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Old 08-27-2015, 02:37 PM   #4761
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My v lite had limited room to accommodate 2 batteries. Made the battery deck wider but still narrow enough that it wouldn't interfere with tight turns. Added a battery selector / on/ off also. Now all I have to do is get another battery box and battery.
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Old 08-27-2015, 03:26 PM   #4762
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My v lite had limited room to accommodate 2 batteries. Made the battery deck wider but still narrow enough that it wouldn't interfere with tight turns. Added a battery selector / on/ off also. Now all I have to do is get another battery box and battery.
I'm just curious because what you did seems fine to me and I've never seen it done but couldn't you go up with the second battery by making some kind of stand to mount it over top the original battery?

Maybe that would make it inconvenient for R&R of the bottom battery but how often does R&R of a battery need to be done? I guess ideal would be a bracket that would mount the second battery above the first on a pedestal kind of deal that would swing out of the way when you needed to work on the bottom battery.

Maybe I'm over thinking this
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:12 PM   #4763
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I'm just curious because what you did seems fine to me and I've never seen it done but couldn't you go up with the second battery by making some kind of stand to mount it over top the original battery?

Maybe that would make it inconvenient for R&R of the bottom battery but how often does R&R of a battery need to be done? I guess ideal would be a bracket that would mount the second battery above the first on a pedestal kind of deal that would swing out of the way when you needed to work on the bottom battery.

Maybe I'm over thinking this
Thought about going up but was a lot more work and I had these aluminum plates laying around so I used them for this. Also as you have stated access to the lower battery would be a pain trying to come up with a way to make it slide out tray for the lower one.
For right now this will work until I can come up with a better way to do it.
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:18 PM   #4764
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Got back from the Millsburg Flagstaff factory at midnight last night (11 hours each way).

I picked up two of the the last two 4,000 pound Al-Ko axles they had.

Seems Al-Ko is out of the axle business and if I needed them after these were gone I would have needed to replace the axle mounts as well as the axles.

Flagstaff is using Dexter torsion axles now and the mounts are different.
These will allow me to remove 4 bolts and hook up the brake wires.

Much thanks to Leo, Gregg at Flagstaff, Flloyd, and the two guys that helped me load the truck to make this happen.

Amazing how much damage a pothole hit "at speed" can do. Worse yet, I had no indication I was running on only one axle until IT quit.
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:19 PM   #4765
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Now who's gunna help "unload"?
Great you found Axles!

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Old 08-27-2015, 04:23 PM   #4766
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Gb/gvr
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:41 PM   #4767
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Gb/gvr
Whatever that means.
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Old 08-27-2015, 04:45 PM   #4768
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Whatever that means.
Don't know myself. Never posted it.

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Old 08-27-2015, 04:57 PM   #4769
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Now who's gunna help "unload"?
Great you found Axles!

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Gb/gvr
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBS View Post
Don't know myself. Never posted it.

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Duh, it has your handle on it.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:01 PM   #4770
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Gremlins

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Old 08-27-2015, 05:12 PM   #4771
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Now who's gunna help "unload"?
Great you found Axles!

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"
My neighbor has 4 20 ton bottle jacks and two HD floor jacks.
Now I just need to find OC's post about how to pin the axle flanges to the box frame.

OC, did you use self tapping bolts? What kind?
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:36 PM   #4772
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My neighbor has 4 20 ton bottle jacks and two HD floor jacks.
Now I just need to find OC's post about how to pin the axle flanges to the box frame.

OC, did you use self tapping bolts? What kind?
No, used 1/2" x 1-1/4 gr 8 bolts and nyloc nuts. If you don't have the old axles out, get a 1/2" centering punch and mark the 2 holes for ea. axle on both sides and when you get the axles out, drill the holes and drop the bolts in. The bolts down in the tube are easier to install if you thread a wire thru the hole and pull them into the holes. Once you get the bolts in the tubing, it helps if you cut a 1x the width from the top of the inside of the tube to the top of the bolt heads to hold them while installing the axles.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:37 PM   #4773
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No, used 1/2" x 1-1/4 gr 8 bolts and nyloc nuts. If you don't have the old axles out, get a 1/2" centering punch and mark the 2 holes for ea. axle on both sides and when you get the axles out, drill the holes and drop the bolts in. The bolts down in the tube are easier to install if you thread a wire thru the hole and pull them into the holes.
That sounds too easy for it to be that easy.

Will do it once the camper is in the air.
Will pick up the bolts tomorrow.
Did you use washers under the nuts?
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:43 PM   #4774
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That sounds too easy for it to be that easy.

Will do it once the camper is in the air.
Will pick up the bolts tomorrow.
Did you use washers under the nuts?
No washers, the bolt and nut is over a hole. It is not too easy, needless to say, suggest drilling 3/16" pilot holes and stepping up to the 1/2" bit. SHARP BITS too!. Tip: Paper cup on the drill bits keep the shavings off of your arms and face.
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:45 PM   #4775
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No washers, the bolt and nut is over a hole. It is not too easy, needless to say, suggest drilling 3/16" pilot holes and stepping up to the 1/2" bit. SHARP BITS too!. Tip: Paper cup on the drill bits keep the shavings off of your arms and face.
OC, you never cease to amaze me.
Another great tip.

What torque did you use on the main axle bolts?
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:54 PM   #4776
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OC, you never cease to amaze me.
Another great tip.

What torque did you use on the main axle bolts?
Drilled a couple of holes overhead before and had a pretty sharp grandpappy.

90 lb/ft is about mid range on torque chart for 75% proof load. (80lb/ft -106lb/ft)
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Old 08-27-2015, 05:58 PM   #4777
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I backed my brand new Windjammer 3029W into a tree and crushed the rear bumper right at the end. I have a hydraulic spreader on the way so I can try to force it back into shape.

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Old 08-27-2015, 11:45 PM   #4778
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Since I rebuilt my Trailair Equalizers I figured I'd check alignment. Rear axle right side tire showed outside wear and was towed in over 1/4" overall. So today I realigned it back to spec. Should track nicely.
Some chain, 20ton bottle jack, and cribbing is all it takes to tweak the axle tube. Checking the alignment tools include plumb bob, string, 4' level, slide gauge, tape measure and a protractor level.
It's a task not for the weak.
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Old 08-28-2015, 01:43 AM   #4779
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That kinda looks scary...
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:35 AM   #4780
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That kinda looks scary...
That's why I closed with it's a task not for the weak. It's tough to see but I use angle iron to capture the head of the jack and use chain so if it does slip it just falls to the ground.
The last 5er I did was a big Everest and those axles were all out of wack on all 4 corners camber and toe. Running the easy coast roads kills these things. Climbing curbs also bends them. Especially since in most cases the axles are under rated and loaded up. All the shops around here want to sell you new axles so I stay busy with alignments. It's just time consuming doing a little at a time and constantly rechecking.
Here's a little video from youtube on how it's done.
https://youtu.be/pRyTeqYuGBk
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