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Old 09-13-2014, 10:20 AM   #1
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Adding insulation.

Started on the basement storage area. Hope to finished this weekend. Going to do the front storage compartment too.

Wondering if adding insulation in the underbelly. Have read many opinions on this. I don't know if it is part of polar package. I know dual pane windows are.

If any have done this what are u thoughts and experience.

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Going to get different insulation to get in the hard spots.


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Old 09-17-2014, 07:50 AM   #2
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Doesn't look like many are interested in a very useful mod.... it is a lot of work, but work, I think will pay off in the long run.

Hi Arpipeliner. I've insulated my 29HFS Toy Hauler in the cargo area (under bed) tanks, water lines/pipes, and the entire floor, as well as sealing up holes better than the factory. I really should have bought the winter package (Extreme Pkg), but seldom get caught in cold weather. I know it makes a difference with heat as well, but I don't have data to back it the claim.

I really like Reflectix, but found an excellent insulation / sound proofing material at HD. Its the bottom link. I am also redoing a 66 Mustang and am in the process of covering surfaces under floor and truck (behind rear seat, etc) with it. It isn't 'itchy' like fiberglass, which is nice. The Frost King product doesn't stick to plastic (poly tanks) as well as I would have liked, but by cleaning the tanks well with a degreaser; it is better. Strange that the aluminum duct tape that sticks incredibly, doesn't stick to it either (Frost King)... tried degreaser, alcohol, lacquer thinner, even enamel reducer, no luck. It sticks incredibly to metal, such as it as designed to do, but I think it will stay on the tanks. I'm going to find a picture or two to attach.
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Shop Frost King 1-in x 12-in x 15-ft Plumbing Duct Insulation at Lowes.com

Shop Reflectix 25-ft x 48-in Double Reflective Insulation at Lowes.com

Radiant Barrier - Insulation - Building MaterialsÂ*at The Home Depot
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Old 09-17-2014, 08:01 AM   #3
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I've used Reflectix in my Corvette restoration for heat up thru the floor pans and road noise elimination. It has worked wonders. Now Wifey can ride along with her sandals off.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:15 AM   #4
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I did my 5ver last year with Reflectix. Did the storage areas......front storage....all inside the cabinets inside that butted against the outside walls. Also did all my storage doors.
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:21 PM   #5
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I got the basement done with 2" foam. The top except the driver side rung. Will use the reflectix to get around the plumbing on that side. Decided to do the back wall behind their cover that backs up to the sink on the 29 RE. Also the front wall that goes to the basement. Came down both sides where the door hinges to the very bottom. This seals off the open spots of the propane that needs to left open but stops the air flow into basement.

Going home this weekend and get my staple gun and probably tackle the rest next weekend. Still think of running a foam board in the ceiling of front compartment for extra measure and foiling the rest.

Thanks for the input and advise. Have to get busy before the cold gets here.


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Old 09-18-2014, 10:22 PM   #6
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I ordered more reflectix to make sun shades... window covers for all the windows... to block sun, or cold, or light. I'll try cutting precisely just 1/4" wider and higher for a force fit.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:32 PM   #7
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Finished basement and front compartment this weekend. Did the cabinet area around stove and frig in the slide.

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Basement. Sealed all the way down. The front compartment would be a pain to get to all the areas.

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Front compartment. Did the ceiling and seal off gaps in the area.

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Under frig.




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Old 10-06-2014, 01:33 PM   #8
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Under the stove and the cabinet beside it.


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Old 10-06-2014, 04:11 PM   #9
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I used the reflectix over the windows first on our previous RV and have cut more reflectix to go over the windows of our 8289 when we first got it. The unit cools down so much faster after a days travel in 100 + heat. I'll be doing the inside of the wardrobe and cabinets in our down time. May even pull the fridge and stove to get those areas, couldn't hurt.
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Old 10-06-2014, 07:59 PM   #10
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Good idea. I have a 2015 Rockwood 8289. If I just pulled the under belly and insulated under the camper I wonder if the foam would be the best choice. Lots to work around under there. My first thought was to replace the flex duct with insulated flex and fix the horrible wiring job. What the customer can't see FR did not spend much time on it.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpa001 View Post
What the customer can't see FR did not spend much time on it.
Amen brother!

I insulated cutting precisely, stapling and taping around all that stuff. If I had to do over, I would insulate the top side of the belly pan front to rear, side to side; I would still add the strips to the pan can be attached better. Still insulate the pipes and clean up the wiring. Beneath the toy garage, it is open and would have to done the hard way.

Follow up on cutting out the window covers. Cutting 1/4" over will make them too large. I actually ended up cutting most the actual sizes, but never under... not even a smidgen. Some have to go between the window and the screen, as well. I cut some slightly large and trimmed as I fitted them in.


With the larger the windows, the Refectix is reluctant it is to stay in place; so I plan to use lengths of stiff wire; to run across the window, and use mirror clips (those little clear plastic things for 1/4" mirror glass) screwed to the wall. The wire slips down into the gap the mirror mounts have; and being clear they are barely noticeable when the covers are down.

Can be used on ceiling vents too.

Here's a link to no particular site to show what I'm talking about.

Plastic Mirror Clip for 1/4" Mirror | Mirror Clips, Rosettes and Accessories
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:56 PM   #12
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Hey guys,

I realize this thread is a little dated but I was wondering how much cooling difference did insulating the under storage areas make. I have a Cherokee 274 TT and noticed that when I open the outer compartments, cool air rushes out. I'm looking to put 3/4" foam board in all the unfinished areas and then use luan to cover the foam for a smooth finish. I'm also looking at putting a gasket around the master bed frame access to the storage area as well.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:24 PM   #13
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I can tell the difference. If I ever get to work in the south I will put in the 2 AC. Easier to cool and heat. Less air flow less temperature change.


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Old 08-26-2016, 01:30 PM   #14
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I had to open up an area about 1' x 2' of the corroplast to work on my gate valves and a couple of other incidentals and noticed that some of the area beneath the corroplast was not insulated with fiberglass insulation. I'm wondering if they just got lazy and didn't insulate the whole area above where the corroplast is, or what the reason was. Any ideas? At any rate I plan on filling the space I've open up with some insulation. Thanks for your feedback!!
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Old 08-27-2016, 08:25 PM   #15
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mine had no insulation between floor and coro. I stapled / taped Reflectix and another type of thin insulation to the floor underneath but would like to replace coro with 2" foam board.
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Old 11-15-2016, 12:17 PM   #16
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Can this be right? Walls are hot!

Rockwood 8280WS - love everything except for insulation! Even in moderate temperatures (80 degrees), when the sun is hitting the sides of the 5er, the interior walls are hot/warm to the touch! Especially bad on top of the main slide, and in the bedroom.
We are trying to figure out how to add insulation without destroying the interior, as it is really unbearable. We live in Arizona and the sun shines all the time - not all parks have shade. This is our fourth RV and the only time this has been an issue.
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