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Old 10-16-2016, 09:47 AM   #8981
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Just ordered the blue tooth scanner, I need to keep an eye on my cooling temp, plus my transmission Temps. The most important thing for my 6.0, thanks for the links. Did not get the on off cable.
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Old 10-16-2016, 05:43 PM   #8982
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Just ordered the blue tooth scanner, I need to keep an eye on my cooling temp, plus my transmission Temps. The most important thing for my 6.0, thanks for the links. Did not get the on off cable.
The temp differential between EOT and ECT are extremely crucial.

BTW: The scanner hangs down quite a bit almost in the path of your right foot. You might want to unscrew and turn your connector towards the firewall as I did.
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Old 10-16-2016, 05:50 PM   #8983
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I'm an idiot, what do you mean eot and ect? I'm not a wrench Turner at all, but 05dully mention the temp difference to me. Had two 6.0 never a problem yet and don't want one, no chips and factory maintenance.
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Old 10-16-2016, 05:52 PM   #8984
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What do you suggest that is critical if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 10-16-2016, 07:58 PM   #8985
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What do you suggest that is critical if you don't mind me asking?
If the temp differential between the 2 while driving on flat land for 15 minutes while maintaining 60mph ever hits 15f or more, it's time for a new oil cooler. Especially if you're seeing Temps spread of 20-30 or more.
Running with a clogged oil cooler increases the risk of superheating the EGR cooler which can cause it to crack internally. When this occurs it allows coolant to leak into the intake manifold. The coolant is then burned causing extreme pressures in the combustion chamber resulting in stretched headbolts and then blown head gasket(s).

Main objective when towing (stock), keep oil temp below 230f. If you observe the oil temp climb high and doesn't recover quickly after pulling grade have it checked out for a clogged oil cooler.

Side note: the "clogging" of the oil cooler I speak of is on the coolant side NOT oil side of the cooler. A clogged oil cooler replacement will also require a coolant drain/flush and new coolant.

And that's a 6.0 in a nutshell.



And for me we continued to load up for our trip next month. Alright, gotta come clean, my DW packed. I would probably do it wrong. I'm fine with that.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:06 PM   #8986
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.........
And for me we continued to load up for our trip next month. Alright, gotta come clean, my DW packed. I would probably do it wrong. I'm fine with that.
I know THAT feeling!

Let's see... what did I do to the camper today... Hmmm... moved it 3 feet forward so I could get the Ready Brake and Blue Ox Alpha tow bar off of it. Getting ready to go to storage Nov 12.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:12 PM   #8987
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I'm an idiot, what do you mean eot and ect? I'm not a wrench Turner at all, but 05dully mention the temp difference to me. Had two 6.0 never a problem yet and don't want one, no chips and factory maintenance.
In a nutshell, when they designed the 6.0 to replace the 7.3 because it couldn't meet EPA (ugh) regulations they installed an EGR valve with and EGR cooler and an oil cooler that were reliant on each other.

If you use your 6.0 doing heavy work all the time and religiously maintain it you may never have a problem but if you drive it as a daily road vehicle it may build up soot in the EGR cooler thereby causing the coolant to boil off releasing the additives within it that clog the oil cooler. When the oil cooler clogs the engine temp will rise causing excessive engine heat which leads to several part failures up to blown head gaskets and it can become very expensive.

Many 6.0 owners do one of two things, EGR delete or bulletproofing. the first removes the emission parts and solves the immediate problem but may be illegal and your state may not allow it to be registered or sold to another party. The second is replacing the problem parts with improved ones that hopefully prevent the failures. Of course "chipping" the system for performance negates the preventative work because the engine wasn't designed to handle the overload.

The importance of EOT (engine oil temp) and ECT (engine coolant temp) is when you're traveling at average highway speeds you want those temps to be as close together as possible showing the EGR, EGR cooler and oil cooler are working correctly. If they are consistently 15 degrees apart or more, it is an indication that your oil cooler is clogged, (as well as the other components) therefore not working correctly and you may shortly suffer a catastrophic "expensive" failure.

Most 6.0 owners after having the corrections or improvements made should have a 500,000 mile vehicle and would not trade their vehicle in for any other but they usually stay diligent in monitoring it.

I hope this has enlightened you?

EDIT: I see 05CrewDually has posted while I was typing. I'll leave mine up as well.
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Old 10-16-2016, 08:17 PM   #8988
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Main objective when towing (stock), keep oil temp below 230f. If you observe the oil temp climb high and doesn't recover quickly after pulling grade have it checked out for a clogged oil cooler..
At what temp do you start to worry about your transmission?
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:04 PM   #8989
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Aeblank, at the very end of my end caps the cover can be carefully pried off. Then remove the rubber plug and there will be a grease fitting. After making sure that the fitting is tight grease can carefully be added. Don't force it or you will blow out the rear seal. As far as the axle, look under tour camper. There are only horizontal bolts going through slots holding the axle to the frame. Some have slipped. I am going to drill vertical bolt holes through the frame using the per drilled hole in the axle as a guide. FR does not recommend this but many here have done it. Jay
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:12 AM   #8990
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At what temp do you start to worry about your transmission?
Transmission is never a concern. For the 6.0 Ford gave the Trans a huge cooler and lines that flow ATF just fine to keep cool. Driving empty it may stay around 160. Towing 12k and with my truck being 9.5k, on flat land, it will run around 176 towing with spikes slightly higher pulling long grade.
I'd have no concern unless I saw Temps 220+.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:00 PM   #8991
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I'd have no concern unless I saw Temps 220+.
Yeah, my top temp so far has been 179.
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Old 10-17-2016, 03:08 PM   #8992
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:29 PM   #8993
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Started the clean out process for winterizing. Taking to the dealer in two weeks for repairs under warranty. No telling when I will get it back.
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:21 PM   #8994
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Replaced the bunkhouse door with a folding door so the kids can sleep in there without putting the slide out if necessary
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Old 10-17-2016, 06:49 PM   #8995
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I decided I WAS NOT going to empty out the basement and crawl on my hands/ knees around the various stacks and wireing six feet to throw the valves on the water heater.Instead I viciously attacked the wall in the companion way with a saw and made a hole for a door.I have a baggage door to put in the hole and will use the wood (maybe its wood but I really think its cardboard) cutout to put in the door frame.Paint the frame semi black,screw it in and call it good.As ugly as the hole is,its still the best one in the unit(fr did all the others).I'll make up the door and frame this winter,but for now at least I can reach the water heater. I can also store at least 2 cases of beer in there and wont have to go outside to get it! Looking around,I can see two more places in this thing where this idea would work well.
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Old 10-17-2016, 07:46 PM   #8996
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Gray Wolf Toy Hauler 19RR shocks.

After consulting with the mfg Lippert on how the instructions for the shock do not work on I beam frames or under slung springs I almost gave up. They said the kit was not meant for my trailer.

I figured it out. Modified the beam plate by cutting off one corner and used spacers to offset the plate from the web of the beam to clear the bottom beam flange.

Used 3/8-16 Gr 8 x 2" bolts and nuts. The 5 Washers for 1/2" shims are mild steel. Drilled 13 /32 holes for bolts. T

The height adjustment procedure from standard instructions were used. Remember the weight of the trailer needs to be on the springs before the mid stroke shock mount location can be located on the frame. Jack stands worked great for this. Could have used 1 1/2" bolts. I measured the body to ground clearance front and back to be sure it was parallel to ground and not level so the shocks would be neutral .

Have 1" clearance to the tire and 1/4" to the frame.

The top outside bolts on the top plate do not carry all the load so the one I cut off will not make the unit fail. Amazing how much a frame can rust in 4 years.


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Old 10-17-2016, 08:05 PM   #8997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
If the temp differential between the 2 while driving on flat land for 15 minutes while maintaining 60mph ever hits 15f or more, it's time for a new oil cooler. Especially if you're seeing Temps spread of 20-30 or more.
Running with a clogged oil cooler increases the risk of superheating the EGR cooler which can cause it to crack internally. When this occurs it allows coolant to leak into the intake manifold. The coolant is then burned causing extreme pressures in the combustion chamber resulting in stretched headbolts and then blown head gasket(s).

Main objective when towing (stock), keep oil temp below 230f. If you observe the oil temp climb high and doesn't recover quickly after pulling grade have it checked out for a clogged oil cooler.

Side note: the "clogging" of the oil cooler I speak of is on the coolant side NOT oil side of the cooler. A clogged oil cooler replacement will also require a coolant drain/flush and new coolant.

And that's a 6.0 in a nutshell.



And for me we continued to load up for our trip next month. Alright, gotta come clean, my DW packed. I would probably do it wrong. I'm fine with that.
Take care of a 6.0 and it will take care of you.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:22 AM   #8998
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I decided I WAS NOT going to empty out the basement and crawl on my hands/ knees around the various stacks and wireing six feet to throw the valves on the water heater.Instead I viciously attacked the wall in the companion way with a saw and made a hole for a door.I have a baggage door to put in the hole and will use the wood (maybe its wood but I really think its cardboard) cutout to put in the door frame.Paint the frame semi black,screw it in and call it good.As ugly as the hole is,its still the best one in the unit(fr did all the others).I'll make up the door and frame this winter,but for now at least I can reach the water heater. I can also store at least 2 cases of beer in there and wont have to go outside to get it! Looking around,I can see two more places in this thing where this idea would work well.
I think I would have done the same, like the idea of 2 cases of beer storage. Maybe you should cut holes for FR, any hole they cut it looks like they use a chainsaw and a hammer.....
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:17 AM   #8999
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................
............ Maybe you should cut holes for FR, any hole they cut it looks like they use a chainsaw and a hammer.....
Glad I didn't have a mouth full of coffee reading that. Now that is funny.... and true in my experiences.
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Old 10-18-2016, 09:18 AM   #9000
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