What did you do to your camper today?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by offroad

Had some questions about the awning poles I put on my slide, so here's a bit more detail.

The brackets are from OC of course, and the poles are painting poles from HD. The poles are a fiberglass outer and a hexagon aluminum inner with a push button locking mechanism. The poles come with adjustment holes every 6", so I added more holes to give adjustments every 1.5". Since the inner pole has flat sides this is easy to do, as you only need to center the additional holes left to right and only drill one side.

Looks good, you did a nice job.

[offroad]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Looks good, you did a nice job.

Thank you sir, and thanks for the brackets.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Sierra360PDEK

Added 72' of red led rope lights under the fiver. It looks really awesome at night especially with the red led nose lights that came installed on her. Also installed white rope lights under the toe kick on the kitchen island and another outlet. Next will be redoing the bathroom medicine cabinet. Will shave off one inch from the depth and mount it into the wall so we can better access the sink.

Is this an interior wall or exterior?

Removing the exterior wall foam insulation behind the cabinet to recess it could cause structural issues due to:

1) A place for moisture from the bathroom to access the exterior siding causing delamination

2) If you find an aluminum stud back there and cut it, there could be severe structural damage as all the studs and cross members are required to maintain rigidity in the wall structure. Reducing that rigidity could cause structural cracks at planned penetrations like slides and windows, since the "unpenetrated" wall sections are the "glue" that supports the rest.

3) Removing foam to create the depth will reduce the R factor behind the cabinet to zero causing your meds and bathroom articles to freeze in cold weather and overheat in warm.

Just would not take the risk. Might be better to buy a different style medicine cabinet (or remove it completely and just glue a flat mirror there).

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Is this an interior wall or exterior?

Removing the exterior wall foam insulation behind the cabinet to recess it could cause structural issues due to:

1) A place for moisture from the bathroom to access the exterior siding causing delamination

2) If you find an aluminum stud back there and cut it, there could be severe structural damage as all the studs and cross members are required to maintain rigidity in the wall structure. Reducing that rigidity could cause structural cracks at planned penetrations like slides and windows, since the "unpenetrated" wall sections are the "glue" that supports the rest.

3) Removing foam to create the depth will reduce the R factor behind the cabinet to zero causing your meds and bathroom articles to freeze in cold weather and overheat in warm.

Just would not take the risk. Might be better to buy a different style medicine cabinet (or remove it completely and just glue a flat mirror there).

I think he is talking about cutting the medicine cabinet down and just remounting it.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I think he is talking about cutting the medicine cabinet down and just remounting it.

I thought it was both- cutting down the medicine cabinet, but then also recessing it into the wall to recess it:

Will shave off one inch from the depth and mount it into the wall so we can better access the sink.

[Mountndream]

took a 3 day weekend with our trailer this weekend.

I straightened the alignment of my Stairs so right side would make contact and not give way. I also put the wood guards back around the water pump.

Would there be any issues adding some insulation around the pump... its pretty loud

[TURBS]

Btw oc I did most of the work while ms amy took pictures and drank cold ones.


TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by TURBS

Btw oc I did most of the work while ms amy took pictures and drank cold ones.
TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded, 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "2 nights"

That is definitely a switch. Usually it's the other way around!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Mountndream

Would there be any issues adding some insulation around the pump... its pretty loud

Most pump noise comes from the pex vibration when the pump is running.

Isolating the pump from the pex with very flexible hose and rubber "feet" under the pump will remove a significant amount of noise.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by wicked1

This year I blew out the lines and sucked up 2-3 gallons of AF in the entire system but the AF in the toilet sort of froze a little bit for all the cold weather we had in NJ. This year with the new Roo 2015 I am thinking of blowing all lines putting AF in the drains and tanks and leaving all the faucets open but not putting AF in the lines, does anyone do this?


2014 Ford F-150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB 3.5

2015 Roo 23IKSS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Don't worry about the AF freezing or getting a little slushy. It won't expand like water does. There was a thread about it here.

[Iwritecode]

This weekend I pulled my radio out to try and figure out why I wasn't getting an radio stations to come in. Found out that the antenna wasn't plugged in.

Found both ends right next to each other, plugged them in and had music!

[wicked1]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Most pump noise comes from the pex vibration when the pump is running.



Isolating the pump from the pex with very flexible hose and rubber "feet" under the pump will remove a significant amount of noise.

Do the accumulation tanks work well never knew why folks installed them in RV's if you are connected to public H2O


2014 Ford F-150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB 3.5
2015 Roo 23IKSS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Crabbyguy]

Got it stuck in the mud. Then it rained like hell this morning. I'm not even gonna try to move it until this ground hardens a little. At least it's where I need it, sorta.

[Orion]

Replaced 2 year old trail express lr C tires with about 4,000 miles for Marathon lr D tires. Replaced Tundra Michelin lr C with Cooper lr D tires...


Sent from my iPad 7 using Forest River Forums

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by wicked1

Do the accumulation tanks work well never knew why folks installed them in RV's if you are connected to public H2O


2014 Ford F-150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB 3.5
2015 Roo 23IKSS

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

We always keep about 1/4 to 2/3 tank of fresh water in the fresh water tank.


1- Good to have while traveling for "pit stops" along the way so you can flush the toilet.

2- We have had many an experience in parks that provide well water and had power failures or other water issues and guess what......no well pump, no water!!

And yes, the pump does work well. Although the pressure may "surge" its been better than the regular pressure in some parks!

EDIT: My mistake. Read the OP's post too fast and thought he was referring to the fresh water tank.

[Lloydg]

Originally Posted by Orion

Replaced 2 year old trail express lr C tires with about 4,000 miles for Marathon lr D tires. Replaced Tundra Michelin lr C with Cooper lr D tires...


Sent from my iPad 7 using Forest River Forums

Orion; I'm having Marathons installed in place of the factory Power Touring tires tomorrow. Did you keep the old tires with the idea that you might sell them or just let the dealer take them? I'm sort of on the fence.

[mlangdn]

Setup the WDH on my new to me F250. I watched youtube videos for a couple of months till my eyes bled, then pronounced myself ready. I had to drop the ball one hole since the F250 is a bit higher than the F150. I measured front and rear, before and after. I only dropped 1/2" in the rear and rose 1/4" in the front. Looks good in the driveway!

[itat]

Originally Posted by wicked1

Do the accumulation tanks work well never knew why folks installed them in RV's if you are connected to public H2O

wicked1, the accumulator is only of any value when not hooked up to city water - that is, when you're using the water pump and the fresh water tank. It stores a supply of water at pressure so the pump turns on less often. And its only for the cold water side.

If you're always hooked up to city water, you won't benefit from an accumulator but if you boondock or at least camp without a city water hookup it may be something you want.

[Orion]

Originally Posted by Lloydg

Orion; I'm having Marathons installed in place of the factory Power Touring tires tomorrow. Did you keep the old tires with the idea that you might sell them or just let the dealer take them? I'm sort of on the fence.

I let them deal with them. I don't want to be anywhere around them.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by itat

wicked1, the accumulator is only of any value when not hooked up to city water - that is, when you're using the water pump and the fresh water tank. It stores a supply of water at pressure so the pump turns on less often. And its only for the cold water side.

If you're always hooked up to city water, you won't benefit from an accumulator but if you boondock or at least camp without a city water hookup it may be something you want.

X2 - and IMO, you get more bang for your buck by replacing your stock pump with a high performance one. Like several have said, there are times when park water either goes off-line (well pump breaks) or is so heavily used that you have little to no water pressure. This is where a 1/2 tank of water and a High Performance pump are worth their weight in gold

Some pumps are expensive (like $200 expensive! ) Here is a good one that will not break the bank but still give you 55PSI water flow:
http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-4008-1..._ob_title_auto