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Old 08-30-2014, 06:57 PM   #1
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AC on home 110 power

I have a standard 110 outlet at my home where I am going to park my RV. The RV has a 15000 BTU AC, can I run it when I plug in to my home?


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Old 08-30-2014, 09:53 PM   #2
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I would not do it. For sure if it's a 15amp. It might run it at first but the proper amp are not there witch will cause damage to the unit. Also keep in mind your converter will be running too.
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:01 PM   #3
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Yup, bad idea. Lots of people will tell you it'll work, and maybe it will for a while, but at the very least you'll burn up the cord adaptor and the outlet it's plugged into. Have the correct receptacle wired in and never worry about it!
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Old 08-30-2014, 10:25 PM   #4
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Thanks for the heads up on this....


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Old 08-31-2014, 06:12 PM   #5
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Would I be able to do things like put the slide out on it with the 15 amp hookup?
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:33 PM   #6
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Would I be able to do things like put the slide out on it with the 15 amp hookup?
I believe your slides are 12volt and don't need any hookup unless the battery is low and then the hookup would power the converter giving you 12volts.
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:50 PM   #7
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I'll use 15A to run the AC long enough to cool the unit down if I'm in and out before or after a trip loading / cleaning. If I did it often or for very long, I'd put in 30A. I've never had a problem and the AC draws well under 15A while it's running. I won't use ANYTHING aside from an LED fixture when I'm doing it though. Now, when I'm not running the AC, I'm not afraid to run nearly everything else in the trailer off of 15A...microwave and water heater on electric will trip it if they run at the same time, but everything else is fine. I wouldn't try to run a coffee maker or hairdryer off the trailer plugs like that though. That should give you an idea of what you can run on a 15A circuit.
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:56 PM   #8
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I should have taken a picture of the receptacle (melted "INTO" the box of the receptacle) at my cousins house after running my AC on a 20amp plug in. Yes we had to replace the converter plug and the receptacle too.. I only hope I didn't damage the AC unit.... So far so good..
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:02 PM   #9
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That's got to be faulty wiring / defective adapter. Less than 20A through a circuit / wiring designed for 20A should never do that. That's the main reason I don't do it for very long and never untended.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:21 PM   #10
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I find it all a bit strange that it will not work on a 110 outlet because you can get a 15,000 BTU window unit on a house. But, I assume it has something to do with the wiring on the RV.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:25 PM   #11
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It's all 110. The rv will normally be rated at usually 30 or 50 amp. A 30A service on a trailer will have a 30A main breaker and wiring to support it.

I think what you're getting at is you can plug a big window unit into a 15A plug in the house, why is this different? I don't really believe it is.


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Old 08-31-2014, 07:28 PM   #12
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Exactly, I am not an electrician, I can understand not running the AC and multiple other devices. I like your strategy.


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Old 08-31-2014, 07:33 PM   #13
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I'm not an electrician either, but I do know there are other factors such as a drop in voltage causing an increase in amp draw, or using too small of an extension cord resulting in the same.

I'm not really trying to contradict these other guys, just saying what's worked for me. Extra caution is always a good thing no matter what. Just keep a close eye on it.


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Old 08-31-2014, 07:38 PM   #14
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I have a standard 110 outlet at my home where I am going to park my RV. The RV has a 15000 BTU AC, can I run it when I plug in to my home?


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Won't work. You can get a Electrician to come in and wire a 50AMP (just DO it cuz you WILL Upgrade ) receptacle for mmm $100 or so if you can't do it yourself. Then you are golden. Separate breaker and you will not overload your circuit!
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:06 PM   #15
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I love this advice "I'm not an electrician but I know what works for me." I am an electrician and I know what will eventually happen because we make good money doing service calls during the summer replacing receptacles and installing RV outlets. It's always got something to do with what their buddy did or whatever. Alot of things are at play here. Total wire length from the electrical service to your outlet, actual voltage at the electrical service to start with, length of the RV cord, length and size of any drop cords being used, condition of the plugs and receptacles (anything that is corroding or discoloring) and heck, whether the receptacles feeding the one you're using are wired using the feed-thru and stab-in connectors. Take a digital voltmeter and plug it into any 120V reveptacle inside the RV, set it for AC volts and hit the air conditioner. Watch that meter and remember that the convertor may or may not be on and the refrigerator may or may not be running. Bottom line, it's your stuff and you can do what you want.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:20 AM   #16
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How much do you charge for the installation of this type of outlet?


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Old 09-01-2014, 07:35 AM   #17
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I had my electrical outlet panel upgraded this spring and had a 30amp RV outlet in stalled guests.on the back of the house. Sure makes a difference. I use the TT as an extra bedroom when we have
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:39 AM   #18
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Home Depot sells this 30 amp RV box $42.00. GE 30 Amp Temporary RV Power Outlet with Breaker-U013CP at The Home Depot

Installed one with a 30 amp and a 20 amp GFI breaker so I could also run power tools. I ordered it from Home Depot and installed it my self. I am not an electrician, but I am comfortable with doing the work safely. Checked the building codes for my area and made sure I complied with them.

If you have any doubt in your ability to work with electrical, don't do it and call a pro.

Will say the electrician wanted over $300.00 just for the box. The one I ordered from HD was $114.00.
GE 100 Amp 2-Space 2-Circuit 240 Volt Unmetered RV Outlet Box with 30 Amp and 20 Amp GCFI Circuit Protected Receptacles-GE1LU032SS at The Home Depot
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:52 AM   #19
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I find it all a bit strange that it will not work on a 110 outlet because you can get a 15,000 BTU window unit on a house. But, I assume it has something to do with the wiring on the RV.
I think it has lots to with new household models are very energy efficient, "star compliant" to meet new Govt. Std, They draw down around 9-10 amps compared to 12-14. RV units are more compact with smaller coolers and condensers. With a 15 max amp circuit available.
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:45 AM   #20
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I have done basic electrical work at my house including changing breakers in my panel, changing fans and lights, etc. I am sure I could do it myself without an issue. I just need to do all my research on how it is done. I will probably get a couple of quotes from some pros to see what they would charge. This is no more than an hour or two hour of work for a trained professional. I may call my cousin and pay him, he is a professional electrician.
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