What's first jacks or slide?

[chugger22]

So I've been struggling with this the past few trips. I think I know the best answer but I want your opinion. I have a 31z forest river which has the dinette and bunk house slide on the driver side. I used to think it was best to park the TT and put down all 4 jacks before rolling out the slides.

What I have found is once the slides are out the trailer "leans" to the driver side and the passenger jacks have little to no weight on them. So I question my procedure.
Should I put down the drivers side jacks first, then roll out the slides, then follow up with running the passenger jacks down?
How do you setup?




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[mbCik]

I don't think the order matters a lot as long as the trailer is sufficienly level to be comfortable. Personally I have always put the jacks down first, then operate slide, then adjust the jacks as needed to keep TT level.

[lbrjet]

We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[Dennis and Julie]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

We also level 3/4 to an inch high on slide side but jacks go down before slides come out.

[pmsherman]

While I don't have that problem with my class A, I'd be concerned with balance if you know that there's very little weight on the jacks opposite the slide. This situation is a golden opportunity for the unit to tip over if a gust of wind hits it from the "wrong" side.

My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.

Phil

[rlocicero]

I just get things close and move the stick on levels. My wife has never caught on.

[pfeather1]

My theory is slideout first then stabilizers. And don't think it's a good idea to put something under the slide to hold it up - things could bend if trailer sinks at all

[KDHfan]

Originally Posted by pmsherman

My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.

Phil

Personally, I would never advise this procedure to anyone unless your manual specifically says to do it. If you brace your slide and the unit starts rocking side-to-side, because of wind or what not, or you get a flat tire on that side, your camper will move but your slide will not move with it. That could potentially cause a more serious problem than weather or not you're perfectly level. Better to leave that slide alone, in my opinion.


2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Tundra 5.7 CrewMax

[Sirwriter]

Originally Posted by KDHfan

Personally, I would never advise this procedure to anyone unless your manual specifically says to do it. If you brace your slide and the unit starts rocking side-to-side, because of wind or what not, or you get a flat tire on that side, your camper will move but your slide will not move with it. That could potentially cause a more serious problem than weather or not you're perfectly level. Better to leave that slide alone, in my opinion.


2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Tundra 5.7 CrewMax

We have a 2014 Puma with the dining room table and hideaway couch on one slide. We always had a problem with the slider, felt as though it were settling. I made several calls to Forest River before I was lucky enough to speak with an engineer there. When I posed the question to him, he said always level the trailer with the slider in first. He said using those 4"x 16"x 16" concrete blocks would alleviate settling. Once we got the trailer level, bow to stern and side to side, then move the slider out. We use the slider jack stands that screw up or down. And we put them on top of the same concrete blocks.

We are full timers now, and the trailer sits on a concrete pad poured over red clay. At the ends, we run two ratchet straps over the top of the trailer to prevent the wind from rocking it. We also have four steel bands on the ends fastened to the frame via anchor lags. We don't have the rocking and rolling any more, but before we poured the pad, doing what the engineer suggested solved the majority of the problem.

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by mbCik

I don't think the order matters a lot as long as the trailer is sufficienly level to be comfortable. Personally I have always put the jacks down first, then operate slide, then adjust the jacks as needed to keep TT level.

Originally Posted by lbrjet

We have a double slide also. We level to about 3/4 inch high on the slide side. Let the slides out and then put the stabilizers down.

I do these exact same things, I level slightly high on the slide side, run my jacks down, run my slide out, then re-adjust any jacks. This has been working well for me.

I also check the jacks after a day or so, sometimes I have to snug em back up because of settling and shifting depending on where we are camping (it has been wet and rainy non stop for weeks).

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Sirwriter

...We are full timers now, and the trailer sits on a concrete pad poured over red clay. At the ends, we run two ratchet straps over the top of the trailer to prevent the wind from rocking it. We also have four steel bands on the ends fastened to the frame via anchor lags. We don't have the rocking and rolling any more, but before we poured the pad, doing what the engineer suggested solved the majority of the problem.

You have a completely different situation with it sitting on concrete, but I would still not put jacks under the slide unless your jacks can and do support the trailer. If you have a flat tire, the jacks MUST keep the trailer from dropping, otherwise, the trailer will drop and the slide will not and damage the trailer. JMO.

[SuicideSaints]

Originally Posted by pmsherman

While I don't have that problem with my class A, I'd be concerned with balance if you know that there's very little weight on the jacks opposite the slide. This situation is a golden opportunity for the unit to tip over if a gust of wind hits it from the "wrong" side.

My recommendation is that you get a supplemental hand jack that can be placed under the outer wall of a slide. Install this jack after the slide is extended and add a reminder to your "prepare to leave" checklist to remove it before pulling in the slide. You might need a board under the slide to distribute the support point force across a larger area than the top of the jack.

Phil

I would never put a support under the slide! If you talk to FR they will advise you not to, and I was told if you do and damage occurs it will not be covered. My dealer sells slide supports but when asked he advised against them too. Even a search of the forum shows most people think it is a bad idea, I am not one to just follow the crowd but a sanity check tells me it isnt a good idea and why even consider it.The only time I would think it was acceptable is if you had the frame blocked in a permanent situation then it might be ok. But why? The TT was designed to support itself.

As for tipping over I am wondering what actual conditions would have to exist for that to happen? 60+ MPH winds on an un-stabilized TT, I do not even know if that would do it????? Seems like bad advice to me and after thinking about it, I cannot fathom a feasible situation where it would be blown over other than a hurricane or tornado, which you have a bigger problem anyway and a slide support would not help in any case.

What is your logic or experience in making that statement pmsherman? Am I thinking wrongly?

[Crabbyguy]

I always do all the jacks first.

[jrmartin67]

By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?

[themounties]

We set ours right on the floor where you open the door

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by jrmartin67

By the way, do you guys set your levels on the floor or counter top, bumper, what? to call "level"?

Leveled the floor and then adjusted the big level on the front and never used the level on the floor or anything else again. Also leveled front to back and likewise adjusted the big level on the front. Nothing is that critical as to having to have the trailer perfectly level in all directions and spending an excess amount of time getting that last 1/8" on a 2' level. JMO

[chasbo70]

I use the Andersen 3604 Camper Levelers( https://www.andersenhitches.com/Prod...r-leveler.aspx ). Once set up properly, they work like a charm. Don’t pay attention to their method of leveling. You’ll need a level for use inside the trailer, a trailer level indicator to mount on the front of the trailer that you can easily see in your truck’s rear view mirror, and a good assistant.

First, disconnect the weight distribution bars then extend your slides. I level my Flagstaff V-Lite by the stove top. Place the level on the stove top to level side to side and determine which side needs to be raised. Place the Andersen levelers under the wheels of the side to be raised. With your assistant in the trailer and you on cell phones, begin pulling the trailer up onto the levelers. Stop when your assistant tells you it’s level. Set parking brake and put truck in Park, and chock the levelers.
Pull in the slides, extend the stabilizers, and extend the slides again. Recheck the level and door swings. If no adjustments need to be made pull in the slides and retract the stabilizers.
Now attach the trailer level indicator (I use the Digital Level Lite so I can see it at night) so that it indicates the trailer is level. Unhitch the trailer and level it front to rear.
Extend stabilizers, then the slides, and you should be pretty darn level.
Now the next time you pull into an RV Park, disconnect the WD bars, look at the level you mounted to determine which side needs to be raised, place the Andersen levelers under the side that needs raising, and pull the trailer as far as needed until level is indicated. Drop stabilizers and extend slides.
All for $100.00 mas o menos.

[BusyRetirees]

Jacks first, then slides.

[satdog01]

Jacks down first! Changed over to 6x8 Pressure treated blocks, 16 inches long. Less weight and since have stapled a short piece of yellow rope in a loop to each block. Loop is long enough to prevent having to get under TV when breaking camp. Carry 6 blocks in case I need the extra height on one end of trailer. Two more blocks for tongue jack.

[rana]

Jacks with 1/4" rise on the slide side, slide, then jacks again. I use external permanently mounted levels. I like to be able to see how much is needed where and by how much at a single glance.

The 1/4" is just MY rig though. Yours WILL vary. It's just what I've found that works for my rigs weight, slide, chocks, and jack config. After I've been trouncing around inside for awhile ground settling puts me about dead level.

Another vote on DO NOT PUT A JACK under your slide! If the winds are so bad that you're concerned about tipping over (hehehe.. ) you're better off to just turtle up.