Winterizing - RV Antifreeze vs. Compressed Air

Tewksburyduck · 10-15-2013, 06:29 PM

I am winterizing my Roo 23SS soon and I've been doing my homework on how to do this. I do have a air compressor so I can go either way.
I think I'd rather blow out the lines and add a little anti-freeze to the p-traps and tanks rather than pump anti-freeze into the entire plumbing system. Anyone have any preference on this?

CZNEDY · 10-15-2013, 06:55 PM

Tewksbury, fellow MASS Camper here. I used to do the anti-freeze. Been blowing the lines out for years now. Best way to do it in my opinion. Just watch the PSI, I try not to go over 30. We usually go camping one last time at Normandy Farms and do our winterizing on Sunday before we go home.

Tewksburyduck · 10-15-2013, 07:34 PM

Thanks. I've been looking at Normandy Farms. We have never been there. From the pictures on their web site it looks like the sites are not very secluded. Can you recommend any sites with full hook-ups?
We just got back from Glen Ellis in Glen, NH this past weekend. The sites there are packed in but the campground itself is nice.

CZNEDY · 10-15-2013, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tewksburyduck

Thanks. I've been looking at Normandy Farms. We have never been there. From the pictures on their web site it looks like the sites are not very secluded. Can you recommend any sites with full hook-ups?
We just got back from Glen Ellis in Glen, NH this past weekend. The sites there are packed in but the campground itself is nice.

We usually stay in the 600 t 900 rows. Full hook ups, pull thru. Not secluded but you have planty of space

DDC · 10-15-2013, 07:46 PM

I blow the lines and then add a/freeze, just feel that better safe than sorry.

rockfordroo · 10-15-2013, 08:18 PM

I blow the lines. I start with all faucets closed and the drains open. Then I close the drains and blow it once with the faucet nearest the water connection open, then close that one and do it again with the next nearest faucet open, then the next, working my way away from the water connection. Have someone hold the shower head into the shower stall or you'll have water everywhere!

R Whitlow · 10-15-2013, 08:37 PM

Another trick is the take a shop vac and blow out the drain traps, this will leave you only having to use a little pink AF in the tolits.

olwalker · 11-24-2013, 01:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Whitlow

Another trick is the take a shop vac and blow out the drain traps, this will leave you only having to use a little pink AF in the tolits.

Ok, so straight up...using a shopvac to blow the water out of the p-traps is genius!

cpd1343 · 11-24-2013, 08:06 AM

I blow out the lines as well. I also run a little anti-freeze thru the pump up to the filter canister just to be sure. I use a little adapter I made. I take off the line from the tank on the suction side of the pump. Then using the adapter suck enough anti-freeze thru to just start going into the empty filter canister. My canister is right above my pump so it is easy to do.

Scottnlaura · 11-26-2013, 07:53 PM

dont forget to open the drain on the hot water heater as well. i used a compressor to blow out the lines on ours and it worked great. 1 gallon of antifreeze for the traps and toilets and done!

Cowracer · 12-01-2013, 08:41 PM

Count me as a compressed air fan. No pink stuff in my freshwater system EVER!

Tim

Dave Lyon · 12-03-2013, 07:55 AM

I use both methods in conjunction. I blow out the lines with air and then pump 2 gallons of pink through the lines and pour some in the traps.

could be overkill......but the pink is cheap.

**wmtire** · 12-03-2013, 08:04 AM

I do just like many of the previous posters do. I did away with the water filter canister the first week I had the trailer, and tied the lines together.

I drain the water heater, blow out the lines (making sure to clear out any water in the outdoor/indoor shower heads), and add some pink stuff to the p-traps and top of toilet...............for the four days a year it get's below freezing here.

bubbles · 12-03-2013, 08:46 AM

I do the blow out method but have found that all one needs is a bicycle tire foot pump (hand operated) to blow out the lines. It costs about $10 and can be used anywhere the coach is located without the need for electrical power. The only item needed is the standard plumbing blow out adapter that has the schrader valve. All lines and low point draines can be completely blown out. DW is usually inside unit to open and close all faucets including toilet flush. Anyway, this approach works for me and I have had no issues with any coach I have owned.

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