

I spend a little more time on the clean-out when we are on a full service site. (Flushing the tank and hose with fresh water.) But I don't want to spend any more time at the dump station than I have to. So I usually skip the extra flushes. Close is good enough.