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Old 03-26-2020, 09:18 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Eric H. View Post
Ive never seen a scale used to fill a tank in California. Every place I've been in 20 years has an old school mechanical gauge on the pump that rotates as the fuel is delivered like an old gas pump that you have to reset before each use.


The distributor we use at work uses the same method when filling our 15-20 tanks for forklifts and space heaters.
I've always seen my tank set on a scale the counter you mentioned is used to determine how much LP I got and thus the bill.
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Old 03-27-2020, 12:14 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Kchula-Rrit View Post
Thanks, everyone, for your responses and advice.

We'll figure on hefting the tanks as long as we can. Several people have suggested swapping the 30-pound tanks for 20-pound tanks, but I'm not sure that would work.

We ran the furnace and it heated the trailer quite nicely. Then we left the furnace on during a cold snap last weekend so that nothing would freeze. The temperature went down to 12 degrees at night and got to the mid twenties for a few days. Even though the furnace was set as low as it could go, the two 30-pound tanks were depleted in about five days, or maybe a week.

Is this normal propane consumption?

Also, we discovered a heating vent in the cargo hold, which we closed.

K-R.
Normally, I think the heating vent you closed off in the bay is used to help prevent you water lines and possibly your black/gray tanks from freezing. You might want to consider opening it back up. Could get messy if you don't.
Also if you had water in your water heater you probably should leave that running with either gas/shore power as well. Plus any tank heaters your unit might have. Generally tank heater will only come on when temps go below 40 degrees if switches are on.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:31 AM   #43
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New RV tanks normally dealers fill them as part of the preparation and testing of RV before you take delivery. I worked as a RV tec for several years that’s bad on them. When filling new tanks the vent screw must be open to vent the air as the tank fills. If air gets trapped inside tanks it will effect your appliances operation.
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Old 03-27-2020, 03:06 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
Assuming you are replying to post #20?
We have several 100# propane tanks to use during the winter boondocking. They are about 4' tall and a a little larger in diameter than 30# tanks.
I believe I have heard that people have rented portable propane tanks from suppliers during the winter. Contact your local propane distributor and see if the will rent a small tank so that you can run to one side of your automatic gas change over valve with a bit of a longer hose and one of the 30 lb. tanks still attached to thee other side in the compartment.

The distributor then can come and fill the bigger tank as it is needed.

Run on the 30 lb. tank when the bigger one is empty and refill it as necessary.
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Old 03-27-2020, 03:24 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Lighting546 View Post
Above the compartment that the LPG tanks are in on a 5th wheel is usually the bedroom, so if you have a leak the first place it's going to go is into the bedroom, hopefully you're not sleeping when/if it happens.

Most RV dealers now a days will only do a pre-delivery orientation/inspection (PDI) if you pay them $799 for that option.
Not in my neck of the woods.
My preferred dealer and two others I worked with in November do not charge for the PDI.

Is it padded into the price?... maybe... but if I'm happy with the price... what difference.

I would never buy a unit where a PDI/Customer Orientation wasn't performed, regardless of how you do/do not pay for it.
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Old 03-27-2020, 05:56 PM   #46
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PDI, Pre Delivery Inspection. I'm not going to pay for the right to inspect my RV and make sure it is acceptable, before I sign the paperwork and take ownership.
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:26 PM   #47
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I just passed 77 and I hope I'm still dealing with my propane tanks in another 5 years. I've found I can still handle things like the tanks and my generator, I just need to be creative and not be in as big a rush.

One tip that works for me when lifting heavier items is to have a way to stop and "reset" when about half way up in the lifting process. I have a couple of plastic milk bottle crates that I set up so I can lift, set the load on a crate, reset my lifting position and grip, then continue on up making the legs do the work rather than my back. For my 100#+ generator I use one crate for the first step then two crates for the second, and from there I finish the lift to my tailgate. Luckily I don't lift it often but it's nice to know I still can

Hey Mike, I see you changed your signature.....Was wondering.. if you are still political correct since 1943...LOL
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Old 03-28-2020, 10:28 AM   #48
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This wouldn't help in your situation but I learned a lesson from a more experienced RVer on our very first trip in our 5er. We were in Cody, WY in June and it snowed. The temp dropped to below 20, so I turned on the furnace and kept it on all night and the next day. That night I ran out of propane. (We hadn't refilled since leaving the east coast) The guy in he next campsite told me a lot of folks carry electric space heaters to use on cold nights. He said it also lets the campground pay for the heat. I'm sure this approach doesn't please campground owners, and it won't keep the stuff in the basement from freezing, but since then we carry 2 small space heaters and have rarely needed to use the furnace.
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