Battery enough to move slide?

[ProfChuck]

Yes, you can do a lot of carrying the battery for $699 (that's like $10.00 a trip for almost 70 trips!). Better invested in vacations. My idea of a bad day of camping is when the air conditioner breaks down. We base camp a lot going to one place and staying for a week or two at a time and driving out to the points of interest from there. Every time we can, we go for full hookups and only set up the one time until we leave. I like to use the TT more like a motel than a challenge camp (which we did when we tent camped). However, there are certain places where you just can't get full hookups, and for those times, being able to dry camp is really nice, but, we have never run out of battery - more, out of water or gray/black tank capacity. Sometimes we will "overnight" somewhere where there are no hookups, but, that is usually not very often (maybe once or twice in over 40 years). Also, we have found that unless you are going for a long trip it is sometimes better to take a plane and rent a car rather than drag the TT. Since we graduated from a VW Bus conversion in the 1970's (making a 7,000 mile trip out West) to our present Windjammer, we usually limit the distance we travel in the TT to under 1,000 miles on a trip (one way). We found that you have to stay at least 2 days for every 300 miles you travel to "break even" in the cost of the TT vs a car or plane (not including the original cost of the TT and TV). Longer stays you win, shorter stays, it costs more. Our battery usually lasts about 5 years before replacement and we use Costco (Interstate) batteries. We also camp in temperate weather, so don't have to use the furnace much, and the fridge is on gas. Planning and reservations are usually tops on our list (already 2019 is booked) of camping things to do. But, if you do a lot of dry camping down the road, the small generator might be a way to go.

[daveinthekeys]

I think CedarCreekWoody has the answer to use jumper cables from the truck to when moving the slide... Nothing to buy.

This is wether or not you decide to trickle charge the battery at home or with solar.

I was told, and have read several times, that either the rig should be plugged in or motor running (motorhome) or generator running when the slide(s) is being moved

The idea is that the battery alone is not a good way to power it. Yes, one could get by with a fully charged battery in an emergency. But best practice is to have a power source into the battery while moving the slide.

Not claiming any personal knowledge. Repeating what I have been told repeatedly.

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by streittk

I recently purchased a used 2011 Wildwood 26TBSS. I bought a new size 27 12-volt marine battery and plastic case, charged it up and put it on the trailer. I also bought and installed is disconnect switch. The trailer is park in my slot at the storage and we've been out there twice since, cleaning the interior, and doing some small things to get it ready for our first trip.

Here's the thing. We have no power at the storage area. We've worked on the camper a couple times, maybe 4-5 hours or so but we weren't using much power. When we worked on it, we pushed the slide out, and then pulled the slide back in before leaving. When we did, it sounded like the battery barely had enough Amps to move the slide.

Note that part of the work we were doing on the trailer was replacing all the incandescent bulbs with LEDs, but I wouldn't think that would have run my battery that low. I probably should have brought my battery home to top off the charge, but you know what they say about hindsight.

So here's the advice I'm looking for. My plan is to use campsites with electric hookups 90% of the time. Would it be worth it for me to get a second battery to run in parallel?

Low voltage to slide motors has according to some reports caused problems.

[dward51]

I don't think anyone pointed this out yet. There are some things in the trailer that will continue to draw power from the battery when everything is turned off and it's just sitting. Depending on how long it sits, this can drain the bulk of the charge on the battery. One example is the sensors for propane inside the trailer. It runs all the time.

If you don't have a battery disconnect switch, the easy thing to do is take the negative lead off at the battery (it's probably the white wire, as most trailers use black for positive and white for negative unlike cars that use black for negative and red for positive - just look at the markings on your battery). The battery will still "self discharge" some if it's a standard lead acid battery (sealed or not), but unhooking the lead will make it last as long as possible and it only takes a second to reconnect it. The battery on my TT will move our slide.

So I would take it home or charge on site, and then see if it works like you want for longer with a charged battery and then unhook it before you leave. It will charge from the tow vehicle as long as your fuse is not blown (not uncommon). Either get a plug in 7way tester ($10 or so) or use a multi-meter to make sure you have 12v power at the 7way hookup. If you do, it will charge. But depending on how discharged the battery is, it may take a while. Leave the truck motor running when charging this way or you could drain the truck battery also! Jumper cables would probably be the easy way to charge from the truck alternator (heavier gauge wire)

Also look at the connectors. Is the copper in the wire visible and still clean and shiny or is it dull and greenish. Then follow the wire to the junction box which is usually on the front of the trailer. Look at the wire there. If any of the connections are dull and especially the ones turning green, you are not actually transmitting the most power possible through that wire (corrosion makes resistance which drops the voltage).

This is the rats nest I'm going to fix this coming week with all new connectors, breakers, etc... Corrosion is not your friend. A lot of trailers are wired this way at the tongue. This is a 2015 model made in February 2015.

[moose074]

When I boondocked with my TT in the past I left it hooked to the truck until it was leveled up and all the slides were out. Then a few hours before bed I checked battery level if below 50 or 1/3 mark hooked truck back up and let it charge. I learned that from my dad who stayed out weeks at time as a fire watch for different logging companies in the early 90’s. My batteries always appeared to charge and my battery never died but I was never out more than 3 nights Since I bought my 5th wheel I invested in a couple small generators from northern tools . Don’t remember how but basically got two for price of one. That said I have owned them for close to 3 years used them once dry camping for 2 nights and 3 times around the house so about $100 each time I used them. That said one time was so I could weld broken welds on my fence so it’s not all bad

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by streittk

D'oh! So the TV is the thing that pulls my TT. I think I'm getting this now!

It sounds like your new to all of this so I want to welcome you to the RV lifestyle. One of our members made up this post, New to RV's helpful hints that will be of use to you.

This forum has a Library section that has many documents concerning the appliances in your trailer that you can browse at your leisure. I have attached a pdf file with many of the acronyms you will come across when it comes to campers.

[Rik in SoCAL]

I have a 2010 26TBSS with a single battery. It works the slide fine when its charged and right after a trip. Same situation 90% hookups when i camp. I thought about a second battery and would love a generator but have not really needed. Hook up to your car to the trailer if low or use a portable jumpstarter/charger (a must have w/light inverter, compressor, USB) Even if I disconnect the battery for a couple months it needs a charge (I need it for my electric jack). U have to remember to bring the battery home and charge.

[richardbrucewinquestjr]

You could always purchase a portable power supply and keep it charged at home then take it with you plus this would always provide you with a backup for....

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by dward51

I don't think anyone pointed this out yet. There are some things in the trailer that will continue to draw power from the battery when everything is turned off and it's just sitting. Depending on how long it sits, this can drain the bulk of the charge on the battery. One example is the sensors for propane inside the trailer. It runs all the time.

If you don't have a battery disconnect switch, the easy thing to do is take the negative lead off at the battery (it's probably the white wire, as most trailers use black for positive and white for negative unlike cars that use black for negative and red for positive - just look at the markings on your battery). The battery will still "self discharge" some if it's a standard lead acid battery (sealed or not), but unhooking the lead will make it last as long as possible and it only takes a second to reconnect it. The battery on my TT will move our slide.

So I would take it home or charge on site, and then see if it works like you want for longer with a charged battery and then unhook it before you leave. It will charge from the tow vehicle as long as your fuse is not blown (not uncommon). Either get a plug in 7way tester ($10 or so) or use a multi-meter to make sure you have 12v power at the 7way hookup. If you do, it will charge. But depending on how discharged the battery is, it may take a while. Leave the truck motor running when charging this way or you could drain the truck battery also! Jumper cables would probably be the easy way to charge from the truck alternator (heavier gauge wire)

Also look at the connectors. Is the copper in the wire visible and still clean and shiny or is it dull and greenish. Then follow the wire to the junction box which is usually on the front of the trailer. Look at the wire there. If any of the connections are dull and especially the ones turning green, you are not actually transmitting the most power possible through that wire (corrosion makes resistance which drops the voltage).

This is the rats nest I'm going to fix this coming week with all new connectors, breakers, etc... Corrosion is not your friend. A lot of trailers are wired this way at the tongue. This is a 2015 model made in February 2015.

In my motor home, even when I turn off the master switch the battery is still being drawn on and over time will run down. I could not determine what was still drawing power so I installed a disconnect switch directly at the battery (breaking the ground connection). Now I can store the RV for extended periods and the batteries do not drain.

[Pillboxmc]

Originally Posted by streittk

D'oh! So the TV is the thing that pulls my TT. I think I'm getting this now!

Yep, I always say the abrevations out loud!
Somewhere in the forum someone posted a list of meanings.