TT Towing Calculation Concern

[007matman]

Originally Posted by The Evil Twin

If you do that, wouldn't it reduce the weight transferred to the front axle? Just like raising the rear of the TV with the tongue jack unloads them to make hooking up easier.

It does. That's why I said they shouldn't be used. However, it appears the OP wants them for some reason.. maybe it's to level out the ride or because someone pulling a 5th wheel or Gooseneck told them that they should use them.

If the WD is configured correctly and the vehicle within it's tow limitations, the bags are not needed as the hitch should return the vehicle to an almost level state (the front and rear should settle about the same amount).

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[The Evil Twin]

Originally Posted by 007matman

It does. That's why I said they shouldn't be used. However, it appears the OP wants them for some reason.. maybe it's to level out the ride or because someone pulling a 5th wheel or Gooseneck told them that they should use them.

If the WD is configured correctly and the vehicle within it's tow limitations, the bags are not needed as the hitch should return the vehicle to an almost level state (the front and rear should settle about the same amount).

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

That's what I figured but Boomerweps said to inflate them after. IMO that is not good advice for the reason stated.
This is why I figured out what I want my bags inflated to and then set up the hitch. It keeps me off the bump stops and lowers my headlights as a courtesy to oncoming traffic.

[Dragonmaster]

Be careful listening to internet experts.

The in coil bags like airlift 1000’s, which are more likely on this type of vehicle, require you to air up first before loading. They rely on partially capturing the spring with outward pressure BEFORE the coils are loaded with towing/hauling weight. You risk blowing the bags if you try to inflate them after as they are lifting more than the rates weight.

Inflating after loading only applies to HD airbags that are independent of the springs or replace the springs.

[Jcape]

Originally Posted by Amartin453

So my wife and I decided to stop and weigh our TT and vehicle on a CAT scale for the first time to get some real numbers. See attached statistics/stickers.

The TT was fully loaded with one full propane tank. The payload was distributed evenly and I only had a quarter tank of gas. I know I should have filled up the tank but I didn’t. The fresh water tank was empty and we only had two vehicle passengers, we may have our two teenagers with us at some point if they ever want to come camping again, but doubtful.

Before I explain my concern this has been my experience pulling the TT (2021 Ibex 19 QBS) with our 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SL with Equalizer sway/distribution hitch, brake control and air bags (inflated to 25 lbs).

Vehicle pulls and stops with ease with little to no sway or chucking. We travel between 55 & 62 mph unless the wind gusts exceed 20 mph, then we slow down.

After weighing the vehicle and TT my steer axle weight was over by 219 lbs but the drive axle was under weight by 1065 lbs.

Any thoughts on a fix other than buying a new truck?

I will deflate the airbags next time to see if that helps.

Attachment 250514Attachment 250515

I don't know what weight distributing hitch you have, but you have lifted intirely to much wieght off the rear of the truck and distributed it to the steer axle of the truck and the axle of the trailer. If you were running level, you need to have the whole hitch readjusted including the ball height.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

And the scale operator didn't tell you that you were not on the scale correctly? …

In my experience CAT scale operators at major truck stops give no assistance to recreational vehicles. They cater to commercial trucks and would rather you weren't even there.

[hazmat456]

Originally Posted by The Evil Twin

If you do that, wouldn't it reduce the weight transferred to the front axle? Just like raising the rear of the TV with the tongue jack unloads them to make hooking up easier.

It most certainly does. that is why you should have them at inflated when you set up the hitch. Weight distribution hitches are not meant to level the vehicle, only to return weight to the front of the vehicle.
The scale, with bags at pressure is the best way to set up a hitch. Return front end weight to stock or as close to it without lifting the rear of the vehicle above its stock height.

[Bhrava]

Here is the proper way to determine the WDH setup. First, weigh the truck alone, with family and expected cargo and a full tank of gas. This gives you your available payload and front axle weight.

Next hookup and back on the scale, bars removed, then once more around with the bars attached.

Goal is to bring the front axle weight back to the unloaded weight or as close as possible, but not MORE.

Now you can see how much TW by subtracting the RAW without bars from the base RAW. And you can see how much was redistributed front and to the trailer.

When you have good numbers, then take a tape measure to the rear wheel well and add air to the bags until you see a slight rise. You should be good to go at that point. Don't air them up to lift the truck or you will completely mess up the WD. A slight rise, 1/16th" or less is all you need for the bags to provide stability.

[Julie dog]

Originally Posted by Amartin453

Here are the other stickers with the load information.


Attachment 250562

Why do they install the weight stickers on the outside where the sun , washing etc. They get faded and can't read them any more. .. Should be install some where in side out of the elements ..

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Julie dog

Why do they install the weight stickers on the outside where the sun , washing etc. They get faded and can't read them any more. .. Should be install some where in side out of the elements ..

X2

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Julie dog

Why do they install the weight stickers on the outside where the sun , washing etc. They get faded and can't read them any more. .. Should be install some where in side out of the elements ..

They used to install the weight sticker inside, not that long ago. It was a white sticker and usually on the inside of a cabinet door.

[hazmat456]

Originally Posted by bikendan

They used to install the weight sticker inside, not that long ago. It was a white sticker and usually on the inside of a cabinet door.

The sticker containing the VIN and GVWR has always been on the front left corner. I think there is a law pertaining to that.
Available cargo capacity was traditionals on the inside of a cabinet, it is now a yellow sticker on or near the main entrance door.
The tire inflation and capacity sticker is fairly recent and is also mandatory on all vehicles. I think that is a result of the Ford/Firestone debacle.

[Amartin453]

Originally Posted by Julie dog

Why do they install the weight stickers on the outside where the sun , washing etc. They get faded and can't read them any more. .. Should be install some where in side out of the elements ..

That makes too much sense🤣

[Amartin453]

Originally Posted by Amartin453

So my wife and I decided to stop and weigh our TT and vehicle on a CAT scale for the first time to get some real numbers. See attached statistics/stickers.

The TT was fully loaded with one full propane tank. The payload was distributed evenly and I only had a quarter tank of gas. I know I should have filled up the tank but I didn’t. The fresh water tank was empty and we only had two vehicle passengers, we may have our two teenagers with us at some point if they ever want to come camping again, but doubtful.

Before I explain my concern this has been my experience pulling the TT (2021 Ibex 19 QBS) with our 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SL with Equalizer sway/distribution hitch, brake control and air bags (inflated to 25 lbs).

Vehicle pulls and stops with ease with little to no sway or chucking. We travel between 55 & 62 mph unless the wind gusts exceed 20 mph, then we slow down.

After weighing the vehicle and TT my steer axle weight was over by 219 lbs but the drive axle was under weight by 1065 lbs.

Any thoughts on a fix other than buying a new truck?

I will deflate the airbags next time to see if that helps.

Attachment 250514Attachment 250515

CAT SCALE WEIGH IN UPDATE:
The latest scale weigh has the vehicle under the max limit by 620 pounds. I believe the discrepancy between the two readouts was due to incorrectly lining the rear wheels of the vehicle on the front and middle scale pads.
[ATTACH]253415[

[moose074]

You said it stopped and drove great, and I agree this ticket shows you didn’t line weigh properly so you still might have an overweight front axle

[Amartin453]

Originally Posted by moose074

You said it stopped and drove great, and I agree this ticket shows you didn’t line weigh properly so you still might have an overweight front axle

The first ticket I was able to discern that I split the weight not lining up vehicle wheels correctly on the scales.

Below is how I weighed in a few days ago, am I still weighing the vehicle and trailer incorrectly?

This CAT scale has three pads/scales. The first weigh in:

Vehicle on scale 1 (Steer Axle) 5380lbs and trailer on scale 2 (Drive Axle) 4040lbs

Then I reweighed the vehicle and trailer on the scales a second time and had the following number which I updated the post with

Vehicle on scale 2 (Drive Axle) 5380lbs and trailer on scale 3 (Trailer Axle) 4060.

I re-weighed on scale 2&3 based on a suggestion from the nice lady at the scale site.

Thanks for all the new and past comment!

[hazmat456]

Each axle should be on its own pad. On your weight ticket the whole truck is on the second pad and Trailer axle is on the third.
To get any real information you need three weights.
1. With the truck alone, one axle per pad.
2. With the truck and camper again one axle per pan and the weight distribution bars disconnected or loose.
3. The same as 2 but with the weights distribution system engaged as you would normally operate it going down the road.

[Bhrava]

Steer axle on pad one, drive axle pad two, trailer pad 3. Or just wait and watch a truck scale and do what they do.

[Mike134]

Fortunately you don't need a new truck just need to adjust the hitch as others have said and get your wheels on the right weight pads. Your truck has a 5986 GVWR just stay under that and your good.

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by Dragonmaster

Be careful listening to internet experts.

I could not agree more. Think of them as guys sitting at your local saloon offering their 2 cents, some will have good suggestions others not so much. Always verify from multiple sources.

Safe travels.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by hazmat456

The sticker containing the VIN and GVWR has always been on the front left corner. I think there is a law pertaining to that.
Available cargo capacity was traditionals on the inside of a cabinet, it is now a yellow sticker on or near the main entrance door.
The tire inflation and capacity sticker is fairly recent and is also mandatory on all vehicles. I think that is a result of the Ford/Firestone debacle.

Not so fast.

The 1989 32' Wilderness and the 2005 27' Timberlodge tt's we had never had the stickers on the outside. On the Wilderness there wasn't any VIN, GWR, CCC or tire loading sticker anywhere but the VIN was welded into the hitch a-frame. The Timberlodge had a plain white VIN, GWR, CCC and tire loading sticker in a kitchen cabinet door and the VIN was stamped into the hitch a-frame.