Fed up with dinette table

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I have some 2-1/2" sq. x 1/8" wall stl tubing, I'll make you some legs that won't wobble. Would only increase your wt by about 75#.

Still trying to decide the best way (for us) to go. I may build one that can open outwards to a table that will actually seat 4-6 comfortably. That all aluminum table is still on the drawing boards.

[roadhound59]

I had the same problem with my 2601s...I called Roger at Forest River he told me to take it to the dealer and the dealer installed L- brackets no charge so far the table is stable no wobble.

[GASPEDDLER]

Originally Posted by roadhound59

I had the same problem with my 2601s...I called Roger at Forest River he told me to take it to the dealer and the dealer installed L- brackets no charge so far the table is stable no wobble.

Do you have any pics of that repair?

[kz08h5]

Here are the pictures of my table and frame. From what I have seen here and in another thread it appears there are some having issues with this frame. So far, mine is rock solid. We have not experienced the wobble others have complained of.

[iluvlcy]

My main issue was always banging my legs or stubbing a toe when getting out of dinette. That base takes alot of leg room.

[10x]

Originally Posted by kz08h5

I installed one of these:

V40 - SNAP 2 Folding Table Base - Price: $69.00 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611 W Bristol St, Elkhart, IN 46514 (800) 325-1461 (574) 262-3327

Just attach table top. Nothing to mount to RV. You can move it any where you want, even outside. Since it uses your original top it fits the dinette just fine. Our top is MDF and my wife couldn't raise or lower the table. Now she can.

Thats neat!

[10x]

Originally Posted by kz08h5

Here are the pictures of my table and frame. From what I have seen here and in another thread it appears there are some having issues with this frame. So far, mine is rock solid. We have not experienced the wobble others have complained of.

It can be mounted the opposite way too? My Dinette has a wrap around seat so the table long way is opposite of yours.

[maggiek]

As promised, I'm posting a review of how the "wiggley table" performed during our outing last week. As we were packing up to leave for the four days of relaxation we had our doubts that the "L" brackets were going to be the total solution. What we found was two fold. First, as most know, the floor in the Mini Lite is not the most structurally sturdy exercise in engineering. So, to reduce a floor induced shake I put a sheet of 3/4 plywood between the floor and the table frame. This, to my mind, would provide a stable base for the table experiment to go forward. Secondly, the "L" brackets certainly secured the bottom section and top sections to the respective parts, it didn't keep the two hinged bits from moving ever so slightly. That movement was the down fall of the whole deal.
The mod did in fact reduce the wiggle to a large extent, but you would still have the inevitable refreshment accident due to the remaining table instability. But all was not a waste of time, resources and effort. As with most discoveries, the accidental item is the one that gives the best results.
So, our accident happened when the table was being supported on the plywood "spacer" and pushed against the window frame. We noticed that the edge of the table rested on the lip of the window frame and thusly it provided a solid point for the table to rest. Now there was no wiggle and the afternoon refreshments were safe. All became good in the world because the wiggle was gone.
Now for those that have followed this, there will be several that will remember others that have made this "discovery". To them I ask, "How did you secure a ledge to the wall under the window?" Using a stud finder, I was hard pressed to find much to fasten anything to.

[Herk7769]

One day (if I get a large dose of initiative) I might pop that window out and using a stiff coat hangar wire to poke the Styrofoam, find the aluminum studs to mount a bracket.

[maggiek]

Originally Posted by herk7769

One day (if I get a large dose of initiative) I might pop that window out and using a stiff coat hangar wire to poke the Styrofoam, find the aluminum studs to mount a bracket.

Sounds like inventing too much work and the inevitable "now I have to fix the window, damn".
There has to be a contact at Forest River that can provide a structural diagram that shows the wall studding and wiring. Any chance someone might want to share that info?

[gastan]

My Mini Lite 2104 came with the snap 2 folding base and I hate it. It is very unstable and trying to fold it down is a study in frustration to me. Also, the frame makes it impossible to add under table drawers ... something the 2104 dearly needs.

My solution was to scrap the snap 2 and go back to a cone base and pedestal like I had on boats. I actually came to the forum to see if anyone had done that and to see if there were any tips about attaching the cone to the floor as I am ready to make the changeover. (I know the floor is on the puny side -- thickness-wise. I like the idea of mounting the cone base to plywood, as maggiek suggested. A large 3/4" or 1' thick base would spread the load very nicely and would be removable, too, if needed, without leaving 6 or 7 large holes in the floor. The plywood could be attached to the floor with several screws -- or maybe several large velcro strips -- to keep it from moving) I guess the project is in recess until I get the plywood and apply some matching tile to it )

Here is my solution. I will attach this box to the underside of the table with the 1/16" angles. The box is 3" high and the drawers all use full extension slides. Now I'll finally have space for silverware and cooking utensils plus odds & ends -- pencils/pens, paper, TV remote, etc.. If it isn't stable enough I guess I'll consider adding a french cleat to the wall under the window and anchoring the table with it, also.

[maggiek]

UPDATE
We're still looking for the perfect answer but the plan that seems to be coming together is as follows.
1. After consulting with the folks at Forest River, we now know how the wall (right side) and floor are made
2. We have added right angle brackets to the table framing which did help with the wiggle but still not the answer we are looking for, but better
3. The plywood that we added to the floor, which is removable, also helped to stabilize the table but again not the total result we are after
4. The last attempt at this elusive problem will be to secure the table to the wall using the following methods. We want to keep the ability to lower the table using the supplied base but make it "wiggle proof". So, armed with the factory diagrams of the floor and wall, we will mount a piece of 3/4 plywood about a foot wide and running from the wheel well cover to just under the window. This will be screwed to the horizontal support in the wall. We will then mount a piece of one by to the under side of the table, allowing for an overlap of the end of the table which will rest on the now mounted wall board. The table will be secured to the wall using window locks or those locks that hold table leaves together. The result should be the stability that we are looking for and also keep the standard table configuration. We will only be moving the table about 3/4 in away from the wall when folded for travel, not enough to fret over. Also the additional weight will be minimal, 2-3 lbs at best.
When we get this done we'll post the pics and dimensions for the pieces.
Hope this all makes sense.

[bradnailer]

Our trailer has the pole mounted table. At the risk of sounding like a toot, we don't have a problem with it. We've learned not to lean on it.

However comma if I were to do any modification to stabilize it, I would put a couple of set screws in each connection, thus suring it up.

[maggiek]

The "snap2" table support/legs as used in the Mini-Lite, is an impossible design if one wants to keep their wine in the glass during a meal ( assuming the plan is to having it staying in the glass up until it is consumed and not distributed about the plates because someone bumped into or leaned on the table). What we are trying to do is provide an enhancement that keeps the functionality of the Snap2 design but the stability that the design lacks in this application. Lots of folks are trying various designs that have already been used in units, both older ones to some new ones. Because of how the Mini-Life's floor is designed, most of the "post" systems are doomed from the get go. Also the walls are not the most robust because they are not of traditional construction, therefore it is hard to find a solid area to attach anything that can support any load thus making the "swing-down" designs difficult to use.
We have been incorporating ideas and modifications that others have tried. Each in themselves have had some modest success but not the result that we are looking for. So the design that we tried to describe in today's earlier post will likely be our last shot at this petty inconvenience. We thank those that are following this and appreciate all the inputs. If we are successful we will certainly share the result.

[maggiek]

Meant to include these diagrams from Roger Beiler, Warranty Administrator, Forest River, Flagstaff etal. These are a real eye opener to anyone expecting traditional construction in a modern TT.

[EXGMTech]

I found a way to find framework by total accident....go out on a cool dewy morning and look at the outside skin....perfect outline of the structure in dew.

[DKirk]

The previous owner of our 2304 removed the Snap 2 legs and replaced them with 2 pedestals from Camping World. They attempted to screw them to the floor but most of the screws were loose. However the table was still fairly sturdy due to the rest of the mod. They took a piece of wood approx. 1 x 4 and just shorter that the width of the table. They attached it to the underside of the window end of the table using L brackets. Then they attached industrial strength Velcro to the wood and stuck it to the wall below the window.
Although there was a bit of wiggle due to the bases not screwing tight to the floor, that table was not going anywhere. Apparently they had no plans to ever use it as a bed and probably didn't drop it for travel.

We didn't even know what the Snap 2 table legs were, neither did our dealer, but they gave them to us with the TT. I finally figured out that it was the original table base after DH wrestled the table off the wall and I saw a photo on the forum of a table,

We're back to the original configuration but the table wobble gets on my nerves, It's not so bad that we spill drinks.
I'd love to put the board back on just for stability, but it's too much work pulling the velcro free so the table could be dropped for travel or sleep.

The velcro is still on the wall as we didn't want to damage the surface removing it, It's hidden below the table so no one see it anyway. My DH filled all the holes in the floor from the pedestal mounts with clear silicone.

Just posting this in case it gives anyone ideas on fixing theirs.

[maggiek]

To those that want to put screws in the floors of their Rockwood/Flagstaff Mini-Lites to mount anything, check out my pic's in #35. These diagrams are from Forest River and sure "explain" why anything mounted to the floor, other than original build, will be doomed. Luan and foam don't hold much and if you think it will and you do, the warm feeling of success will last until the back patting is done and first after job beer is gone.
We intend to do something permanent over the off season and will post the results along with pic's. Seasons nearly done up here and we are getting out for our last go before the "Long Sleep" till spring. Enjoy the long weekend everyone.

[DKirk]

Originally Posted by maggiek

Meant to include these diagrams from Roger Beiler, Warranty Administrator, Forest River, Flagstaff etal. These are a real eye opener to anyone expecting traditional construction in a modern TT.

Maggiek,

Thanks for the diagrams. Is your Rocky a 2011 model? Wasn't sure if the diagram applied to that year or other years. Mine is a 2011 built near the end of 2010.

Not sure I understand the framing shown on the side view, but DH can probably figure it out.
We've had trouble with the jackknife sofa pulling loose from the floor too. The mechanism is a bit stiff making it hard to lift, so more pull puts more pressure on the floor bolts and one was pulled loose. DH has worked on it a lot and I think he has fixed it using some suggestions found on this site.

[maggiek]

[QUOTE=DKirk;453387]Maggiek,

Thanks for the diagrams. Is your Rocky a 2011 model? Wasn't sure if the diagram applied to that year or other years. Mine is a 2011 built near the end of 2010./QUOTE]

DKirk
Yes, ours is a 2011 2304. We bought it new and other than a few issues with less that stellar construction/quality control there have been few problems. Yes there was a water leak from the shower taps, the linen closet shelves that collapsed after a hard bump in the road and sewer discharge lines being really close to the ground but the only "real" test of our patience has been the table and that will be resolved over the off season as previously mentioned.
We enjoy this unit for its compact floor plan and the fact that it is a 24' that behaves like 30' because of the "Murphy Bed". This in our mind is as near to the perfect couples tt as it gets for those that aren't full timers or seasonal. It tows easily with a 1/2 ton with a light gear and can be parked in some of the nicer sites rather than in the open fields like the bigger 5ers etc. No offense to those fine folks, just what we prefer. Once you get the growing pains behind you, you will like the Mini. Get out and enjoy these great counties of ours and have fun.