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Old 06-19-2021, 01:33 PM   #21
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to the Forum from Alaska!
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Solar Power & Battle Born batteries
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Old 06-19-2021, 02:11 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
At 10 years you are right in expecting to spend some money. Tires and Brakes are often the most expensive so at least for now that's out of the way.

A dealer inspection is a good idea although I'd consider an independent RV repair shop or Mobile Service to perform the inspection. Even get a couple of competitive estimates if possible.

Dealer's tend to be profit driven and often aren't exactly candid on what you really need. A good example is my visit to the Dealer to get my truck serviced. They performed a "complete inspection" of suspension and drivetrain. Got a well prepared picture presentation of all the problems they found. Front Brakes was legit. Also found a leaking transfer case output shaft seal. So far so good. However, they told me "the front driveshaft U-Joint Seal was leaking". Proof was it was covered by oil (which was from the leaking output shaft seal about 6" ahead of it). They told me that the U-Joint was non-servicable. Price of driveshaft------$1085. Chances are the oil leaking from the output shafe seal was just an excuse to sell a new Driveline.

{for the mechanics here, the shaft uses regular Spice U-Joints that have the "cir-clips" secured by an epoxy. Non-Serviceable to the un-trained perhaps but the Driveline Service said they handle them on a daily basis}

Called the local driveline service and price for an "Overhaul" (front and rear U-joint replacement) including balance, $~$280.

Be sure to get competitive estimates.

Very good advice, thanks!
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Old 06-19-2021, 02:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike View Post
At 10 years you are right in expecting to spend some money. Tires and Brakes are often the most expensive so at least for now that's out of the way.

A dealer inspection is a good idea although I'd consider an independent RV repair shop or Mobile Service to perform the inspection. Even get a couple of competitive estimates if possible.

Dealer's tend to be profit driven and often aren't exactly candid on what you really need. A good example is my visit to the Dealer to get my truck serviced. They performed a "complete inspection" of suspension and drivetrain. Got a well prepared picture presentation of all the problems they found. Front Brakes was legit. Also found a leaking transfer case output shaft seal. So far so good. However, they told me "the front driveshaft U-Joint Seal was leaking". Proof was it was covered by oil (which was from the leaking output shaft seal about 6" ahead of it). They told me that the U-Joint was non-servicable. Price of driveshaft------$1085. Chances are the oil leaking from the output shafe seal was just an excuse to sell a new Driveline.

{for the mechanics here, the shaft uses regular Spice U-Joints that have the "cir-clips" secured by an epoxy. Non-Serviceable to the un-trained perhaps but the Driveline Service said they handle them on a daily basis}

Called the local driveline service and price for an "Overhaul" (front and rear U-joint replacement) including balance, $~$280.

Be sure to get competitive estimates.
I wholeheartedly agree with Mike about using an independent RV shop to do the inspection.

My next suggestion is to fill out your signature so every time you post the readers will know what equipment you have.

to do that go to the top of the page in the thin green bar you will see "User CP".

Click on that and scroll down the very left margin til you see the section "Settings and Options".

"Edit Signature" is the second choice down.

Only one more, try and break up your long posts. It makes them MUCH easier to read. Imagine my first post to you if I did not beak it up.

Im sure we will be hearing from you a lot, and that is not a bad thing! We are all here because we enjoy a common activity and also enjoy helping others.

Soon enough you will be on the giving end!
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Old 06-19-2021, 03:31 PM   #24
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Batteries are the weak link!

Your battery is likely a boat battery.

You will have 20-50 available amps. If you turn the furnace on you will get a surprise about 2 am. Dead battery. Modern rv’s use a lot of power.

Two gc2 six volt batteries from Costco or Sams club will give you 100 amps of power available. However, they double the current batteries weight. $200

One lithium for $500 to $1000 will give you 100 amps. Will weigh 1/3 of your present battery. Might need a new converter.

100 amps will get you thru a weekend of no shore power. The only way you can recharge the battery is to plug in. Not your little inverter. It might power the tv.

You cannot just add a second battery to the one you have. Bad practice. The weakest one will drain the new one.

A 2000 watt inverter generator is a good idea.

Trailers from the 60’s went forever on a battery as they were only used for a few lights. Not smoke alarms, co monitors, tv and radio presets. Refrigerators. Water heaters. Cell phones etc. water pumps.

Have a camp out in the driveway. You will learn a lot.

Learn to use a voltmeter. Battery issues.

Got to be handy!
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