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Old 03-30-2023, 01:23 PM   #21
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Model number nonsense. My Roo 23SS is no more than 18 feet long.

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Old 03-30-2023, 01:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird View Post
You're on the right site. Your original post gave lots of useful information. We just sometimes wander in our replies because everyone is trying to help.

You said you don't use the appliances, so you should be fine storing it with the side to side unlevel and the tongue not level.

Just make certain you pull it out and make it level BEFORE you put out the slide or turn on the refrigerator. Monitoring it so that it doesn't sink into the yard is also a good idea, but you probably already knew that.
I appreciate yours and others input to my concerns. It gives me a little peace of mind so that I don't have to spend a lot of time leveling it while it's in the yard.

HOWEVER, I do see a key point addressed in some of the replies about using the fridge. I've had a few people tell me to get the refrigerator running the day before a trip. That would warrant getting it level to be able to do that. I guess I could use some 2X8 boards to get it level, flag/mark exactly how to position them and just try to park it the same after every trip. That way the fridge wouldn't be an issue to pre-cool it before trips.
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Old 04-03-2023, 06:47 PM   #23
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when i was parking my TT on non level ground (at home), it took about a year of doing so....but eventually, I noticed some of the inside doors didn't want to close properly. I chalked it up to some sag occurring from leaving it parked for extended periods on unlevel ground. Maybe that assumption was incorrect, but that was my assumption. I went to the trouble of leveling (side to side) the parking spot and I've not had such trouble with my new TT. I think there COULD be some effect like I'm describing if you LONG TERM park on unlevel ground?

Just my thinking anyway.............but I could be wrong and just jumping to conclusions....but I don't think so...........
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Old 04-03-2023, 07:16 PM   #24
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I store nose high a few inches. The faster rain water can drain off the less time it has to sit on and get into any new cracks/tears in the roof I have not seen yet.
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Old 04-03-2023, 07:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX View Post
Why is it that folks keep using Dry Weight numbers for their RV?

Those numbers were valid when the RV left the factory. After that, things and stuff were added and the dry weight numbers are no longer applicable, other than numbers filling a blank space on the placard.

Using Dry Weight is really kidding yourself into believing something false.

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We are talking about leveling not dry weight. What post are you talking about?
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Old 04-03-2023, 07:54 PM   #26
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We are talking about leveling not dry weight. What post are you talking about?
Some of the earlier posts, including the first one, referenced dry weight.

I suppose one could reference dry weight and then add the options, accessories, and camping gear. I prefer to use maximum weight and figure I would not go over that. Our trip to the scales confirmed that. I have no information as to actual "dry weight" numbers other than what is on the label on the side.

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Old 04-03-2023, 08:32 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by GoldDot40 View Post
As the title says, how important is it to have my travel trailer level when it's sitting in the yard unused?

2020 Salem 178bhsk...23ft length and ~3500lbs dry weight.

My yard has zero flat spots. I best position I have available, the unit sits about 2½ inches lower on the LEFT side vs right. The tongue also sits close to 3 inches low. Should I make the effort to get my wood planks under it as needed to get it as close as I can to level? I don't operate the slide or any appliances when not camping. I have it hooked to power from the house to maintain the battery, but that's it.

Input? Opinions? Facts?
For storage only (w/o fridge running) you will be fine as long as wheels are well chocked.

I would not run fridge at all if it’s not very close to level. I’m old school even though present day fridges are a little more forgiving.
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Old 04-03-2023, 08:40 PM   #28
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Years before finally pouring a concrete slab, the trailer sat when unused beside the garage. Alot of rain would cause the slide side to sink a little. I'd pull it ahead time to time and fill the rut but always had a slight lean. Kept front to back close to level with the jack. Never a real problem , just cleaner with a slab. How important ? Not too , except which direction you want rain water to drain off.
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Old 04-03-2023, 10:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bob K4TAX View Post
Some of the earlier posts, including the first one, referenced dry weight.

I suppose one could reference dry weight and then add the options, accessories, and camping gear. I prefer to use maximum weight and figure I would not go over that. Our trip to the scales confirmed that. I have no information as to actual "dry weight" numbers other than what is on the label on the side.

Bob
Ok I will factor that in when leveling my rig next time.
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Old 04-04-2023, 10:05 AM   #30
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People have mentioned the fridge. But haven't seen any mention on slides. It's not a good idea to take your slide in and out when the trailer isn't level. Me personally I would try to level it as best as possible. That way when you are planning a trip you turn your fridge on and use your slides.
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Old 04-07-2023, 10:57 AM   #31
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I live in the mountains, so a level parking spot for anything is laughable at best. In my case, I found the most reasonably level spot on the property closest to the house, then I used slabs of 2x6 lumber under the downhill tire to keep the trailer reasonably level.

I do have the stabilizer jacks down, each resting on a vertical chunk of log (because I do go in there once in awhile since it's new and I'm still outfitting/modding it), and I'll likely keep using them as well.

I do have all appliances off (main batt. switch is off when not in use), but I agree with everyone else in that it helps overall.

In my opinion, it helps...

- in winterizing/dewinterizing, since it ensures that the plumbing low-spot truly remains the low-spot.

- if/when you pre-cool the fridge before a campout.

- by balancing (and in extreme cases easing) tire and wheel stresses when you level it laterally (and longitudinally if you have dual axles). Otherwise the downhill tires/wheels take on a greater stress, especially if the trailer leans to one side.

- by making it easier to remove the chocks on the downhill side.

- in one aspect makes it easier to withstand extreme weather (if your trailer leans hard to one side, a strong enough windstorm could knock it over entirely.)

- keeps stuff in your cabinets from tending downhill, making loading, unloading, upkeep, etc much easier.

- for many folks, a level RV won't induce vertigo like an off-kilter one will. Even a somewhat slight two inch drop per 10 ft will induce vertigo in some people, because while it looks straight, the inner ear will say that something is off.

It doesn't hurt to do the due diligence and level the thing - any more than it would take to level it at the campsite.
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Old 04-07-2023, 11:25 AM   #32
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From our experience in traveling, camping, and storage, even for a few days or a few months, having the unit level is always best. Of course, if it is outside one may desire to have a slight tilt of 2 to 4 degrees to allow precipitation to run off.

The final rule in my book; it is my mess to use and abuse. And I expect to pay for the consequences along the way.

Bob
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Old 04-07-2023, 12:15 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Chuck_S View Post
Model number nonsense. My Roo 23SS is no more than 18 feet long.

-- Chuck
...and my NoBo 19.2 is 22 feet long.

Sometimes the manufacturer counts only the body length and calls that the model number, sometimes they count body+tongue+bumper and use that, sometimes they just make up the number.
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Old 04-07-2023, 12:39 PM   #34
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...and my NoBo 19.2 is 22 feet long.



Sometimes the manufacturer counts only the body length and calls that the model number, sometimes they count body+tongue+bumper and use that, sometimes they just make up the number.
There is no standaed, as to how they come up with model numbers.
That's why you should never assume that it correlates to the actual length of the RV.

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