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Old 06-09-2020, 02:40 PM   #17221
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Rear View Camera

Today I installed the camera half of a rear view camera on the back of our camper. I gained access in the back of the cabinet over the rear window.

After cutting an access panel I drilled the rear siding to allow the camera to be thru bolted to it. Lexel sealed the perimeter of the camera to prevent any leaks.

I tapped into the running lights on the back end to power the camera. This will only activate the camera when I turn on the truck headlights.

I mounted the transmitter inside the cabinet to keep it weather proof and reduce the mass between it and the receiver in the truck by the thickness of the rear siding (Not much I know but every little bit helps).

Im planning on connecting the truck receiver tomorrow.
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Old 06-09-2020, 09:04 PM   #17222
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I sold it!

Bought it and sold it.

Never used it once.

Sold my 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie and bought a 2019 Ram 1500 Limited.

Done with camping after 3 Class A Gassers, 6 Diesel Pushers and 3 Fifth Wheels.

5 star Mexico holidays in the winter and Driving holidays to B+Bís the rest of the year.
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:27 AM   #17223
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Just got it out of the shop having the front cap repainted. Wanted to see how the flag looked or do I need to go back to the factory decals. If I decide to keep the flag I think it needs something just below it. Suggestions are welcome.
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:36 AM   #17224
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Hot water heater was making noise on electric. Replaced the anode rod and heating element, she is nice and quiet now.
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Old 06-10-2020, 08:59 AM   #17225
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Flag

Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors View Post
Just got it out of the shop having the front cap repainted. Wanted to see how the flag looked or do I need to go back to the factory decals. If I decide to keep the flag I think it needs something just below it. Suggestions are welcome.
Keep the flag. God Bless America.
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Old 06-10-2020, 09:57 AM   #17226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors View Post
Just got it out of the shop having the front cap repainted. Wanted to see how the flag looked or do I need to go back to the factory decals. If I decide to keep the flag I think it needs something just below it. Suggestions are welcome.
Try it a little lower...maybe just below the seam.
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Old 06-10-2020, 02:52 PM   #17227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors View Post
Just got it out of the shop having the front cap repainted. Wanted to see how the flag looked or do I need to go back to the factory decals. If I decide to keep the flag I think it needs something just below it. Suggestions are welcome.
I like the flag. I think it looks great. But it looks like it needs to be a little lower, maybe a foot or so.
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Old 06-10-2020, 02:55 PM   #17228
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Installed a real door holder. The friction hinge does not work in a wind.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:42 PM   #17229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors View Post
Just got it out of the shop having the front cap repainted. Wanted to see how the flag looked or do I need to go back to the factory decals. If I decide to keep the flag I think it needs something just below it. Suggestions are welcome.
I was born free, I choose to stay that way!

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Old 06-10-2020, 04:49 PM   #17230
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Bought it and sold it.

Never used it once.

Sold my 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie and bought a 2019 Ram 1500 Limited.

Done with camping after 3 Class A Gassers, 6 Diesel Pushers and 3 Fifth Wheels.

5 star Mexico holidays in the winter and Driving holidays to B+Bís the rest of the year.


Absolutely love my Limited 1500, you'll certainly enjoy the trips to the B&B's in it.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:56 PM   #17231
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Thanks to those who replied. The flag will stay. We tried placing it just below the seam but then the area above the seam looked blank and I did not want to place anything above the flag.

I am looking at some custom lettering below the flag with colors matching but not detracting from the flag.

I think it will look fine when done.
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Old 06-10-2020, 04:58 PM   #17232
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Battery bank and Aili monitor

I installed two Duracell 6v Golf cart batteries at 12v, 235ah. Also an Aili v/a/ah/capacity level. I watched my WFCO 8955 charge it at 13.65v at 9amps, then 2amps, then .5 amps in about 24 hours. Assuming they were close to full when purchased, it was topping off the charge. After 24 hours, still charging at +-13.65v, +-.5amps the battery disconnected read 13.11v after about 4 hours of rest.

The question I have is I thought the converter was a three stage and the voltage would change from 14+v, to 13.6v, then 13.3v. Is my converter working correctly?

Samtummo
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Old 06-10-2020, 05:07 PM   #17233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors View Post
Thanks to those who replied. The flag will stay. We tried placing it just below the seam but then the area above the seam looked blank and I did not want to place anything above the flag.

I am looking at some custom lettering below the flag with colors matching but not detracting from the flag.

I think it will look fine when done.
I love the flag! Wherever you decide to place it will look great.
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Old 06-11-2020, 06:47 AM   #17234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samTummo View Post
I installed two Duracell 6v Golf cart batteries at 12v, 235ah. Also an Aili v/a/ah/capacity level. I watched my WFCO 8955 charge it at 13.65v at 9amps, then 2amps, then .5 amps in about 24 hours. Assuming they were close to full when purchased, it was topping off the charge. After 24 hours, still charging at +-13.65v, +-.5amps the battery disconnected read 13.11v after about 4 hours of rest.

The question I have is I thought the converter was a three stage and the voltage would change from 14+v, to 13.6v, then 13.3v. Is my converter working correctly?

Samtummo
I have the same batteries, converter and monitor. Compare the voltage at the converter (requires a meter) to the voltage displayed on the monitor. You may find a significant drop. I did.

I believe that will interfere with optimal charging. My resolution is improving the wiring between converter and battery. I'm still in the process and have not assessed the impact on the charging process. The voltage drop is significantly improved. It's now < 2%.

Because I paid for the solar prewire option but have not installed a panel or controller, I had a spare #8 conductor from the area of the converter to the battery. I paired that with the existing #8 main power line. The combined gauge is now effectively #5.
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:44 AM   #17235
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Thanks Chris
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:53 AM   #17236
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Thanks Chris
Some people find the WFCO converter/charger unsatisfactory and replace it with a drop-in model from Progressive Dynamics. I'm willing to do that if necessary but am not drawing conclusions until I observe the effects of the improved wiring. I'd have to upgrade the wiring when replacing the converter, anyway.

Edit: I should acknowledge significant information sharing from users @TitanMike and @bacock on my project.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:00 AM   #17237
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Compare the voltage at the converter (requires a meter) to the voltage displayed on the monitor. You may find a significant drop. I did.
Perhaps worth noting....
The voltage difference is a function of the current. As the batteries get charged, the current drops, and the voltage delta will drop. SO, they'll still charge fully, it'll just take a little longer. It really depends on your usage as to if that'll matter.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:18 AM   #17238
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Perhaps worth noting....
The voltage difference is a function of the current. As the batteries get charged, the current drops, and the voltage delta will drop. SO, they'll still charge fully, it'll just take a little longer. It really depends on your usage as to if that'll matter.
You should be able to measure the voltage drop accurately using the hot side of the cutoff switch as the positive source, with the switch off, correct? The charge state of the battery would be irrelevant, in that case.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:25 AM   #17239
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You should be able to measure the voltage drop accurately using the hot side of the cutoff switch as the positive source, with the switch off, correct? The charge state of the battery would be irrelevant, in that case.
If there's no current, then there won't be any voltage drop. That's how "signal wire" (low low current) can be so small. Usually it's resistance to breaking when handling is what dictates the size..
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:39 AM   #17240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samTummo View Post
I installed two Duracell 6v Golf cart batteries at 12v, 235ah. Also an Aili v/a/ah/capacity level. I watched my WFCO 8955 charge it at 13.65v at 9amps, then 2amps, then .5 amps in about 24 hours. Assuming they were close to full when purchased, it was topping off the charge. After 24 hours, still charging at +-13.65v, +-.5amps the battery disconnected read 13.11v after about 4 hours of rest.

The question I have is I thought the converter was a three stage and the voltage would change from 14+v, to 13.6v, then 13.3v. Is my converter working correctly?

Samtummo
Yes, the converter is working as designed. Lead Acid batteries can't take high charge rates once the capacity reaches about 50% full without the temperature of the electrolyte becoming so high the water will boil out of the electrolyte destroying the battery.

The converter is designed to "stage" as the battery fills. The charge rate drops from stage 1 BULK charge to stage 2 ABSORBTION between 50% charged to about 80% charge. Once it gets to 80% charged, the battery can no longer sustain that rate, so the charge rate drops again to stage 3 FLOAT and will stay there until the battery is completely charged.

I attached the manual for the WFCO 8900 that explains this in depth on page 6 and a troubleshooting guide if you suspect an issue.

NOTE: The OEM WFCO converter is optimized for lead acid batteries. Should you buy any other chemistry battery, you should make sure the converter you buy supports that chemistry.
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