What did you do to your camper today?

[Iwannacamp]

Did? Not yet..got in my whole house(TT) water filter. I will mount it under...waiting on my under sink filter for drinking water faucet to install.

Heck. I guess it will almost be "sterile" water. Lol

Ohh. I got in a couple of new chairs from WM.com. Reg$50 got for $20 no freight. They are comfortable, but lean back further than I like.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[mud yapster]

Installed my Butch's 5th wheel safety latch last night

[wicked1]

Anyone have a breakaway that they are installing these Butch Latches? Just wondering if you really need one?


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by wicked1

Anyone have a breakaway that they are installing these Butch Latches? Just wondering if you really need one?


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

That's a good question. I guess it is like anything else just an extra layer of protection. Even through it was designed for hooking up only, but if it broke loose in travel, I don't think you would have to much control of the trailer, but it wouldn't just drop off and ruin your gate and rails of the truck. I know I high hitched before I learned and dropped a jayco. After that I painted my bar bright yellow now I can see if it is closed and holding correctly. Just a learning cure..... Now I also added tug pull to my hitching procedure.

[wicked1]

Yeah before I bought my TT I trailered boats tug pull save LS a lot of unknowns and I pin my tongue latch always with a clip kind not a plain bar


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Timex]

Originally Posted by wicked1

Yeah before I bought my TT I trailered boats tug pull save LS a lot of unknowns and I pin my tongue latch always with a clip kind not a plain bar


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Mrs Evans]

Installed 'Quickie Flush' on our black water tank and our sensors are back to reading 'E' again, yay!

We're still going to install the Horbst sensors, but that will happen with our next trip.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Mrs Evans

Installed 'Quickie Flush' on our black water tank and our sensors are back to reading 'E' again, yay!

We're still going to install the Horbst sensors, but that will happen with our next trip.

Can I ask what is "Quickie Flush" and what will it do? Never heard of it before.....Thanks

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

I did nothing TO my trailer today... I did something FOR it. Remember that old movie wherein the flesh-eating plant was always saying "Feed Me!!"? I heard my trailer say that so I removed the 30 amp breaker and plug and installed a 50 amp breaker and plug. Now the Wildcat gets all the juice it needs.

Only bad link is your wire size from 30 amp to 50 amp. Did you change the wire inside from the plug to the panel? A 30 amp cord and interior 30 amp wire to the panel will heat up using it for 50 amps instead of 30 amps. That's why they put a 30 amp breaker in your panel. I assume you checked the gauge to handle 50 amp compared to 30 amp?

[jwedell]

1 - Hope you changed the wire size to #6/2 with ground.
2 - 50 amp service is 230 volts, hope you're only using the ground, neutral and 1 hot leg.
3 - Make sure the panel is rated for the higher amperage.

[Mrs Evans]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Can I ask what is "Quickie Flush" and what will it do? Never heard of it before.....Thanks

It's a device that is installed to your holding tank that thoroughly flushes the tank. Another version of it is named 'Turboflush'.

We bought both versions just to see the difference - we found that the Quickie flush used a little more force and would fill up the tank faster than the Turboflush so that's why we went with the Quickie Flush. It took all of 15/20 minutes to install - easy peasy. Our dealer wanted to charge us $300 for the job

I have to say that after we installed it and flushed out our otherwise thought be clean tank, more stuff definitely came out. Also, for the first time since we bought the trailer, the tank is back to showing as 'Empty' instead of 1/3 full.

Here's a link for the product:
Amazon.com: Camco 40123 Quickie Flush with Back Flow Preventer: Automotive

We also are using the GeoMethod and will periodically use 'Digest-it' to ensure we have our tanks as clean as possible

[mud yapster]

Thanks for the Quickie flush info. I'm sanitizing ours with bleech as I type this

[Mrs Evans]

Originally Posted by mud yapster

Thanks for the Quickie flush info. I'm sanitizing ours with bleech as I type this

You're welcome! This forum is great! It's where I found out about this option and so much other helpful information

We also learned what was causing the funky smell in our trailer - not the black tank, it is the hot water heater! So now we know what to do about it "Keeping calm and camping on"

[mud yapster]

Yep I keep my hot water tank flushed out I learned that from my previous TT over the last 15 yrs. The water in it can go south on you fairly quick if not used often in my hot climate. Thanks again and its a great forum also.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Only bad link is your wire size from 30 amp to 50 amp. Did you change the wire inside from the plug to the panel? A 30 amp cord and interior 30 amp wire to the panel will heat up using it for 50 amps instead of 30 amps. That's why they put a 30 amp breaker in your panel. I assume you checked the gauge to handle 50 amp compared to 30 amp?

Originally Posted by jwedell

1 - Hope you changed the wire size to #6/2 with ground.
2 - 50 amp service is 230 volts, hope you're only using the ground, neutral and 1 hot leg.
3 - Make sure the panel is rated for the higher amperage.

Thank you both for your concern. I will attempt to answer your questions.
No, I did not change any of my wiring. When I did this wiring project 4 years ago, I anticipated the eventual change from my 30 amp trailer to my current 50 amp trailer so I used 4awg wire underground from my house panel to the 100 amp panel in my shed. I used 6/3+ground from my 100 amp shed panel in a 20' run to a 30 amp RV plug box (yes, for that configuration, I only used one hot leg and capped off L2). To make the subject conversion, I removed the 30 amp single pole breaker that I myself installed 4 years ago. [Thus, the statement "That's why they put a 30 amp breaker in your panel" is not technically correct.] I replaced the 30 amp breaker with a 50 amp double pole breaker and connected both hot legs of the 6/3 existing wire to it. On the other end, I removed the old 30 amp RV plug box and installed a new 50 amp RV plug box straight from Home Depot. And, yes, I used BOTH hot legs since the 50 amp trailer with its 4 prong plug likes both hot legs. My Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C unit (which I installed myself) shows correct voltage and amperage usage on both L1 and L2. I turned on both A/C units, the electric water heater element and the microwave and the rig passed all tests. I say I'm good to go.

[mud yapster]

Sounds good to me Dan I did the same except it was 9 yrs. ago when I put in my 30 amp RV hook up in and anticipated one day of having to upgrade my hook up to a 50 amp hook up. This Aug. Our new 5er needed just that, a 50 amp hook up but only took a few minutes to upgrade it being I already had my wires sized properly. Like you said swamped breakers and installed the 50 amp plug. Yes did all my self along time ago. I also put a 50amp hard wire Progressive Surge protector on our rig.

[wicked1]

Originally Posted by mud yapster

Sounds good to me Dan I did the same except it was 9 yrs. ago when I put in my 30 amp RV hook up in and anticipated one day of having to upgrade my hook up to a 50 amp hook up. This Aug. Our new 5er needed just that, a 50 amp hook up but only took a few minutes to upgrade it being I already had my wires sized properly. Like you said swamped breakers and installed the 50 amp plug. Yes did all my self along time ago. I also put a 50amp hard wire Progressive Surge protector on our rig.

How hard are the Progressive Surge Protectors to install, I am in IT and familiar with wiring and electronics but consider the Progressive over any portable one you buy at CW because I heard they get stolen sometimes and prefer to have something built right into the RV and not carry anymore stuff around with me.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[jwedell]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

Thank you both for your concern. I will attempt to answer your questions.
No, I did not change any of my wiring. When I did this wiring project 4 years ago, I anticipated the eventual change from my 30 amp trailer to my current 50 amp trailer so I used 4awg wire underground from my house panel to the 100 amp panel in my shed. I used 6/3+ground from my 100 amp shed panel in a 20' run to a 30 amp RV plug box (yes, for that configuration, I only used one hot leg and capped off L2). To make the subject conversion, I removed the 30 amp single pole breaker that I myself installed 4 years ago. [Thus, the statement "That's why they put a 30 amp breaker in your panel" is not technically correct.] I replaced the 30 amp breaker with a 50 amp double pole breaker and connected both hot legs of the 6/3 existing wire to it. On the other end, I removed the old 30 amp RV plug box and installed a new 50 amp RV plug box straight from Home Depot. And, yes, I used BOTH hot legs since the 50 amp trailer with its 4 prong plug likes both hot legs. My Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C unit (which I installed myself) shows correct voltage and amperage usage on both L1 and L2. I turned on both A/C units, the electric water heater element and the microwave and the rig passed all tests. I say I'm good to go.

My mistake, I thought the upgrade was inside the trailer. My apologies.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by jwedell

My mistake, I thought the upgrade was inside the trailer. My apologies.

No harm ===> No foul!

[Hutch333id]

Originally Posted by wicked1

How hard are the Progressive Surge Protectors to install, I am in IT and familiar with wiring and electronics but consider the Progressive over any portable one you buy at CW because I heard they get stolen sometimes and prefer to have something built right into the RV and not carry anymore stuff around with me.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Super easy to install and I'm not a DIY genius by any stretch of the imagination. I bought a 3' length of #6 cable which I attached to the output side of the PI 50amp hardwired unit. Then disconnected the original cable from the distribution panel and connected that to the input side of the PI unit. The hardest part is manipulating to wires in the cable to get it to attach inside the PI unit. #6 cable isn't the most pliable of wire to work with in a confined area.

There are lots of threads with precise details - dependent upon your actual rv.

BTW....I bought mine from MakariosRV for less than $300 and free shipping within the US


Richard & Diane
2014 Cedar Creek 38FL
With a F350 dually
2014 41 nights and 4620km.......and we're done