Add a USB Outlet

[Treybecky]

Anyone added a USB outlet next to a 110 V receptacle ? I would have to find the wire that has hot 12v and run it over to new USB receptacle. Anyone do this ? Maybe using a wire to lights, but where ?

It seems like a challenge to find the right wire to splice into, then mount a box in the back of nightstand (which is accessible thru the outside compartment if you remove the 1/8" divider wall) ... Im pretty sure the 110 outlet has no juice when shore power is off. I dont have an inverter. I want to charge phone on either side, when on 12V battery power only. (btw, I have 110V adapter for USB when on shore power, no help here).

Our G19FD Geopro has USB and CLA on the right side of Murphy bed, but only a 110v outlet on the other side. My solution is to run a 10' USB extension cord under bed/sofa to other leftside nightstand from one of the two USB outlets on right side.

Kind of hooky, but Forest River should have thought of having both on both sides.

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

Anyone added a USB outlet next to a 110 V receptacle ? I would have to find the wire that has hot 12v and run it over to new USB receptacle. Anyone do this ? Maybe using a wire to lights, but where ?

It seems like a challenge to find the right wire to splice into, then mount a box in the back of nightstand (which is accessible thru the outside compartment if you remove the 1/8" divider wall) ... Im pretty sure the 110 outlet has no juice when shore power is off. I dont have an inverter. I want to charge phone on either side, when on 12V battery power only. (btw, I have 110V adapter for USB when on shore power, no help here).

Our G19FD Geopro has USB and CLA on the right side of Murphy bed, but only a 110v outlet on the other side. My solution is to run a 10' USB extension cord under bed/sofa to other leftside nightstand from one of the two USB outlets on right side.

Kind of hooky, but Forest River should have thought of having both on both sides.

Keep in mind that USB is 5v DC. If you want to run it off of 12v DC you will need to either install a 12v receptacle (cigarette lighter socket) and use a "car charger", or try to find a USB receptacle that steps down from 12v to 5v.

I am pretty sure that all of the "wall socket" style USB ports that I have ever seen piggyback onto a 110v AC receptacle. I would never use one of those myself though because the transformer built in to them draws power 100% of the time - not just when charging a device. That's not for me.

Edit: I guess they exist, but I still don't think I want to install something that draws power all of the time so that I can use it some of the time.

https://www.amazon.com/SunnyTrip-Alu.../dp/B07GTZ89NH

[Treybecky]

Thanks for the advice, are you saying the "12V USB Outlet, SunnyTrip 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 USB Fast Charger Socket Power Outlet Adapter w/LED Digital Voltmeter" also pulls voltage all the time ? If it's parasitic, thats not much of any draw?

I think I understand you are saying the 110v plug in adapter to USB draws all the time. If that's right, it does not bother me since the only time my 110v outlets work is when Im on unlimited shore power. Is that right?

Im still struggling with finding the right wire to tie into the "SunnyTrip"; Im not the best with electrical, but Im sure if I look long enough, maybe I can find a wire that pulls 12V, not sure how to noodle that out, to find a 12v wire coming out of the battery looms to the back of trailer... last thing I want to do is wire something that starves power somewhere else...but it also would be nice to find something close to the front left compartment, ...or even just run a wire directly off the battery hot, and just run a ground to the frame? or do I have to use the battery negative post too? and put an inline fuse would be my last option.

[Rick the Rocket]

I used this setup and wired the switch to shut off the items when I'm not using them.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Sarahcat]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

Keep in mind that USB is 5v DC. If you want to run it off of 12v DC you will need to either install a 12v receptacle (cigarette lighter socket) and use a "car charger", or try to find a USB receptacle that steps down from 12v to 5v.

I am pretty sure that all of the "wall socket" style USB ports that I have ever seen piggyback onto a 110v AC receptacle. I would never use one of those myself though because the transformer built in to them draws power 100% of the time - not just when charging a device. That's not for me.

Edit: I guess they exist, but I still don't think I want to install something that draws power all of the time so that I can use it some of the time.

https://www.amazon.com/SunnyTrip-Alu.../dp/B07GTZ89NH

Actually, we installed this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's 4 USB connectors, each supplying 5 volts at 2.4 amperes or 12 watts each. It's input in 12 volts and it is the physical size of a standard AC outlet. We had a dual USB outlet in our TT and it died, but it was only 5 watts per USB, so we decided not to have it repaired in warranty and bought this much better device.

[dbledan]

I used this one...no power draw because no light and supports quick charging...Put one in my sons truck to replace the broken 12v lighter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QZZP2PT...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I ran 12v wiring up from the basement lighting to the cabinet on my side of the bed. You could do it inside the cap but its a lot harder.

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

Thanks for the advice, are you saying the "12V USB Outlet, SunnyTrip 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 USB Fast Charger Socket Power Outlet Adapter w/LED Digital Voltmeter" also pulls voltage all the time ? If it's parasitic, thats not much of any draw?

I think I understand you are saying the 110v plug in adapter to USB draws all the time. If that's right, it does not bother me since the only time my 110v outlets work is when Im on unlimited shore power. Is that right?

Im still struggling with finding the right wire to tie into the "SunnyTrip"; Im not the best with electrical, but Im sure if I look long enough, maybe I can find a wire that pulls 12V, not sure how to noodle that out, to find a 12v wire coming out of the battery looms to the back of trailer... last thing I want to do is wire something that starves power somewhere else...but it also would be nice to find something close to the front left compartment, ...or even just run a wire directly off the battery hot, and just run a ground to the frame? or do I have to use the battery negative post too? and put an inline fuse would be my last option.

Yes, that particular device has a display, which will draw power, but any outlet that does this same thing also has to have a transformer to step down the voltage from 12v to 5v. As long as the transformer is energized, it is drawing power (no electrical component is 100% efficient).

If I were thinking about putting one in, I would wire a switch in next to it so that I could turn it off when not actively charging.

To answer your other questions, you could run it directly off of your battery, but if you choose to do that you must absolutely have a fuse inline - and I would want that switch too, if it were me.

If I were running this directly from the battery, my circuit would look like this:

Battery + post > red wire > 5A inline fuse > red wire > switch in > switch out > red wire > charger outlet > black wire > frame

Ground to the frame is fine. Or the battery. Same result either way.


With regard to tapping into some other 12v line, you just want to be sure that the wiring and fuse can support the additional load. The socket that I linked is capable of supplying 3 amps at 5 volts to the USB port, so if my math is correct it would pull 1.25 amps on the 12 volt line when charging - call it 1.5A to account for inefficiency and safety margin. That's not a ton, but I don't think I would add it to my overhead lights, if I also had a MaxxAir fan on that circuit and a 10A Fuse.

[Captain Gene]

I would like to buy a dozen 12vdc to 5vdc transformers... I can use them to charge Uphoenes. They’ve doubled the Uphoenes range and data ratings.

Happy Glamping!

Gene.

[SailorSam20500]

A question. Are you looking to use the additional ports when boondocking? Or do you usually camp with shore power? If you are on shore power, have you considered replacing the 110 outlet with one that has built in USB ports? Those are available at most big box stores.

[Treybecky]

Thanks for all the good advice, appreciate any others if you have anything to add.

I think I found a switched one, but still looking for a reliable similar:
CHAFON Quick Charge 3.0 Dual:

https://www.amazon.com/CHAFON-Alumin...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I like the idea of wired direct to battery and ground to frame.

Thanks!

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

Thanks for all the good advice, appreciate any others if you have anything to add.

I think I found a switched one, but still looking for a reliable similar:
USB Socket 12V Outlet with Touch Switch, Dual 4.8A USB Car Charger

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Water...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I like the idea of wired direct to battery and ground to frame.

Thanks!

I would put an actual separate physical switch ahead of it. That one looks like it has a bubble switch (pressure switch). That means that the device has a circuit board that is powered up 100% of the time, waiting to see if anyone pushed the button.

My reason for wanting a switch was twofold - to eliminate any parasitic draw, and to electrically isolate the device from the battery to prevent an unattended internal short from potentially causing a catastrophic problem at the battery.

I would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5...switch&sr=8-21

[Treybecky]

How do I wire the on off switch into the system... Im not a electrician wiz, just put the positive wire in and out, then to the USB ? and run the ground directly from dual USB to frame?

[Rick the Rocket]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

How do I wire the on off switch into the system... Im not a electrician wiz, just put the positive wire in and out, then to the USB ? and run the ground directly from dual USB to frame?

yep, take the positive off an unused fuse 5 amp would be heavy enough for the usb only.

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

How do I wire the on off switch into the system... Im not a electrician wiz, just put the positive wire in and out, then to the USB ? and run the ground directly from dual USB to frame?

Yes, exactly. The type of switch that I linked only has 2 connectors on it. When the s.witch is on, there is an internal connection that links them together. When it's off there is not.

Or, put another way, when the switch is on, it behaves like a solid piece of wire. In the off position it's like you cut the wire.

The connectors don't have any polarity - you can connect either wire to either side of the switch.

Here's an example:

[richguess]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

Yes, that particular device has a display, which will draw power, but any outlet that does this same thing also has to have a transformer to step down the voltage from 12v to 5v. As long as the transformer is energized, it is drawing power (no electrical component is 100% efficient).

If I were thinking about putting one in, I would wire a switch in next to it so that I could turn it off when not actively charging.

To answer your other questions, you could run it directly off of your battery, but if you choose to do that you must absolutely have a fuse inline - and I would want that switch too, if it were me.

If I were running this directly from the battery, my circuit would look like this:

Battery + post > red wire > 5A inline fuse > red wire > switch in > switch out > red wire > charger outlet > black wire > frame

Ground to the frame is fine. Or the battery. Same result either way.


With regard to tapping into some other 12v line, you just want to be sure that the wiring and fuse can support the additional load. The socket that I linked is capable of supplying 3 amps at 5 volts to the USB port, so if my math is correct it would pull 1.25 amps on the 12 volt line when charging - call it 1.5A to account for inefficiency and safety margin. That's not a ton, but I don't think I would add it to my overhead lights, if I also had a MaxxAir fan on that circuit and a 10A Fuse.

An inelegant but simple solution is to get the 120v/usb combo plug that plug into your 120v receptacle. Then, just take it out when not using it if you’re worried about current draw. If your 120v receptacle isn’t powered up, that’s a different issue.

[LannyCox]

This is available at Walmart:


Product Image

Product TitleGREENCYCLE 4.2A USB Receptacle Outlet with Dual USB Charging Ports and 2 Tamper-Resistant AC Sockets (15A/125V/1875W), Wall Plate Included, UL listed, 2-Pack, White

Current Price$21.65 Sold & shipped by GREENCYCLE
Free delivery

[dahagen]

Originally Posted by LannyCox

This is available at Walmart:


Product Image

Product TitleGREENCYCLE 4.2A USB Receptacle Outlet with Dual USB Charging Ports and 2 Tamper-Resistant AC Sockets (15A/125V/1875W), Wall Plate Included, UL listed, 2-Pack, White

Current Price$21.65 Sold & shipped by GREENCYCLE
Free delivery

This is exactly what I did. Just replace the standard wall outlet, no extra wiring or parts needed.
Dave

[scottrubarb]

I recently added this unit to my Georgetown 270S Class A.
I purchased a small wooden box to mount the unit in and hang on the wall.
I liked this combination because it had two USB, a Volt meter, a standard "Lighter" outlet and most important an On/Off switch to prevent draining the battery when not in use.
Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fortunately I was able to mount close to the refrigerator wall and tap the 12V feed in the refrigerator compartment and route the two wires to the box through along side the wire feeds to the compartment next to the couch. I have only 4-6" of exposed wire from the counter top to the box. (I plan to cover that with the stick-on vinyl conduit used for lamp cords on wall lamps)

Greg Scott
California

Georgetown 270S
Toad: 2016 Jeep Cherokee Trial Hawk

[Jcrow9]

Originally Posted by Treybecky

Anyone added a USB outlet next to a 110 V receptacle ? I would have to find the wire that has hot 12v and run it over to new USB receptacle. Anyone do this ? Maybe using a wire to lights, but where ?

I bought these and installed them next to 12V lights, so it was easy to find the wire, and also replaced the ones that came with my FR trailer (because those were cheapies which quit working reliably within the first year).
I also drilled a mounting hole in the wall opposite the BR, so I could add charging capability in the living room area. The receptacle has two slots, and has an LED showing that the unit is hot (and also acts as a night light). Power usage when not charging is so slight--a couple milliamps--that it's not worth fiddling with a cutoff switch.

Apologies if the link doesn't map, first time trying a pic (and it won't let me upload a photo of my installation)

Jeff

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Captain Gene

I would like to buy a dozen 12vdc to 5vdc transformers... I can use them to charge Uphoenes. They’ve doubled the Uphoenes range and data ratings.

Happy Glamping!

Gene.

Those are called automotive adapters. Like these:.

This one gets you four-in-one in a nice wall mount. Three of those would get you to a dozen.