Sway issue - need guidance

[johnw32]

I have a 2015 Crew Cab 4x4 Chevy Silverado
7100 GVWR
Payload 1564
Tow capacity is 9,200

Purchased a Tracer 285 Air
Dry 5,998

Using an Equalizer E2 Hitch system
8,000lbs capacity
800 tongue weight

I've been to the scales multiple times to fine tune the hitch, here is what I have:

With distribution
Steer: 3460
Drive: 3260
Trailer: 5820

Front of truck returned back to stock height
Back is within 1-2"
Trailer is within 1/8" level front to back

Truck by itself
Steer: 3400
Drive: 2740

11.9% tongue weight
760lbs

Trailer loaded weights 6,400

With family loaded I still have 150~ lbs of payload and well within 70% of tow capacity.

I bought this trailer for this truck based on all of the threads on weight distribution I've read, keeping it inside all limits and keeping the trailer lightly loaded.

Tires are all at cold rating
Yes the truck has the stock P-rated tires (not opposed to upgrading, but need to be confident that will help before making the investment)

The ride is actually pretty good now that I have the hitch adjusted, dealer had left it in a terrible position) Problem is I still have SWAY at anything over 50/55mph. Trailer tires are rated at 65, my goal is to comfortably be able to drive at 60-62mph on flat interstates.

So to all of the equalizer advocates, What step should I take next? Surely this set-up is capable of making a safe ride.

Thanks for your input.

[dannyabear]

I would try more tongue weight; 1/2" sag is not much for a 1500. As far as tires, why would a 4x4 have 'P' tires? Stand on the side of your truck and push it sideways by the tailgate and notice how much you can move it, now find a truck with LT tires and try the same thing, there is a world of difference.

[johnw32]

Sorry, to clarify, that was sagging 1 to 2 inches in back, not 1/2". I bought the truck new and these were the tires on it. I find a similar truck to compare it too.

[bikendan]

IMHO, a 8,000lbs E2 is too small for that size trailer. It's over 33' long.
That's way too much trailer for an E2.😨

I have a much smaller TracerAIR 255 and I'm using the 10,000lbs 4pt Equal-i-zer.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by dannyabear

I would try more tongue weight; 1/2" sag is not much for a 1500. As far as tires, why would a 4x4 have 'P' tires? Stand on the side of your truck and push it sideways by the tailgate and notice how much you can move it, now find a truck with LT tires and try the same thing, there is a world of difference.

Many 1/2 ton trucks come with "P" tires as standard. Nowhere on my doorpost stickers (2) or in my manual says what other tires I can put on my truck. P265/70R17 is the only ones listed. On my 2 previous trucks, both Dodge Dakota, I had the option of "P" or "LT". And they weren't 1/2 ton trucks.

[lbrjet]

Equal-i-zer advocates are usually speaking of the 4 point sway control hitch. Most of the sway control is in the design of the hitch head sockets which the E2 does not have. You can't really compare the two hitches from a sway control standpoint, but they are the same from a WDH standpoint.

[johnw32]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

Equal-i-zer advocates are usually speaking of the 4 point sway control hitch. Most of the sway control is in the design of the hitch head sockets which the E2 does not have. You can't really compare the two hitches from a sway control standpoint, but they are the same from a WDH standpoint.

Thanks for the clarification between 4 point and the E2 I was sold. Given their website only advertised the one, I thought it was all the same. Learning something new every day.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the E2 8k vs 10k other than bars? Is the head on the hitch or L-brackets different? I realize the 10k bars would be more rigid.

[Hack Driver]

I can't help with your particular brand of hitch, but I can throw out a few other issues and alternatives to consider. I've been towing trailers for ~50 years and have probably towed ~20 different RV trailers (TT & 5th Wheel) in that period. I've also towed at least another 30 types of utility, car, motorcycle, and boat trailers. Most of the RV travel trailers have initially given me problems and I've managed to 'dial them in' over time. Very few of them (maybe 2) towed like a 5th wheel. I try to pay attention to the causes and this is my general list:

• Road type (concrete, asphalt, and other surfaces) can affect the amount of sway during the same trip while the TT is loaded the same exact way. I just did 1,100 miles to Maine and back with a new Toyhauler TT, and had a horrible time with concrete roads.
• The road crown and other anomalies in the road surface can cause problems.
• Generally, many 'straight' trucks will push me to the outside and tractor trailers will suck me to them if they are moving fast. Some trucks pass without any issue.
• Tongue weight is critical. I always try for ~15%. I just ordered a scale to try and dial-in my new TT.
• Downhill runs will generally always be worse than uphill or level ground.
• In my case, new tires made a huge difference on my truck (2010 RAM 3500). It came with BF Goodrich which were very 'slippery' and danced around the road. I just put Michelin Defenders on it which are rock steady.

Where I'm heading with all of this, is that you do the best you can to get your setup right and then you have to manage your expectations. Even when they are setup right, most TTs will sway sometimes while running down the road due to the above factors. You'll develop 'muscle memory' after enough miles and won't notice the problem like you do now.


You can also look at other solutions like the inertial braking systems. An example would be the Hayes Sway Master Electronic Sway Control System. They will apply the trailer brakes when they sense unwanted movement. I've also used friction bars in the past (with a good result) in addition to a weight distribution hitch.

Good luck - I know it's a PITA to get the gremlins out.

[CaptnJohn]

My 2 cents ~~ LT tires for sure as I believe that will help. Personally, I'd sell the E2 and buy the Equalizer 4 point and go to 10,000/1,000. If that is out of the question, $40 for a friction sway bar and at your weight/length possibly 2 of them. You have a big sail for your TV and manufacturers rarely consider that (other than frontal) along with weight.

[johnw32]

After checking the info on the hitch and checking the purchase agreement I signed with my dealer, I was "sold" the E2 10k and they installed the 8k. Since they owe me what I originally agreed to, I hope they will apply a credit towards the purchase of the 4pt 10k. If not I will do what CaptnJohn stated and sell the new E2 10k and put it towards the 4pt from a different dealer/accessory supplier.

If after the new Hitch is installed I still feel the movement I currently have, I will try upgrading tires based on everyone's recommendation. Thanks for all of your help.

[paulbram]

If I were you I'd seriously consider the Blue Ox Sway Pro. I have a very similar trailer I pull with my 1/2 ton truck and it has been great for me.

[Restcure]

If you are interested in eliminating the possibility of sway rather than controlling it, the Hensley Arrow and ProPride 3P are worth looking at. Both are very pricey new, but used ones often come on the market.

Case in point: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-a-134466.html

[Martsing]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

My 2 cents ~~ LT tires for sure as I believe that will help. Personally, I'd sell the E2 and buy the Equalizer 4 point and go to 10,000/1,000. If that is out of the question, $40 for a friction sway bar and at your weight/length possibly 2 of them. You have a big sail for your TV and manufacturers rarely consider that (other than frontal) along with weight.

X2

Marty

[dmdomokos]

Originally Posted by johnw32

I have a 2015 Crew Cab 4x4 Chevy Silverado
7100 GVWR
Payload 1564
Tow capacity is 9,200

Purchased a Tracer 285 Air
Dry 5,998

Using an Equalizer E2 Hitch system
8,000lbs capacity
800 tongue weight

I've been to the scales multiple times to fine tune the hitch, here is what I have:

With distribution
Steer: 3460
Drive: 3260
Trailer: 5820

Front of truck returned back to stock height
Back is within 1-2"
Trailer is within 1/8" level front to back

Truck by itself
Steer: 3400
Drive: 2740

11.9% tongue weight
760lbs

Trailer loaded weights 6,400

With family loaded I still have 150~ lbs of payload and well within 70% of tow capacity.

I bought this trailer for this truck based on all of the threads on weight distribution I've read, keeping it inside all limits and keeping the trailer lightly loaded.

Tires are all at cold rating
Yes the truck has the stock P-rated tires (not opposed to upgrading, but need to be confident that will help before making the investment)

The ride is actually pretty good now that I have the hitch adjusted, dealer had left it in a terrible position) Problem is I still have SWAY at anything over 50/55mph. Trailer tires are rated at 65, my goal is to comfortably be able to drive at 60-62mph on flat interstates.

So to all of the equalizer advocates, What step should I take next? Surely this set-up is capable of making a safe ride.

Thanks for your input.

I tow with the E2, both with a Suburban and now with a 2500HD. I found that in both cases, my sway was related to tongue weight and attitude of my trailer. When I have my trailer about 1-2" lower in the front and carry some water, the E2 does better on sway and porpoising once everything else is set up correctly for weight distribution.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Many 1/2 ton trucks come with "P" tires as standard. Nowhere on my doorpost stickers (2) or in my manual says what other tires I can put on my truck. P265/70R17 is the only ones listed. On my 2 previous trucks, both Dodge Dakota, I had the option of "P" or "LT". And they weren't 1/2 ton trucks.

Yeah, LT tires aren't a 4x4 thing it is a truck-duty thing. I don't think I have ever seen a 1/2-ton come with LT tires.

Also, the yellow sticker doesn't list what you can put on your vehicle, it simply lists what came on it.

LT tires would be a significant improvement. Their stiffness eliminates the squishy side-to-side movement. They provide a lot more stability.

[johnw32]

Quick update:

My dealer installed the wrong hitch as caught here first, they installed 8k when the purchase agreement stated E2 10k. Since they were taking it back anyways, I asked if I could upgrade to the Equalizer with 4pt sway control and after some discussion my dealer agreed to swap it out at no cost. I'll let you all know how it goes. If this doesn't fix it 100% then I will make the tire change next on my list.

[J007]

Great to hear they swapped the E2 out for you for the Equalizer. I had an E2 on my Hybrid and when I ungraded this year, had the dealer through in a Blue Ox Sway Pro, because I knew the E2 wasn't going to do it for the 33 foot seal I was now towing with my 1/2 ton.

On a side note, I'm still trying to dial my 2016 F150 3.5 Eco, Max tow package in with my 2017 Flagstaff 27BHWS TT. We've been out three times now an every time things have been an experience. Two times it was very windy and couldn't go over 55 mph, without feeling save and the rest just had to take it easy and stay around 60. Inflating my tires to max cold PSI helped, but feel I will need to be changing out to LT tires next. Heading to CAT scale this weekend to find out my actual numbers and then will decide.

All though I don't have much experience with the Equalizer, I know a few people that really like theirs. This should help a lot.

Safe Travels.

[CaptnJohn]

Best thing that could happen. I like mine so much I kept it even though I have been pulling 5ers for a long time.

[Zak1]

Originally Posted by johnw32

I have a 2015 Crew Cab 4x4 Chevy Silverado
7100 GVWR
Payload 1564
Tow capacity is 9,200

Purchased a Tracer 285 Air
Dry 5,998

Using an Equalizer E2 Hitch system
8,000lbs capacity
800 tongue weight

I've been to the scales multiple times to fine tune the hitch, here is what I have:

With distribution
Steer: 3460
Drive: 3260
Trailer: 5820

Front of truck returned back to stock height
Back is within 1-2"
Trailer is within 1/8" level front to back

Truck by itself
Steer: 3400
Drive: 2740

11.9% tongue weight
760lbs

Trailer loaded weights 6,400

With family loaded I still have 150~ lbs of payload and well within 70% of tow capacity.

I bought this trailer for this truck based on all of the threads on weight distribution I've read, keeping it inside all limits and keeping the trailer lightly loaded.

Tires are all at cold rating
Yes the truck has the stock P-rated tires (not opposed to upgrading, but need to be confident that will help before making the investment)

The ride is actually pretty good now that I have the hitch adjusted, dealer had left it in a terrible position) Problem is I still have SWAY at anything over 50/55mph. Trailer tires are rated at 65, my goal is to comfortably be able to drive at 60-62mph on flat interstates.

So to all of the equalizer advocates, What step should I take next? Surely this set-up is capable of making a safe ride.

Thanks for your input.

Get a Propride 3P 1400, Problem solved for good. Read all you can on this (including my posts ) and you will find plenty of the the same issues primarily with 1/2 tons. Look at the reviews after switching to the Propride or Hensley type hitch. Pricey but trust me, worth every penny...

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by johnw32

Quick update:

My dealer installed the wrong hitch as caught here first, they installed 8k when the purchase agreement stated E2 10k. Since they were taking it back anyways, I asked if I could upgrade to the Equalizer with 4pt sway control and after some discussion my dealer agreed to swap it out at no cost. I'll let you all know how it goes. If this doesn't fix it 100% then I will make the tire change next on my list.

I'd also opt for the Timbren snubbers that are a direct replacement for the stock one. 10 min job and cost about $100 and works well. These are a little longer. When the tt is connected to truck the snubbers will now make contact with the with the rear axles making friction to reduce sway. Helped my 3/4 ton a lot. Later RJD