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Old 01-22-2016, 04:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
Our dealer has installed two for us (different trailers)...... Work great no issues, in my opinion since some have had issues with factory installed flushes dealer installed are better. Actually if they do leak later it is an easy fix.......

Have them throw it into the deal its not an expensive up grade.


Oaklevel brings up a good point about getting in thrown into the deal. We are complete newbs, so we will be needing a WD hitch and all the basic items. Besides the tank flush, anything else you all suggest to try to get throw in or at least talked down?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:48 PM   #22
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WAND - What do you do when it's not a straight shot into the tank (as is very common on many 5ers.
"PORT" - connects to a spray nozzle attachment mounted to tank side (Google Tornado Fixture)
"Check Valve" - It's an air gap. Because there's an air gap between the black tank flush port and the tank, it is perfectly fine for the black tank flush port to be below the level of the black tank.
Flush port Below Black Tank is NOT the proper location! Check valve failure means Sewage flowing out of the garden hose port! Port Must be higher than the Black Tank! Youroo!! The Next person using that fresh Water supply is wanting Safe Water not Contaminated!
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Old 01-22-2016, 09:18 PM   #23
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Yes, Black tank flush is a must have!
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:34 PM   #24
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Oaklevel brings up a good point about getting in thrown into the deal. We are complete newbs, so we will be needing a WD hitch and all the basic items. Besides the tank flush, anything else you all suggest to try to get throw in or at least talked down?



Thanks

I had max air covers put on all vents and the bed slide with a topper. Cost to them is minimal on the covers but I didn't want to have to do it while working too. They call back in 5 minutes to agree with no price increase.


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Old 01-23-2016, 08:51 AM   #25
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When the factory check valve, in the vanity, started leak'n in this unit, I went to HD and bought a brass backflow valve for a house....did away with 12' of extra hose, and inserted the new valve in the factory line
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Old 01-23-2016, 06:42 PM   #26
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On all my previous RVs, no. But, for some reason my Wildcat black tank doesn't drain well. Since it has the built-in flush, I find it useful.
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:02 PM   #27
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More water...
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Old 01-23-2016, 07:31 PM   #28
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Well we ordered the unit today and made sure it had a black tank flush on it. They said they would put a Tornado on it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:55 PM   #29
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I would hate to not have one on my unit. Pretty simple to hook up a hose to flush the black tank.
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Old 01-25-2016, 01:19 AM   #30
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Flush port Below Black Tank is NOT the proper location! Check valve failure means Sewage flowing out of the garden hose port! Port Must be higher than the Black Tank! Youroo!! The Next person using that fresh Water supply is wanting Safe Water not Contaminated!
And where do you think the garden hose connection to the RV is? It's below the level of the "Flush port" connection - all you've got is a solid hose connection all the way from the park's garden hose bib, through the garden hose, through the flush port (which is simply a gasketed hose connection), through the manual shut-off valve, to the back flow preventer (The thing everyone's incorrectly referring to as a check valve, and which has to be above the highest part of the black tank), then on to the black tank. To contaminate the park water system, you would have to have the black water drain closed, completely fill the black tank until the flush nozzle within the tank is completely submerged, the back flow preventer would have to fail, you would have to leave the garden hose attached to the park bib, and the manual valve at the flush port connection would have to be left open. Highly unlikely. Locating the flush port connector below the tank makes no difference.
If you want to protect the park's fresh water supply, you should use a back-flow preventer on the park end of your black water flush hose.
And what keeps us from contaminating the park water system if we attach one of those back-flushing gate valve attachments at our drain outlet??? Without a back-flow preventer at the park bib, you're still in a position to contaminate the park supply.
It should be standard practice for the park to have backflow preventers at the hose bib, but I've only seen it at one park.
I believe plumbing codes now require this backflow prevention on all outside hose connections.
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Old 01-25-2016, 05:33 AM   #31
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I am sorry I have Never read any Posts of the (Backflow preventer/Check valve) failing on Any F/R units! Campground hydrants having Back-flow preventers run about 50%,depends if State or private ,yes plumbing codes say outlets Must have B/F preventer's,but Most are Poorly Enforced! I think the FLINT Water situation will bring Water Codes Enforcement back to the Front! Youroo!!
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Old 01-26-2016, 09:48 AM   #32
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My wash dosent work, new trailer. Looked at back flow preventer, its plumbed backwards to youroos picture. Another project! Attachment youroos pic.
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Old 01-26-2016, 01:13 PM   #33
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Youroo, sorry but I guess you can't say never now! A friend of mine has a 2015 Xlr Nitro 5'ER and his black water tank flush was not working. Turns out, his check valve was installed backwards from the factory.

Happy rving to all!
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:09 PM   #34
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Youroo, sorry but I guess you can't say never now! A friend of mine has a 2015 Xlr Nitro 5'ER and his black water tank flush was not working. Turns out, his check valve was installed backwards from the factory.

Happy rving to all!
Youroo!!
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:24 PM   #35
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Mine started leak'n, so I install one for a house

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Old 01-26-2016, 07:41 PM   #36
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There is a RV test web site where a guy tests all the different types. The in tank sprayer/ cleaner does a superior job and is well worth the extra cost. The videos and testing he does is also very entertaining.. Www.thefitrv.com
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