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Old 06-13-2016, 10:52 AM   #201
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We also had a stuck sensor in the black tank. I use the black tank rinse every time I dump but there appears to be a corner it doesn't get very well. I've never had the rinse feature and it does do a lot but it appears there is no substitute for the good old pressure wand getting it all good and clean.... Well that and threatening all the daughters with replacing the TP with a wash rag haha
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:10 AM   #202
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Thanks, I'll look those up

SaveAJack.com


the main reason that I put these on the front are.

The side skirting hangs really low on the sides and I could not crank the scissor jack higher and it gets in the way of the skirt when fully up.

Also, the gas line runs along the door side rail on the underside and I was able to 'offset' the Sav-a Jac bracket, so the jack/plate does not touch the gas line.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:16 AM   #203
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We also had a stuck sensor in the black tank. I use the black tank rinse every time I dump but there appears to be a corner it doesn't get very well. I've never had the rinse feature and it does do a lot but it appears there is no substitute for the good old pressure wand getting it all good and clean.... Well that and threatening all the daughters with replacing the TP with a wash rag haha
We avoid putting TP in the toilet. We have a covered trash can for the TP and do not go #2. in the camper unless there is no alternative. Do you use 'RV' TP? It dissolves a lot better and hopefully will not stick to a sensor. I have 3 girls.... and they know better to NOT clog up the toilet. They can and have cleaned it out before and go well out of the way to avoid that.
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Old 06-13-2016, 11:44 AM   #204
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We had switched to single ply regular paper due to some bad advise I guess - lesson learned we went back to the Camco paper after the stuck sensor. But yes my eldest daughter got to help me clean it out so my guess is that issue is solved as well.... We use the camper toilet exclusively and there are 7 of us so it gets a workout.
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Old 06-16-2016, 12:25 AM   #205
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'Stabilizers' don't stabilize very well. they do not hold any weight either. I put in the front a set of 'Sav-a-Jac' brackets and added scissor jacks to the front (just behind the stabilizers). This will hold up the weight of the front and relieve some pressure weight off of the jack. Just this year I put some scissor jacks on the back.
I imagine that your trailer is pretty stable with the four scissor jacks? I have been thinking about getting jt strong arms but am second guessing with the electric stabilizers being so weak that the strongarms will have no effect.

I had read that scissor jacks were the best for stability
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:36 PM   #206
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So I feel like I have solved the cold bunkroom issue I was experiencing. We have started to run the a/c fan on low all night long (great white noise for the girls to stay sleeping) and then the furnace kicks in and out at it's leisure. I still have an electric heater in the bunkroom as a backup and the past few nights the bunkroom has stayed rock steady at 72 degrees.

The other side benefit is that the bunkroom or front bedroom doesn't get stuffy because the air that is getting cycled into the room from the a/c ducting.

very pleased with this turn of events for us, because before the trailer was all over the place just running on the furnace alone, either too hot or too cold.

Hope that helps,
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Old 06-27-2016, 09:58 PM   #207
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Well just got back from my 1500 mile trip to SC and back. Trailer did great for most part. Had a black tank issue, my fault, but had the 30amp breaker kick with just the AC and microwave running. Is this common? Do I need to look into wiring up to 50? If so has anyone done it or should I just buy the adapter and plug into 50? Any input helpful.
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:55 PM   #208
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Never had my 30 amp pop. With microwave, AC, and electric smoker.
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:12 AM   #209
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I was always told no microwave and a/c at the same time, or it will pop....so I have never actually tried it...just shut off a/c for a couple minutes and use microwave. I have popped my breaker using the a/c, hot water heater and both fridges on at the same time all on electric.

That was last year, I installed a hard start capacitor on my a/c this spring and it has really seemed to reduce the startup load, might be able to run a few more things at the same time now.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:45 AM   #210
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I always use propane for the water heater maybe that is the difference
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:57 AM   #211
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Mine trips the 30 amp breaker with everything on electric. I think these rigs should have been wired 50 amp as standard.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:33 AM   #212
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Mine trips the 30 amp breaker with everything on electric. I think these rigs should have been wired 50 amp as standard.
agreed
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:19 PM   #213
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I agree that it should have been 50 amp because they definitely need a second ac. They are too big for only one.
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:05 PM   #214
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We just spent several days down at gulf shores. Mid 90's not much shade and the single A/C worked but rarely turned off until about an hour after the sun went down. So yes if it had the second it would be much better. And as we discussed earlier w/ the 50amp wiring we never tripped a breaker even with coffee pot, ac, water heater, Resi fridge - everything running and no issues....
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:03 PM   #215
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Camped this past weekend and had a power issue ourselves. We have the residential refrig that runs off an inverter as we are driving and it had been plugged in for 24hrs at home so I know it was cold. We got to the site and set up, plugged into the 50 amp plug, turned on both A/C and left to play with the kids. Came back several hours later to open the fridge to find that it was warm and not blowing air but the light was on in it. The freezer was cold as ice and blowing strong. Turned off the second air and the fridge came back to life. So I put the water heater on gas to save power and didn't use the second ac again. Called the dealer they said it sounded like the power to the site was bad. Checked and it was 115 on one leg 119 on the other and 233 across both, think I did it right? The camp ground did say they had some power issues across camp were one of the underground legs was bad but that should have not effected us they said. Anyone think the numbers are off enough on to cause a problem? This was our first time using second air so I don't know if there is a problem or not there.
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Old 07-01-2016, 02:55 PM   #216
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Just a guess but you may have been pushing it. Converter would have been drawing a bunch of amps to charge your batteries after running the fridge. I bet if you leave water heater on propane you would be good to go. Just a guess though
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Old 07-02-2016, 05:50 AM   #217
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When we hooked to power we turn the inverter off. The inverter is only on when not plugged into power. It converts the truck power to 120v or the camper battery if dry camping to 120v.
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Old 07-02-2016, 06:05 AM   #218
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I always use propane for the water heater maybe that is the difference
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Old 07-02-2016, 08:11 AM   #219
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We are currently at a site that the water pressure is pretty poor. Anyone think it would hurt to run my pump out of fresh tank with the city water hook to boost the pressure just for showers

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Old 07-02-2016, 02:35 PM   #220
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We are currently at a site that the water pressure is pretty poor. Anyone think it would hurt to run my pump out of fresh tank with the city water hook to boost the pressure just for showers

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The are separate systems so that won't work. But do fill and use your pump from the freshwater tank if it has better pressure
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