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Old 03-21-2018, 05:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyGuy View Post
wow I really appreciate everyone's advice! I decided to go with the
Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Controller. From what I've read in reviews and seen on the many videos surrounding this device I pulled the trigger and ordered it and will be receiving it on Friday. My tow vehicle is a 2006 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS Extended Sport Utility 4x4 4D. I also purchased a Reese 49902 Complete Round Bar Weight Distribution Kit - 750 lbs. TW for hauling my new travel trailer! Hope I did good choosing these components, thoughts, opinions, personal experiences with them are most welcome!
Seems like a lot of trailer for that trailblazer... have you done the math on th weight?
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:50 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by KyleStout View Post
Seems like a lot of trailer for that trailblazer... have you done the math on th weight?
Yep
I agree that that trailer is at or over the the TV's max numbers.
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:04 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleStout View Post
Seems like a lot of trailer for that trailblazer... have you done the math on th weight?
I originally thought so too but doing some research this is the information I came up with.

Looking up the total weight of the 2002 Flagstaff M-827FLS weighs 4598 Pounds. I confirmed this from various places but here is one of such:
2002 Flagstaff Price, 2002 Flagstaff Values & 2002 Flagstaff Specs | NADAguides

Doing a bit of research into my tow vehicle a 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS Extended Sport Utility 4x4 4D I found out that the maximum trailer weight depended on my vehicles Axle Ratio. After doing a little more research I found that I could find this by looking in the glove box on the service parts identification sticker for a specific code, in my case it was GU6.

This meant my Axel Ratio is 3.42 and taking that into consideration I checked my owners manual but you can see on this online version here on page 4 section 55:
https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...zer_owners.pdf
that the 3.42 Axle Ratio means my vehicle supports a maximum of 4,800 pounds Max. Trailer Wt. and a Gross Combination Weight Rating of 10,000 pounds. The vehicle weighs 4,954 pounds making it a total weight of 9,754 pounds. (Adding the weight of each tire only adds about 100 pounds to the total.)

Even though I am within my tow capacity I opted for a Reese 49902 Complete Round Bar Weight Distribution Kit - 750 lbs. TW

which is within the 900 pound maximum trailer tongue weight recommended for such a system in my vehicles manual found on page 4 section 56. when I hauled it home (without an electric brake controller mind you). Although I didn't have a brake controller when I hauled my new travel trailer home on flat roads only a few miles with great weather, I did however purchase a Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Controller

to help with braking when I do finally take her on the road for adventure!

I am VERY open to suggestions as I have tried to really tackle being a new travel trailer owner properly with safety as my first priority.
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Tow Vehicle: 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS Extended Sport Utility 4x4 4D
Travel Trailer: 2002 Forest River Flagstaff M-827FLS
Electronic Brake Controller: Tekonsha 90195 P3
Weight Distribution Kit: Reese 49902 Complete Round Bar 750 lbs. TW
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:30 PM   #24
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Congratz on the new to you RV and welcome aboard.

The below is a copy and paste of useful information, and I usually recommend it to those just starting out. Some of it, you may already know, or may not be applicable to your particular RV. You will be able to filter out what pertains to your situation or not. I would suggest you read the electric threads and energy management first, and then the converter thread. This will help explain your different electrical systems of your RV, and how they operate...as well as what the converter does. The very first link will explain what operates off what system.

You can just peruse at your leisure as you get to know your RV:

Basic electric:

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

RV Electric

Your very important converter:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Installing a dedicated 30 amp RV outlet at home (Make sure you understand it's 120 volts ONLY):

How to wire a RV 30 amp outlet

12 volt DC:

12 Volt DC Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

Suburban water heater (if applicable to your RV):

Suburban's electric switch and much more

Suburban Water Heater Video Guides

Water Heater bypass/crossover valves:

NO (OR LUKEWARM) HOT WATER -Please read first

And the newest additions to help understand what constitutes a true full cylinder in refilling vs exchanging propane cylinders... as well as how the automatic propane changeover regulator works:

Propane Cylinders (Refilling vs Exchanging)

Propane automatic changeover regulator

Inverters and residential refrigerators in RV's:

http://rveducation101.com/articles/rvinverters.pdf

Bobby
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Old 03-21-2018, 08:39 PM   #25
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years wit

the BIG number is PAYLOAD CAP of your TV as your TW on a 5000# loaded trailer will be in excess of 600# which deducts from the payload cap of the Blazer... add kids, dogs, firewood, etc and you may find you are overweight on payload...

but the deed is done so now you have to PROBABLY purchase the additional wiring for the controller because it needs a 15 amp fused power circuit run from the battery to the tow ball and the new 7 pin receptacle that you may need to install at the rear bumper... check out etrailer again as they are excellent resource on what you need for brakes...

Most definitely you will need the controller to control the electric brakes on the TT... you will not be able to stop that TT on a rain slick road or a panic stop with Blazer brakes only... at least not in a good distance.

I would pull the wheels and inspect/repack the bearings and possibly look at replacing tires as the rule of thumb is TT tires are shot way before the tread looks bad and 5-6 years have gone by since purchase/mounting. Nothing worse then changing a tire on the road and probably fixing wheel well damage done by the blown tire.

Finally inspect the roof thoroughly... I would search out threads about using Eternabond tape to reseal all roof seems and protrusions thru the roof. That tape will last 10+ years without a hitch. Lap seal requires regular maintenance and reapplication.

Good luck, read old posts and take your time... but tackle the roof or keep it covered to make sure that enemy # 1 WATER is controlled on this trailer. You don't want to have to start pulling up damaged and soft flooring or deal with mold in the interiors of the walls... and this damage happens quick if there is a leak.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:09 PM   #26
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I pulled a 2104S with a Trail Blazer for a while. It weighed a few hundred pounds less than yours. A few things I can tell you....without looking it sounds like the weight numbers you've got are dry trailer weight and vehicle curb weight. Realistically, you're probably nearly 1000 lbs over weight. Just keep that in mind. Hitch and brakes look good, but I can also tell you from experience that those rear tires will NOT like that weight. Upgrade them to a stiffer tire or one that will handle more air pressure when towing. It'll ride much better. Also, if yours is like my 2008 was, even though it had the "tow package" with 7 pin and brake controller wiring, it lacked an external trans cooler. MUST HAVE. You'll do a number on that transmission if you don't because it will get pretty hot. It seemed to like around 60-62 mph cruising with overdrive locked out. Ran about 8 mpg and didn't like hills too much but pulled decently when set up correctly.
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Old 03-21-2018, 09:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
the BIG number is PAYLOAD CAP of your TV as your TW on a 5000# loaded trailer will be in excess of 600# which deducts from the payload cap of the Blazer... add kids, dogs, firewood, etc and you may find you are overweight on payload...
Quote:
Originally Posted by raspivey View Post
A few things I can tell you....without looking it sounds like the weight numbers you've got are dry trailer weight and vehicle curb weight.
I plan on ripping EVERYTHING out of the travel trailer and spending time renovating it to lighten its overall weight and give more room with less amenities before ever going on vacation. I love to renovate the things I own and add personal touches to everything and in this case I will keep lightening the overall payload cap in mind when renovating it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
you have to PROBABLY purchase the additional wiring for the controller because it needs a 15 amp fused power circuit run from the battery to the tow ball and the new 7 pin receptacle that you may need to install at the rear bumper... check out etrailer again as they are excellent resource on what you need for brakes...
I did check out etrailer and you are most definitely right that is a great resource, in fact it is where I took most of my suggestions when purchasing my hauling equipment. My tow vehicle does have a factory installed 7 pin receptacle at the hitch and a factory 15 amp fusible link with hook up wires under the dash that I will use when my electric break controller arrives on Friday!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
I would pull the wheels and inspect/repack the bearings and possibly look at replacing tires as the rule of thumb is TT tires are shot way before the tread looks bad and 5-6 years have gone by since purchase/mounting. Nothing worse then changing a tire on the road and probably fixing wheel well damage done by the blown tire.
I agree completely and one of the deciding factors before I purchased this travel trailer was that the previous owner had just put all new tires on it, yay!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
Finally inspect the roof thoroughly... I would search out threads about using Eternabond tape to reseal all roof seems and protrusions thru the roof. That tape will last 10+ years without a hitch. Lap seal requires regular maintenance and reapplication.
I will indeed dig into the roof asap to fix anything wrong, thank you for the material suggestions I will keep those in mind when purchasing new materials to fix any problems!



Quote:
Originally Posted by raspivey View Post
Hitch and brakes look good, but I can also tell you from experience that those rear tires will NOT like that weight. Upgrade them to a stiffer tire or one that will handle more air pressure when towing. It'll ride much better.
I purchased 4 all new aggressive tires for my tow vehicle about a week prior to purchasing this travel trailer so I'm all good on that front!

Quote:
Originally Posted by raspivey View Post
Also, if yours is like my 2008 was, even though it had the "tow package" with 7 pin and brake controller wiring, it lacked an external trans cooler. MUST HAVE. You'll do a number on that transmission if you don't because it will get pretty hot. It seemed to like around 60-62 mph cruising with overdrive locked out. Ran about 8 mpg and didn't like hills too much but pulled decently when set up correctly.
Do you remember how much an external trans cooler ran you when you purchased one? Also I don't plan on taking any routes that do not have a maximum speed of 50MPH, I'm not in a rush when I go on vacation so this speed suits my needs as it is the max recommended speed for hauling any kind of trailer in my tow vehicles manual.

Again thank you all for the suggestions I am so excited to post progress on this wonderful new project!
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Tow Vehicle: 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LS Extended Sport Utility 4x4 4D
Travel Trailer: 2002 Forest River Flagstaff M-827FLS
Electronic Brake Controller: Tekonsha 90195 P3
Weight Distribution Kit: Reese 49902 Complete Round Bar 750 lbs. TW
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyGuy View Post
Do you remember how much an external trans cooler ran you when you purchased one?
I'm wanting to say it came from etrailer as well...around $100 ish I think. Fairly easy to install. I seem to remember needing an adapter for the GM radiator, but it was only a few dollars.

Actually...I think it was this one.

https://www.etrailer.com/Transmissio...eid=2004747960
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Old 03-21-2018, 10:53 PM   #29
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TyGuy...
Quote:
I plan on ripping EVERYTHING out of the travel trailer and spending time renovating it to lighten its overall weight and give more room with less amenities before ever going on vacation. I love to renovate the things I own and add personal touches to everything and in this case I will keep lightening the overall payload cap in mind when renovating it!
Good luck with that... and I mean that nicely...

all trailer mfg is done with cheapness and weight as two of the most important factors. As a renovator you will want to put in better quality heavier wood with more screws then the original, to do it right instead of cheap and light... You will want better, thicker, heavier of everything. To accomplish your goal you may have a rolling dance floor (empty) in the trailer... but again I wish you the best of luck attaining your goal of lightening the load.
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Old 03-22-2018, 12:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
Congratz on the new to you RV and welcome aboard.

The below is a copy and paste of useful information, and I usually recommend it to those just starting out. Some of it, you may already know, or may not be applicable to your particular RV. You will be able to filter out what pertains to your situation or not. I would suggest you read the electric threads and energy management first, and then the converter thread. This will help explain your different electrical systems of your RV, and how they operate...as well as what the converter does. The very first link will explain what operates off what system.

You can just peruse at your leisure as you get to know your RV:

Basic electric:

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

RV Electric

Your very important converter:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Installing a dedicated 30 amp RV outlet at home (Make sure you understand it's 120 volts ONLY):

How to wire a RV 30 amp outlet

12 volt DC:

12 Volt DC Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

Suburban water heater (if applicable to your RV):

Suburban's electric switch and much more

Suburban Water Heater Video Guides

Water Heater bypass/crossover valves:

NO (OR LUKEWARM) HOT WATER -Please read first

And the newest additions to help understand what constitutes a true full cylinder in refilling vs exchanging propane cylinders... as well as how the automatic propane changeover regulator works:

Propane Cylinders (Refilling vs Exchanging)

Propane automatic changeover regulator

Inverters and residential refrigerators in RV's:

http://rveducation101.com/articles/rvinverters.pdf

Bobby
WOW, I think that is the MOST comprehensive answer to the request the OP could possibly receive!

GREAT STUFF!!

Remember, Search is your friend. Most questions you may have already have a thread explaining or answering it.

If you run across an issue not explained in one of the above links and cannot find it in a link don't hesitate to ask it on the forum. There are people on here with an encyclopedic knowledge of these things who will be more than happy to assist you!
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:22 AM   #31
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Hi. I just purchased the same model yesterday. Seemed to be in good shape for its age.
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Old 07-01-2018, 02:58 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by RetiredSoldier919 View Post
Hi. I just purchased the same model yesterday. Seemed to be in good shape for its age.
Welcome to FRF
You might want to put your RV's info in your profile so others know what you are talking about.

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and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
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4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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Old 07-02-2018, 10:03 AM   #33
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Welcome to FRF
You might want to put your RV's info in your profile so others know what you are talking about.

Sent from my SM-T377T using Forest River Forums mobile app
Will do. Thx.
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