Pics/mods for parking RV on sloped drive

[Deanm]

I have a 8-10k# 31' TT to park on a screened milling drive I just installed . It has a 2% - 3% grade I measured using a 2'x10' and the "Angle Pro" app on my Iphone.

The Drive is getting harder and harder as it dries and I drive on it more.

I'm looking for pics / mods / advice of/from anyone's methods for safely securing/ chocking their RV on their sloped drive. ( I realize a paved drive would be easier, maybe some of you are doing on a gravel or milling drive ? ) Chock types ? Home made chocks? lets see them !

I want to have it completely level to be able to use fridge and slide out.

[Kacz]

I got a set of the tri-lynx levelers, tops and chocks and when I park on my sloped driveway I back as far as I can, then set up a small block/ramp/chock for just the front wheels of my trailer - I pull onto them and this keeps my wheels pretty level, I then jack the front up as needed. Not sure of my slope but back end is usually inches from the ground, and front is feet from the ground but sits nice and level. The main reason I do this is so than when on the slope my tandem axle is still relatively level - i understand it to be bad for the rocking hanger to have the one axle loaded heavy from the slope for a long period of time, which is the case without me getting the front wheels up a few inches.


In the pic the front tires are up and on the tri-lynx setup and the back tires are on the driveway and chocked. you can just about see the rear jack barely open while the front jacks are fully deployed with about 8 or 9 leveler blocks under them. Also my driveway starts on a gradual slope that increases (or is it decreases?) further toward the street - sorry this is the best pic I have of the set up.

[cmysstailights]

My drvwy is sloped, chuck the tires. Built up a block to put under the tongue jack and make it level that way. Block is about 7 inches high. The pic is before its leveled.

[Oaklevel]

When I had the fifth wheel the front was almost as low as the landing legs would go in front and the back was at least 3 feet above the ground I just used x type chocks and regular wedge chocks. It was level and would not go anywhere.

It was a pain as I had to raise the front 2 feet to hitch up. I do not have pictures though I don't think.

[Deanm]

Thanx for the replies,

I'm wondering if the axles/suspension being uneven for extended periods of time will effect them in a negative way. And if constructing some type of leveler/ chock would be beneficial.

[B and B]

Youroo has some large chock and levelling blocks. They look like they were for trucks, may want to look him up.

[itat]

When we had our Roo, this is how I parked it in our driveway. It was only there for a night or two though. It obviously was too big to leave there long term.



I had to use a two-step process. I raised it about as high as the jack would go and set the A frame on axle stands. Raised the jack and put that stump under it and then raised it to level. The manual jack it came with was replaced very quickly after having to do this the first time. Notice the stacked wooden blocks I made for the stabilizers. I set the the axle stands on those during the setup process.

Putting a leveling block under the front tires would take some stress off the suspension.

Get some of these heavy rubber chocks from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-...ock-96479.html

[jackhartjr]

Please allow me to say this; if it CAN roll, it WILL ROLL.
Please chock the wheels so that you know it won't roll.
Don't ask me how I found out! Lol

[nomad297]

I wish I could find pictures of how I used to keep a previous trailer parked level on my severely-sloped #57 bluestone gravel driveway. The tongue height was right at four feet from the ground. To achieve this, I used 36” lengths of 8”x8” PT lumber. The first two pieces of 8”x8” were laid level, about 3” into the solid ground. I would use my tongue jack to raise the nose incrementally, then add more 8”x8”s until the cribbing was the correct height, minimizing the amount of jack tube length being used, making it very solid. I used X-Choks and lumber as wheel choks and used the stabilizers only as stabilizers—not as supports to keep the trailer high in the sky. It worked very well and was not dangerous as long as care (and concentration) was taken when removing the cribbing to hook it up to my truck.

Bruce

[itat]

Originally Posted by jackhartjr

Please allow me to say this; if it CAN roll, it WILL ROLL.
Please chock the wheels so that you know it won't roll.
Don't ask me how I found out! Lol

Sounds like you trusted the jack foot to hold it in place?! That wouldn't go well. I hope it just lunged forward and bumped the TV rather than running away from you backwards!

[jackhartjr]

Actually, it rolled back about 6 inches and stopped! Problem was, my sweetie was inside! I think she said words like gosh, dawggonnit, and shoot! Lol

[bob213]

My BIL lives in a lake community. Everyone has a boat or trailer on their very sloped driveways. As a safety precaution, many have dug down and poured a cement block with an eye hook to hook a chain to that they can use to secure their trailer in case a block fails or slips.

[Deanm]

Originally Posted by bob213

My BIL lives in a lake community. Everyone has a boat or trailer on their very sloped driveways. As a safety precaution, many have dug down and poured a cement block with an eye hook to hook a chain to that they can use to secure their trailer in case a block fails or slips.

I like this. I guess about a 2-3 foot post hole would do it, correct?

[cmysstailights]

Originally Posted by Deanm

I like this. I guess about a 2-3 foot post hole would do it, correct?

i would atleast dig down 4' and cement it.