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Old 04-28-2017, 12:48 PM   #1
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2306 - A couple electrical mods?

Couple things that I'm not sure where to put....

1) The 12V distribution panel. You'll notice there are a couple empty slots, one top and one bottom. Has anyone used these to add their own circuit? I also noticed that when I pull a fuse an LED lights up. Those must not be populated in the two empty circuits, as there is no light on. That's a nice feature, but not required.



2) this is the switch panel. I like that the switch illuminates, but that SOB is bright. Is there a better solution than this (below)? I could put an inline resistor, I suppose, but it'd be trial and error to get the right brightness.



3) I'm pondering adding tank heaters. We went on a trip (where it's warm, from MI) at the end of March. After that, it got pretty cold a couple times. I'm familiar with glue-on battery/tank heaters. I'm pondering if they should be 12V or 120V. 12V could run while driving, but it is unlikely to do any good with 60mph winds on the back side of the heater. I'm tempted to glue on 120V heaters and wire them to one cord somewhere. Then run a dedicated extension cord if they're ever needed. It's just an "oh crap, it's cold" and go plug it in. What size/wattage are the FR heaters? I'd add some tape to the drain plumbing too, as I feel that is the most at-risk.

Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:29 PM   #2
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I used one of the spaces for an extra 12v circuit. Was very easy.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:39 PM   #3
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Couple things that I'm not sure where to put....

1) The 12V distribution panel. You'll notice there are a couple empty slots, one top and one bottom. Has anyone used these to add their own circuit? I also noticed that when I pull a fuse an LED lights up. Those must not be populated in the two empty circuits, as there is no light on. That's a nice feature, but not required.Thanks.
I think you missed the point of that. If a fuse blows the light comes on. How nice is that! In my book that is required.
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:41 AM   #4
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I used one of the spaces for an extra 12v circuit. Was very easy.
Sweet!
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:42 AM   #5
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I think you missed the point of that. If a fuse blows the light comes on. How nice is that! In my book that is required.
I sure didn't miss that. It's nice, but not required for my additional circuit.
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Old 04-29-2017, 05:38 AM   #6
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With no load connected to the fuse position the LED will not illuminate with the fuse open or removed. Once a load is connected it will work as the others do.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:31 AM   #7
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With no load connected to the fuse position the LED will not illuminate with the fuse open or removed. Once a load is connected it will work as the others do.
Extra nice! Need to get those "cigarette lighter" sockets installed. Will be easy and well integrated. Love it.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:48 AM   #8
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I ran wiring to my sewer connection area, actually in the storage bin, for my macerator pump. There is a bus bar in back of the panel. Hardest part was pulling and replacing the 2 plastic sheets under the trailer.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:57 AM   #9
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On my old trailer, I used the 12V side to power my awning lights and switch. You also have room there for a couple extra breakers on the 120V side. I am seasonal and purchased an extra breaker to power up my shed.
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Old 04-29-2017, 12:17 PM   #10
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Some sort of dimmer for the light?
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:45 PM   #11
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Led Dimmer

I use a black marker. One coat, let it dry (seconds) if still too bright, keep adding coats! I think there is a market for a manufacturer (pen/marker) to make up something special for this!
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Old 04-29-2017, 11:12 PM   #12
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I use a piece of black electrical tape cut in the shape of the lighted portion and stick a pin hole through it prior to applying to the switch.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:55 AM   #13
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Both sound reasonable. I'll have to play with it. Dimmer would be cool, but I'd prefer a simple solution for this one. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:03 AM   #14
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Black fingernail polish should cover that light and you should still be able to see a little light coming out.
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:09 AM   #15
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Crossed my mind to cover the face and let light come out the sides. Good ideas for a silly problem.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:55 AM   #16
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My distribution panel happens to be on the end of the cabinet at the entry where I wanted a courtesy light. I added a fuse and wired the new light and switch to the new fuse. The lighted switches that shine in our eyes at night are the water pump and water heater, so turning them off is no big deal. The light on the refrigerator is the only one on at night now. After 2 years I'm getting used to it.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:05 AM   #17
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1) The 12V distribution panel. You'll notice there are a couple empty slots, one top and one bottom. Has anyone used these to add their own circuit? I also noticed that when I pull a fuse an LED lights up. Those must not be populated in the two empty circuits, as there is no light on. That's a nice feature, but not required.


quoting myself...haha.

Anyway, back to this. Where is a good place to grab ground? I took off the front face to look and maybe add a temporary 12v outlet. I see the ground and neutral bars for the AC side. I'd imagine I can tag on to that ground bar. It just seems like the internal stuff (mounted to "wood") must have a common place to get ground. I'm the type that runs a pair of conductors everywhere so that I don't have to worry about sketchy grounds.

On a separate, but related note. Does anyone know of a *small* inverter that DOESN'T HAVE A FAN? ALL I want to do with it is run the 24" tv. 100W or even less.

Finally, does anyone know of a wiring diagram for a 2306? I was mucking with the wires for the CO detector. Pretty sure when I re-connected them, I heard clicking in the breaker/converter box. So......there's a relay that cuts something out if it's not connected? Seemed weird. It was late so I didn't investigate.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #18
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quoting myself...haha.

Anyway, back to this. Where is a good place to grab ground? I took off the front face to look and maybe add a temporary 12v outlet. I see the ground and neutral bars for the AC side. I'd imagine I can tag on to that ground bar. It just seems like the internal stuff (mounted to "wood") must have a common place to get ground. I'm the type that runs a pair of conductors everywhere so that I don't have to worry about sketchy grounds.

On a separate, but related note. Does anyone know of a *small* inverter that DOESN'T HAVE A FAN? ALL I want to do with it is run the 24" tv. 100W or even less.

Finally, does anyone know of a wiring diagram for a 2306? I was mucking with the wires for the CO detector. Pretty sure when I re-connected them, I heard clicking in the breaker/converter box. So......there's a relay that cuts something out if it's not connected? Seemed weird. It was late so I didn't investigate.
Someone gave me this one as a gift.
It's from Wally World and doesn't have a fan as far as I can tell.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:15 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by aeblank View Post
Couple things that I'm not sure where to put....

1) The 12V distribution panel. You'll notice there are a couple empty slots, one top and one bottom. Has anyone used these to add their own circuit? I also noticed that when I pull a fuse an LED lights up. Those must not be populated in the two empty circuits, as there is no light on. That's a nice feature, but not required.



2) this is the switch panel. I like that the switch illuminates, but that SOB is bright. Is there a better solution than this (below)? I could put an inline resistor, I suppose, but it'd be trial and error to get the right brightness.



3) I'm pondering adding tank heaters. We went on a trip (where it's warm, from MI) at the end of March. After that, it got pretty cold a couple times. I'm familiar with glue-on battery/tank heaters. I'm pondering if they should be 12V or 120V. 12V could run while driving, but it is unlikely to do any good with 60mph winds on the back side of the heater. I'm tempted to glue on 120V heaters and wire them to one cord somewhere. Then run a dedicated extension cord if they're ever needed. It's just an "oh crap, it's cold" and go plug it in. What size/wattage are the FR heaters? I'd add some tape to the drain plumbing too, as I feel that is the most at-risk.

Thanks.

Why not pull the panel and swap out the switch with one you like. it's easy to do.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:42 AM   #20
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Why not pull the panel and swap out the switch with one you like. it's easy to do.
Probably could. Good point. Might be a trick to find one that lights up enough, but not too much. The Goldilocks of switch illumination.

I even have a piece of tape over the light on the fridge because it was bothering my son in the bunk. Go figure...
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