A couple basic RV questions

[parver]

Totally new to RVing. I am looking at a Coachmen Chaparral 360IBL. I have a 2011 3500HD duramax, ran all the numbers and look good weight wise.

I have a few pretty basic questions for you more experienced campers!

1) My fridge is advertised as 12V. I am guessing this means it is a DC fridge. I don't think this particular fridge can run off propane. Does it switch to AC when on shore power or does it stay a 12V fridge and the 110V charges the batteries, which keep this going? What about enroute, my truck is keeping the batteries charged which is running the fridge?

2) Speaking of shore power, this is a 50amp trailer. Lets say I am on a 110V household outlet. What can I expect to run? The slides? The fridge? Lights? There are 2 AC units. Maybe one of them? What happens if I try to run too much? Household outlet breaker pops? Or breakers on the trailer start to pop?

3) It has a 6 point auto level system. Should I use plywood under these? Can I get it up on the levels and take the tires off if I want to get new tires? Heard the tires that come with it aren't great.

Thanks

[Cost4133]

1. 12v fridge I think implies it is a 3 way RV fridge. So the fridge can run on 110v (prefer) gas or 12v.

2. You can plug into a 110 outlet, lights, slides, awning etc will work. ONe a/c might work but could require a slow start/hard start kit. Overload it, it will pop house breaker

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Cost4133

1. 12v fridge I think implies it is a 3 way RV fridge. So the fridge can run on 110v (prefer) gas or 12v.

Nope, a number of trailers are now equipped with an Everchill 12v DC fridge. It is only 12v and not a 3-way fridge.
Personally I would NEVER have this kind of fridge. It's inability to also run on propane, is a major negative for me.

[gbaldwin]

I couldnt do without propane fridge. I hope it is a 3 way.

Actually if I understand mine, it does use some 12 V for ignighter and light, but it is actually 2 way..... 110 if plugged to any shore power (or Gen) otherwise, gas. I leave on auto setting

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by parver

Totally new to RVing. I am looking at a Coachmen Chaparral 360IBL. I have a 2011 3500HD duramax, ran all the numbers and look good weight wise.

I have a few pretty basic questions for you more experienced campers!

1) My fridge is advertised as 12V. I am guessing this means it is a DC fridge. I don't think this particular fridge can run off propane. Does it switch to AC when on shore power or does it stay a 12V fridge and the 110V charges the batteries, which keep this going? What about enroute, my truck is keeping the batteries charged which is running the fridge?

2) Speaking of shore power, this is a 50amp trailer. Lets say I am on a 110V household outlet. What can I expect to run? The slides? The fridge? Lights? There are 2 AC units. Maybe one of them? What happens if I try to run too much? Household outlet breaker pops? Or breakers on the trailer start to pop?

3) It has a 6 point auto level system. Should I use plywood under these? Can I get it up on the levels and take the tires off if I want to get new tires? Heard the tires that come with it aren't great.

Thanks

If this is a 2019 model Coachmen Chaparral 360IBL with 4 slides and 50amp service I think you have misread some of the features.

[Flybob]

I would recheck the model # in the fridge as I have never seen a 50A RV with a 12V fridge. Please provide the model# for the fridge and we can check it for you. Running the RV on a standard 15/20A home outlet will limit what you can run. Slides, lights, tv will be fine. Once AC very questionable as it will depend on the house breaker size for the house breaker and what else in the home is running on that breaker.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by gbaldwin

I couldnt do without propane fridge. I hope it is a 3 way.

Actually if I understand mine, it does use some 12 V for ignighter and light, but it is actually 2 way..... 110 if plugged to any shore power (or Gen) otherwise, gas. I leave on auto setting

3-way fridges are generally only found in folding trailers and truck campers anymore.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bikendan

Nope, a number of trailers are now equipped with an Everchill 12v DC fridge. It is only 12v and not a 3-way fridge.
Personally I would NEVER have this kind of fridge. It's inability to also run on propane, is a major negative for me.

Originally Posted by Flybob

I would recheck the model # in the fridge as I have never seen a 50A RV with a 12V fridge. Please provide the model# for the fridge and we can check it for you. Running the RV on a standard 15/20A home outlet will limit what you can run. Slides, lights, tv will be fine. Once AC very questionable as it will depend on the house breaker size for the house breaker and what else in the home is running on that breaker.

I have to agree with Dan... at a recent R/V show we seen several units with the Everchill 12v ONLY refrigerator.

I believe they are manufactured by Way Interglobal.
They do make some 120v/12v only models as well.

Here is what an eTrailer rep said about current draw...
"I spoke to my contact at Way Interglobal about the Everchill Refrigerator part # 324-000119. They informed me that upon startup and until the set temperature is reached, the unit will draw 8-9 amps. Once the set temperature is reached, it will draw around 3 amps to remain at this temperature.

[robbiels7]

The leveling jacks should lift the rig with ease for tire changes. I put 4×6 blocks under mine mostly so they don't have to extend so far.

[parver]

Originally Posted by bubbles

If this is a 2019 model Coachmen Chaparral 360IBL with 4 slides and 50amp service I think you have misread some of the features.

How do you mean?

Originally Posted by Flybob

I would recheck the model # in the fridge as I have never seen a 50A RV with a 12V fridge. Please provide the model# for the fridge and we can check it for you. Running the RV on a standard 15/20A home outlet will limit what you can run. Slides, lights, tv will be fine. Once AC very questionable as it will depend on the house breaker size for the house breaker and what else in the home is running on that breaker.

I don't have access to the model number of the fridge (haven't bought this unit yet). Here is a screen shot of the chaparral brochure indicating the option.

Upon doing a little digging, I think this is the fridge that is provided:

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Refriger...24-000119.html

5picker might have referenced something from that, good info in the Q&A section. So I guess it is a true 12V fridge that will run off the batteries.

[bubbles]

[QUOTE=parver;2095260]How do you mean?

It's just that to me it sounded as though a DC fridge is the only way this unit is delivered when even your own brochure indicates there are at least 3 "optional" fridges available. That's all.

[Cost4133]

[QUOTE=bubbles;2095307]

Originally Posted by parver

How do you mean?

It's just that to me it sounded as though a DC fridge is the only way this unit is delivered when even your own brochure indicates there are at least 3 "optional" fridges available. That's all.

I read it is the unit on the lot has the 12v fridge. Which I have never seen before.

For the OP, id find one with an upgraded fridge.

[parver]

Originally Posted by bubbles

It's just that to me it sounded as though a DC fridge is the only way this unit is delivered when even your own brochure indicates there are at least 3 "optional" fridges available. That's all.

Gotcha thanks for the help. For my unit (360IBL), there are only two available. The standard 8 cu ft and this upgraded 10cu ft. The others aren't available.

[ard58]

[QUOTE=parver;2094726]
3) It has a 6 point auto level system. Should I use plywood under these? Can I get it up on the levels and take the tires off if I want to get new tires? Heard the tires that come with it aren't great.

Using plywood is not a good idea. It's pressed/glued, together and when it gets wet it comes apart. Use rough cut 2X6's, 4X6's, or buy some of the not too expensive plastic leveling blocks.
NO---DO NOT try to use the stabilizers as jacks! They are not made for that.

[CGK]

Nothing much to add regarding the limits to electric device usage while on standard 15 or 20 amp 120 volt current - unlikely any "big draw" items will run on it, and nearly impossible to run multiple big draw devices (or even a combination of big draw and minimum draw devices). That 6-point leveling system sounds great (mine is only 4-point), and that description makes me think it is a leveling jack versus a stabilizer jack. If so, you may want to look into SnapPads (https://rvsnappad.com). They mount on the bottom of each jack foot and stay there. The company is great to work with, and will even help you choose the right option for your coach. I originally read about them on this forum - one of many great tips I've gotten here.

[rfifer]

As far as the power draw off the house current, it is a matter of adding the amps for everything that is turned on. You should be able to look up the amperage draw of the appliances and AC units. Check your amperage on the house circuit box to see if it is 15 or 20 amps for that particular electrical circuit. Whatever is running in the house on that circuit must be added to what you turn in the trailer. Once it exceeds the breaker switch amperage, the house breaker will pop - not the trailer breaker. In our camper, I could turn on the interior lights (which were all LEDs and had a negligible amp draw) and the air conditioner. If I tried to use the vacuum at the same time, I'd pop the breaker. So you can experiment a little to find out what are the limits of what can be turned on and still keep the breaker in its closed position. I can guarantee that your house electrical panel will let you know.

[Comanchecreek]

I would be hard pressed to think a 12 volt only fridge in a rig like that would be anything but trouble. If they put the usual tiny deep cycle in there you probably would be dead in a few hours, (battery I mean). If you try to use too much on a 15 amp, home plug in, you risk damaging your cords, along with potential to blow the circuit. Your cords cannot take the draw of your AC's without getting hot. The same could happen at a plug receptacle. Voice of experience.
I do not put pads under my levelers unless the area is dirt, or gravel. I do agree with others that blocking up will reduce movement when parked by shortening the length of the leveler arms.

[parver]

Thanks to all for your help.

Originally Posted by CGK

That 6-point leveling system sounds great (mine is only 4-point), and that description makes me think it is a leveling jack versus a stabilizer jack. If so, you may want to look into SnapPads (https://rvsnappad.com). They mount on the bottom of each jack foot and stay there.

With a leveling jack vs stabilizer jack, do you get one or the other? What is the purpose of these pads, just to expand the footprint of the jack?

Originally Posted by rfifer

As far as the power draw off the house current, it is a matter of adding the amps for everything that is turned on. You should be able to look up the amperage draw of the appliances and AC units.

When I rented a class C, I was able to run the AC off the home plug in. This unit has a 15,000 but AC and a smaller 12.5 in the bedroom. Hopefully I can run the 15k off a house plug. Sounds like that type of AC will draw around 12-15 amps so it would be close with anything else.

Originally Posted by Comanchecreek

I do not put pads under my levelers unless the area is dirt, or gravel. I do agree with others that blocking up will reduce movement when parked by shortening the length of the leveler arms.

When you say reduce movement, are you talking about the trailer shaking a bit when moving? This happens more the longer the levelers are extended? It's going to parked on grass in my yard for the time being until I can build something to store it inside. Wondering the type of setup I should use on the grass? Those snappads from above?

[Comanchecreek]

I just use the snap together plastic leveling blocks. Used to use them on my old rig to level side to side, but don't need them with the auto leveling system most of the time.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Levelin...-1-spons&psc=1
I must say, I'm not familiar with the pad system talked about here.

[chaps2018]

Originally Posted by parver

"With a leveling jack vs stabilizer jack, do you get one or the other? What is the purpose of these pads, just to expand the footprint of the jack?"

"...Hopefully I can run the 15k off a house plug...."

"When you say reduce movement, are you talking about the trailer shaking a bit when moving? This happens more the longer the levelers are extended?..."

Yes, it is just one or the other. The 6pt is a leveling system. You can read about the benefits of the snappads on their website. I don't use them since they reduce my ground clearance. I use one or more Lynx Blocks for this purpose.

I have been able to run either (Not both) of the ACs on low cool when plugged into a house plug.

Yes, in general the more the jacks are extended the more the trailer will move around while you are walking inside. I have found it to be a good practice to limit the travel of the landing gear by using 5-10 lynx blocks (1-5 on the rear jacks in extreme unlevel situations).

Of course this all depends on your site's front-back/side-side level. Some times I need 0 blocks in front and more in the rear.

Likely you are starting to see the versatility & value of lynx blocks. They also can be used to raise a flat tire up to change when on the road. you just use them like lego blocks to build a ramp to drive the good wheel up on and it will raise the flat wheel so you can change it. No affiliation with Lynx blocks other than a satisfied user.