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08-26-2021, 09:14 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Augusta
Posts: 202
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12 volt Air Conditioner
Has anyone installed or replaced their AC with something like this
https://www.campervan-hq.com/collect...ir-conditioner
If you have a good solar and battery setup this seems like it makes more sense than trying to use an inverter while off grid.
But it’s expensive.
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08-26-2021, 10:06 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,292
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Probably not very practical for off grid use with its 48A rating. The solar and battery capacity would not be practical for most RVs.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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08-26-2021, 01:45 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 103
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With a 600 amp/hour (useable) you probably could get a half day or so on batteries (Easily done with Lithium/LiFePO4 batteries).
48 Amps at 12 volts is 576 watts. 10 hours of constant use (eg it's hot enough to not turn off) would be 480 amp/hours. It wouldn't be too hard to have enough solar to run it during the day and charge batteries while running the AC of batteries at night. 1,000 watts of solar might keep up if it isn't so hot that the AC runs constantly. 1,500 watts may be realistic.
The non-solar option could allow one to run off batteries all night, charge with generator mid morning, then likely charge again in the evening and be set for the night. Sure would beat running the generator 24x7 while off grid.
If you had some solar, say 500 watts, it would almost run the AC with full sun reducing the amount of generator time to charge the batteries before/after bed time.
It's not cheap... but there are possibilities in it.
__________________
2015 Salem CSMT27RKSS
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08-26-2021, 04:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Augusta
Posts: 202
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I’m hoping the prices will come down over time. The DW says we don’t go off grid enough to justify the expense at this time. Especially since I need more batteries!
Wondering if or when manufacturers may start incorporating just like they have with 12V refrigerators.
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08-26-2021, 04:33 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammici
I’m hoping the prices will come down over time. The DW says we don’t go off grid enough to justify the expense at this time. Especially since I need more batteries!
Wondering if or when manufacturers may start incorporating just like they have with 12V refrigerators.
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Running a 12v only fridge is WAY different than running a 12v only a/c.
Power demands are not even close to each other.
Fridges are insulated and a/c's are not.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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08-26-2021, 04:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 733
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48 amps isn’t unreasonable in my opinion, as an inverter will pull 130 DC amps from the battery bank while running a 120-volt unit. I’d buy one if we were to decide to do more off-grid camping.
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08-27-2021, 02:45 PM
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#7
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AKA: 'tiredTeacher
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,045
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Uhhhh.. I'm just a dumb ol' retired school teacher so bear with me here. My TT came with a 13,000BTU A/C but we opted for the 15K upgrade. On a hot day, the A/C runs continuously to keep the trailer at 78°. This 12V puppy is 9800BTUs which means I'd need two, right? I mean, you guys don't sound as if you're discussing outfitting a Class B or did I miss something?
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Wright and Penny
(with Fitz and Lizzie, the camping kitties)
Richmond, Va.
2010 Tundra 4X4 5.7L V8
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows.
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08-28-2021, 09:48 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Augusta
Posts: 202
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If you had enough of a battery/solar system here is a 20k btu system by recpro.
https://www.recpro.com/recpro-12v-rv-air-conditioner/
I still can’t justify swapping without more batteries.
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08-28-2021, 11:06 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
Running a 12v only fridge is WAY different than running a 12v only a/c.
Power demands are not even close to each other.
Fridges are insulated and a/c's are not.
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How different? Being that the stock “juice pack” can’t even keep up with the 12v fridge, an upgrade isn’t optional.
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08-29-2021, 12:47 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElMostrito
How different? Being that the stock “juice pack” can’t even keep up with the 12v fridge, an upgrade isn’t optional.
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The OP was saying that RV manufacturers should install 12v air conditioners, like they are with 12v only fridges.
Air conditioners don't retain cold air and have no insulation like fridges do.
Totally different power demands. Imagine how much battery power a 12v air conditioner would use, in 100 degree temps all day.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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08-29-2021, 09:24 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
..
Totally different power demands. Imagine how much battery power a 12v air conditioner would use, in 100 degree temps all day.
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If your on shore power or generator, a 12v AC would run off the converter... so no real difference when in a campground / park.
The differnce is flexability. Say it's road trip day... you wants to catch some sleep at a rest area, or a night at a boondockers welcome sight that doesn't allow generators at night. With a 480 AH (usable, which isn't unrealistic) battery bank you could run the AC the OP posted on high non stop for around 9 to 10 hours. If it is cooler and doesn't run constantly you get even more time.
I find that flexability attractive. There have been many times I've paid $30 to $50 for one quick night stop when there are free (no generator) alternatives because it is hot and I want AC.
Entry price for the flexibility is a bit high, but I would love to have the option.
__________________
2015 Salem CSMT27RKSS
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06-16-2022, 07:17 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 35
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Would I have to remove the 110v cabling to old AC and where would I run the new 12v cable to in RV ?
2005 Dynaquest (compressor stopped kicking on).
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06-24-2022, 10:18 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 4,553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrollf
If your on shore power or generator, a 12v AC would run off the converter... so no real difference when in a campground / park.
The differnce is flexability. Say it's road trip day... you wants to catch some sleep at a rest area, or a night at a boondockers welcome sight that doesn't allow generators at night. With a 480 AH (usable, which isn't unrealistic) battery bank you could run the AC the OP posted on high non stop for around 9 to 10 hours. If it is cooler and doesn't run constantly you get even more time.
I find that flexability attractive. There have been many times I've paid $30 to $50 for one quick night stop when there are free (no generator) alternatives because it is hot and I want AC.
Entry price for the flexibility is a bit high, but I would love to have the option.
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Considering the distance from the converter to the compressor, it probably would be more efficient to boost the converter output to 48V and buy a corresponding compressor. The cable required would be much smaller.
__________________
TV: 2021 Ford F-150 4WD XLT Crew w/ 3.5L EB & HDPP, payload: 2,416#.
RV: 2020 Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S, Propride 3P hitch w/ 1400# spring bars
Camping nights: 2021, 52; 2022, 99; 2023, 88; 2024, TBD (Est: 80+)
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