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Old 12-27-2017, 06:38 PM   #21
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Good work!
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
X3







Haaa! Awesome I learned something today. Actually I guess I have more respect learning this because that as a lug wrench is a total joke.

Also count myself lucky I’ve never had to manually retract the stabilizers yet...I know someday I will need to, guess I know which wrench to grab. Thanks guys!
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:46 PM   #23
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So I purposefully didn’t ask for tire recommendations up front because that horse has been beaten to death...but now that I’m researching it, I see on tirerack.com a brand called Power King (towmax str II) - specifically for trailer service (load F). Any experience with this, or should I pass on this?
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:18 PM   #24
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So I purposefully didn’t ask for tire recommendations up front because that horse has been beaten to death...but now that I’m researching it, I see on tirerack.com a brand called Power King (towmax str II) - specifically for trailer service (load F). Any experience with this, or should I pass on this?
Another China Bomb.
Buy Goodyear G614 14 ply if your rig is real heavy, Maxxis M8008's or Goodyear endurance for smaller rig.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Rollingthunder View Post
So I purposefully didn’t ask for tire recommendations up front because that horse has been beaten to death...but now that I’m researching it, I see on tirerack.com a brand called Power King (towmax str II) - specifically for trailer service (load F). Any experience with this, or should I pass on this?
IMHO, pass on the Towmax. I replaced my Towmax tires when the trailer was new with Maxxis 8008. Never a problem.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:21 PM   #26
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Yeah I just saw that: country of origin China! I’ll stick with the Maxxis, I’m about 11k lbs loaded. Thanks all!
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:08 PM   #27
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Last spring I uncovered my trailer and prepared it for the upcoming season of travel. When I took my tire covers off I inspected the tires inside and out, checked the air pressure, and torqued the lug nuts. No sign of the impending doom. On our first trip out blew a factory installed China bomb, (Goodyear Marathon),about 30 miles from home. Changed the tire and inspected the damage. Tore up the bottom portion of my slide out, and the shredded portion of the tire took out the hydraulic lines on my self leveling jacks. Glad I was so close to home. It took almost 4 months to get replacement parts for the slide out, get the paint to match, and the installation of the new hydraulic lines. I replaced all the tires with Goodyear Endurance and the second half of the season was uneventful and I wish I had done it earlier. The original tires were low mileage as it was a 2016 FR Cardinal. By the way, if you are buying a new trailer, check the date code on the tires. I discovered that my 2016 Cardinal came from the factory with tires with a mfg. date 2014. Already too deep into the recommended length of time to keep tires. If they aren't the right date, have them changed out with NEW tires.
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Old 12-27-2017, 11:46 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by card16 View Post
Last spring I uncovered my trailer and prepared it for the upcoming season of travel. When I took my tire covers off I inspected the tires inside and out, checked the air pressure, and torqued the lug nuts. No sign of the impending doom. On our first trip out blew a factory installed China bomb, (Goodyear Marathon),about 30 miles from home. Changed the tire and inspected the damage. Tore up the bottom portion of my slide out, and the shredded portion of the tire took out the hydraulic lines on my self leveling jacks. Glad I was so close to home. It took almost 4 months to get replacement parts for the slide out, get the paint to match, and the installation of the new hydraulic lines. I replaced all the tires with Goodyear Endurance and the second half of the season was uneventful and I wish I had done it earlier. The original tires were low mileage as it was a 2016 FR Cardinal. By the way, if you are buying a new trailer, check the date code on the tires. I discovered that my 2016 Cardinal came from the factory with tires with a mfg. date 2014. Already too deep into the recommended length of time to keep tires. If they aren't the right date, have them changed out with NEW tires.


Oh my goodness...it’s stories like that, that have made me paranoid. Who cares about the tire, that’s the least of my concerns, it’s the carnage after the blowout that scares me. Glad you were able to be made whole, even if it took half a year, wow!
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Old 12-28-2017, 08:10 AM   #29
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A good torque wrench is a must as well. After a tire change the lug nuts need to be torqued a couple of times till they set in then just periodically is good. Good find on the tire bubble. Many of us have seen the damage a blown tire can cause.
There's a better way...

When I was in my teens my Dad taught me how to torque wheel lug nuts properly. He learned himself at a young age from a heavy equipment mechanic, who explained that fasteners torqued in this way can be relied upon not to loosen... especially useful when they're difficult to get at. The method is a combination of pattern and gradual application of torque. I've used it since the first time I put a wheel on a car and it has served me well.

The torque pattern is pretty simple:







In combination with the pattern is the gradual application of torque. One third of the spec for all lugs, then two thirds, then full torque.
So when I'm installing a trailer tire, here's my procedure:
  1. Place the tire on the hub - I usually do this from a sitting position, balancing the tire on my feet.
  2. Finger-tighten the lug nuts while shifting the tire with my feet - this helps to ensure that the cones of the lug nuts centre the wheels on the lugs. I repeat this, moving from one nut to another, until all are finger-tight. At this point I'll snug them up a bit more with breaker bar and socket, but not much.
  3. Lower the trailer until all the weight is on the tires.
  4. Set the torque wrench to one third of the spec. In my case, 33 lb-ft (the spec is 100 lb-ft) and torque the lug nuts in the pattern shown above.
  5. Set the torque wrench to two thirds (66 ft-lb) and torque the nuts in the same pattern.
  6. Set the torque wrench to the full spec (100 ft-lb) and torque in the pattern once more.
Nowadays it's common for car and RV repair shops to warn you to check lug nut torque after driving for 100 km. With this method, that's not necessary; I've done spot checks and have never found a loose lug nut. And when I get a vehicle back from such a shop, I always loosen and re-torque the wheels this way.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:12 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Rollingthunder View Post
Oh my goodness...it’s stories like that, that have made me paranoid. Who cares about the tire, that’s the least of my concerns, it’s the carnage after the blowout that scares me. Glad you were able to be made whole, even if it took half a year, wow!

The other thing you can do to try and avoid carnage/damage is to invest in a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). They aren’t 100% or foolproof, but they definitely help in a vast majority of situations that a problem is building or alert you quickly that something bad happened.

http://learntorv.com/how-and-why-to-...tire-pressure/
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:05 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Rollingthunder View Post
So I purposefully didn’t ask for tire recommendations up front because that horse has been beaten to death...but now that I’m researching it, I see on tirerack.com a brand called Power King (towmax str II) - specifically for trailer service (load F). Any experience with this, or should I pass on this?
That is the brand I took off of my Crusader. I called them "Blowmaxes".
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:18 AM   #32
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Also remember tire age is a very important factor.
At six years from the manufacturer date its time for new tires. I know tires will sometimes go another year or so.
But its not worth the chance. I'm speaking from experience . Blow out...middle of no where....no shoulder...no cell service..bad back.. need I say more.
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Old 12-28-2017, 03:53 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Restcure View Post
There's a better way...

When I was in my teens my Dad taught me how to torque wheel lug nuts properly. He learned himself at a young age from a heavy equipment mechanic, who explained that fasteners torqued in this way can be relied upon not to loosen... especially useful when they're difficult to get at. The method is a combination of pattern and gradual application of torque. I've used it since the first time I put a wheel on a car and it has served me well.

The torque pattern is pretty simple:







In combination with the pattern is the gradual application of torque. One third of the spec for all lugs, then two thirds, then full torque.
So when I'm installing a trailer tire, here's my procedure:
  1. Place the tire on the hub - I usually do this from a sitting position, balancing the tire on my feet.
  2. Finger-tighten the lug nuts while shifting the tire with my feet - this helps to ensure that the cones of the lug nuts centre the wheels on the lugs. I repeat this, moving from one nut to another, until all are finger-tight. At this point I'll snug them up a bit more with breaker bar and socket, but not much.
  3. Lower the trailer until all the weight is on the tires.
  4. Set the torque wrench to one third of the spec. In my case, 33 lb-ft (the spec is 100 lb-ft) and torque the lug nuts in the pattern shown above.
  5. Set the torque wrench to two thirds (66 ft-lb) and torque the nuts in the same pattern.
  6. Set the torque wrench to the full spec (100 ft-lb) and torque in the pattern once more.
Nowadays it's common for car and RV repair shops to warn you to check lug nut torque after driving for 100 km. With this method, that's not necessary; I've done spot checks and have never found a loose lug nut. And when I get a vehicle back from such a shop, I always loosen and re-torque the wheels this way.
That is the same method I learnt as a kid. It is also the method tire fitters here in Oz use (normally).
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:04 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
The other thing you can do to try and avoid carnage/damage is to invest in a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS). They aren’t 100% or foolproof, but they definitely help in a vast majority of situations that a problem is building or alert you quickly that something bad happened.

How and Why to Monitor Tire Pressure | Learn To RV
Tire monitors are a wonderful thing, when they work. Out of the eight on our rig, two always play up. I have swapped the truck 4 for the van 4, swapped them from wheel to wheel, just so that I can get a reliable device on the most important tires, the truck rear and the van. The front tires on the truck never seem to change (except when one had a leak due to a neat ice-pick hole in the side wall. Sometimes the batteries last about a month, a few may last the whole of a 3 month trip. They are a blessing and an annoyance.

The beeping in the cab from the monitor because an individual sensor has decided to malfunction drives us nuts some days. Changing the sensors on the wheels usually means you have to reset the sequence on the monitor. This is an arduous task and I no longer do it. We take note of what number sensor is on which wheel and wing it from there.
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