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05-27-2015, 01:21 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 13
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What's first jacks or slide?
So I've been struggling with this the past few trips. I think I know the best answer but I want your opinion. I have a 31z forest river which has the dinette and bunk house slide on the driver side. I used to think it was best to park the TT and put down all 4 jacks before rolling out the slides.
What I have found is once the slides are out the trailer "leans" to the driver side and the passenger jacks have little to no weight on them. So I question my procedure.
Should I put down the drivers side jacks first, then roll out the slides, then follow up with running the passenger jacks down?
How do you setup?
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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05-27-2015, 01:32 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 138
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I don't think the order matters a lot as long as the trailer is sufficienly level to be comfortable. Personally I have always put the jacks down first, then operate slide, then adjust the jacks as needed to keep TT level.
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2014 Ford F-150
2015 Apex Nano 193BHS
2018 Nights Camped: 7
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05-27-2015, 11:34 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,219
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What's first jacks or slide?
We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
2010 F250 4X4 5.4L 3.73 LS
EQUALIZER E4 1200/12000
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05-27-2015, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Williston ND
Posts: 353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet
We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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We also level 3/4 to an inch high on slide side but jacks go down before slides come out.
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Dennis and Julie
2018 Wildcat 28SGX
2013 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2012 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
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05-28-2015, 01:20 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 869
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While I don't have that problem with my class A, I'd be concerned with balance if you know that there's very little weight on the jacks opposite the slide. This situation is a golden opportunity for the unit to tip over if a gust of wind hits it from the "wrong" side.
My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.
Phil
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05-28-2015, 01:22 PM
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#6
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ARLO
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: N Chili, NY
Posts: 910
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I just get things close and move the stick on levels. My wife has never caught on.
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05-28-2015, 01:38 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 45
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My theory is slideout first then stabilizers. And don't think it's a good idea to put something under the slide to hold it up - things could bend if trailer sinks at all
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05-28-2015, 01:39 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsherman
My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.
Phil
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Personally, I would never advise this procedure to anyone unless your manual specifically says to do it. If you brace your slide and the unit starts rocking side-to-side, because of wind or what not, or you get a flat tire on that side, your camper will move but your slide will not move with it. That could potentially cause a more serious problem than weather or not you're perfectly level. Better to leave that slide alone, in my opinion.
2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Tundra 5.7 CrewMax
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2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L
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05-28-2015, 02:18 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 13
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Which comes first.....?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KDHfan
Personally, I would never advise this procedure to anyone unless your manual specifically says to do it. If you brace your slide and the unit starts rocking side-to-side, because of wind or what not, or you get a flat tire on that side, your camper will move but your slide will not move with it. That could potentially cause a more serious problem than weather or not you're perfectly level. Better to leave that slide alone, in my opinion.
2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Tundra 5.7 CrewMax
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We have a 2014 Puma with the dining room table and hideaway couch on one slide. We always had a problem with the slider, felt as though it were settling. I made several calls to Forest River before I was lucky enough to speak with an engineer there. When I posed the question to him, he said always level the trailer with the slider in first. He said using those 4"x 16"x 16" concrete blocks would alleviate settling. Once we got the trailer level, bow to stern and side to side, then move the slider out. We use the slider jack stands that screw up or down. And we put them on top of the same concrete blocks.
We are full timers now, and the trailer sits on a concrete pad poured over red clay. At the ends, we run two ratchet straps over the top of the trailer to prevent the wind from rocking it. We also have four steel bands on the ends fastened to the frame via anchor lags. We don't have the rocking and rolling any more, but before we poured the pad, doing what the engineer suggested solved the majority of the problem.
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Moved from a 2,000 SF home into a 2014 Puma, about 260 SF. On two acres. We brought in power, water, and installed septic system. We've been here a year now, my wife, myself, and an 80lb female Weim named Daisy. We can barely see our nearest neighbor, one of two.
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05-28-2015, 02:30 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbCik
I don't think the order matters a lot as long as the trailer is sufficienly level to be comfortable. Personally I have always put the jacks down first, then operate slide, then adjust the jacks as needed to keep TT level.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet
We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.
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I do these exact same things, I level slightly high on the slide side, run my jacks down, run my slide out, then re-adjust any jacks. This has been working well for me.
I also check the jacks after a day or so, sometimes I have to snug em back up because of settling and shifting depending on where we are camping (it has been wet and rainy non stop for weeks).
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2018 XLR Nitro 36T15
2015 GMC 3500 6.6/Allison
Nights Camped (2018-16) (2017-16) (2016-13) (2015-13)
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05-28-2015, 02:38 PM
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#11
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirwriter
...We are full timers now, and the trailer sits on a concrete pad poured over red clay. At the ends, we run two ratchet straps over the top of the trailer to prevent the wind from rocking it. We also have four steel bands on the ends fastened to the frame via anchor lags. We don't have the rocking and rolling any more, but before we poured the pad, doing what the engineer suggested solved the majority of the problem.
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You have a completely different situation with it sitting on concrete, but I would still not put jacks under the slide unless your jacks can and do support the trailer. If you have a flat tire, the jacks MUST keep the trailer from dropping, otherwise, the trailer will drop and the slide will not and damage the trailer. JMO.
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05-28-2015, 03:22 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: West Jordan, UT
Posts: 877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsherman
While I don't have that problem with my class A, I'd be concerned with balance if you know that there's very little weight on the jacks opposite the slide. This situation is a golden opportunity for the unit to tip over if a gust of wind hits it from the "wrong" side.
My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.
Phil
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I would never put a support under the slide! If you talk to FR they will advise you not to, and I was told if you do and damage occurs it will not be covered. My dealer sells slide supports but when asked he advised against them too. Even a search of the forum shows most people think it is a bad idea, I am not one to just follow the crowd but a sanity check tells me it isnt a good idea and why even consider it.The only time I would think it was acceptable is if you had the frame blocked in a permanent situation then it might be ok. But why? The TT was designed to support itself.
As for tipping over I am wondering what actual conditions would have to exist for that to happen? 60+ MPH winds on an un-stabilized TT, I do not even know if that would do it????? Seems like bad advice to me and after thinking about it, I cannot fathom a feasible situation where it would be blown over other than a hurricane or tornado, which you have a bigger problem anyway and a slide support would not help in any case.
What is your logic or experience in making that statement pmsherman? Am I thinking wrongly?
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2018 XLR Nitro 36T15
2015 GMC 3500 6.6/Allison
Nights Camped (2018-16) (2017-16) (2016-13) (2015-13)
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05-28-2015, 03:28 PM
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#13
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Somewhat right of center
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 264
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I always do all the jacks first.
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2014 Crusader 260RLD Champagne Touring Edition
2013 Silverado 2500 6.0 HD
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05-28-2015, 04:47 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 110
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By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?
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05-28-2015, 04:55 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Moundsville Wv
Posts: 1,504
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We set ours right on the floor where you open the door
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2003 Duramax
2010 Blue Ridge
1 DW
1 mutt
on occasion 1 DD
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05-28-2015, 05:31 PM
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#16
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrmartin67
By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?
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Leveled the floor and then adjusted the big level on the front and never used the level on the floor or anything else again. Also leveled front to back and likewise adjusted the big level on the front. Nothing is that critical as to having to have the trailer perfectly level in all directions and spending an excess amount of time getting that last 1/8" on a 2' level. JMO
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05-28-2015, 05:57 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Santa Teresa, NM
Posts: 26
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I use the Andersen 3604 Camper Levelers( https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...r-leveler.aspx ). Once set up properly, they work like a charm. Don’t pay attention to their method of leveling. You’ll need a level for use inside the trailer, a trailer level indicator to mount on the front of the trailer that you can easily see in your truck’s rear view mirror, and a good assistant.
First, disconnect the weight distribution bars then extend your slides. I level my Flagstaff V-Lite by the stove top. Place the level on the stove top to level side to side and determine which side needs to be raised. Place the Andersen levelers under the wheels of the side to be raised. With your assistant in the trailer and you on cell phones, begin pulling the trailer up onto the levelers. Stop when your assistant tells you it’s level. Set parking brake and put truck in Park, and chock the levelers.
Pull in the slides, extend the stabilizers, and extend the slides again. Recheck the level and door swings. If no adjustments need to be made pull in the slides and retract the stabilizers.
Now attach the trailer level indicator (I use the Digital Level Lite so I can see it at night) so that it indicates the trailer is level. Unhitch the trailer and level it front to rear.
Extend stabilizers, then the slides, and you should be pretty darn level.
Now the next time you pull into an RV Park, disconnect the WD bars, look at the level you mounted to determine which side needs to be raised, place the Andersen levelers under the side that needs raising, and pull the trailer as far as needed until level is indicated. Drop stabilizers and extend slides.
All for $100.00 mas o menos.
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2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30 WRLS
2007 F250 SD
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05-28-2015, 06:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 316
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Jacks first, then slides.
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Marcel & Jenne
Kemptville, ON
2014 Rockwood 8282WS
2015 Ford F150 Eco-Boost
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05-28-2015, 06:12 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 746
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Jacks down first! Changed over to 6x8 Pressure treated blocks, 16 inches long. Less weight and since have stapled a short piece of yellow rope in a loop to each block. Loop is long enough to prevent having to get under TV when breaking camp. Carry 6 blocks in case I need the extra height on one end of trailer. Two more blocks for tongue jack.
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2020 Georgetown 31L, Safe T steering, Sumo springs, Onan Geny
2015 GMC Canyon 4X4 TOAD w/Blue Ox tow plates, InvisiBrake
Pepper 🌶 PomChi rescue 545 nights as our camping buddy
Days camped in FR 2011-12 = 77, 13-14 = 98, 15-16 = 129
17 = 81, 18 = 44, 19 = 83, 20= 45, 21 = 76, 22 = 57, 23 = 42
Retired :
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05-28-2015, 06:13 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,255
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Jacks with 1/4" rise on the slide side, slide, then jacks again. I use external permanently mounted levels. I like to be able to see how much is needed where and by how much at a single glance.
The 1/4" is just MY rig though. Yours WILL vary. It's just what I've found that works for my rigs weight, slide, chocks, and jack config. After I've been trouncing around inside for awhile ground settling puts me about dead level.
Another vote on DO NOT PUT A JACK under your slide! If the winds are so bad that you're concerned about tipping over (hehehe.. ) you're better off to just turtle up.
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