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Old 04-06-2016, 04:40 PM   #7121
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Go to Lowes/HD and get an octagon box cover and pop rivet it to the door and then drill the cover to accept the strut anchor and bolt/screw to it. I used alum. plate, but the OB covers will work.
OC, I thought I was a master fabricator and doodad maker, but you always make me think (and spend money). Thanks for all your ideas.
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:41 PM   #7122
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Below is a photo of the motor and drive gear for the wardrobe slide in the bedroom. The chain drive sprocket on the gearbox is 1/2" lower than the tension ends of the chain, is this the way it should be? The motor and gearbox assembly are a good 1 1/2" out of square with the roof of the slide. Should I remount the assembly so the chains run true with the sprocket drive of the gearbox. Is this a failure waiting to happen or is this a case of if it's not broke don't mess with it.

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Old 04-06-2016, 05:32 PM   #7123
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OC, I thought I was a master fabricator and doodad maker, but you always make me think (and spend money). Thanks for all your ideas.
Sorry about making you spend money, but the covers are pretty cheap.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:37 PM   #7124
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:39 PM   #7125
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:41 PM   #7126
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If I can do it, anyone can...this mod was done in campground in Quartzsite, Ar.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:09 PM   #7127
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If I can do it, anyone can...this mod was done in campground in Quartzsite, Ar.
Are y'all riveting the reinforcing plate to just the inner skin of the door? Is that skin strong enough to stand up overtime?
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:14 PM   #7128
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If I remember, I used 1/8"dia/1/4" grip....no problems have showed up with 'em trying to loosen up...
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:27 PM   #7129
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Are y'all riveting the reinforcing plate to just the inner skin of the door? Is that skin strong enough to stand up overtime?
Mine have been on since 12Apr12 and show no signs of loosening.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:22 PM   #7130
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Are y'all riveting the reinforcing plate to just the inner skin of the door? Is that skin strong enough to stand up overtime?
The screws from the gas struts were only ever in the inner skin most likely. Could not be any worse than just two screws holding it together. Now there is 10!
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:30 PM   #7131
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If ya turned the door around so it opens down like Old Coot says, you would have this problem.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:36 PM   #7132
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That's only for small plastic type compartments the switches fit in...
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:38 PM   #7133
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:54 PM   #7134
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That's only for small plastic type compartments the switches fit in...
You are correct Bob! Only for the small plastic switch compartments.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:55 PM   #7135
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:05 PM   #7136
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:10 PM   #7137
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Are y'all riveting the reinforcing plate to just the inner skin of the door? Is that skin strong enough to stand up overtime?
I use an adhesive on the plate then screw or rivet it to the interior skin. Never had a problem. I've seen some manufacturers at the R/V shows are doing this now at the factories.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:29 PM   #7138
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For those thinking of getting Blue Streak you can get it from Rvupgrades.com for $50.00 with free shipping. I have bought other things from them and they have great customer service. They drop ship everything.


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Old 04-06-2016, 10:43 PM   #7139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Go to Lowes/HD and get an octagon box cover and pop rivet it to the door and then drill the cover to accept the strut anchor and bolt/screw to it. I used alum. plate, but the OB covers will work.

Thanks OldCoot! Now to find out what an "octagon box cover" is...

Though, I will say that the door is way easier to open and close with only 1 strut.
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:51 PM   #7140
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Thanks OldCoot! Now to find out what an "octagon box cover" is...

Though, I will say that the door is way easier to open and close with only 1 strut.
You know. Octagon Box Cover.
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