Hose connections for water pump

[oldtool2]

This my fourth Forest River trailer, second fifth wheel. This is the only one I have seen this extra valve and hose on.

At first I thought it was for blowing out the water lines when winterizing. Then I realized I could put the hose into a 5 gallon jug and use it for fresh water. The pump would draw from it instead of the FW tank.

Then, in another thread here, I read where some members use their pump to add water to the FW tank from a 5 gallon jug. I don't see any way to do this though. Am I missing something? I could add another three way valve, short hose and a tee but what advantage would there be?

Jim

[Mr. Dan]

This rig doesn't look like mine, but I suspect it's the input for RV antifreeze during the winterization process.

That's a pretty severe hose crimp you have at the pump!

[jeff64]

X 2 !
My previous Jaycos were plumbed that way too. With selector valve in position shown, water is pulled from potable tank. Rotated 90 deg suction is out of the hose which would go into antifreeze jug

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

This rig doesn't look like mine, but I suspect it's the input for RV antifreeze during the winterization process.

That's a pretty severe hose crimp you have at the pump!

X2 on both! Youroo!!

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

This rig doesn't look like mine, but I suspect it's the input for RV antifreeze during the winterization process.

That's a pretty severe hose crimp you have at the pump!

Thanks for the quick response. I noticed the hose problem and have fixed it already. Why would you add antifreeze to the water lines if you can blow them out? You only need to add it to the traps.

Jim

[youroo]

If you think the (Miles of Pex) in our units don't have (Dips) that retain water after Blowing Good Luck! Better (Safe than Sorry) come spring using Both! Your choice! Youroo!!

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by jeff64

X 2 !
My previous Jaycos were plumbed that way too. With selector valve in position shown, water is pulled from potable tank. Rotated 90 deg suction is out of the hose which would go into antifreeze jug

Again, why would you do that if you can blow the water lines out? If you blow the lines dry it doesn't make sense to add water, even with antifreeze, back in the lines.

If I couldn't get the lines dry then I could see where it would be a good idea. I normally blow my lines with 60 pounds of air till nothing comes out. Then wait a day and do it again. The second time gets rid of any condensation that might lay in a low spot. This will also blow your hot water tank out.

NOTE: Make sure your hot water tank is turned off, both gas and 110 volt electric!

Jim

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by youroo

If you think the (Miles of Pex) in our units don't have (Dips) that retain water after Blowing Good Luck! Better (Safe than Sorry) come spring using Both! Your choice! Youroo!!

I know they do! That's why I blow the lines a day apart. By doing this never had a problem with my previous trailers.

You do have a good point though, rather spend a couple bucks on antifreeze than try to find and fix a broken line.

Jim

[Grampa Jim]

It's used for the option of antifreezing OR if you want to blow out the lines. You can do either one. I like the antifreeze route....then you KNOW there's no cracked piping under some spot you can't even get to.

[RudysWorld]

The instructions I have read for winterizing say to blow out the lines first then add antifreeze, so you don't mix water with antifreeze. I know a lot of people only do one or the other. Since I am below the mason Dixon line I blow out lines and add antifreeze to p traps. Good luck!

[Lloydg]

I've know several folks in the upper northern regions where there are several days of below zero degree day/nights and like the added insurance of both blowing out the lines and adding anti-freeze. It doesn't take that much time and is what I do. But hey, wait! What the heck am thinking about winterizing at this time of year!!!

[Grampa Jim]

pump the antifreeze in with the faucets open until antifreeze comes out the faucet.

[txredfish]

You could also use this line to pump a mixture of bleach and water in order to sanitize your rig. I did that on my previous RV.

[walljammer]

blowing the lines does not get to the water pump itself you need to suck in some antifreeze for that so that the pump itself will be protected.

[drelec]

We also open and close ball valves to get the water out of the valve. I have seen that small column of water in the valve crack the valve when it freezes.

[pmsherman]

Get a faucet to hose adapter from any hardware store, hook it up to your bathroom sink in place of the aerator and run a water hose to the fresh water fill port. Turn on the faucet, set the valve to draw water from the jug and you can use the system's water pump to fill the fresh water tank.

The only time I've done this is when I was camping at a NP and they didn't allow hooking a hose up to the hydrant to refill your fresh water tank. five trips with two 5-gal water cans refilled the tank. two 5-gal jugs full of water weighs around 80lbs so I use a folding cart to transport them.

Phil

[satdog01]

Folks, might check your winterization instruction if you have them! Mine say definitely do not use air to purge water lines! I use about 4 gallons of the pink stuff and the factory installed antifreeze inlet! Turn on one facet at a time, let it run pink on both hot and cold after by passing the water heater. Letting a pint or so of pink run, should take care of the drain traps. Kill electric to water heater, drain through anode then flush with water to remove any sentiment from tank. Wait a couple of days then tape and replace anode. Using this procedure for about 10 years with no issues. With the use of pex fittings would be a repair I would like to avoid if damage did occur from the use of air. Happy camping!

[Papa-t]

Been camping for 33 years now. I've seen problems with "just blowing out the lines". It's so easy with winterizing with RV antifreeze. Like stated you won't and I say again "you won't" get all the water out with just blowing out the lines. When you use RV antifreeze then there's no worry. I'd rather spend a little to do it right then have one little joint behind the wall freeze and burst.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by satdog01

Folks, might check your winterization instruction if you have them! Mine say definitely do not use air to purge water lines!

I've see the debates on blowing out the lines vs using the pink stuff vs doing both but never in my life have I heard anyone say not to use air to blow out the lines. I can't even think of a reason not too.

What manufacturer recommends not doing it?

[Tireguy397]

I agree with youroo. You can't remove all of the water by blowing the lines. After draining and by passing my water heater I blow the lines and it takes less than 3 gallons of rv antifreeze at 6 bucks each to fill them. $18 is a cheap price to pay compared to plumbing repairs from frozen lines. All of us rv owners need peace of mind when we can get it.