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Old 11-11-2018, 10:24 PM   #14741
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What you're suggesting is exactly what I did 2 weeks ago while getting ready for a trip. The backed up pressure ended up blowing the internal spring past the sealing surface for the check valve so it cannot function and can not be repaired. I ended up installing a new brass check valve on the other end of the inlet hose by the filter canister.
I'd recommend DON'T probe inside the water inlet connection. Use an adapter and use compressed air to blow it out.
Pressure can reek havoc on the city water check valve and I've seen several blow apart too.

What I do now takes two people since my pump switch is inside. First, I relieve the pressure with the pump off, then go out and hold the check in with a screwdriver or other appropriate tool and have the DW turn on the pump switch for a couple seconds.

If I don't have a helper, I simply drain all but a little bit of pressure from the system and then go out and depress the check. Never an issue with low or almost no pressure.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:32 PM   #14742
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Pressure can reek havoc on the city water check valve and I've seen several blow apart too.

What I do now takes two people since my pump switch is inside. First, I relieve the pressure with the pump off, then go out and hold the check in with a screwdriver or other appropriate tool and have the DW turn on the pump switch for a couple seconds.

If I don't have a helper, I simply drain all but a little bit of pressure from the system and then go out and depress the check. Never an issue with low or almost no pressure.
The worse part of the whole thing was we were leaving at midnight with planned stops with no water hook up. And to top it off I really had no dang reason for messing with it. For some dumb reason I stuck my finger in there and pressed on it and all heck broke loose. Oh well, it's good now both the brass one. $8 lesson.
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:10 PM   #14743
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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
What you're suggesting is exactly what I did 2 weeks ago while getting ready for a trip. The backed up pressure ended up blowing the internal spring past the sealing surface for the check valve so it cannot function and can not be repaired. I ended up installing a new brass check valve on the other end of the inlet hose by the filter canister.
I'd recommend DON'T probe inside the water inlet connection. Use an adapter and use compressed air to blow it out.
If you open a faucet to reduce the pressure of the water system to the point of a dribble, you can push the center button of the fitting in and not blow the innards out, while still getting antifreeze through it. Pump off, of course.

You can take the city water fitting apart and fix it. You have to remove and disconnect the fitting from the rv. Then force the center pin down through the round spring stopper from the back side of the fitting. Pull the inner part out and re-assemble the o-ring and spring. Pop the round fiber ring back on to the stem and re-install the fitting.

The high pressure of the water system going out of the city water fitting in the direction it was not designed for is what knocks the o-ring out of place, causing it to not seal.
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:33 AM   #14744
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Originally Posted by 05CrewDually View Post
The worse part of the whole thing was we were leaving at midnight with planned stops with no water hook up. And to top it off I really had no dang reason for messing with it. For some dumb reason I stuck my finger in there and pressed on it and all heck broke loose. Oh well, it's good now both the brass one. $8 lesson.
Should you or anyone get in this predicament again, simply take a 99 cent garden hose shutoff, screw it on the city water port and close the valve.... cheap, instant, check valve.

I carry a few just in case!
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:38 AM   #14745
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Should you or anyone get in this predicament again, simply take a 99 cent garden hose shutoff, screw it on the city water port and close the valve.... cheap, instant, check valve.

I carry a few just in case!
That exactly was my backup! I carry one from an old expandable hose. I carry the expandable hose to use on the flushout.
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Old 11-12-2018, 01:20 PM   #14746
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Packed Up in the Rain

And it SUCKED!

Especially with a hybrid. Camper is now in the driveway setup with the heat on hoping to dry out the bunks that got wet putting them up this morning.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:33 AM   #14747
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After two nights of low to mid 20 nights, we winterized before packing up yesterday.
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Old 11-13-2018, 10:07 AM   #14748
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This is true on start up only, but your amp draw will be less running at 70 degrees outside then when running at FLA at 90 degrees outside was my point only, if your pulling 15 amps at 70 degrees outside you better get your unit checked. He said his amp draw was only 12 and I tried to explain it only.
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Hmmmm. My 15k Atwood with the MicroAir draws 14-15 amps when itís 95-97 degrees outside. Same unit continues to show the same amp draw when the temperature outside is 80 degrees. I donít see any difference in amp draw when running with or without the MicroAir. It seems only to effective when starting.
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:26 AM   #14749
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And it SUCKED!

Especially with a hybrid. Camper is now in the driveway setup with the heat on hoping to dry out the bunks that got wet putting them up this morning.
Edited: If the canvas is permanently attached all the way around, did the mattresses get wet or are you just drying out the canvas?
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Old 11-13-2018, 11:46 AM   #14750
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Winterized because temperatures are freezing and below (though they'll be back in the 70's next week, that's Texas for you.) And I finally installed the low point drain valves I bought in early summer.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:40 PM   #14751
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Winterized because temperatures are freezing and below (though they'll be back in the 70's next week, that's Texas for you.) And I finally installed the low point drain valves I bought in early summer.
Looks like you previously installed LCI's Waste Master Sewer Hose. How do you like it?
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:05 PM   #14752
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And it SUCKED!

Especially with a hybrid. Camper is now in the driveway setup with the heat on hoping to dry out the bunks that got wet putting them up this morning.
Setting up and tearing down in the rain is how I found a design flaw in my TT, the gutter drains right over the outside storage door so you get a steady stream of water on you.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:14 PM   #14753
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Setting up and tearing down in the rain is how I found a design flaw in my TT, the gutter drains right over the outside storage door so you get a steady stream of water on you.
Yup. Found that out too.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:16 PM   #14754
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Edited: If the canvas is permanently attached all the way around, did the mattresses get wet or are you just drying out the canvas?
It's the mattresses. And we're not 100% sure how it happened. Our best guess is that because it was pouring, cold, and we were in a hurry that once we dropped the supports the canvas started pooling water. We didn't push the canvas back out to clear the water before folding the bunks up and it must've just been too much.

Anyhow we're fairly certain no permanent damage was done. I was joking with my wife that we ought to just plug in the bunk heaters and turn them on to dry them out. She didn't laugh.
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Old 11-13-2018, 02:33 PM   #14755
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Winterized.
In Houston, TX.
Because forecast is <30 next 2 nights.
More than a week b4 Thanksgiving.
This is crazy.
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:15 PM   #14756
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And at the north end of the country we were below zero this morning.
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:30 PM   #14757
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Make sure you wrap some insulation around them drains for the cold, they would still be the first to freeze if anything was going to. I put shut offs above the bottom inside so water or anything else couldn't be exposed and never worried about them again..
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Winterized because temperatures are freezing and below (though they'll be back in the 70's next week, that's Texas for you.) And I finally installed the low point drain valves I bought in early summer.
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:56 PM   #14758
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Looks like you previously installed LCI's Waste Master Sewer Hose. How do you like it?
Yes, That was the first mod we did. Had it installed before we picked it up. I love it. I think the camlock is so much more secure and easier to use than the alligator clip one. Less messy. I like that it has a clear channel at the business end that allows me to see the waste. I also like the flex hose feature that expands to almost double the length
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:22 PM   #14759
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Yes, That was the first mod we did. Had it installed before we picked it up. I love it. I think the camlock is so much more secure and easier to use than the alligator clip one. Less messy. I like that it has a clear channel at the business end that allows me to see the waste. I also like the flex hose feature that expands to almost double the length
I did the opposite. My Forester came with the Wastemaster as standard equipment. It was not the best fit when the hose exited through the big hole in the compartment floor. I got the adapter that converts the Wastmaster outlet to a Rhinoflex. I put the clear 90 degree adapter in place and now the Rhino hose exits straight down from the tank valves outlet.

Iíve been using the Rhino system for many years and have never had a problem with anything being ďmessyĒ. The Wastemaster is a great system but just to heavy and bulky for me.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:35 AM   #14760
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Setting up and tearing down in the rain is how I found a design flaw in my TT, the gutter drains right over the outside storage door so you get a steady stream of water on you.
me 2
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