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Old 12-10-2015, 01:00 PM   #61
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I see you are pulling a small trailer behind your camper. Was it a kit you purchased or something of your own idea. Could you give some more detailed pictures of the hitch you have to pull the trailer behind your camper
I bought a hitch that i think was for some Saturn cross over and fabbed it to fit. I'll try to get some pics here soon.
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:12 PM   #62
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Just got a new to us 2014 Heritage Glen 312 QBUD. We took it out for a short shake down trip before we head to Orlando for New Years. I was wondering if anyone has mounted a tv in a rear bedroom? Is so can you give me an idea where you put the mount I am worried about staying in the wall when driving.
In our Salem they told me there were supports built into the entertainment center area. How true that is I'm not sure.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:57 AM   #63
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Thanks for the ideas. Sitting the tv in that space with a strap to secure while driving was my first idea also, but I prefer to mount it to the wall. I am hoping someone here has done it. I know some trailers have reinforcement for wall mounting tvs, hoping may these do as well.
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Old 12-11-2015, 11:35 AM   #64
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Thanks for the ideas. Sitting the tv in that space with a strap to secure while driving was my first idea also, but I prefer to mount it to the wall. I am hoping someone here has done it. I know some trailers have reinforcement for wall mounting tvs, hoping may these do as well.
A stud finder should tells us whether there is something there or not. My trailer is 40min away in storage so it will be a while before I could check my unit
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Old 12-13-2015, 02:03 PM   #65
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We got our QBUD on January 2 of this year. We named her Seemore. We've done several weekend camps and then took her out West for a 3 week trip for our son's graduation trip.

One issue we DID have to tackle was trading up our tow vehicle. We started with a 2004 Ford F-150, but blew out the rear end and had to trade up to a 2015 Chevy 2500 diesel. We've had some minor issues we took back to our dealer to fix (which they halfway did). Our issues have been with the dealer - not FR.

Our kids are 15 & 18, so we plan on upgrading in a few years to a front living 5th wheel. Right now, we're looking at the Cardinal 3825FL, but have also considered a similar Heartland.

Glad y'all started this thread. Very nice to be able to connect with others who have the same TT as we do. Also - we belong to several Facebook groups of Rv-ers (Average Joe Camping, RV Fun) where we've picked up a lot of great tips & tricks.

Tim & Julie
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:26 PM   #66
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Attachment 96112

We got our QBUD on January 2 of this year. We named her Seemore. We've done several weekend camps and then took her out West for a 3 week trip for our son's graduation trip.

One issue we DID have to tackle was trading up our tow vehicle. We started with a 2004 Ford F-150, but blew out the rear end and had to trade up to a 2015 Chevy 2500 diesel. We've had some minor issues we took back to our dealer to fix (which they halfway did). Our issues have been with the dealer - not FR.

Our kids are 15 & 18, so we plan on upgrading in a few years to a front living 5th wheel. Right now, we're looking at the Cardinal 3825FL, but have also considered a similar Heartland.

Glad y'all started this thread. Very nice to be able to connect with others who have the same TT as we do. Also - we belong to several Facebook groups of Rv-ers (Average Joe Camping, RV Fun) where we've picked up a lot of great tips & tricks.

Tim & Julie
I think the more of us that there are with the same trailer the more help we can be for each other. Either with problems or advice or upgrades, we will all have awesome trailers in the end.
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Old 12-13-2015, 05:16 PM   #67
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I plan on putting load E tires on mine in the spring
my unit came with E rated tires. Check the side walls, you may have them already.
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Old 12-13-2015, 07:10 PM   #68
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Mine are definitely D. Is yours a heritage Glen or a Salem? Mine is a 2015 Salem.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:17 AM   #69
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Mine are definitely D. Is yours a heritage Glen or a Salem? Mine is a 2015 Salem.
Mine is in my Sig line.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:37 AM   #70
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Sig doesn't show on mobile app. I guess I will go to the full site to see what your signature says.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:43 AM   #71
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Brother Les has a 2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD. Man that was hard to type.
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Old 12-15-2015, 12:54 PM   #72
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Welcome to the forum and thanks for starting the thread. We have our 312 for a couple of years.... and still getting the bugs out.

Slide problems
Axle and hub problems
Fresh water tank self draining problems.

The factory does not fill the spindle and hub cavity with axle grease. 'Manuel' says to pull hubs and repack bearing once a year(do it or 'your warranty' on your axles are voided). I would jack you tires off the ground and pull them in and out to make sure that the bearings/castle nut are tight. Also the carter key in the spindle is about as cheap as they come and will/may break.

My trailer brakes are self adjusting when braking -GOING FORWARD-. See if you have this style and check them and back them off when need be.

I had to get a Thin Wall Socket to be able to take the wheels off, as a 4-way will not work.

Fresh water tank would self siphon out more of the water at the breather tube so I installed a shut off valve and open it up when set up at camp.

Keep an eye on your tires, I have D rated tires that came with the unit and on 'china bomb' exploded with about 200 miles on it after I bought it. I now have two spares with me at all times. I installed one of these BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

Learn how to use the over ride controls on your slides outs. When you have a jam up you will want to know how to get them in/out. My slide would go out ok, but coming in, the 'slide' would tilt down and drag too hard on the rollers on the floor under the slide. Found out that the in wall carriage would kick out at the bottom and push out the outside panel and loosened the outside screws that kept the Assembly in the wall. Ended up drilling a few more screw holes and put in some heavier screws to stop the movement on the main slide.

The outside kitchen door (up/down) was jamming and found out that the screws holding it along the top were not heavy enough to hold it up and they will work out.

The inside kitchen faucet looks nice, but it is cheap junk that will leak badly everywhere. Replace it with a home one that you like from Home Depot/Lowes/etc.

You will want to put scissor jacks under it, as the 'stabilizers' too little to nothing in stabilizing it or holding it up (gets a lot of weight off the electric jack when camping with the scissor jacks). I use quick release plates (save a jack) and pull the jacks off when going down the road.
SaveAJack.com

I also have a canopy hold down kit and poles from "OC".
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...les-85132.html

Also get a surge protector.

Thanks for the info about the four way I just checked mine, and my 4 way will not fit. Do you know the socket size for the lugs?


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Old 12-15-2015, 01:33 PM   #73
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Thanks for the info about the four way I just checked mine, and my 4 way will not fit. Do you know the socket size for the lugs?


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I will look at it and get back to you. I use a socket (thin wall) with a half inch exstension and a large half inch wratchet. I also have a torque wrench to make sure that they are even.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:26 PM   #74
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Socket size is 13/16.
Get a long neck 13/16 that fits a half in ratchet/extension.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:35 PM   #75
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Socket size is 13/16.
Get a long neck 13/16 that fits a half in ratchet/extension.

Brother les
Thanks you probably saved me a long wait on side of road for road side assistants.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:32 PM   #76
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Brother les
Thanks you probably saved me a long wait on side of road for road side assistants.
You should also some 2x6 boards of several leangths in order to build a step up ramp/type to pull your unit up on if you have a flat. by using one wheel to lift the side that you have a flat, you can get your flat tire high enough to change to the spare. Camping world sells a unit that can be used, but I use treated boards, as I can use them for other useages if needed.
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Old 12-19-2015, 06:10 AM   #77
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You should also some 2x6 boards of several leangths in order to build a step up ramp/type to pull your unit up on if you have a flat. by using one wheel to lift the side that you have a flat, you can get your flat tire high enough to change to the spare. Camping world sells a unit that can be used, but I use treated boards, as I can use them for other useages if needed.

I carry 2x6s but I have found I prefer the plastic "Lego" style block for leveling, so I assume I could use them for this purpose. But when it comes to changing a tire I just use my 6 ton bottle jack. IMHO this faster and easier. But this is why I joined this forum,to learn different ways of doing things so thank you for the information.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:52 PM   #78
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I carry 2x6s but I have found I prefer the plastic "Lego" style block for leveling, so I assume I could use them for this purpose. But when it comes to changing a tire I just use my 6 ton bottle jack. IMHO this faster and easier. But this is why I joined this forum,to learn different ways of doing things so thank you for the information.

These units are heavy, be very careful when lifting tires off the ground. Never put your jack on the axle 'beam'. you will/can bend this very easily. I used to use a jack (I carry one) but not anymore. It is very quick for me to change a tire by breaking the lugs loose with the flat on the ground and then pulling the unit up on my 'lift' boards to where the flat is an inch or so off the ground. Pull the flat off and put spare on and tighten and then back the unit off the boards/lift, then torque down the lug nuts. To me it is faster, to me it is imo safer, as I am never under the unit. Safety, first and always. (I also have the red 'lego' blocks, but have not used them to change a tire.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:49 AM   #79
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312QBUD Owners Thread

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These units are heavy, be very careful when lifting tires off the ground. Never put your jack on the axle 'beam'. you will/can bend this very easily. I used to use a jack (I carry one) but not anymore. It is very quick for me to change a tire by breaking the lugs loose with the flat on the ground and then pulling the unit up on my 'lift' boards to where the flat is an inch or so off the ground. Pull the flat off and put spare on and tighten and then back the unit off the boards/lift, then torque down the lug nuts. To me it is faster, to me it is imo safer, as I am never under the unit. Safety, first and always. (I also have the red 'lego' blocks, but have not used them to change a tire.

Brother Les,
I do not understand how driving it up on a ramp puts any less force on the axle. If you place a bottle jack were the suspension attaches to the axle you are not putting any more force on it than if I drove the other tire up on a ramp.
As far as safety when using a jack I am only place an arm under trailer and by using the natural movement in suspension I am not tilting the entire trailer. Also by leaving the other tire on the ground it allows me to properly chalk the tires.
I mean no disrespect to you, I love gaining new knowledge,I am simply try to under stand where you are coming from.


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Old 12-21-2015, 09:08 AM   #80
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Brother Les,
I do not understand how driving it up on a ramp puts any less force on the axle. If you place a bottle jack were the suspension attaches to the axle you are not putting any more force on it than if I drove the other tire up on a ramp.
As far as safety when using a jack I am only place an arm under trailer and by using the natural movement in suspension I am not tilting the entire trailer. Also by leaving the other tire on the ground it allows me to properly chalk the tires.
I mean no disrespect to you, I love gaining new knowledge,I am simply try to under stand where you are coming from.


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2015 RAM 1500 Crew Cab

Each will learn and do what is comfertable to themselves (safety always). No disrespect felt at all. Put your jack on the U-Bolt (area), as any farther to the center of the unit axle beam will cause the possiablility of bending the axle beam and with that, the spindle will not be true.
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