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Old 03-21-2018, 07:25 PM   #12681
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Originally Posted by RandK-M View Post
How did you turn the tongue jack? I need to do the same thing since my Ram's tailgate sticks out on top with the little spoiler thing and sometimes hits. I took a quick look last season, but it didn't look like the jack could turn on the shaft.

Ray
Fallowing along. Would like to do this as well.
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:44 PM   #12682
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Originally Posted by Feldhege View Post
I am going to steal your galley valve move idea. Hate having to crawl under the slide.
No problem! Easy to do. One piece of 1.5" black TV drain pipe, & two connections, a little abs glue & done for under $20.00.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:11 PM   #12683
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Originally Posted by RandK-M View Post
How did you turn the tongue jack? I need to do the same thing since my Ram's tailgate sticks out on top with the little spoiler thing and sometimes hits. I took a quick look last season, but it didn't look like the jack could turn on the shaft.

Ray
Ray, it was easy. I didn't take pictures, but you need to pull the side (2) rubber plugs in the head unit. Remove the bolts that are in the side of the unit. Also pull the top plug, and remove the two small screws that hold it to the top of the post. Then unplug the wires, mine has 2 connection plugs. You may have to make slack in the red wire that does not have a connector in the line to then pull the head unit off the post. Once you have done this, you will notice the holes are tapped and threaded. These are on the sides of the post. Also there are two holes front and rear already drilled in the post. You will need to tap these out to match the bolt thread. You may have to drill the hole out just a little more to fit the tap. I don't remember the drill or tap size, I had it on hand. I had to remove the propane tanks just long enough to tap the new holes. Once the new front and rear holes are tapped. Just put the head unit back on with the bolts installed in the front and rear holes. Put the 2 small screws back in the top, put the rubber plugs back in. Reconnect the wires, put the tanks back, cover in place & you should be done. You can put the switches on either right or left side. What ever works best for you.

Hope that makes sense and works out for you. Please let me know!

Gary.
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:26 AM   #12684
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Originally Posted by GreenZR View Post
Ray, it was easy. I didn't take pictures, but you need to pull the side (2) rubber plugs in the head unit. Remove the bolts that are in the side of the unit. Also pull the top plug, and remove the two small screws that hold it to the top of the post. Then unplug the wires, mine has 2 connection plugs. You may have to make slack in the red wire that does not have a connector in the line to then pull the head unit off the post. Once you have done this, you will notice the holes are tapped and threaded. These are on the sides of the post. Also there are two holes front and rear already drilled in the post. You will need to tap these out to match the bolt thread. You may have to drill the hole out just a little more to fit the tap. I don't remember the drill or tap size, I had it on hand. I had to remove the propane tanks just long enough to tap the new holes. Once the new front and rear holes are tapped. Just put the head unit back on with the bolts installed in the front and rear holes. Put the 2 small screws back in the top, put the rubber plugs back in. Reconnect the wires, put the tanks back, cover in place & you should be done. You can put the switches on either right or left side. What ever works best for you.

Hope that makes sense and works out for you. Please let me know!

Gary.
Thanks Gary! That sounds simple enough. I figured there must be at least one bolt in the head unit. I have plenty of taps so it should be easy. My tailgate sometimes hits the switches and other times will just clear depending on how perfect the hookup angle is. Definitely gonna do this once the snow goes away.

Ray
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Old 03-22-2018, 07:31 AM   #12685
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Originally Posted by RandK-M View Post
Thanks Gary! That sounds simple enough. I figured there must be at least one bolt in the head unit. I have plenty of taps so it should be easy. My tailgate sometimes hits the switches and other times will just clear depending on how perfect the hookup angle is. Definitely gonna do this once the snow goes away.

Ray
You are welcome!

Let me know how it turns out for you!

Gary.
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:46 AM   #12686
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Tailgate down hooked to our last RV a 2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK.
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:20 AM   #12687
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Yesterday I plowed the snow around mine. Today, I'll drink coffee and watch the snow melt.
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:33 AM   #12688
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Yesterday I plowed the snow around mine. Today, I'll drink coffee and watch the snow melt.
Looks like it's starting to awaken, getting tired of winter, SPRING HAS SPRUNG.
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:07 AM   #12689
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Yesterday I plowed the snow around mine. Today, I'll drink coffee and watch the snow melt.
Yep me 2. Not quite as much snow here but it has melted away from the camper about 4 foot on the south side of the rig. Still walking on top of snow on the north side though.

Think I'll grab some more coffee. It's gonna take a few more days to walk all the way around but gonna take a month to be able to pull it out of the back yard. Melting snow and the inevitable mud slick during frost out is between the street and camper location preventing any possible movement. Sure hope April goes by fast.
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Old 03-22-2018, 04:55 PM   #12690
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Just two layers of memory foam at what thickness


4” and 2” on top of the stock queen mattress
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Old 03-22-2018, 04:58 PM   #12691
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Not today, but in the last couple of days.



I extended the galley grey tank dump valve. From under the middle of the slide to closer to the wheels. That way I have access to both dump valves between the slides, without running them in.











Then turned the tongue jack head 90* to clear the tailgate when down and still hooked up to the RV.







Gary.


Turning tongue jack is a great idea, mine tailgate clears with it facing forward. Still a great idea
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:07 PM   #12692
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4” and 2” on top of the stock queen mattress
Will deep queen sheets fit this combined thickness or do you something else
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:59 PM   #12693
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Tailgate down hooked to our last RV a 2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK.
I wish that worked for me. I bought steel to extend my hitch. I'm nowhere near having clearance. Probably extend it 6 or 7 inches...
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:19 PM   #12694
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Last weekend installed new kitchen faucet with a pull down sprayer.

Also installed a new faucet in the bathroom sink. I hate the bathroom facets in most RVs. They barely stick out over the sink and that made it difficult to wash my hands. My new bathroom faucet has an arched spout that sticks out almost to center of the sink bowl.

I also installed matching wooden remote control holders for the TV and entertainment system. Now I don't have to worry about misplaced remote controls while enroute or using the RV. Also used one as a cell phone holder for when I charge my cell battery.
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:56 PM   #12695
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Added a soap dispenser to the counter.
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Old 03-23-2018, 03:33 PM   #12696
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Turning that jack would have been a lot cheaper than the $129 extended Equalizer shank for my E4 hitch :-)
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:07 PM   #12697
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Captain! I need more power!!!

Gang,

I had a new Deka 4D battery left over from my previous pop-up camper (a 1999 Palomino Filly SC). So, I finally figured out a way to transfer it to my new 2018 Cherokee Grey Wolf Limited.

I bought a Noco Battery Box on Amazon, and, picked up some 8 foot 8 hundred pound ratchet straps from Home Depot.

I removed the Group 24 battery and its small battery box that came from the manufacturer and replaced it with the Deka 904D in the new battery box. I had to put wood inside the new box with the big Deka to keep it from sliding around - easy.

I knew it was going to be tight - but, it's a perfect fit. Instead of sitting in the battery rack, the Deka in the Noco Box sits on top of the rack, racketed down nicely with the Home Depot straps.

Sweet. No more awning-running-down-the-battery-when-I'm-ready-to leave after a few days of boondocking. I always have the gennies on hand, but, this should be waaaaaaaay better.

Here are the links for the Deka 904D (290 minute reserve @ 25amps, FYI, I bought mine locally), the Noco Box (on Amazon for only $31!!!) and the Home Depot Ratchet Straps:

https://www.pascobattery.com/shipped...ery-4d-1050cca

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM408-Co.../dp/B002WCUR0M

I can't find a link for the ratchet straps online, but I bought the 2 of them at the local Home Depot for $20.

Hope this helps.

Happy trails,

CTSS
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Old 03-23-2018, 05:57 PM   #12698
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I really like the clean look of that battery box, and the way it fits in the stock frame. For the money that is a big upgrade. Jay
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Old 03-23-2018, 06:23 PM   #12699
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I really like the clean look of that battery box, and the way it fits in the stock frame. For the money that is a big upgrade. Jay
Thanks, Jay.

No drillng, no welding, no changes to the stock material at all. I knew it was going to be close, but, I didn't know it would fit so nicely. I even made sure I used black straps ( had to trim them a bit).

The clean look was the result of a few months of examining many different options.

Thanks, again.

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Old 03-23-2018, 06:36 PM   #12700
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Just spent waaaay too much at IKEA for furniture and cabinets. Got chairs for the dining room table, a bench for there with some storage underneath, new sofa sleeper, carpet, and a couple of cabinets for the wall.

I have to go back tomorrow for the sofa, unfortunately.

I joked about just taking the trailer to the parking lot. My wife called me stupid... and then we saw this guy!

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In preparation for taking a sofa home, I cleared my truck bed. The hitch has been in for so long, it “glued” itself to the truck bed. I had to loosen the draw down bolt, open the gooseneck pin, and actually hitch up to break the seal by raising the landing gear.

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And, today I discovered I have a sewer hose holder under the camper. I literally never saw it before. Should save me from making a vinyl fence post sewer holder.

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