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Old 02-24-2020, 12:24 PM   #16881
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Originally Posted by Funengineer View Post
Just need to find a block off plate so I can remove the micro switch.
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...595-ND/3855108

Under $1 each...but $5 for shipping...
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:55 PM   #16882
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https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...595-ND/3855108



Under $1 each...but $5 for shipping...


I plan to stop at dealerships to see if I can find one and avoid shipping.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:00 PM   #16883
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An this year the Reese Revolution pinbox thing needs to be dropped a little and some grease sprayed in.

Good luck. I bought the maintenance kit which includes lube, new bushing, skid plate, and bolts. I couldn’t get the king pin bolt to budge one iota. This was a very stiff/tight Revolution that didn’t budge by hand.
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Old 02-24-2020, 08:21 PM   #16884
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Picked it up from RVroof.com Had the roof sprayed with the monolithic coating, which fixed a small leak I had, and eliminated all the maintenance with lap sealant. It looks great.
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Old 02-24-2020, 11:15 PM   #16885
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Good luck. I bought the maintenance kit which includes lube, new bushing, skid plate, and bolts. I couldn’t get the king pin bolt to budge one iota. This was a very stiff/tight Revolution that didn’t budge by hand.
Mine too. It has been tight from the beginning. And still is. Better tight than loose I guess.

Getting the big nut off isn't fun, but is the easy part.

Working the moving part of the hitch down 1/4" to allow greasing is a job. It takes a long steel lever arm between the pin and wedge to work it back and forth 120 degrees maybe 20 times. I've never found a way to grease the pin though it does seem to need it. I did work it down one inch once to get lube on the upper inch, but that didn't free it up.

BTW, at 3 years old, my wedge fell apart; the two lower 1/4" layers fell off. The Reese Revolution arm pivoted on the hitch pin and on it's own shaft. It swung around about 50 degrees on the hitch pin until one of the two bolts wedged onto the ramp of the hitch. Scary, it happened on a winding road with no shoulders.

The new wedge (not free) had much much deeper welds. Maybe 1/2" deep compared to 1/8" deep or less on the first wedge purchased in late 2014.

You might want to check yours to see how deep the welds are (they form a groove above that you can measure). I can send photos if you are interested. PM me.
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:31 PM   #16886
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Improved my furnace.

I pulled my intake cover off my furnace to clean any manufacturing debris out, I have been finding build leftovers all over and to my surprise there was no intake hole.The furnace I have intakes from the opposite side of the intake grill.

This model like others I see can just blow the heat out the front no ducts needed so just a front cover instead of the cap. So essentially the way they have it installed it draws air from the storage compartment along with all the dirt and smells that compartment will see in its travels. Not to mention the hanging duct through the compartment.

I relocated the vent and separated the furnace from the storage.The furnace draws the majority of the fresh air from the cabin only now.The air from both ducts are the same temp now, the furthest duct was half the temp of the other one originally.
I used a battery powered light to cover the vent hole up.I can reach through the stairs now and turn on a light now.

Also moved the gas line so it sits on the floor instead of the marker wires.


















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Old 02-26-2020, 07:32 PM   #16887
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:02 PM   #16888
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Well was actually yesterday Added a Maxair Vent cover on front vent, Swapped out toilet fro Dometic 300 to 310, and wired the antenna outside for the Weboost 65RV on the 2020 Rockwood Mini lite 2109s
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Old 02-26-2020, 09:19 PM   #16889
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Just replaced last tire and spare with Goodyear Endurance tires. Now have the entire set of Endurance tires.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:29 PM   #16890
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Replaced four Maxxis four year-old tires with Endurance. Had them balanced. Spare is an unused Maxxis (four years old). It's inside under the bed wrapped in plastic so should be good for another year or two. 5er came with C rated tires. The Maxxis were D and now the Endurance are E. E is overkill, but the stronger side-wall can't hurt. Also, I could not find D rated Endurance. They came from an Amazon seller .... were only two months old.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:50 PM   #16891
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Originally Posted by -lenny- View Post
Back in December I found a set of MorRyde Step Above for sale locally. Installed them and love them, but still had the (recalled) Hickory Springs steps installed. I had previously bolted some expanded aluminum to the bottom of their frame for shoe storage. Today I drilled the rivets out so I could remove the steps but keep the shoe storage....Attachment 223797Attachment 223798Attachment 223799
Those propane cylinder should be upright.
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:26 PM   #16892
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Those propane cylinder should be upright.
I saw that and *knew* someone would say something eventually.
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Old 02-27-2020, 04:08 PM   #16893
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Those propane cylinder should be upright.
Which picture has the propane cylinders y’all are talking about? I can only see fire bottles.
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:01 PM   #16894
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Paired the truck and four GM TPMS sensors that got installed with new tires on the 5er a couple days ago. Duck soup. Now I will see a DIC warning if a trailer tire pressure or temperature gets out of range. And see which one and actual pressure and temperature via the Trailer App.
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Old 02-27-2020, 07:04 PM   #16895
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The 5er has two recliners. There was no room for them to swivel so I took the heavy swivel mechanisms off years ago. Finally got to the next step, putting down some pieces of wood that the bases straddle to keep the recliners from moving around in transit. I don't know why that took five years.
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:28 AM   #16896
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Changed Taillights, got a HUGE Surprise.

Had an issue last time out of my R taillight not working. Turned out to be a corroded bulb socket. Got it cleaned and working but decided I wanted to change to LED taillights. No problem, nice Optronics set w/ 3 wires, right? White, Black and Green, same as the old set.

I prefer to do things well, so to that end I cut, stripped, soldered each of the leads to the same color wire from the old connections.

Guess what,the tail lights worked VERY bright and the only light flashing was the license plate light with the emergency flashers activated.

Cut the wires apart, re-soldered with the Black and green reversed and Voila, perfect lights. Once I knew they were correct I put heat shrink on each connection too.

Had only I just twisted the wires together and checked them first it would have saved me double work.

Test first, then solder..............I KNEW Better and did it anyway, after all, how could the colors be mixed up?
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:36 AM   #16897
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Had an issue last time out of my R taillight not working. Turned out to be a corroded bulb socket. Got it cleaned and working but decided I wanted to change to LED taillights. No problem, nice Optronics set w/ 3 wires, right? White, Black and Green, same as the old set.

I prefer to do things well, so to that end I cut, stripped, soldered each of the leads to the same color wire from the old connections.

Guess what,the tail lights worked VERY bright and the only light flashing was the license plate light with the emergency flashers activated.

Cut the wires apart, re-soldered with the Black and green reversed and Voila, perfect lights. Once I knew they were correct I put heat shrink on each connection too.

Had only I just twisted the wires together and checked them first it would have saved me double work.

Test first, then solder..............I KNEW Better and did it anyway, after all, how could the colors be mixed up?
Been there, done that I'll try to remember next wiring project coming up with back up camera.

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Old 02-28-2020, 11:15 AM   #16898
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Test first, then solder...
And if you are going to use heat-shrink tubing, put it over the wire before soldering. Doesn't stretch over sockets, switches, etc very easily. (ask me how I know...)
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Old 02-28-2020, 03:29 PM   #16899
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Wife and I loaded the groceries, our clothes and the 2 new folding E-bikes into the 5'er today. Heading out tomorrow for 30 days in Port Aransas. Stopping along the way in Waco to see the Silos and get a cupcake at Magnolia and stopping in Austin for 2 nights on the way back, hoping to see some bats fly.
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Old 02-28-2020, 03:35 PM   #16900
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
Had an issue last time out of my R taillight not working. Turned out to be a corroded bulb socket. Got it cleaned and working but decided I wanted to change to LED taillights. No problem, nice Optronics set w/ 3 wires, right? White, Black and Green, same as the old set.

I prefer to do things well, so to that end I cut, stripped, soldered each of the leads to the same color wire from the old connections.

Guess what,the tail lights worked VERY bright and the only light flashing was the license plate light with the emergency flashers activated.

Cut the wires apart, re-soldered with the Black and green reversed and Voila, perfect lights. Once I knew they were correct I put heat shrink on each connection too.

Had only I just twisted the wires together and checked them first it would have saved me double work.

Test first, then solder..............I KNEW Better and did it anyway, after all, how could the colors be mixed up?
Not surprising. Those guys building these things don't much care what colors they use. Found this out when I wired a 4-pin connector from my bike rack lights into the J-box under the trailer.

What does surprise me is that even though they don't seem to follow the proper color convention, I've never seen anyone complain that their lights didn't work properly. So it seems that whatever color they choose for each function, they seem to manage to be consistent with it for all the lights.
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