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Old 05-02-2019, 12:30 PM   #15661
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As I'm typing this, DW should be cleaning out the TT. Windy season has been upon us; had a couple roof vents open a crack and so much dust and dirt blew in creating a mess. Heading out tomorrow for our second trip of the year.

Safe and happy travels.
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:09 PM   #15662
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Got in my tv cable outlet, installed it today. Now the cable that was split from the antenna via the amplifier to the radio and a left side outlet now just feeds the radio. The cable connected to the previous output is directly fed to the top of the new dual wall fitting. It's the plate nearest the wall with the white screws. Had to order it from Amazon to get the plate in black. Local stores only had white.
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:35 AM   #15663
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Has anyone experienced this on their cabinet door glass? It is similar to car window darkening film with a textured back. Iíve tried to heat it with no luck. [ATTACH]203571
[ATTACH]203572

Thanks for any assistance
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Old 05-03-2019, 08:50 AM   #15664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brand2328 View Post
Has anyone experienced this on their cabinet door glass? It is similar to car window darkening film with a textured back. Iíve tried to heat it with no luck. [ATTACH]203571
[ATTACH]203572

Thanks for any assistance
Thatís dust particles caught between the film and glass. Not repairable. needs tone removed and replaced.
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Old 05-03-2019, 02:42 PM   #15665
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Originally Posted by emm-dee View Post
Thatís dust particles caught between the film and glass. Not repairable. needs tone removed and replaced.


It wasnít like that two years ago but I guess itís just separated because of the dust thanks.
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Old 05-03-2019, 02:48 PM   #15666
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Have another question for the forum. My rocker switch for the awning LED lights does not have a illumination switch when they are turned on. Does anybody else have this situation? Is there a reason for this condition? All my other light switches do. Iíve tried to wire an illuminating rocker switch to it but no luck. It has two wires that go out to the LED strip.
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Old 05-03-2019, 03:19 PM   #15667
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Originally Posted by Brand2328 View Post
Have another question for the forum. My rocker switch for the awning LED lights does not have a illumination switch when they are turned on. Does anybody else have this situation? Is there a reason for this condition? All my other light switches do. Iíve tried to wire an illuminating rocker switch to it but no luck. It has two wires that go out to the LED strip.
You need a switch like this one:

https://jrproducts.net/product/13685/

They come in many styles/colors. Your biggest problem will be finding one to match your other switches.

When you find one, you simply wire it as shown below. Your existing +12VDC wire goes to one contact, the existing wire to the LEDs on the second contact and you wire the 3rd contact to any ground wire in the control panel (there is surely one there). See below.

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I wired my Fridge fans to illuminated rocker switches in this same way.

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UPDATE: Just noticed you say there are two wires "out to the LED strip." If there are 2 wires, I would guess one is the power from the switch (when its ON) going to the LEDs (same as the green wire in my diagram) and the other is the ground coming back; it probably goes to a ground somewhere in the control panel. Just wire the black wire (in my diagram) to the same place.

See revised diagram below:

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If you have a pic, that would help.
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Old 05-03-2019, 06:06 PM   #15668
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What did you do to your camper today?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
You need a switch like this one:



https://jrproducts.net/product/13685/



They come in many styles/colors. Your biggest problem will be finding one to match your other switches.



When you find one, you simply wire it as shown below. Your existing +12VDC wire goes to one contact, the existing wire to the LEDs on the second contact and you wire the 3rd contact to any ground wire in the control panel (there is surely one there). See below.



Attachment 203606



I wired my Fridge fans to illuminated rocker switches in this same way.



Attachment 203607Attachment 203608



UPDATE: Just noticed you say there are two wires "out to the LED strip." If there are 2 wires, I would guess one is the power from the switch (when its ON) going to the LEDs (same as the green wire in my diagram) and the other is the ground coming back; it probably goes to a ground somewhere in the control panel. Just wire the black wire (in my diagram) to the same place.



See revised diagram below:



Attachment 203617



If you have a pic, that would help.

Here is what I have. Even though there are three wire connections on the switch only two are used and itís non-illuminating.

[ATTACH]203630

The two wires going to the LED are spliced together at the switch. At the LED strip there are only two wires. Makes no sense to me.
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Old 05-03-2019, 06:22 PM   #15669
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Originally Posted by Brand2328 View Post
Here is what I have. Even though there are three wire connections on the switch only two are used and it’s non-illuminating.

[ATTACH]203630

The two wires going to the LED are spliced together at the switch. At the LED strip there are only two wires. Makes no sense to me.
There may actually be 2 LED strips, hence 2 wires.

I've never seen a non-illuminated switch with 3 actual "connections." Illuminated and non-illuminated usually look identical on the back except one connection is missing on the non-illuminated version. If yours has the 3rd connection, maybe it IS illuminated, but just isn't hooked up properly. You could try running the 3rd connection to a ground and see what happens, but first I'd swap the two existing wire connections, as I discuss below.

I'd get an illuminated switch and wire it up as in my 1st diagram, although my single green wire would be replaced by your two LED wires. You need to make sure that the +12VDC is connected to the proper contact, though. USUALLY the +12VDC is at one end and the lamp ground is at the other end, with the switched load in the middle, as I've shown in my diagram. For your non-illuminated two-wire connection switch, it doesn't matter which one you use for +12VDC, but I'm guessing yours is wired backward from "convention." The +12VDC "should" be on the connection at the end rather than in the middle. The FR guys probably know that it doesn't matter for a non-illuminated switch and therefore don't bother making sure it's done "right."
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Old 05-03-2019, 06:37 PM   #15670
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Hydraulic leveler maintainence. Topped off fluid. Then remembered I was parked on a hill. Hope I did not add too much.
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:58 PM   #15671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
There may actually be 2 LED strips, hence 2 wires.

I've never seen a non-illuminated switch with 3 actual "connections." Illuminated and non-illuminated usually look identical on the back except one connection is missing on the non-illuminated version. If yours has the 3rd connection, maybe it IS illuminated, but just isn't hooked up properly. You could try running the 3rd connection to a ground and see what happens, but first I'd swap the two existing wire connections, as I discuss below.

I'd get an illuminated switch and wire it up as in my 1st diagram, although my single green wire would be replaced by your two LED wires. You need to make sure that the +12VDC is connected to the proper contact, though. USUALLY the +12VDC is at one end and the lamp ground is at the other end, with the switched load in the middle, as I've shown in my diagram. For your non-illuminated two-wire connection switch, it doesn't matter which one you use for +12VDC, but I'm guessing yours is wired backward from "convention." The +12VDC "should" be on the connection at the end rather than in the middle. The FR guys probably know that it doesn't matter for a non-illuminated switch and therefore don't bother making sure it's done "right."


Thanks for your help. I will continue to try and figure it out. I was thinking the same thing as to two strips. Canít see it from the ground will put up a ladder in the morning.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:29 PM   #15672
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Installed an RV Lock keyless entry. Love it already. I did find that the old lock wasn’t broken. Just a missing screw. How a screw can fall out in a sealed area and not be found. Oh well, new lock is in and I have a backup.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:44 PM   #15673
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Propane storage bays

The propane compartments are difficult not to dent the lip where the weatherstripping goes. Seems no matter how careful I tried to be when removing or reinstalling the tanks, I would bend the lip. Took 2 short pieces of 1/2” square tube and mounted them inside the lip of the door. One side, the shelf the tank sits on was a bit low. The tank did not sit flat in the compartment. Road vibrations would slowly bulge out the door. Cut some extra vinyl flooring to raise the tank just enough. Tank still sits in the shelf, just a tad higher.

I had already straightened the bends in the lip on the inside of the door by the time I took the photos.
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:38 AM   #15674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
You need a switch like this one:



https://jrproducts.net/product/13685/



They come in many styles/colors. Your biggest problem will be finding one to match your other switches.



When you find one, you simply wire it as shown below. Your existing +12VDC wire goes to one contact, the existing wire to the LEDs on the second contact and you wire the 3rd contact to any ground wire in the control panel (there is surely one there). See below.



Attachment 203606



I wired my Fridge fans to illuminated rocker switches in this same way.



Attachment 203607Attachment 203608



UPDATE: Just noticed you say there are two wires "out to the LED strip." If there are 2 wires, I would guess one is the power from the switch (when its ON) going to the LEDs (same as the green wire in my diagram) and the other is the ground coming back; it probably goes to a ground somewhere in the control panel. Just wire the black wire (in my diagram) to the same place.



See revised diagram below:



Attachment 203617



If you have a pic, that would help.


I took the new switch home and it works fine. I was hoping it was bad.
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Old 05-04-2019, 02:59 PM   #15675
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Productive morning... got on roof and all looked good. Cleaned off all the fine dirt built up on the roof vents. Found a cracking rubber seal. Opened access panels and cleaned out debris and more dirt.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:14 PM   #15676
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I took the patio furniture that I stored in it for the winter out and put the beer cooler back in. My wife took inventory of needed supplies and started restocking. Our first trip is going to be on Memorial Day weekend. I'm going to move it from it's winter parking spot to the driveway tomorrow.

I found an unwanted guest on one of the sticky traps but didn't find any others or any damage. I hope it was a loner.
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:01 PM   #15677
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I went and got it out of storage.
Laid out all of the led lights I purchased.
Got under the silverback to make a game plan.
Ran to home depot to get the rest of the supplies I needed.
And rolled around on the creeper for a little while. 3 hourish.
Getting ready for the 3 day Disney trip for memorial day. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-04-2019, 08:56 PM   #15678
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The propane compartments are difficult not to dent the lip where the weatherstripping goes. Seems no matter how careful I tried to be when removing or reinstalling the tanks, I would bend the lip. Took 2 short pieces of 1/2Ē square tube and mounted them inside the lip of the door. One side, the shelf the tank sits on was a bit low. The tank did not sit flat in the compartment. Road vibrations would slowly bulge out the door. Cut some extra vinyl flooring to raise the tank just enough. Tank still sits in the shelf, just a tad higher.

I had already straightened the bends in the lip on the inside of the door by the time I took the photos.


Hmmm. I had not noticed bending anything. I have to have the opening on the handle area to go in first...then do a Houdini move to get it in and tilted in place. Did you have it clamped a retained at the top?
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:05 PM   #15679
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No, my clamp wraps around the middle. It was easier for me to set the bottom in first, then tilt in the top. When I tried doing it top in first, I almost dropped the tank. Now, I can set the tank in with ease, without worrying about damaging the opening. My opening has a very thin, easily bent lip just inside the opening, so....this solved the problem.
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:14 PM   #15680
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I took the new switch home and it works fine. I was hoping it was bad.
What new switch? Thought you only had the original one that was installed without illumination?
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