The "hinge" on the step on my Roo broke. (see pic). it's the bottom fold-out stair.
I don't know much about rivets /riveting, but is that what this is and all that's
needed to repair? if so is it a standard rivet, or what kind of rivet is needed?
Or is this some special part that I need to go to the RV store to get?
Look up my parts list from "Fastenal" they have all the parts you need to repair the steps with Shoulder bolts and nuts,Not just threaded fasteners! Youroo!!
easier to take to a hardware store and match the size with a SS bolt with a nyloc nut... the nyloc nut will nut twist off
hopefully there will be enough clearance for the bolt/nut combo to clear closing the steps...
I did this on my steps but it was the top stair not the bottom...
ps maybe not use a bolt but a larger screw with a flat head... just look at the clearance needed to fold
__________________ "nothing can now be believed which is seen in a newspaper. Truth itself becomes suspicious by being put into that polluted vehicle." Thomas Jefferson to John Norvell pg. 2, June 11, 1807 2014 Shamrock 183
2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
Paul1 since you were so kind as send me a "Thank You" here is the Info you need, In the search box at the Top Right,put in "New steps at Rally" hit enter! Now the post from 9/12/2017 will come up,my Info with all part #s for Fastenal is listed in Post#64 on 9/12/2017 at 11:12 AM,thanks again for your Thanks! Youroo!!
The "hinge" on the step on my Roo broke. (see pic). it's the bottom fold-out stair.
I don't know much about rivets /riveting, but is that what this is and all that's
needed to repair? if so is it a standard rivet, or what kind of rivet is needed?
Or is this some special part that I need to go to the RV store to get?
Any help / tips appreciated!
We had the same thing happen to our hybrid and went to a hardware store. There was a "crimp" type rivet that we bought. I don't believe you can use a nut and bolt because of the narrow clearance when you close the steps. That is why we used the rivet.
We had the same thing happen to our hybrid and went to a hardware store. There was a "crimp" type rivet that we bought. I don't believe you can use a nut and bolt because of the narrow clearance when you close the steps. That is why we used the rivet.
My stair had no issues with the bolt heads and there was lots more room than you think. The lock nuts were on the inside.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Search under my name for "Stair Repair" I gave ALL the part #s from Fastenal for the repair,Fastenal has outlets everywhere! Youroo!!
Is there a secret for dealing with Fastenal? Every time I try to buy something simple at the local outlet I get crap from them. Not a member or not registered or something. I usually end up ordering from McMaster-Carr or using Grainger.
For this exact repair (lowest stair) on our 2002 SOB Nash, there was not clearance for a bolt and elastic stop nut ("Nylock"). I ordered rivets from Grainger. (Had to order 50, still have 49!).
I placed my 8 lb. sledge hammer on a concrete block at the right height on the outside of the step to use as an anvil. DW leaned on the sledge which held the rivet head in place. I used a 2 lb. machinist hammer and a huge 3/8" punch on the inside after placing a washer over the rivet. It only took about five minutes to do this job, and it looked just like the day it was manufactured.
I would be glad to mail rivets if others need them.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
I suspect there are different stairs for different models and probably different years.
Since the question was asked in the Hybrid category, I shot two pictures of my hinge point fix for my 2014 Shamrock hybrid.
First pic is left side where I replaced both hinge points. Note positioning of the bolt head and nyloc not... they are different in upper and lower positions to accommodate spacing on stairs. The length was probably around 1 inch ( maybe 3/4?) long and I believe I used 1/4-20 bolt size. The second shot is the other side where original fasteners are still in place. I also added a SS washer between the stair parts to accommodate movement of the steps. I lube these spots often with a spray gel-lube product from WD-40.
hope this helps the OP and others
__________________ "nothing can now be believed which is seen in a newspaper. Truth itself becomes suspicious by being put into that polluted vehicle." Thomas Jefferson to John Norvell pg. 2, June 11, 1807 2014 Shamrock 183
2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
Is there a secret for dealing with Fastenal? Every time I try to buy something simple at the local outlet I get crap from them. Not a member or not registered or something. I usually end up ordering from McMaster-Carr or using Grainger.
For this exact repair (lowest stair) on our 2002 SOB Nash, there was not clearance for a bolt and elastic stop nut ("Nylock"). I ordered rivets from Grainger. (Had to order 50, still have 49!).
I placed my 8 lb. sledge hammer on a concrete block at the right height on the outside of the step to use as an anvil. DW leaned on the sledge which held the rivet head in place. I used a 2 lb. machinist hammer and a huge 3/8" punch on the inside after placing a washer over the rivet. It only took about five minutes to do this job, and it looked just like the day it was manufactured.
I would be glad to mail rivets if others need them.
I think the should be named Fasten Nothing. Over several years and at multiple branches in different states I have never been able to find fasteners that I need. It seems they only have in stock what I can get at big box stores. McMaster-Carr has the stock but are a little pricey.
I think the should be named Fasten Nothing. Over several years and at multiple branches in different states I have never been able to find fasteners that I need. It seems they only have in stock what I can get at big box stores. McMaster-Carr has the stock but are a little pricey.
I really miss proper hardware stores.
It's not the price, it's the shipping. A $2.00 latch with $11.50 shipping? Doesn't make sense. It is helpful that Amazon sellers are starting to offer various obscure hardware parts with free shipping
But I am amazed at how much stuff I can get from eBay and from AliExpress for $2-3 with free shipping. If they can do it, why can't domestic merchants?
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
amazed at how much stuff I can get from eBay and from AliExpress for $2-3 with free shipping. If they can do it, why can't domestic merchants?
I suspect that amazon pays people $16/hr to pick hundreds of items an hour, but small retailers doing web business or working thru a warehousing situation charge so much because of the actual labor cost involved in picking the part then packaging then shipping that small part. NO AUTOMATION involved.
YES many overcharge this S&H fee and this forces me to buy amazon when I can find what I need on amazon site. I dislike Bezos but love his service...
How often do you go to find a bin at a big box store is empty of that exact thing that you need or want? Time and gas and frustration... so I find it on amazon and get it in 2 days or sometimes even one day and often pay less then in the brick and mortar store. No wonder this segment is growing every year.
__________________ "nothing can now be believed which is seen in a newspaper. Truth itself becomes suspicious by being put into that polluted vehicle." Thomas Jefferson to John Norvell pg. 2, June 11, 1807 2014 Shamrock 183
2014 RAM 1500 Bighorn Crew Cab, HEMI, 3.21 gears, 8 Spd, 4X4 TST TPMS
I placed my 8 lb. sledge hammer on a concrete block at the right height on the outside of the step to use as an anvil. DW leaned on the sledge which held the rivet head in place. I used a 2 lb. machinist hammer and a huge 3/8" punch on the inside after placing a washer over the rivet. It only took about five minutes to do this job, and it looked just like the day it was manufactured.
Larry, Larry, Larry...shame on you! I have always respected you for advocating using the right tools for the job — the tools designed to accomplish the task at hand.
I suppose, though, since you got the job done without needing to take your wife to the hospital, and it turned out working and looking like it should, you used the right tools for the job.
Bruce
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
Larry, Larry, Larry...shame on you! I have always respected you for advocating using the right tools for the job — the tools designed to accomplish the task at hand.
I suppose, though, since you got the job done without needing to take your wife to the hospital, and it turned out working and looking like it should, you used the right tools for the job.
Bruce
Bruce,
A punch and hammer are exactly the right tools for setting a rivet. Remember all those films of skyscraper workers in New York in the 1930s?
There's no longitudinal force on the rivet. You just have to hit it enough to make it a little shorter and fatter so it doesn't back out through the washer. You don't have to completely smash it. (The force on the rivet is shear force. That's why they have to be replaced.)
I should have mentioned that we were probably wearing safety goggles. I'm pretty careful about that.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
Youroo!!
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