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Old 09-25-2017, 04:07 PM   #11641
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Originally Posted by Cowracer View Post
I installed my RVLock keyless entry. Bought it open but uninstalled for $50 from someone who found out it wont work with their camper.

Installation was "throw it at the wall" easy, except for one small item. The indoor latch handle was a bit bigger (wider) than the OEM one. When trying to close the door, the latch lever would impact the screen door frame and would not let the door close.

I tried to cobble the old handle onto the new lock, but it was just different enough not to work. Looking at the lever from the inside, there was extra material to the outside (door frame side) of the handle that the OEM one didn't have. As it was not 'structural' in any way I wound up taking the handle off and using the bench grinder, knocking off about 1/4" of the extra width of the lever, so that the dimension from the pivot pin to the frame side was about the same as the OEM one. A quick spot of black paint, and you would never know it was altered. It's not exactly perfect, but it works.

I mounted the keypad to the side of the door, that way the action of closing the door won't beat it up, and I put it low enough that my wife can reach it from the ground.

It's going to be nice. there has been many times I've been in the driveway and I wanted to pop into the camper to get something or put something in it, and I'd have to go into the house, get the keys and then make sure I didn't lose them or forget them outside when I was done (I have done that more than a few times).

So far, it works as advertised.

Tim
This looks really handy!

Is the keypad wireless? Or did you have to run wires?
Where does the keypad get powered from?
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:13 PM   #11642
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I bought one a few years ago. The keypad is wireless and uses its own battery for power. It worked for about a year and a half and then would kill a battery after a night. Contacted Lipert (maker of the lock) and they told me to pound sand... It was handy until it was not! LOL
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:40 PM   #11643
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Finally got it registered with NYS DMV. Needless to say I got shafted. The plates from my old trailer were registered incorrectly so we could not simply transfer them to the new trailer. Had to surrender them and get new plates. The issue is that NYS does not give registration refunds on trailers and they do not prorate registrations. So I lost the registration that was still good through 12/31/17 and the new registration is only good through 12/31/17 but I had to pay for a whole year.
I don't know why they charged you for a full year. I'm also in NY State and every December they mail me a registration renewal, but I never go online to DMV to pay until just before our first trip the end of April. When I do it that way the renewal is always less than the full year price printed on the form from the previous December. I get charged for April through December. Maybe it's something new this year?

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Old 09-25-2017, 06:04 PM   #11644
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I don't know why they charged you for a full year. I'm also in NY State and every December they mail me a registration renewal, but I never go online to DMV to pay until just before our first trip the end of April. When I do it that way the renewal is always less than the full year price printed on the form from the previous December. I get charged for April through December. Maybe it's something new this year?

Ray

X2

And.....did the old plates say "TRAILER" on them? If so, in NYS a trailer plate is a trailer plate! They just should have adjusted the fee to reflect the higher (or lower) weight of the new trailer! Then you would have been mailed a new renewal in December for 2018 for the new trailer.

When I lived in NY, I did the same as above on my race trailers. I would only go to DMV in April just before racing started and renew the registration. It was always prorated too.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:20 PM   #11645
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MOVE!
The day I retire I am out of here. If it were not for my career I would have been gone long ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandK-M View Post
I don't know why they charged you for a full year. I'm also in NY State and every December they mail me a registration renewal, but I never go online to DMV to pay until just before our first trip the end of April. When I do it that way the renewal is always less than the full year price printed on the form from the previous December. I get charged for April through December. Maybe it's something new this year?

Ray
I always have to pay the annual renewal in Jan when they mail the notice. I have delayed it before but I still had to pay the full price.
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X2

And.....did the old plates say "TRAILER" on them? If so, in NYS a trailer plate is a trailer plate! They just should have adjusted the fee to reflect the higher (or lower) weight of the new trailer! Then you would have been mailed a new renewal in December for 2018 for the new trailer.

When I lived in NY, I did the same as above on my race trailers. I would only go to DMV in April just before racing started and renew the registration. It was always prorated too.
A trailer is not a trailer in NY. There are different registration classes for trailers. The Jayco was registered as TRL. The Wildwood was in the system as HOU. Those are 2 different registration classes of trailers. That is why they could not transfer the plates. The system would not allow then to change the class. They tried. I hate this place and can not wait to leave. 95% TN is where I will wind up. Already selling my place upstate.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:58 PM   #11646
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That works too. I need a 12ga cord, but the one I'm using is 14. Ok for all but ac. Good enough.
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:03 PM   #11647
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apparently I have to repair the roof on a 3 month old trailer which is pulling out of the side track and repair the cabinet which has pulled off the cabinet today.


dealership local is backed up by 2 months and won't get me in.
trailer will be in storage by then for the winter.
I wonder why so much flex on that cabinet to pull those staples like that?
Is that a symptom of a larger issue?

Let us know what you find.
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:21 PM   #11648
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If they were build like my cherokee they used staples only, no glue and the panels began to pop after a few months on the road.
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:36 PM   #11649
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Yesterday installed new volt meter/usb port above the original equip 12v/usb ports.

Brandi
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:20 AM   #11650
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As I mentioned I put my proper trailer tire on and took off the spare. That steel wheel is bloody heavy. I might have to spring for an aluminum wheel or something lighter.

Other than that- when I last wired up the batteries, I had to use a 2awg negative cable because the 2/0awg cable I bought was too short. I got the proper length and replaced that tonight.

I then put the 2awg back into place for the inverter as I originally intended. Wired in a ground for the inverter and I was off to the races!

I still need to mount my battery monitor display and the remote switch for the inverter, but both of those require some diving into the basement and into some dead space under the hallway/bathroom to fish a wire into the backside of a cabinet. (Read: I’m avoiding hard work.) And then I have to do some tidying and securing of cables for the whole project. I don’t really need the battery monitor display or switch as I can access the battery info from my phone and the inverter is pretty accessible.

BUT- I’m good enough to start our boondocking experiment for the Balloon Fest in ABQ.

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Old 09-26-2017, 05:28 AM   #11651
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Eppy,have you considered a "Fire Suppression System" for your Battery Mod area? You have a Lot more "Fire Power" than Most 12V Battery applications! PS,at the Balloon Fest there was/is a "Rattlesnake Food Booth" a little Hint,wait till "Closing Time" and they Give that Crap Away! Youroo!!
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:56 AM   #11652
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My victron battery monitor is in a bag, jammed under the battery box cover. I, too, need to fish/mount.
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:15 AM   #11653
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I installed a battery disconnect. I put it right on top of the battery box. The only thing I don't love is that the key has to be in it to keep power on. Had I thought about it more, I might have tried to mount elsewhere or used a different switch. I don't like the idea of some knucklehead being able to walk by, turn off battery power, and take the key. Otherwise, it was a pretty simple install.

Here is the model I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well, the battery disconnect didn't even last two months. After I installed it, we used the camper quite a bit, including a two-week trip to Disney and back. It has been parked in storage for about a month now and when I pulled it out, I couldn't get any battery power. I thought maybe the battery was going bad, so I isolated the new switch and found that it has failed. It is physically in perfect shape with no corrosion or visible damage. But for some reason, the internal connection is not working. Pretty disappointed in this product. I guess I will have to go back to manually removing the cables next time it goes into storage.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:10 AM   #11654
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Well, the battery disconnect didn't even last two months. After I installed it, we used the camper quite a bit, including a two-week trip to Disney and back. It has been parked in storage for about a month now and when I pulled it out, I couldn't get any battery power. I thought maybe the battery was going bad, so I isolated the new switch and found that it has failed. It is physically in perfect shape with no corrosion or visible damage. But for some reason, the internal connection is not working. Pretty disappointed in this product. I guess I will have to go back to manually removing the cables next time it goes into storage.
For $9, I'd replace it. You probably just got a lemon. There are a lot of those out there and I think yours is the first failure I've heard of.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:33 AM   #11655
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For $9, I'd replace it. You probably just got a lemon. There are a lot of those out there and I think yours is the first failure I've heard of.
Yeah, depends on whether I can remove it from the battery box cover. I drilled a hole in the cover and then sealed the heck out of it with silicone. Wasn't planning on it being something I'd redo every three months. I might contact the seller and see if they have any kind of warranty.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:28 AM   #11656
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Eppy,have you considered a "Fire Suppression System" for your Battery Mod area? You have a Lot more "Fire Power" than Most 12V Battery applications! PS,at the Balloon Fest there was/is a "Rattlesnake Food Booth" a little Hint,wait till "Closing Time" and they Give that Crap Away! Youroo!!

I definitely have plans for a smoke alarm down there. I just saw some wireless ones that link together so that when one goes off, they all do.

But an automatic fire suppression system problem isn’t a bad idea. Wouldn’t mind one there and maybe another in the dead space where my furnace and water heater are.

Thanks for the idea.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:29 AM   #11657
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My victron battery monitor is in a bag, jammed under the battery box cover. I, too, need to fish/mount.

The Bluetooth is just so dang convenient. I’ll really have to get motivated to mount it!

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Old 09-26-2017, 12:08 PM   #11658
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The Bluetooth is just so dang convenient. I’ll really have to get motivated to mount it!
Agreed.
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Old 09-26-2017, 03:06 PM   #11659
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Tire change yesterday and travel day today. We’ll stop every 40-50 miles until my nuts stop taking torque.

1 down so far...
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Old 09-26-2017, 03:11 PM   #11660
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My latest mod? (no pictures, but none are necessary..)

I removed one of the recliners from the rear of my 8329ss. I did this for two reasons... well.. 2-1/2 reasons actually.

#1 is that with both recliners in the back, its pretty cramped. I really don't know how you can position them so that you can use both at the same time. So seeing how I only need one (Miss Kelly prefers to sit on the sofa), it makes it much more comfortable to remove one. And now, I don't have to pull the one I want to use so far out to get room to actually turn it the way I want to sit. It actually frees up a bit of floor space when its in uses

#2 I have a sneaking suspicion that my camper is a bit nose-light when all is said and done. I have not weighed it yet, but I have the slightest little wiggle when I get passed (or when I pass something) that makes me think I could use a little more tongue weight. Pulling out that heavy recliners from virtually the back bumper can only help, and if it gets better, it will confirm my suspicions.

#2-1/2 I've been planning on putting a recliner down at my lake cabin from the get-go. The first plans I drew up showed it. However, that area was taken up with construction supplies and other stuff that accumulated over the last few years. Now that I have the storage locker done, and all that crap outta the cabin, I have room for the recliner. And the one out of the Rockwood is the right color.... So this saves me from having to buy another one.

It wasn't too bad removing it. I did it by myself and while its heavy, it was pretty easy to manhandle out the door. The back of the living room looks a little barren with only one recliner. I hope I get used to it. This weekend will be the test to see if I like it better with one recliner.

Tim
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