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Old 09-22-2014, 09:53 PM   #1901
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Seeing as how TOWTA has such a distaste for the day/night shades in the 5er, and as usual, gets her way, we just ordered venetian blinds for all the windows.



Anyone want any day/night shades CHEAP?

The DW has been wanting to do that. Did you order a specific brand ? I assume that they would have to be real light cause there's not much meat in the wall to hold them up right ?


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Old 09-22-2014, 10:44 PM   #1902
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I dragged my trailer to Lake Murray (OK) State Park and set it up for a 12 night stay.


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Which park are you staying at on the lake? Been wanting to go but OK's non-existent reservation policy makes me nervous about going only to be told no more spots when we get there late on a Friday...
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:02 AM   #1903
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The DW has been wanting to do that. Did you order a specific brand ? I assume that they would have to be real light cause there's not much meat in the wall to hold them up right ?


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We got 2" aluminum blinds from blinds galore, been up for over a year with no problems, also bought some small curtain cleats to tie the bottom of blinds down. Love them would have nothing else!


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Old 09-23-2014, 06:01 AM   #1904
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I have aluminum blinds in mine and I hate them. It doesn't take much to bend them and my windows have the nobs that you turn to open. The blinds get hung on them. I am looking at a pleated stringless shade from lowes (allan and roth). About $1000.00 to change them all.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:18 AM   #1905
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The DW has been wanting to do that. Did you order a specific brand ? I assume that they would have to be real light cause there's not much meat in the wall to hold them up right?
Steve's Blinds. Shouldn't be much if any heavier than the day/night shades.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:23 AM   #1906
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Steve's Blinds. Shouldn't be much if any heavier than the day/night shades.

Thanks OC, I'll check'm out.


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Old 09-23-2014, 06:37 AM   #1907
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I had a 31x61 poured a few years ago....it was $1....and some cents a foot. Plus the dirt work and the concrete.

Just ask around. This guy did a wonderful job. Dug the footings and finished the concrete. I put the wire and plastic down. I also say put the mesh in. Others may say no.


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The poster looking to add a pad should have no problems with just adding fibers to the mix, no need for wire mesh. I would prep the pad with gravel though, and not pour onto the dirt. Would also tie into any existing concrete to keep it from seperating.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:43 AM   #1908
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I have aluminum blinds in mine and I hate them. It doesn't take much to bend them and my windows have the nobs that you turn to open. The blinds get hung on them. I am looking at a pleated stringless shade from lowes (allan and roth). About $1000.00 to change them all.
On other trailers we've had, they cut the slats off around the knobs so they didn't interfere. Never had a problem with them. The day/night shades are a nightmare with the knobs and nothing you can do about it. We seldom open the windows except in the bedroom and it doesn't have the knob.
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Old 09-23-2014, 06:59 AM   #1909
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If you are asking me, my trailer is 18.5' from tongue to back bumper. I am looking at a 10X20 pad. The quotes so far have come in at $1900-$2000 and that is just for a 4" thick pad on prepped dirt.
Do you know what that cost would be to lay down asphalt with a good gravel base rather than concrete?
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:25 AM   #1910
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I have an idea of moving my trailer to the fenced part of my yard. This will be a reasonable sized job....culvert, large gate and maybe a tree or two, but if I do I am gonna pour pads for the tires and jacks. Less evasive and ALOT cheaper. Just a thought.


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Old 09-23-2014, 07:35 AM   #1911
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Do you know what that cost would be to lay down asphalt with a good gravel base rather than concrete?
I haven't looked at asphalt as contractors are not as common as concrete contractors in my area. Also with a concrete drive I would rather stay with materials that are closer in color.
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:45 AM   #1912
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A little advice...

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If you are asking me, my trailer is 18.5' from tongue to back bumper. I am looking at a 10X20 pad. The quotes so far have come in at $1900-$2000 and that is just for a 4" thick pad on prepped dirt. I live in the Piedmont of NC so don't have to worry about footings or frost line.

The reason I've been looking at concrete is it will have less moisture under the trailer. The area of our yard where the drive is located stays moist most of the year. Great for the grass but not so good for mechanical things. I've thought about going with gravel and pavers or full pavers. I think the full pavers will keep the moisture under control but I'm not sure I want to do the work to keep the cost down not to mention another project. As for the gravel I suspect it will have moisture issues just like the area currently has. For now I have room for everything on the drive it just means I have to play musical cars to change which vehicle I drive at any given time.
Be sure to put down a very thick moisture barrier before they pour the concrete. I think 4 mils is good (check, it's been a while for me) You will want 3/8"~1/2" rebar at 18" on center if you don't want it to shatter. It has to be tied and on saddles before they pour. The little concrete blocks with wires on top work well too, and they're cheap. Don't let them B.S. you that they can "pull" the wire mesh up into the middle of the slab-they can't.
The most important thing is to compact the he** out of the dirt before the pour. You need at least 95% compaction. Damp dirt compacts the best, so if you're bringing in fill or digging up what you got, damp it down a little before you put it in. If the dirt has been undisturbed for ten years or so, it should be at a good compaction already so leave it alone.
I would also put trowel lines in the concrete, probably 4' on center, to control where it cracks. I put in 2X4s in our driveway at 8' on center to create smaller separate slabs. Much easier than one big slab IMO.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:11 AM   #1913
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Be sure to put down a very thick moisture barrier before they pour the concrete. I think 4 mils is good (check, it's been a while for me) You will want 3/8"~1/2" rebar at 18" on center if you don't want it to shatter. It has to be tied and on saddles before they pour. The little concrete blocks with wires on top work well too, and they're cheap. Don't let them B.S. you that they can "pull" the wire mesh up into the middle of the slab-they can't.
The most important thing is to compact the he** out of the dirt before the pour. You need at least 95% compaction. Damp dirt compacts the best, so if you're bringing in fill or digging up what you got, damp it down a little before you put it in. If the dirt has been undisturbed for ten years or so, it should be at a good compaction already so leave it alone.
I would also put trowel lines in the concrete, probably 4' on center, to control where it cracks. I put in 2X4s in our driveway at 8' on center to create smaller separate slabs. Much easier than one big slab IMO.
It is rare to see a continuous pour around here. Most drives of any length, mine is 100' long, are poured with individual slabs separated by expansion boards. I was planning on two 10X10 slabs which matches up with the driveway's 10' width.
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Old 09-23-2014, 12:41 PM   #1914
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Which park are you staying at on the lake? Been wanting to go but OK's non-existent reservation policy makes me nervous about going only to be told no more spots when we get there late on a Friday...
RZ, we almost always stay at Elephant Rock Campground on the west side of the lake. When we planned our first trip here 8-9 years ago, the lack of capability to reserve sites put us off, too. I called the park office and whined about that since it is an 80 mile pull for us. Camp employees told us the park is convenient to DFW Metroplex campers and that campers make the drive here for the weekend. They told us to come on Monday or Tuesday when those DFW area people go home. We've been coming on Monday afternoon since then. We DO see an influx of campers coming in on Thursday, Friday and Saturday but I have never seen Elephant Rock Campground completely full. Of course, we come in April and September every year when school is in session and many campers are staying home. We always stay in full hookup sites and not many camps on Lake Murray have full hookups. However, there are several camps in the park w/ electricity and water. They seem to have available sites even on weekends. I should point out that most sites next to water cost $5 per night extra - they are designated as Premium Sites.
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:06 PM   #1915
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RZ, we almost always stay at Elephant Rock Campground on the west side of the lake. When we planned our first trip here 8-9 years ago, the lack of capability to reserve sites put us off, too. I called the park office and whined about that since it is an 80 mile pull for us. Camp employees told us the park is convenient to DFW Metroplex campers and that campers make the drive here for the weekend. They told us to come on Monday or Tuesday when those DFW area people go home. We've been coming on Monday afternoon since then. We DO see an influx of campers coming in on Thursday, Friday and Saturday but I have never seen Elephant Rock Campground completely full. Of course, we come in April and September every year when school is in session and many campers are staying home. We always stay in full hookup sites and not many camps on Lake Murray have full hookups. However, there are several camps in the park w/ electricity and water. They seem to have available sites even on weekends. I should point out that most sites next to water cost $5 per night extra - they are designated as Premium Sites.
We are part of the DFW crowd
Wish we could come on a Monday or Tuesday but I still have 20 years til I have the ability to do that at will. In the past when we have stayed over on a Monday at various parks it is amazing at what a ghost town they become!
Right now I can't wait for the weekends to go camping, I am thinking in 20 years I will be dreading the weekends as our quiet park gets over run with weekend warriors! LOL.

Have you been to that park around thanksgiving? Looking for a park then, we usually do 4 or 5 nights.
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Old 09-23-2014, 07:39 PM   #1916
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I cleaned old grease off the hitch and pin box. Also changed out the empty propane for our next trip in October after CDN Thanksgiving. DW did the Interior cleaning and laundry. Tomorrow it heads back to storage lot for a few weeks.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:19 PM   #1917
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We are part of the DFW crowd
....
Have you been to that park [Lake Murray] around thanksgiving? Looking for a park then, we usually do 4 or 5 nights.
No, we have not. We usually make 1 camping trip in November - but usually before Thanksgiving. Sometimes we use the Big Mineral Campground, a private park near Gordonville, Texas - northeast of Whitesboro. They don't have silly season closures rules as do the COE parks on Texoma which will close for the winter AT THE END OF SEPTEMBER. We've also used Cedar Mills in the same area.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:49 PM   #1918
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Got the rig ready for our trip Thursday. Found out my battery isn't charging. Nice surprise. Went and bought another battery and will bring my charger.
Has anyone ever left the charger on the battery while it was running the trailer ? I have a smart charger that won't over charge and has a slow 5amp charge cycle.


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Old 09-23-2014, 08:49 PM   #1919
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No, we have not. We usually make 1 camping trip in November - but usually before Thanksgiving. Sometimes we use the Big Mineral Campground, a private park near Gordonville, Texas - northeast of Whitesboro. They don't have silly season closures rules as do the COE parks on Texoma which will close for the winter AT THE END OF SEPTEMBER. We've also used Cedar Mills in the same area.
Indeed, we stay at juniper point (West) a lot and we think the fact that they turn off the water is ridonkulous! They just put in freeze proof spigots too! How is Big Mineral? Have seen that on the map.
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:50 PM   #1920
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Do you know what that cost would be to lay down asphalt with a good gravel base rather than concrete?
Had my driveway removed and re-done last year. It's about 16 ft wide at the entrance, 2-car garage wide at the garage, plus another car's width to the side at the garage. Driveway is about 60 ft long, with the extra car section being 20 ft long, then a 20 ft taper to the normal part of the driveway. The section to the side didn't exist originally, so the extra section needed additional work in terms of leveling and putting down gravel. Total was about $4K.
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